Dustin

The high iso performance of my XT3 is worlds ahead of my previous experience. While 3200 and 6400 do add some noise; I find it looks more like film grain, which I don’t mind! Very usable.

It seems like a lot of sensors that don't list having dual native ISO actually do. XT3 seems cleaner at 3200 than 1600, which would make sense considering it uses a similar sensor to the BMP6K.

Much smarter for them to sell 100s of millions of (maybe billions?) of smartphone components than probably single digit millions of DSLR style mirrorless camera.
However, they showed that even to this day it seems the camera companies are holding back on all fronts.

Well at this point in time, a single S5 body, the 20-60 and the 85mm.
I am going to order the ZV1, probably today so I can get familiar (ooh err missus) with it.
But that’s it until Spring ‘21 because I have to balance ‘play time’ ahead of the next wedding season with the fact there still may not be a next wedding season.
The intent as things stand is either 3x S5 bodies, or 2x S5 bodies + an S1, the ZV1, the 20-60, 35mm f1.8, 85mm f1.8 and then either keep the free Sigma 45mm f2.8 (if it ever turns up) or go with the 50mm f1.8.
Bottom line is:
1x body with zoom, static manual focus longer form video on tripod, but doubles as a wide angle prime when not filming ceremony or speeches.
2x bodies with primes for hybrid use all day long, handheld as I am liking the IBIS enough to warrant not using sticks.
1x compact for entrances/exits/walking shots, on freestanding monopod, plus doubles as second angle/backup filming for ceremony & speeches.
It is the most compact and least flawed/compromised kit I can come up with for my specific one man band hybrid wedding needs.
For commercial, just the pair of S5’s with the primes.
For landscape/hiking, single S5 with the kit lens, plus the 70-300 that is due at some point. This is photo only use.
Personal/travel that is not work, the ZV1.
Good to hear you are enjoying the Fuji.
It’s where I would go (gone back to) right now if I had not been able to make the above work, but I would have switched to XT4 for the IBIS and improved battery life.

I have a Crane 1 and a Weebill s.
Whenever you have a problem, you should definitely try to calibrate the gimbal. Now, i've never had a Crane V2, but I would certainly imagine that it has the ability to be calibrated.
On the Weebill S (and I think on the crane one) you use your phone to connect to the gimbal and start the calibration process.
It is best to be near a computer with a video about calibration on the computer since the images on your phone will most likely be too small.
Hope this helps. 

I wish I can help you on this.... the biggest problems I’ve faced in the past is balancing.... you need to be next level passionate about it.... once you get it, you have to keep practicing with different lenses and stuff. I bought into one, used it once and it wasn’t even properly balanced (spent 4+ hours before I said fuck it.... it’s good enough) thereafter I started hiring other people who were good at gimbal work (time is money and if I can allocate my time elsewhere - where I’m not spending the time to balance). The guy that I hired often got it down to 5 to 10 min. any camera and any lens.

Good to know! I was going to say, the OIS in this kit lens is better than any I’ve ever had. I have a few Nikon primes I’ll eventually buy a dumb adapter/speedbooster for. Particularly my 100mm 2.8 e series Nikon prime. Really enjoying this camera so far, especially the colors.

Unfortunately the 16-55 does do stepping during a zoom. It is the lens being used in the first video I linked above at time 4:52.
That is how the lens maintains a constant aperture, same as my Fuji 10-24 f4 (see my post above, Thursday August 6).
I was thinking the 18-55 was doing some sort of ISO stepping, but putting the lens to my ear I can hear faint clicking that
sounds like aperture stepping while zooming at above f4. So the new X-T4 firmware may not fix this.
The OIS is strong in this lens, great for hand holding in one position. It may be overly strong for panning shots since there is little
ease-out when coming to a stop and appears too abrupt. So I pan slowly with OIS on.
I have several old 35mm SLR zoom lenses that work best for zoom shots. They have manual aperture rings (no stepping) and are very parfocal so they don't rely on the camera's auto focus.  They are also a small fraction of the cost of new Fuji zooms, and use $20 adapters.

