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Fuji XT3 + Atomos Ninja V


MrSMW
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Going back to the original topic - I am having the same issue with my X-T3 and new Ninja V. I can not get it to do 4k 60 no matter which settings I change. The only thing I can possibly attribute it to is that maybe I'm not use the Atmos cable... but I've tried two different HDMI cables. Even if it wasn't that cable, wouldn't it still give me a 4k60 signal and just record blips or stutters? Anyone else have a similar issue that fixed it. This was new out of the box today...

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OK, slept on it and decided it's either going back because I can't get it to work, or possibly just going on eBay along with the SSD and docking port.

It's not just the issue I have had getting it to work, - that is more a case of 'the straw that broke the camel's back', but the battery chewing issue and other minor niggles that all add up to, "is it worth it to me?" and the answer on balance is not.

I think it's a superb bit of kit, build is exceptional etc, but not all things work for all people.

Hey ho, I tried!

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13 hours ago, steeped-prod said:

Going back to the original topic - I am having the same issue with my X-T3 and new Ninja V. I can not get it to do 4k 60 no matter which settings I change. The only thing I can possibly attribute it to is that maybe I'm not use the Atmos cable... but I've tried two different HDMI cables. Even if it wasn't that cable, wouldn't it still give me a 4k60 signal and just record blips or stutters? Anyone else have a similar issue that fixed it. This was new out of the box today...

This cable works: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00C9JRV7A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And so does this one: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00YOFRK78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Because I have both and tested them and can get 4K60 to the Ninja.

I just couldn't get dual record to work no matter what and that is a deal breaker for me.

Unfortunately, because I had the cable issue myself initially and then damaged the USB port and had to send the camera to Fujifilm UK for repair, the Ninja and SSD are both past the 30 day return period so it's a visit to Mr E. Bay this weekend ☹️

I'd ideally keep them in case a fix comes up some time, but it's 1k kicking around and devaluing so I won't.

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1 hour ago, MrSMW said:

This cable works: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00C9JRV7A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And so does this one: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00YOFRK78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Because I have both and tested them and can get 4K60 to the Ninja.

I just couldn't get dual record to work no matter what and that is a deal breaker for me.

Unfortunately, because I had the cable issue myself initially and then damaged the USB port and had to send the camera to Fujifilm UK for repair, the Ninja and SSD are both past the 30 day return period so it's a visit to Mr E. Bay this weekend ☹️

I'd ideally keep them in case a fix comes up some time, but it's 1k kicking around and devaluing so I won't.

Yeah, I have only been able to get it to work in 1 setting. I think when I have SD set to film profile and HDMI set to F-Log. But maybe that will change with a different HDMI.

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21 hours ago, MrSMW said:

I just couldn't get dual record to work no matter what and that is a deal breaker for me.

Not to belittle or anything, but are you sure you are tapping the screen in the right spot? I kept tapping in the wrong spot. You tap under where it says Trigger. (None/TimeCode/HDMI should cycle through) It took me a second to figure this out.

Everything is now working on my Ninja V and X-T3.

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On 3/23/2019 at 1:29 PM, steeped-prod said:

Not to belittle or anything, but are you sure you are tapping the screen in the right spot? I kept tapping in the wrong spot. You tap under where it says Trigger. (None/TimeCode/HDMI should cycle through) It took me a second to figure this out.

Everything is now working on my Ninja V and X-T3.

Not at all.

I could set it every single time but it reset itself immediately after!

I tried every combination of settings multiple times.

It’s on eBay now and I’ve moved on. Or rather back to my Feelworld monitor and SD cards.

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  • 6 months later...

I have XT3 and ninja V. Every mode works normally as long as it is 29.97 or under. Over that frame rate, Ninja will ONLY record if Fuji is set to HDMI OUTPUT DISPLAY ON. Then it records 59.94P perfectly. Which is of course useless unless you're doing a tutorial or something. Any clues? I thought it was the cable but now I'm thinking it's the Fuji. Something off about the output at that frame rate that is only corrected by having the display over HDMI turned on. It's possible that a better cable might make a difference, although I'm using an HDMI 4k 60 rated one. Any guesses or experience with this wrinkle?

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  • 7 months later...

I just had the same problem: the Ninja V recorded 59.94p when the fuji xt3 was set to 4k50p.

The problem was that the dial was not on video mode (but on BKT) .... when I switched it to video it worked as expected again: recording at 4k 50p ....

