steeped-prod

I am in the same boat Chadandreo. I have 3 Fuji X-T3's, but only 1 ninja v. My Ninja V is on my main rig so I can record the highest quality, but on a wedding day we are shooting multiple cameras and we are just shooting 10 bit 4k 60 the whole day. We make proxies and then edit on those and then flip back to H265 for the export. If I am doing a project with less footage, like I am editing a corporate story right now where the interview portion was shot on a ninja v 422 24 10 bit and the B-roll was all internal 4k 60 10 bit. All of this I am editing natively on a timeline with no transcoding. I have to wait for renders but it still plays back pretty smoothly. I am on a 2015 MacBook Pro on the new version of FCPX though...

Smoother focus for auto-focus. In my many experiments it also tends to be less jumpy, hold focus better and transition between objects better and more naturally.

It isn't video friendly to me without a Linear Motor. I know manual focus is preferred by many (and yes, I often use manual focus), but I love auto focus when I am running and gunning and especially on a gimbal and nothing can beat the Linear Motor autofocus of the 16-55. Yes, the flicker in the zoom is annoying, but I am never performing an action where I need to zoom while recording and keep the zoom motion in the recording - rather I pick the focal length I want and then record. I would still prefer the 16-55.

I have noticed the main battery does lose charge slowly. I have never had it go all the way down though. I’ve never had the camera on longer than a couple hours straight though. My assumption is that there is still a trickle effect that pulls some charge from the main battery. If you ever shut off for some ugh between shots it negates the effect as the battery recharges off the power bank. I haven’t tested extensively though with how long it takes though.

I have a handle that comes out of the side of the Ronin s like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Acouto-Lightweight-Stabilizer-Extension-Ronin-S/dp/B07JB7H5XY/ref=sr_1_40?keywords=ronin+s+handle&qid=1571270768&sr=8-40 It gives me a flat surface on top that I just put a piece of velcro tape on and then velcro tape on the battery. I use the smaller anker battery which sits there perfectly and gives me about 4-5 hours. I will go through two obviously on a full day shoot, but never have any issues with it being awkward or falling it off, works really well.

I just velcro a USB C PD battery pack to mine. Then I don’t have to worry about anything and isn’t really much of an inconvenience to me. I would worried on those 10-12 hour filming days that I would draw too much power from my ronin-s anyway. I love that I never have to worry about taking a second battery for my ronin s as long as it is fully charged before we film.

Make sure you have 4k movie output selected to 4k over HDMI and make sure you have HDMI Output Into Display set to "Off" if you are trying to record. Then just set your camera to 4k 59.9 and it should sync up with Ninja.

If you guys are shooting 10-bit do you typically use 200? 400 will not be an option for how much footage I have to film, but I was considering 100 to save even more space. I did some quick tests and 100 vs 200 wasn't very noticeably... but I'm guessing it would show up more in the motion... If it is mostly 4k 60 slowed down to 24 footage, what would you guys recommend?

This lens looks gorgeous except for the f/4. I think I shoot too much indoors to make it work.

Would be great news if you do more than capture an image and trigger autofocus. Can't even start and stop recording.

Not to belittle or anything, but are you sure you are tapping the screen in the right spot? I kept tapping in the wrong spot. You tap under where it says Trigger. (None/TimeCode/HDMI should cycle through) It took me a second to figure this out. Everything is now working on my Ninja V and X-T3.

Yeah, I have only been able to get it to work in 1 setting. I think when I have SD set to film profile and HDMI set to F-Log. But maybe that will change with a different HDMI.

Going back to the original topic - I am having the same issue with my X-T3 and new Ninja V. I can not get it to do 4k 60 no matter which settings I change. The only thing I can possibly attribute it to is that maybe I'm not use the Atmos cable... but I've tried two different HDMI cables. Even if it wasn't that cable, wouldn't it still give me a 4k60 signal and just record blips or stutters? Anyone else have a similar issue that fixed it. This was new out of the box today...