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BIG NEWS - Hands on with CONTINUOUS raw recording on Canon 5D Mark III

Andrew Reid

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Q: Would it be possible to simultaneously record externally to a Ninja 2/Odyssey 7/Hyperdeck?

A fantastic setup would be to record ProRes (easier post workflow, +audio, and playback) to external, but also have a RAW "backup". Edit on ProRes, then replace the footage with graded RAW/DNG.

Who's with me on this?

Not tried HDMI yet whilst recording raw but will tonight. Seems like a doable option.
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EOSHD Pro Color 5 for Sony cameras EOSHD Z LOG for Nikon CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs

But you can't mount the glass :(


Certainly not, it's just for the sensor size...


love the way the Epic lets you crop in more and go up in speed as you do. It's such a time saver! 


I'd like that option oin an SLR: get maximum use of may favorite lenses by making crops! ;)

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What 16 mm and 8mm glass are you going to use with an EF mount?


Any 16mm lens you can mount on it!!! C-Mount, PL-Mount...


Menu structure would be -> Sensor area (135 Full Frame, Super 35, Standard 35, Super 16, 16mm, Super 8, 8mm


Too many choices might be intimidating, Full Frame, S35, S16 and maybe S8 would be more than enough.

Maybe they could make each of the crop sizes slightly smaller to accommodate for most lenses' coverage.

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The problem with the Panasonics is SD media.  The ML hack needs the throughput that fast CF media allows.


SD allows fast speeds as well, but it depends on the controller used in the camera. The SD controller in the 5D3 sucks, because even with 95mb/s write/read speed cards you get bad speeds.

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I think Andrew is right about this eating into BlackMagic sales. I got the Pocket Camera pre-ordered, but I am rethinking that. A 5D Mark III is out of reach for me, still out of budget. But if a stable release of this firmware makes it onto the 5D Mark II or 6D, I'm probably cancelling my Pocket.


Getting cheap glass for fullframe is actually easier than for the pocket. Want a 28/24mm wide angle? Just buy a cheap manual one.. A bright standard lens? Any 50mm f/1.4 will do. etc. Also I wouldn't have to buy the Speed Booster any more, so thats another $400/600.


Might get a Panasonic G6 next to it, in case I don't want to deal with raw files, but I might even rethink that... and the 5D II / 6D are better still cams than the Pocket or the G6...


Actually, I might just start calculating what selling my GH2, old 5D Mark I, canceling the BMPCC and forgetting about the Pana G6 might mean for the budget.. and a 5D3 is probably in reach.


Magic Lantern should start selling camera badges. I don't want to buy a Canon... with their overpriced old tech. All the reason I want one now is because of ML.



http://***URL not allowed***/news/?p=17976


Mark III RAW vs. BlackMagic RAW


Canon looks better... :blink: no moire.

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Does anyone know anything about or have any experience with Ryther Camera?

Mark III is offered at $2400 with free shipping.

I've always preferred Amazon, but the savings on this site is interesting. Too good to be true?


They are all over Rip-Off report like a pedophile at recess. Don't do it.
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I think that a way to put this in test is just compare the amount of noise of a 1920x1280 fullframe raw with a 1920x1280 1:1 raw. Can anyone do this?

Just look at the SNR of the 5D2 vs the 5D3 (nearly 2 stops better, because it is not line the skipping, the 5D3 sensor is only maybe 2/3rd of a stop better for SNR at best) and the difference in moire/aliasing. No way the 5D3 is skipping that much. They are probably doing a 3x3 bin style (C300 stuff does 2x2 bin style).

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Canon sensor even in RAW Still mode only has 11.7 EV of dynamic range at only ISO 100 (it's less at higher ISOs)., 




11.7 is the best case in still mode. In video mode  even in RAW it's most likely going to be lower than 11.7


Black Magic Cinerama camera will easily beat it ... 


5D3 has worse than 11.7 EV at 1:1 level but when at normalized to 8MP it rises and normalized to 2MP it would really rise (if the info was used well and not tossed).

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This was on my 5DII.... if that isn't enough DR, i don't know what is. (That is very bright cloud on the way up a mountain, it would ruin the shadows in h264... The tree stumps would be almost black).



A foggy day. Try it with sun beams shooting through the forest. Then you'd wish for the extra nearly three stops at ISO100 of the Exmor sensors. Sure your scene has a decent DR range but it's not crazy high. I should also say that anything downscaled to like 1/8th of a MP look good too.

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So it's basically safety: if you get it really wrong with an even higher dynamic range sensor and have to push four stops, the Nikon is better.


I suppose it's best not to get it four stops wrong!

It sure is nice when you have a one of chance and something goes wrong or you don't have time to change settings before the scenario is over. Also you are missing the point, what if the scene has more than 10 stops of DR that you wan't to capture? It doesn't matter how carefully your expose, it won't work out.

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I'm happy with my D800, but I really wish there'd be some hardcore developers hacking on the Nikon's like Magic Lantern :) The Nikon hacker forum seems quite idle...



I suspect it won't be possible. Nikon I believe is much harder to hack. The liveview feed on the D800 is awful, choppy and aliased so I'm not sure it's possible to do this trick with the D800. Someone said the Exmor chips might become too hot if read smoothly at 24fps (???).

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