hijodeibn

Just when I was thinking some latest thread could be better placed in yellow press and I see this one who totally won place number one…..c'mon, to be honest I always laugh with Andrew's political thread, I usually differ from him, but that's life, we all have a different opinion in one point or another, the world will be really a bored place if we all think in the same way….

Just when I was thinking some latest thread could be better placed in yellow press and I see this one who totally won place number one…..c'mon, to be honest I always laugh with Andrew's political thread, I usually differ from him, but that's life, we all have a different opinion in one point or another, the world will be really a bored place if we all think in the same way….

Don`t worry, it was just a ad for a very expensive training course!!!

Film riot showed a DIY betterfly frame some time ago, probably you can do something similar using the Ikea shower curtains....if you do please share your results later, I am also interested in something similar....
 

Properly exposed C-log on the C100 II looked to me, with the right lens, every bit as good as the 5d3 in raw.  I shot the latter for 2+ years (started in about May of 2013).  At the end of the day there's just way too many compromises with the 5d3 raw - tedious workflow (comparatively speaking), camera lock ups, audio sync headaches *if* ML raw even decides to record audio (yes I've used modern nightly builds).  Reliability?  Don't even compare the two.  No instant backup, no ND filters, no XLR audio, no Autofocus, shorter record times, more expensive (1000x or faster) CF cards, super dodgy 3x zoom mode that locked me up often.
If I'm shooting something I can do 10 takes on the 5d3 would be a good choice.  If it's a bride walking down the aisle, 100 out of 100 times I'd grab the c100.  If I need continuous AF, good audio, long battery life, long record times, quick turnaround, (you see where I'm going here) I'll grab the c100.  With the Sigma 18-35 1.8 it's like 27-54 2.8 of full frame, and you can still throw that 85 1.2 and blow the hell out of the background on both cameras.  Hell in the summer I had the 5d3 OVERHEAT shooting ML raw.  Never seen the c100 hiccup ever.   That image does have the magic sauce, but so does the c100 in C-Log.  I prefer it over the 1dc due to all the headaches.
No reliable 1080p30 or 1080p60 raw on the 5d3; c100 II has this.  I hate looking at sports shot in 24p, don't you?
I can go out with the 10-18 STM, 18-135 and 55-250 and shoot just about anything.  Dead silent AF with face tracking, great audio, great image and reliable.  No menu diving to toggle the WB, ISO, F/Stop, better focus peaking and punch in while recording.  An actual EVF instead of strapping on a damn loupe!    But hey...if you must have static shots with the FF DOF and raw, the 5d3 is the only thing in this price range.

And you are still complaining about the image?, could you please share some of your work with the C100 and the atomos shogun and tell us what is wrong with the images?.....could be camera operator lack of skills?

Looks like you never used the C100 I or C300 I with a Ninja Star, you get pristine images from this combination, I highly recommend to add a Ninja Star to these cameras, specially in low light....and since the Ninja Star use generation one Cfast cards the cost is very affordable.....
STM lens are incredible with the C100, I am just using the 18-135 and I am very happy.....what are you going to use for night shooting?, I am going with a Canon 50mm 1.4 and a Canon 28mm 1.8, but I would like to hear from other options out there.....

Canon is not going to do anything, no need at all, and Sony will continue doing the same thing, crapy skin-tones in 6-month depreciated cameras……GH5 is the big winner here, it is going to sell like french fries, I think the only that could have stopped in some portion the mayor GH5 Tsunami should have been the announcement of a pocket v2….

I just saw an XC10 sold in ebay around $1,300……probably in just a few more months  will go under $1,000….. @mercer will be happy to ear this news, at that price is very tempting for a B camera….

To be honest I think the main reason that pros kept away from BM was the many issues with the first versions of their cameras, really a lot of problems, banding, low light performance, batteries, hot pixels, etc…..you named it and you can find it in BM cameras….the BM forum was certainly in fire those days with all the complains…...so now for a pro is really hard to trust in the new BM cameras, but the Ursa mini pro could probably change that perception, time will tell……..

Well, now Blackmagic is doing exactly the same than everybody else, protecting their high end cameras, and what we want is a pocket version 2, probably for NAB, hope so, but they did it right this time, no shipping delays….this is a very welcomed improvement...

The main issue is that with XC15 you still have the same ghosting like with the XC10, but there are some XC15 which do not have this issue, if you can go to the store and test several cameras and find out one without ghosting you made it big time!!!!…..but if that is not the case, and you still can live with the ghosting in your shooting stile, I strongly suggest you to pick up a second hand XC10 which now are going very cheap….

