MountneerMan

Both BHphoto and Digitalrev list the GH5 (no pricing and specs yet)
http://www.43rumors.com/both-bhphoto-and-digitalrev-list-the-gh5-no-pricing-and-specs-yet/
 
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1283257-REG/panasonic_dmc_gh5_mirrorless_micro_four.html
http://store.digitalrev.com/product/panasonic-lumix-dmc-gh5-body/MTEwNTI4Ng_A_A

Well i think we would need to "profile" each lens using a measuring tape and perhaps a telnet script that moves to the first focus position takes a photos moves to the the next position takes another photo then so on then pull all those photos into the computer and zoom and see the exact focus distance at each position then use that to build a look up table.

Hahahaha I love the smell of trolls in the morning!
@Kinoseed, I have a suggestion for a script/hack. Would it be possible to calculate in camera the near and far focal distance and then display those two numbers at the bottom of the screen? These numbers would then automatically update as you change focus or aperture. This would be good for landscape work as well as using the camera on a gimbal.
This feature would obviously be toggled off and on in the menu.
Side note, thanks for your continued effort into making these cameras even more incredible. 

I used the 16-50 2/2.8 S lens only (only lens I have for it). I generated a LUT from resolve's Color Match feature (input LUT) if you would like to play with it. Keep in mind this is based of a single example after setting my white balance with the gray card and the listed settings. For a more accurate run and gun setting (when I don't have the color checker with me) I would ideally find the average variation between color temps and in camera white balance.
Gamma C was more accurate than Normal (Gamma DR being the best). I tried out all of the picture wizard settings, but they were pretty all over the place (not that I was expecting much out of Forrest or Retro). A second setting that came oddly close to my listed settings from the last post used all of the same settings except for (color 1.04 Red, 0.93 Green, 1.04 Blue).

I am going to play around with this setting in some non-clinical uses. I like it so far in tandem with resolve's film looks, as long as they are scaled back a little. I do like Ricardo's Settings with Gamma C and the raised black level for more heavily graded uses.
NX1-GammaDR-custom-alpha_1.SAM_0908_1080P_ProRes422_LT.cube

The lut (alpha test version) was designed for the following settings:
Color Checker NX1 Settings
Luminance Level 0-255, Master Black Level -5
Gamma DR {Color - 1.00Red, 0.95 Green, 1.00 Blue, Saturation: -3, Sharpness: -10, Contrast: -3, Hue: 0}
The other settings below came close in accuracy, but didn't work as consistently across color temps (so I would not recommend them unless someone else wanted to do further testing with a Xrite Color Checker).
Alt Color Checker Rough Draft (don't use this!)
Luminance Level 0-255, Master Black Level -5
Gamma DR {Color - 1.04Red, 0.93 Green, 1.04 Blue, Saturation: -3, Sharpness: -10, Contrast: -3, Hue: 0}
If you haven't used the Color Match feature in Davinci Resolve before, it does result in an overall desaturated/neutral image once applied (just an accurate starting point). The intent of these settings is to have as minimal of grading applied from in camera video to a color accurate starting point. This would also help with having more latitude to match other cameras. Most of this is to correct the shift/inaccurate deep red/magenta, deep blue, and aqua/teal colors (which in turn help skin tone and in general). At the moment I do not know how beneficial these settings will be without the use of a color checker. Currently I use the color checker to set a custom white balance and then use color match in resolve(the lut I attached was generated off of the color match feature in resolve). The lut is just a (beta test) file for people who do not have a color checker who want to try these settings.

Within Resolve or other programs you can then convert from Rec.709 to Linear or other color spaces after using the settings and lut as a starting point.

fyi, both have the same processor.
NX500 was/is just crippled, however the crop is controlled by the PPUs which were not able to modify.
There are specific registers, which control how they process cropping/resampling, etc, however as soon as we touch those in memory, the thing crashes.

re the mbps - of course those are "the same", this is just the bitrate for encoding of the file, which already gets the copped/resampled image from the PPU.

