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Andrew Reid

Panasonic G6 Review - the GH2 Redux

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Still wrong 

 

You are still entitled to your opinion.  ;)

 

 

 

 Sometimes "wrong" , just like you learned in math class, is simply what it is.

 

Unfortunately this particular subthread regarding one's personal preferences for filter usage has nothing to do with math or classes, although it does seem to have something to do with binaries. That is, with a binary (I/O, on-off, either-or) way of thinking. 

 

In real life, however, there are often more than one way to reach a certain end result, and whatever style you prefer, or whichever method you consider to be the only right(eous) way to get there is up to you. It's all perfectly fine with me. Like I said above, not much point in bickering about matters of taste and our personal preferences.

Now that we've all established yours, I hope we can just move on towards new endeavours. Along with the new year.

 

Happy New Year!  :)

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EOSHD Pro Color for Sony cameras EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs

there are some mega deals on ebay UK right now for G6's as low as £250 !! these are bodies that have been bought on Amazon with the 14-140mm lens - the seller then removes the lens from the kit and sells on the body cheap - as new!

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313.TR5.TRC1.A0.Xpanasonic+g6&_nkw=panasonic+g6&_sacat=0&_from=R40

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If shooting a B&w project on a camera like the G6 I would always set the picture profile to monochrome and 'bake in' the look. The compression codec doesn't need to concern itself with colour detail, so as a result you often end up with nicer IQ out of the camera.

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I'm expecting my new G6 and metabones Speedbooster soon. I'd like to buy the Nikkor 50mm / f1.8 lens, but I'm not sure if I should buy the D or G version?

 

It seems the D-version has it's own aperture-ring, whereas the G is automatic, but can be manually controlled by the speedbooster; however it's not entirely accurate: http://www.slrlounge.com/near-full-frame-in-a-micro-43-camera-the-metabones-speedbooster-nikon-adapter-review

 

The bokeh and sharpness of the G is better and since you'll be focussing more than changing the aperture, the larger focus ring of the G might be better. The price difference is only 50€.

 

Any advice?

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I'd really consider AI-s glass. It's has much better construction than AF-D, the focus ring is superb for video and you can buy a lot of it cheap used. There are a few different versions (3) of the AI-s 50mm f1.8. The first is metal construction, the other two are lighter and very small. All can be found on ebay for around $100 and they're just as good as the AF-D's, if not better.

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I have always been annoyed by the skin tones coming out of the GH3 and now the G6.

 

Last week I made a discovery, while trying a cheap but fun app called camerabag (photo editing software) with various stills from video shot with GH3 I found out that the skin issue could be resolved by adjusting the red hue brightness. This adjustment also made the reds from GH3 look more natural and life like. (light reds are no more pinkish, oranges and no more yellow) I then tried to replicate the adjustment in FCPX, motion, after effect, speed grade, resolve... and it was just not possible. Weird.

 

Yesterday I found a way of creating a .cube file's LUT from the settings of camerabag and the results are amazing. With this LUT applied the red color of GH3 and G6 video looks a lot like 5D markIII and Blackmagic cameras.

 

Here is the LUT applied on a graded still from video of G6 

bu4s.jpg
bbyd.jpg

 

 

This sounds interesting! Could you provide more details please?

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