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About UncleBobsPhotography

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  1. I have tried to avoid learning a new NLE (other than Premiere), but I downloaded Resolve 17 to check out how it works with Canon RAW. It plays back Canon RAW 8K in 4K with colour corrections without struggling or dropping a frame on my mid-range computer! It seems like it requires the Studio version to open the h.265 files from the R5, perhaps that will be my excuse not to learn something new.
  2. I second this. I found the RF 50mm f/1.2 tempting, but after trying it I realized the focusing system was way too loud and the autofocus was quite jerky as well. I'm using an STM lens instead, and although it's not perfectly silent it's much more quiet and the focusing is smoother. It seems like the budget RF lenses are more suitable for video than the L RF glass.
  3. One other thing to have in mind is that most of the old EF lenses are capable of focusing beyond infinite. With a lens able to focus beyond infinite, it should be next to impossible for a misalignment of the sensor to cause this effect. Perhaps the new RF tele-lenses have tighter tolerances around infinite? This could cause the camera-lens combination to give problems you would not experience with older EF lenses.
  4. The focus on my R5 works perfectly, but I've heard similar reports. If you can't focus on something that is far away, but you are able to focus on closer subjects, it would usually mean the distance from the sensor to the lens elements is too large (imagine an unwanted extension ring). However, it would generally take quite a large shift for this to happen, and the adjustments inside the camera are small. Are you sure the problem is with the camera and not the lens? Would you be able to test the lens with another camera? Does any other lenses produce the same problem with your camera
  5. I didn't even look at the photos in the posting. They are probably BS, but the product is still good. I use these kind of lens hoods on all my lenses because they add very little bulk, are study enough for it's purpose (aluminium), but soft enough to dent if you drop the lens, cushioning the fall. I dont feel any need for using lens covers when I have these on with the way i store my lenses. When it comes to reducing flare, modern lenses dont really need lens hoods the way old lenses does, but they'll still be better than nothing, and more importantly, they don't degrade image quality lik
  6. This product is cheaper than UV filters, improves image quality instead of degrading it, and protects your lens: Magic Lens Protector and Image Quality Improver I've got a variety of filters, but don't use them all that often. The one I have used the most is variable ND filter just because of how convenience. Just got the Canon drop-in-variable ND-filter for the RF adapter, but since the sun has hardly come above the horizon I haven't gotten to use it much. The small amount I used it, it annoyed me a bit how easy it was to make adjustments by mistake. I wish it had a locking function or m
  7. I guess this could happen in theory, but I've never had any problems with it. I don't think the force will not be large enough to do any meaningful damage to your camera, at worst a small scratch in the LCD, probably not even that. The shot will be ruined, but triple tapping the trigger by mistake will ruin the shot regardless of whether the camera crash into the handle or not.
  8. Maybe not "fun", but my two most trusted useful tools that have proved to punch above their weight are the following: Triopo 65cm Softbox with bowens mount. Any softbox would probably do, but I got this one because it was the cheapest one on ebay, and I use it daily. Photography (with flash or constant light), filming, video calls, I use it for everything. It needs to be quite close to the subject for soft lighting since it's rather small, but that also means it's much easier to bring along and is easier to position. Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM. This lens is my most used lens even though
  9. I can see two fairly easy ways to get the effect on the humans: -Make the people a mask by having them lit in front of a black background. Then combine the two source files in a similar way you would do to fake a double exposure shot -Have them dress in all white in front of a background and have a projector project on them. I believe this technique is called something like "projector mapping". This is probably not done here as it's hard to avoid shadows, but a fun technique anyway.
  10. I use the screen flipped out with the Weebill Lab and the GH5 and I haven't had any problems balancing it with M43 lenses. The S5 is smaller and lighter than the GH5, so I would guess that it works, at least as long as you don't use the heavier lenses. I can't get the GH5 balanced if I use it with a speedbooster and Canon L glass.
  11. I have "scanned" quite a lot of film with a macro-lens. In my opinion, it works great resolution wise. My main problem has been getting the colours right. I start with inverting the colour curves in lightroom and setting white balance on the base film colour, but it still takes a lot of fiddling with the RGB channels to get it right. One problem is that since the film base colour is so red, the temperature in lightroom maxes out at 2000K while I believe it should go even lower to get it correct. Anyone else has any tips on getting the colours right? Is there something like a "Portra 400 L
  12. Steadycam and Glidecam, although somewhat similar, are two different type of stabilizers. Your Digislider Pro Carbon Fibre looks very similar to a small glidecam, so my guess is that you would have similar issues. Steadycams and Glidecams can work pretty well, but needs a lot more practice than a gimbal. I've got a gimbal and a Steadycam... but in reality I use tripods for everything.
  13. Thanks for the share, but the most important part of the video was how much he could improve the thermal management with a small piece of copper and some thermal paste. That seems to be enough to solve it for most of us.
  14. Phones are definitely eating up the camera business from the bottom up. First they replaced point and shoots, now they are replacing low-level DSLRs. This should tell us they will continue upwards eating up more and more professional equipment. However, there is also one thing speaking in favour of the camera business. Photography and videography is simply MUCH MUCH bigger today then it has even been before. Wanting to become an influencer, instagrammer or youtuber is so common you can't throw a rock without hitting one, and since the userbase is so large there will be a lot of people who
  15. These priorities comes down to where in your career you are. For someone just starting out, it can make sense to choose a system based on cost and to optimize hardware to save cost. For someone in the height of their career, the frustration of using an unfamiliar system or having to wait for h265 to transcode might be much higher than the cost of the hardware their using.
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