IMO investing in a new body has the lowest ROI for improving your film making than any other peace of gear so IMO you are on the wrong side of the "Sense-O-Meter" 
 
You keep trying to compare the NX1 to other cameras currently on the market today witch is completely missing my point that regardless how good or bad other cameras are compared to samsung, the NX system is dead and eventually we will all need to pick a new one and switch and buy all new bodies and lenses and at that point in time I would mach rather have an extra $1500 in my pocket to spend then to have the an EVF, 120p and no crop 4k for 2 years. But that is my opinion and my advice he can take it or leave.
Maybe if the question was I currently have an cannon M series camera should I upgrade to the NX1 then your arguments and examples make sense.
This is a completely different circumstance I am not at all suggesting he sell is NX500 and he clearly was not talking about buying a B camera(or in this case new A camera) he clearly said "Should I upgrade" and the answer IMO is no the features gained from going from an NX500 to an NX1 is not worth $1500. again that is my opinion he can take it or leave it I don't really care.
I didnt mean forever in a literal sense and I know you are smart enough to know that so why even bring this up.

I agree however like I mentioned we are all going to need to change systems eventually and if not buying a NX1 now is the difference between getting a one "pro" lens(24-70) or two "pro" lens(24-70 & 70-200) when you do switch systems in one or two years I would suggest you save your money.
Or if you have money now that is burning a hole in your pocket and you are the type of person who needs to constantly be buying new gear. Invest in gear support like a mono pod or gimbal. Hell even get a drone all of these will improve your film making more than upgrading to an NX1 from an NX500.

The NX1 is has quite a few features that the NX500 doesn't have mainly the EVF and no 4k crop.
However I would suggest you don't upgrade and save your money to buy into a new system. Not because the samsung system is not good but because you will have to eventually so mine as well save as much money as you can to fully leap into a new system when the time comes. This is exactly what I am doing.

The NX1 is has quite a few features that the NX500 doesn't have mainly the EVF and no 4k crop.
However I would suggest you don't upgrade and save your money to buy into a new system. Not because the samsung system is not good but because you will have to eventually so mine as well save as much money as you can to fully leap into a new system when the time comes. This is exactly what I am doing.

Unfortunately Vasile seems to be MIA.

Wow. Canon EF lenses working WITH IS on an NX1.... THAT would be some large jar of awesome sauce.

As for the hack - It's fine if it doesn't go any further because it already has added so much. I say "let it be finished". One less thing to always be updating, right?
As for it only adding "ten-percent better image quality", well that's HUGE. That's a lot. Especially if it's doing it right where it's needed.
For critical images it has been worth the effort. I can get footage to work when cut in with higher-grade cameras now that that grunge in the shadows has been cleaned up. That was enough. Heck, it's everything really. If not for that one factor, I probably would have had to let my NX1 go in exchange for something a lot more expensive. 

Hi Pavel, yes IS work, this last work revolutionary the Samsung nx camera users.

Enjoy.

Not good news :P  First I tried with Canon 40mm pancake, the lens wasn't responding at all, I suspect that the protocol has expanded a bit.  Spent that weekend trying to get any kind of response to no avail.  Good-ish news, during the week I tried the 28-135 and there is definitely movement in the lens, but I've had no time to explore further.  It seems like I might need to get a logic analyzer to have a shot at it working with newer Canon lenses.  If anyone wants to leapfrog me, there is someone that claims to have made such a working adapter for basic manual control using buttons on the adapter for focus and aperture, and was actually using it on NX. 
Scroll way down to the post by a Peter S on January 2, 2012 at 14:15
https://pickandplace.wordpress.com/2011/10/05/canon-ef-s-protocol-and-electronic-follow-focus/
Need to adapt that code to Arduino Nano when I get a chance, very similar microcontroller used in his project. 
http://blueringlab.com/2016/03/canon-ef-lens-aperture-control-test/
It's too bad he didn't post that code, the answer to his unresolved precise aperture setting is in Peter's post. 
http://howiem.com/wordpress/index.php/2016/07/07/motion-control-canon-ef-lens-hacking/
Is an informative post, he also has code available, but it is a bit different, being driven from a connected computer rather than a microcontroller, etc.. but still possibly useful. 
In my searching about, it seems that almost everything the public knows about the EF protocol originates from this German thread:
http://www.dslr-forum.de/showthread.php?t=649529&page=61
Which is unfortunately a jumbled mess and all the useful compilations of the info some members made seem to be defunct.  Still, it's worth combing through. 
The next step for me I think is to re-verify the physical integrity of my connections, then start working with the 28-135 instead of that obnoxious 40mm.  Not sure 100% about the logic analyzer yet... but since I'm thinking it will be needed eventually I'm starting to feel like I should order one soon.
The NX side is easier and harder.  I think I have quite a bit more concrete information on the protocol, thanks in part to rockymountain's blueringlab site, but this side likely involves fooling the camera about certain aspects of the lens and spoofing lens responses. 
Luca: If I want more than one focal reducer should I donate that number of times?  <- in bold because the site is merging my posts and I thought this should be separate. 