One other condition avoids zoom exposure stepping:
If you have the X-T3 settings all on manual and your 18-55 is wide open at f2.8 (at wide angle), then a zoom
does not do the exposure stepping and will darken at the telephoto end during a video shot.
But close the aperture down to f4 or more and the stepping will happen 3 times during a zoom;
and the telephoto will end at the same brightness that the wide angle started at.
Note that 3 steps x 1/3rd stop each = one stop = from f2.8 (wide) to f4 (telephoto).
For still photos this is an advantage, for video it is an unwanted "blinking" artifact.
 
 
 

Yeah there is a shift when zooming for some reason. Its not ISO or F stop. Very weird but pretty much makes zooming in while recording not usable. 

A good reaction on Twitter:

I agree with Quinn about it being a bad look.
They need to at the very least come clean, answer, own up and apologise.
Then fix it.

EOSHD testing finds Canon EOS R5 overheating to be fake, with artificial timers deployed to lock out video mode. In this test, we will probe my Canon EOS R5’s actual internal temperature in Celsius, as reported by the firmware.
This week CDA-TEK and I are developing an Android app for the Canon EOS R5, which connects to the camera via the Canon API...
Please read the rest of the article on the blog carefully before commenting below

Needs quite a strong ND the wider open you shoot on a bright day!
I've been using a variable Gobe, but it's not great at the stonger end...
I was going to replace it with the Polar Pro, but because it now seems to have Peter McWotsits name on it by default...and I am sure I would be paying a premium for that unwanted 'privilege', so I'm looking at the Freewells that come in 1-5 and 6-9 flavours as a set which would be great for cloudy/indoor and sunny days respectively.
But actually, right now, not spending anything as the way things stand, yes, shot a wedding last week, but that does not mean my next 4 spread over Sep & Oct will happen and if they do not, it's May 2021 and that could be; XH2, Z6s or A7Siii time... Or it might still be XT3 but right now, the new Sony has a lot of appeal for my specific needs...

400% @640 iso all the time unless I need to push the iso.

The XT3 is a great camera for video and photos, best value hybrid in my opinion. You may want to get a spare battery or 2 though, they don't last quite as long as I would like (or get a power bank for all day shooting)

v60 is fine. I have a Lexar 126G SDXC II V 60 card rated for 150 MB/s that's worked great. In the second card slot I usually have a San Disk Extreme 32G SDHC V30 card rated at 90MB/s that B&H sent with the camera.

You don't get internal 10-bit or 4K 60p on the XH-1

Also consider a ACES transform as well, still my favorite option with Sony Footage. 

This was only done with a ACES transform, Input Transform: Sony Slog2 (Daylight), Output Transform: Rec. 709. Did not touch any adjustments.  


Graded to Brighten it

I've also been super happy with my T3. Love the image quality out of it and the film simulations for photo. I have been able to get the Ninja to work fine with it and really like getting a 422 Prores file to edit, plus a much bigger monitor with a full suite of monitoring tools is clutch.
I've mainly used the 18-55 on it; it really is a decent lens if a bit slow. A key benefit of the X-mount system that hasn't been mentioned yet is cheap, good cinema glass. I have a Meike 25mm, and it's a great piece of glass to use, if you have a matte box to control flairs. I'll definitely be getting more of these lenses if Canon continues to screw up it's mirrorless line.
I've had the new Metabones speedbooster for a week or so. It does boost your price range a fair bit, but if you have old lenses you can use with it, it might well be worth the investment. The optical quality is great as far as I can tell. The autofocus does work, but I can't yet say whether it matches or beats native lenses because my L-glass is all quite old (~15 years) with USM motors. I'd like to try it out with STM motors or the very best new L-glass.

You did not blow out the clouds. Clearly still there in the log image. How are you coverting to rec709? Just a LUT? Are you in resolve? If you are make sure to use lumanence mapping when doing the color space transform.
If you are in Premiere pull down the highlights and they should come back.

The X-T3 is an amazing tool. If you do decide to go that route and want to buy used, I’m selling mine in great condition with the 18-55. Also happy to answer any questions as I’ve used it a bunch. 