If you want to improve your shooting you certainly has to use lights, so use the extra money to get some lights like jonpais recommended you.
Regarding the camera, for what you are doing, both G85 and A6500 looks ok for your needs, if you are shooting in very hot environments and you need a very reliable camera probably G85 could be the best option, if not, then A6500 should be your first, but the lights is the most important, shooting in a room without lights is an invitation to bad footage….  

Thanks, very close Canon USM….

There is no ghosting, I feel happy now, raised the ISO and the blur was almost the same, the last picture that worried me was just an optic effect due to the color of the flowerpot base……clearly I overreacted, well I guess we all have a bad day sometimes…..
Dammed XC10 !!!!!!, I am seeing ghosting now everywhere !!!!
Thanks man, I totally forgot to raise the ISO to confirm, good catch!!!!

Jesus!!!, you really need to learn to be in silence man, I own a Red One camera and master the speed of panning with it takes some time, specially if you are shooting buildings, again, what you are pointing out is general knowledge, and I am not here to debate what I know or not with you, I am here to learn from more experience people, clearly I don`t see you like one of those people, I was looking for the advice from people very knowledgable in ghosting like @kidzrevil , or like @hyalinejim who catches immediately the tests I forgot raising the ISO, which everyone before his comment also missed!!!! (including you)
Again, have a nice day!!!

There is no ghosting, I feel happy now, raised the ISO and the blur was almost the same, the last picture that worried me was just an optic effect due to the color of the flowerpot base……clearly I overreacted, well I guess we all have a bad day sometimes…..
Dammed XC10 !!!!!!, I am seeing ghosting now everywhere !!!!
Thanks man, I totally forgot to raise the ISO to confirm, good catch!!!!

I had a similar idea some years ago, but a little different, I wanted to shoot in digital and later transfer it to film, the purpose was different, I wanted to release the movie in film in a local cinema, and the main issue is the cost, it is really expensive, but let me tell you how I was going to do it, first you have to produce the final cut of the movie, adding all the effects, etc, then using a DIY process transfer the digital movie frame by frame to film, my idea was to create a system to project each frame of the digital movie to the lens of a Konvas camera, using a step motor to rotate the film, I have seen this done for 16mm cameras; but I wanted it for a 35mm konvas camera, if you only want to transfer to a 16mm camera there are some tutorials available in youtube. In your case you also will have to do the inverse process (called Telecine), also some tutorials are available in youtube, if the money is no restriction probably in a formal Telecine company can help you to do the whole process, but again, is not going to be cheap…. 

Most probably the back element will perform just like a fixed ND filter

Sorry mat33 but you can do everything perfectly right with a C100 or C300, the only issue is that the camera is much bigger, and I will have to go to the gym for some months before start the project, I agree if the ghosting was not there I would probably choose an XC10…..which certainly was my first option, luckily we have in our community a cinematographer with so high standards like @kidzrevil who showed us what everybody else missed before I pressed BUY bottom….. 

My whole setup was made for handheld, since I needed the camera for run&gun, and I find out a 4-point of contacts solution that didn`t hear or see anywhere, the solution I always hear was the 3-point of contacts using your hands and an eyecup, but I added a small-rig top plate to the camera and I was able to move back the top handle of the camera until it touches my front, so now with these 4-point of contacts (right hand on the grip, left hand in the base of the camera, right eye in the eyecup, and front in the back of the top handle), and keeping my arms very close to my body, I feel the camera much more stable and reliable….probably I will add some high density foam in the top handle later to feel it even more comfortable…..I also got a monopod to rest sometimes during the shooting, and for interviews….anyway, I am sure around the 5-6 day of shooting I will be praying for a wheelchair…..

Sorry mat33 but you can do everything perfectly right with a C100 or C300, the only issue is that the camera is much bigger, and I will have to go to the gym for some months before start the project, I agree if the ghosting was not there I would probably choose an XC10…..which certainly was my first option, luckily we have in our community a cinematographer with so high standards like @kidzrevil who showed us what everybody else missed before I pressed BUY bottom….. 

Well, some real-life issues could be: you are working in a documentary and you are following your character during the night, you are following him in a forest, in a cave, he start running late in the day and you running behind…..etc….

I also think it was exaggerated, the change are around 99.98%, wake up people, Sony is not going to hurt the FS5/FS7, Panasonic is the only one who is going to give us 10bit 422 since they don`t have any other camera above to protect....if you have the money, go for the C300 mkii, you can use that camera for everything, it is a workhorse, I didn`t have the money so I went for the C100 mki with atomos ninja star, 8bit 422, and I am happy with it!!!

Probably a Gx85, G80, or a GH5 could be a better option to match C100 color, for my C100 I am seriously thinking to get a GX85 as a B camera, I liked the IBIS on it and of course the price, in the second market they are going very cheap now….