Sure I used it a lot. Overall it is fantastic because the build quality is fairly high, it is light and so compact for travel and it is extremely quick to setup. Most times when I was re-balancing I was doing it while walking to another site. Oh and it's really nice to be able to put down on the ground as well. I used to set it down so I could shoot with another camera.
But, all that being said, it is nowhere near as good as a gimbal. I just picked up a gimbal (see other thread in forum, 2nd page ish) and it is sooo much easier to fly. I am talking when there is wind, when you are walking fast etc.... The gimbal gives you better shots at a higher percentage. It is a bit less fluid, but the problem is with all non gimbal stabilizers like the came h4 do better with lot's of weight which sucks. The gimbals are ok with little weight from what I have experienced.
I know a gimbal is a bit more money and it's electronic, but a good gimbal is a better rig to have in your bag I think.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=minolta+to+m43+speedbooster&l=1

Im currently testing some new settings to get different types of look, will share later
I think this camera shines when you put the 16-50S on it, I've had the 18-35mm Sigma and I dont think its as good as the Samsung lens. I do love the 35mm f1.4 though.

Great work here guys!
If you guys are after the 16-50s, I just wanted to point out that it looks like samsungparts still has some of them.

If you guys remember that dpreview thread with all the lenses being available for cheap from the samsung parts site, some of those deals are still available.

The 16-50s is $800 new. There is no lens hood included, though it can be ordered separately for like $16 if i remember.

This is how I got my 16-50 when this was first brought to light.
 
Here's the link if anyone wants it
http://www.samsungparts.com/Products/Parts_and_Accessories/PID-AD97-23876A.aspx
 
Seemingly sketchy site, but I've bought multiple lenses from them and have had good experiences.




 

I would say that by not mentioning it in the launch indicates that there is a better chance of not having it then having it.
Im not saying they wont put it in. I am just saying IMO its more like 85% chance no IBIS and 15% IBIS.

thank you so much for the kind words everyone. All i had with me was the nx1 body paired with 16-50s and a very unstable and cheap tripod, had to upgrade it btw cause i missed a lot of shots because of it. Sometime i used the tripod folded as a rig for better camera grip and stabilization. In terms of settings i have used Normal Gamma with sat -5, sharpness -10 and contrast -3. I had MB at plus 9. I did the edit in Final Cut Pro X where i just tweaked the exposure wherever was the case and apply an m31 LUT at 50% and warmed the overall look and feel by a notch. that's all i did. Thank you again for the support and the nice feedback. i put my heart to it and it seems that got to u which makes me proud. cheers.

I really like this as well. I love the detail and sharpness. I also would like to know the lens.
To save time from looking through the forum what are Ricardo's Setting you used and did you use any LUTS in PP or just graded it yourself?

Just watched it again. I really like the contrast, sharpness, saturation and everything else in the shot at 0:40. absolutely incredible! Please reveal your secret to this exact shot lol.

Just watched it again. I really like the contrast, sharpness, saturation and everything else in the shot at 0:40. absolutely incredible! Please reveal your secret to this exact shot lol.

Normal gamma, and mostly Ricadro's settings. Enjoy :