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Jay60p

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  1. My 2018 Mac mini has the T2 chip. In the Handbrake compressor video encoder there are two Apple “VideoToolbox” modes, one H264 & one H265. These modes have accelerated encoding several times faster than the other modes, and I think these use the T2 chip for encoding. Unfortunately my "H.265 (VideoToolbox)" encoding test from 10bit input came out 8bit from Handbrake. Nevertheless Quicktime playback of 4k60p 10bit HEVC is always smooth on this machine.
  2. Oh, the wind in the bushes - that wasn't a zoom. That was a slider shot close-up across my flowering bushes on a windy day. The bushes filled the frame with branches moving in chaotic directions, I wanted the InertiaCam to smooth the slider into a constant speed motion, like it does with zooms. But instead it tried to smooth the waving branches. Subject motion that fills the frame like that can be problematic. Do you mean you don't get good stabilization, or you don't get bad distortion? I don't know Davinci, someone else here might help you?
  3. One weakness of the FCP X stabilizer is that since there is no gyroscopic information, It only has the pixels in the image to go by. So it must distinguish between camera motion and subject motion. With the camera locked down during a zoom shot InertiaCam has occasionally tried to stabilize wind blowing bushes or a person passing close across the frame and that resulted In some really weird distortions. Sometimes switching to SmoothCam fixes this, but it can be impossible to get a good EIS stabilization with too much subject motion. That doesn’t happen to me often, but it shows one advantage of motion sensor driven OIS and IBIS over EIS. I don’t have a camera with IBIS so I haven’t experimented with that. But I did try this with the Fuji 18-55 kit lens: I taped a big post card on the end of my lens support rails to cover the camera’s view, and turned on OIS while hand holding. The OIS lens shifting can be seen on the video of the postcard (the OIS generated the image shake), proving that the actual video image has no effect on OIS.
  4. This looks like a great possibility for a professional who is doing a lot of run & gun work, and an alternative to gimbals. It is about $300 US. The main limitation seems to be recommendation against using mirrorless cameras that have IBIS… “The reason is simple: the sensor is stabilized inside the camera, the position of the sensor is not precise every time, and it can screw the post-stabilization software. In fact, during the test session that we did, I wanted to shoot a couple of test footage with my GH5, and I was strongly advised not to do so.” So the best cameras to use this would include GH5S, X-T3 but not GH5 or X-T4 or the Sonys. And it’s programmed for prime lenses, not for zoom shots. I’d love to see the results compared with FCP X InertiaCam. (Like InertiaCam it works best at shutter speeds of 1/125 or 1/250, and will crop into into the frame.)
  5. Isn't that Richard Nixon on that Ikonoskop Kamera?
  6. I just noticed you have to have FCP X viewer in "better performance" mode, otherwise the edges are cropped in playback and you don't see the pre-cropped movements of the frame edges. And for what it's worth, I found the "neck strap" method of hand holding during a walk helps reduce shake. That is holding the camera in front of you far enough for the strap to be tight around the back of your neck and viewing the shot on the LCD as you walk.
  7. This Cinetinker blog shows how to open your Bolex and take out the insides for service, lots of cool photos of intricate parts & gears. (maybe you'll see what is broken and will fix it instead!) http://cinetinker.blogspot.com/2013/01/ "Although the following service procedure is done on a D8L (more or less a D8LA without the rewind facility), all of the pocket cameras used basically the same internal mechanisms, so portions of this procedure can also be used on them. This includes the B8, C8 and D8 variants and the zoom reflex models P1, P2 and P3." (also see http://www.bolexcollector.com/cameras/b8.html )
  8. I just tried some more walking and running at 10mm with the 10-24mm zoom, with OIS on to help. In FCP X you can see the difference between what's happening with SmoothCam vs. InertiaCam after analysis by reducing the scale of the frame (I did 50%) and then playing the clip in slow motion (holding down K + L keys). In SmoothCam the edges of the frame move up, down, sidways and rotate slightly as it compensates for the walking motion in the shot. But the frame remains a rectangle, does not distort "out of square". But in InertiaCam the frame does move out of square with edges stretching in or outwards as the clip plays. This may be why a 10mm extreme wide angle will stabilize better with less warp in software than in the X-T4 IBIS. Anyway, my running test failed miserably, that's just too much violent movement for the Software to fix! Long ago I briefly considered a gimbal but realized the way I work, I'd rarely actually go to the time and trouble of setting up & balancing the thing. Besides I don't do much running, I more of a biker. Are you using 24 or 30fps and what motion blur solution works for you?