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  • 4 months later...
  • 5 months later...

Big time resurrection here., just want to be respectful and not start another thread.

I can only assume in the last 24 months, these issues are now non-issues with HDMI cables and formats. 

Is there a "BUY THIS HDMI CABLE FOR ZERO ISSUES" link anyone has? Zero mood to mess around with any of this, so I will just buy the correct one the first time around.

Same goes for SSD's. The ATOMX seems like the obvious choice , but that extremely vague Atomos chart mentions the WD blue models, which I have wholesale cost access too, so I could get them for nothing. 

I have too many of the big boy NPF batteries and charging docks, so I am set there. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, DanielVranic said:

Big time resurrection here., just want to be respectful and not start another thread.

I can only assume in the last 24 months, these issues are now non-issues with HDMI cables and formats. 

Is there a "BUY THIS HDMI CABLE FOR ZERO ISSUES" link anyone has? Zero mood to mess around with any of this, so I will just buy the correct one the first time around.

Same goes for SSD's. The ATOMX seems like the obvious choice , but that extremely vague Atomos chart mentions the WD blue models, which I have wholesale cost access too, so I could get them for nothing. 

I have too many of the big boy NPF batteries and charging docks, so I am set there. 

 

 

I can 100 percent recommend these Lindy cables through Amazon. I use two of them at present on my T3 and T4. I also have a UGREEN high speed cable that works. Here's the absolute MUST for using micro HDMI cables, in case you don't already know. You've got to use a cable clamp or you WILL break your cables, and fast. That means you've got to get a cage for the T3 if you don't already have one. And when you're buying the HDMI cable, buy at least two. You'll definitely want a spare in your bag in case something happens on set.

I haven't used a clamp on the full size side of the HDMI cable until just this week, when I picked up a Nitze monitor cage/sun hood/monitor mount combo (for about the same price as the Atomos branded sun hood alone). I find the full size connection to be much more robust and harder to disengage, but it never hurts to clamp it. There are cable clamps available that aren't a full cage and bolt right to the Atomos. 

As for SSDs, save yourself some cash (maybe to pay for a cage) and go with the WD Blue. I currently have two 1TB WD Blue SSDs, one for each camera. I've used them for more than a year, hours and hours of record time, and they work flawlessly. Yes, they stick out a bit from the monitor, but that's not an issue at all.

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19 hours ago, EphraimP said:

I can 100 percent recommend these Lindy cables through Amazon. I use two of them at present on my T3 and T4. I also have a UGREEN high speed cable that works. Here's the absolute MUST for using micro HDMI cables, in case you don't already know. You've got to use a cable clamp or you WILL break your cables, and fast. That means you've got to get a cage for the T3 if you don't already have one. And when you're buying the HDMI cable, buy at least two. You'll definitely want a spare in your bag in case something happens on set.

I haven't used a clamp on the full size side of the HDMI cable until just this week, when I picked up a Nitze monitor cage/sun hood/monitor mount combo (for about the same price as the Atomos branded sun hood alone). I find the full size connection to be much more robust and harder to disengage, but it never hurts to clamp it. There are cable clamps available that aren't a full cage and bolt right to the Atomos. 

As for SSDs, save yourself some cash (maybe to pay for a cage) and go with the WD Blue. I currently have two 1TB WD Blue SSDs, one for each camera. I've used them for more than a year, hours and hours of record time, and they work flawlessly. Yes, they stick out a bit from the monitor, but that's not an issue at all.

So I am seeing a few different versions of those WD Blue SSD's. Atomos's chart just says "Blue" so I do not wanna mess that up. Does it require anything else or can it just be added on?

B&H sells that kit with the SSD's and batteries and seems like an OK deal at 899.

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The WD Blue drive I use is on sale on Amazon right now. You need to install it in a Master Caddy, which is a plastic box that slides into the back of the monitor. Each Ninja comes with one caddy, so you shouldn't need to buy one. 

You said you have lots of Sony batteries, so $599.900 for the Ninja and $115.98 for the SSD plus cable, you're at $714.98, almost $200 below that package price. Plus, you may be able to get the WD even more cheaply due to your wholesale connection. If you did need batteries, you could by two of the Powerextra batteries I linked before and get more power than the package batteries, plus the ability to power accessories or the camera, for a little more than $50.

You'll still save about $140 over that kit, if I'm correct. Those Anglebird SSDs are a rip off, as far as I know. Way overpriced.

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