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Andrew Reid

Nikon V1 - shooting 4K 60fps raw for $200

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Leang has now been banned for months of unpleasantness. I've had enough of it.

 

If a contribution isn't good for the atmosphere of the forum then it is no longer welcome in my view.

 

Andrew,

 

I don't like bans, actually, I've supported you many times on dvxuser when you were attacked there by a few of the same people in the past. And I guess you've responded in the best way to become eoshd.com in one of the most interesting sources available online for affordable motion picture acquisition. But the fact is: what the hell wants who can disagree with such unique place where it is possible to find 4K RAW moving image capture for 200 bucks?! *Sigh*

 

A shot is not measured in seconds, minutes or hours but in what we can do in such units of time from a fps standard, whatever length we have in hands. Just it. There are A-cameras, B-cameras etc, choose what your skills fit best, if any. Be quiet if nothing you have to add. You did it in the right way. This thread is already a milestone per se. I, for example, am used to come here in a regular basis. Stick it!

 

Kudos for your attitude regarding the dream of Coppola we all should share, if the art is actually the sake of it

(not any troll in disguise whoever he/she is :P)

 

Emanuel :-)

 

 

PS -- I can't wait to expect and probably buy V3 Nikon Series 1.

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EOSHD Pro Color for Sony cameras EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs

And here is another example of the merits of the outcome developed by the participants here, whether natively based on the purpose sui generis of this thread or not:

I bought myself a new V1 based on this this thread. After a few days I decided to keep it, not for its 4K raw capability, which is too limiting to be practical in my mind, but for its burst shooting capability as a street camera. At 10fps, I can keep shooting stills for 3.4 seconds, long enough to capture an interesting scene, and fast enough not to miss the critical moment. I shot 1800 pictures in a couple of hours, and the battery still showed as full. I was able to pick many keepers out of this session, improving my success rate by many folds. Moreover, it's completely silent, and the AF is always spot on. For this purpose, it's quite a unique camera, even better than the like of 1Dx or D1s. I'm happy that I stumbled on this gem.

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http://www.dropbox.com/sh/fct1j4gvkfr09jc/AzveP5tkAN

Burst mode working with non Nikon lens..... it took 2 kit lenses, but now 4k 60p raw can be shot on a jupiter 9!



WHAT THE HELL MAN!!!


method:-

buy a spare lens - or find a lens terminal from a nikon 1 lens. remove the terminal and glue in the right location into a nikon 1 to ef adaptor.

remove the ribbon cable off the terminal and solder trailing wires in its place. check with multimeter and then 5miniute epoxy over to seal your solder work in place so solder joints cant break.

solder the other end of the wires to the corresponding terminals on another nikon 1 lens. Then seal over all the soldering on the lens terminals with a cap and tape it down.

now the camera still thinks the kit lens is attached, and as you depress the shutter you can hear the lens trying to autofocus. while doing so, perform focus on your manual focus lens.

in order to take a photo you need to have an area of the image in focus before depressing the shutter button half way in order to present a green box 'focus' point' mark on the screen. Once focus is confirmed you can hold the shutter half depressed and refocus to your hearts content. then fully press to take the shot.

I did this modification for a mate. He supplied the nikon and 2 lenses. works great!

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method:-

buy a spare lens - or find a lens terminal from a nikon 1 lens. remove the terminal and glue in the right location into a nikon 1 to ef adaptor.

remove the ribbon cable off the terminal and solder trailing wires in its place. check with multimeter and then 5miniute epoxy over to seal your solder work in place so solder joints cant break.

solder the other end of the wires to the corresponding terminals on another nikon 1 lens. Then seal over all the soldering on the lens terminals with a cap and tape it down.

now the camera still thinks the kit lens is attached, and as you depress the shutter you can hear the lens trying to autofocus. while doing so, perform focus on your manual focus lens.

in order to take a photo you need to have an area of the image in focus before depressing the shutter button half way in order to present a green box 'focus' point' mark on the screen. Once focus is confirmed you can hold the shutter half depressed and refocus to your hearts content. then fully press to take the shot.

I did this modification for a mate. He supplied the nikon and 2 lenses. works great!

 

 

method:-

buy a spare lens - or find a lens terminal from a nikon 1 lens. remove the terminal and glue in the right location into a nikon 1 to ef adaptor.

remove the ribbon cable off the terminal and solder trailing wires in its place. check with multimeter and then 5miniute epoxy over to seal your solder work in place so solder joints cant break.

solder the other end of the wires to the corresponding terminals on another nikon 1 lens. Then seal over all the soldering on the lens terminals with a cap and tape it down.

now the camera still thinks the kit lens is attached, and as you depress the shutter you can hear the lens trying to autofocus. while doing so, perform focus on your manual focus lens.

in order to take a photo you need to have an area of the image in focus before depressing the shutter button half way in order to present a green box 'focus' point' mark on the screen. Once focus is confirmed you can hold the shutter half depressed and refocus to your hearts content. then fully press to take the shot.

I did this modification for a mate. He supplied the nikon and 2 lenses. works great!

 Just say WAOOOOO crazy guy :)

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I've created a few small clips from the V2 30 fps burst mode by importing the .nef files directly into FCPX and then assigning a duration of 1 frame to each.  I then create a compound clip from the result which can be easily edited.  What I don't know is if I'm losing quality with this approach - comments?

 

Another approach I've tried is to create an .mov with an app called Time-Lapse.  It imports .nef files and exports an .mov file with a variety of frame rates and resolutions.  It also allows for non-interactive modifications to the files (exposure, etc).

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I've used the FCPX workflow you're using too, except now I import my photos into Lightroom, edit them there, export them as DNGs, and then import them into FCPX and assign a frame to each. I do it this way just because I like Lightroom a bit better than I like the coloring tools in FCPX.

 

Going through FCPX is the only workflow I've gotten to work for me, but I'd be curious to hear more about whether quality is lost somehow in this process. 

 

I've created a few small clips from the V2 30 fps burst mode by importing the .nef files directly into FCPX and then assigning a duration of 1 frame to each.  I then create a compound clip from the result which can be easily edited.  What I don't know is if I'm losing quality with this approach - comments?

 

Another approach I've tried is to create an .mov with an app called Time-Lapse.  It imports .nef files and exports an .mov file with a variety of frame rates and resolutions.  It also allows for non-interactive modifications to the files (exposure, etc).

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Thanks for the information.

 

Anyone on V2 please? Can the shutter be controlled on V2?

 

We had covered this earlier in this thread. Yes, full manual shutter, aperture and ISO control with the V2 in burst mode, both with system lenses and with adapted lenses.

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Once again, this news has completely slipped me by!

 

Let me get this straight... There is a £600 camera, that can do burst mode raw stills up to 60fps? What is the current duration of the capture in seconds?

 

Please read this whole thread and the original EOSHD article. You'll find all the information there.

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