  9. Yes, you need to use higher shutter speeds. My walking shot I'm referring to was shot at 4k 60p at 1/125th sec, so there is no overly blurred frames as I was taking steps. Plus there is more for the stabilizer to work with at 60fps compared to 24 or 30. But even beyond that, the FCP X stabilizer must be doing more than what the merely mechanical IBIS is doing when shifting axes. If I set it for "SmoothCam" motion, I do get some of the corner wobbles with my 10mm wide angle, but setting it to "InertiaCam" motion reduces that wobble distortion. Then pulling the amount down from the default "1" amount to say, "0.5" reduces the stabilization & the distortion & cropping but still gives a major improvement over no stabilization, and at that point I am quite happy with it. In fact I usually find the default "1" to be overkill.
  10. There is a lot of discussion about the “wobbliness” with the new IBIS in the X-T4. What about software stabilization? (No doubt this has been discussed before, I just can't seem to find it) It seems Premiere, After FX, Resolve, FCP X all use the same basic functions such as translation, rotation, scaling, cropping etc. and have the advantage of selecting kinds of & amounts of stabilization after the fact. Walking shots with a 10mm wide angle on the X-T3 are much improved with much less “wobbliness” distortion than I see in the IBIS youtube videos, with an acceptable amount of cropping. “Acceptable” is subjective and I’m sure a lot of people avoid post production stabilization completely. But the more I play with it the more I like it for certain kinds of shots. Example: a zoom shot, on a locked tripod with a manual lens. Trying to do an extremely slow zoom by turning the ring by hand is difficult to do at constant speed throughout. Turn on stabilization and an unsteady manual zoom runs as smooth as a camcorder’s motorized zoom, with ease in and out added at the start and end. And in my testing the cropping is almost nothing. Any other suggestions, opinions?
  11. The good news is that these DIY methods are easy, I'm set now and don't need to try the Pro adapters. If the adapters were too long instead of short, then we'd really be screwed! Here's my final results with my 35mm SLR zoom lenses & adapters I use for video (your results may differ)... Nikkor AF 28-85mm f/3.5-4.5 on Fotodiox NIK-FX - parfocal, no adjustment needed. Nikkor AF 28-85mm f/3.5-4.5 on Fotodiox NIK(G)-FX - needs extension for parfocality. Canon FD 35-70 f4, and Canon FD 70-210 f4 on Fotasy FD-FX - parfocal, no adjustment needed. SMC Pentax-AF 100-300 f/4.5-5.6 on Fotodiox PK(A)-FX - needs extension for parfocality.
  12. Does the free version of Resolve do 4K60p now? Last time I looked it didn't so never tried it. On my Mac mini (i5) I use FCP and it always plays HEVC 4k60p smoothly at the viewer's "better performance" setting. Maybe due to the mini's T2 chip acceleration for H265. I expect FCP will always be optimized for performance on a Mac sooner than the non-Apple apps. But definitely try both! You never know what is going to work best on any particular machine. And the time lines are very different, you should try both to see what you prefer.
  13. I found the same problem with my SMC Pentax-FA 100-300 and the Fotodiox PK(A)-FX adapter. Symptoms are focusing past infinity, and shifting focus distance farther when zoomed back to wide angle. I fixed that adapter the same way, but that needed more than twice as much extension (18 thousands of an inch). The lens is now parfocal. I can see why Fotodiox would want to err on the short side with these adapters since prime lenses aren't much affected as long as they reach infinity. Zooms need more accuracy for parfocality. Maybe the more expensive "pro" Fotodiox are more accurate?
  14. P.S. If my X-T3 shots don't look so hot, they were blow-ups from the full frame's view: and shot in available light in UHD at 60p but only 100mb/s, at ISO 10,000 since it was a quick and dirty lens test. Didn't know I'd be putting this online.
  15. Thanks, that is good info. I also have M42 and Pentax and Nikon. Too bad it doesn't take Canon FD. The only thing is, that means having two adapters on a lens instead of one, so I would have twice the chance of back focus error. I suppose I could buy both and see which maintain best parfocality with the Nikon zooms I have, and return the other. B&H in New York is very good about returns within 30 days. Will keep this in mind.
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