XT3 you can switch between stills and video but you need to enable silent mode.
Having said that, it’s FAR better having a switch like the XT4.
Do you need to shoot 4K Dustin or is 1080 good enough because that would open up another Fuji contender, the XH1.
Loved loved loved my XH1...but traded IBIS for 4K moving to XT3.
If I had to make that same choice today, I’d pick IBIS for my specific needs.
Very cheap are XH1’s... 

Depending on how extensively you plan on using the external recorder I would consider the Nikon Z6. Full Frame, Ibis, and far better battery. If your sticking mainly internally XT-3 is a better option. 
One thing to consider is the XT-3 is extremely annoying when your switching between photo/video as the settings are not separated. I tried it out, think I may switch away from Z6, and that drove me up the wall and I found I really missed the IBIS.
Also God do I hate the micro-HDMI on the XT-3. Can't use a monitor without a cage

I honestly have no idea what your machine will handle, - I'm a PC guy and not very techy!
I use Premiere and can tell you straight away that if I even try importing h.265, it just says, "err, no, I don't think so sunshine", so the evening before I am going to start a video edit, I batch convert the whole lot to Pro Res overnight.
I don't think you have to link up 4+gb files anymore? I think an early firmware fixed that?
Re. the Fringer, mine is a first edition model and it's a funny one, - I think it works BETTER for video AF than anything native that I have used, but is not as good as native glass for stills. Go figure that one, but I'm not complaining as I like my f1.8 glass for video!
Alternatives might be...and it's not cheap, but I'd really like to give it a whirl, is the new Metabones ef to X mount 0.71x focal reducer. I'd like to give that a go with something like the Tamron 24-70mm f2.8 and 35-150mm f2.8-4, because if the AF works well for stills and video, I'd use that pair on a pair of XH2's. If that body actually does appear and they don't screw it up...
Actually, both of those lenses being OIS, they could work pretty well on an XT3 which has the far superior screen to the XT4 and with a grip, about the same battery power.
Nikon Z6 would be my second choice if I was happy with 1080 internally or using an external monitor/recorder for 4k.
Beyond that, nothing else that interests me right now in this kind of price bracket (with the Z6 being not that much more than the Fuji).
Yes, there are various Sony offerings, but anything pre-new boy doesn't interest me.
Canon EOS R if you don't mind the crop?
Panasonic G9 not to be overlooked!
I buy most of my kit used these days and paid £900 a few weeks ago for a dealer XT3.
Codec/colour science: That's a moot question... As a Sony user you will be more familiar with it but I'll stick my neck out and say that the XT3 video output is nicer/better, based on no other opinion than my own 🙂

I have not had any of that model range Sony's but do use (I can say do, as I had a wedding last week) the XT3 as my principal workhorse in 2020 and did throughout 2019.
I am more than happy with it and use it as follows:
On a free-standing (Sirui) monopod with Anker powerbank, Fringer Pro adapter, autofocus, Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 and Tamron 45mm f1.8, 4k 60p internal, Eterna last year, Classic Chrome this year.
Re. lenses, I don't much care for any of Fuji's lenses for video but would rank them roughly as follows:
16-55mm f2.8 the best followed by 18-55mm f2.8-4, (though this latter lens is a bit slow for me) and 16-80mm f4 (ditto, but outdoors and at the longer end, pretty good).
The f2's, but they can pulse a bit using AF, especially the 35mm f2.
The fast 1.4's and 1.2 are awful for AF.
I should add that I use my XT3's for 'hybrid', but have one set up purely for video and one for stills and rate them as excellent for both.
I tend to shoot up to 6400 iso max.
Criticisms?
Of the actual XT3, nothing really other than I prefer the XH1 form factor and would like the IBIS and bigger battery from the XT4 (all of which might be an XH2 in 2021) because I could then ditch the monopod and Anker battery pack for all but 2-3 minutes of a typical 15 hour shoot day.
I also might switch to flog on an XH2 but working in super-bright sunlight as I do in SW France without an external monitor etc it currently is not an option for me.
Gimbal?
Tried a Ronin S and then a Weebill lab. 
Sent both back, - gimbal stylee just isn't for me.
I hope that helps.