Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  1. Thats a great line! OK, using the X-T3 without a lot of fiddling with settings...its not as bad as it sounds. Here's a way to grab the camera and start shooting quickly with manual exposure & focus to avoid stepping/hunting: Ahead of time, have the Shutter speed set at 1/60 (for 60p), the auto focus lever at S, the Fuji lens at A (auto), and ISO set at A (auto). Turn on camera, compose shot, hit AE-L button on camera back with thumb (locks exposure), press shutter button to start recording (does a quick one-time auto focus). So that is just two quick button presses. The camera sets the aperture and ISO and focus once and then doesn't change it during the rest of the shot. Outdoors, the depth of field is deep enough to keep a reasonable distance in focus since you typically end up with a F stop over f11. What you can't do is zoom up, the lens loses its original focus point and your depth of field disappears. Indoors, in low light the auto focus C, continous, should actually work better than outdoors. From the postings I've seen, people report the hunting problem develops mostly above f8. I use my widest angle lenses indoors for depth of field without auto focus. (I have the 18-55 kit lens, and the 10-24mm wide zoom which I love). Hopefully, this auto focus hunting will be fixed in the next firmware uptdate and this will be old news.
  2. I know most of the people posting here do this for a living and 30p is probably the standard. I do this because I love it, and have a family with two teenagers that give me a run & gun challenge all the time. But now that I've seen 4k60 versus 4k30 with the X-T3, I won't go with less than 4k60. And Canon, Nikon, and Sony don't have it for anywheres near the Fuji's price. The Panasonic GH5 is close, and the Pocket Cinema camera is just too specialized. This will change in the near future of course. I'm waiting to see what the Fuji X-H2 will do.
  3. Do you set one exposure before shooting and stick to it through the shot? Or do you manually adjust exposure while you are shooting? I'm often moving around a scene with drastically different light levels. Changing aperture or ISO during shooting is visible as ugly jumping steps, and that's fine if you can cut the shot in two and remove it. Otherwise moving from a dark area to bright one, in a continous shot, needs a smooth auto or manual exposure adjustment. With the X-T3 I stick to one exposure. So sometimes I do a gradual brightness adjustment in Final Cut Pro, a "video animation" with keyframes that you set manually so it changes smoothly over time. But this is extra work and can degrade the video quality, so I avoid drastic light level changes within shots. This is not necessary with camcorders. I havn't used the Panasonic G5, does that do smooth auto exposure? (At the time I bought the Fuji, the Panasonic with a zoom lens was an extra $1000, but now it has come down.) I'm talking 4K 60p here.
  4. YES! After using camcorders from Sony & Canon for the last 25 years, switching to the X-T3 for video was a bit of a shock. I liked the colors in my Canon Vixia from 2012, and if you are happy with 1080 60p there is quite a few camcorders from $200 to $800 to use in those situations. They have smaller sensors whose deeper depth of field reduces visible focus hunting, smooth auto exposure, good image stabilization, have 20:1 (!) optical POWERED ZOOM that stay in focus (X-t3 kit zoom 3:1 not powered, not parfocal, exposure stepping. Even the $3,000 cinema zoom is only 3:1, no auto focus, no power zoom). And they can fit in a big pocket. Checking B&H I see the Canon G21 is on sale till Oct 31. If I didn't have a camcorder already I'd consider that for family run & gun.
  5. ISO stepping is still there on the X-T3. It is my #1 major problem with this camera, I saw it within a minute of powering up my new camera and almost decided to return it there and then. I don't understand why I don't see online reviews complaining about this. So why didn't I return it? I wanted: 1) 4K 60p Video and 2) beautiful 6K stills and 3) interchangeable lenses and 4) built-in time lapse & slow motion. And the video quality on this is just so incredible. The other 4K60 camera alternatives are too expensive, or had other problems that I don't want to work around. And I don't use 24p or 30p. So I use manual exposure for video. I just got used to it. FUJI, HERE'S MY 2 CENT SOLUTION: If Fuji doubled the ISO stepping to 6 or 8 or more steps per stop for video, it would become small enough to be acceptable. (Firmware Update?) I don't need auto aperture (I have a lot of 70's & 80's glass & adapters), and I won't use auto shutter speed for video. About other opinions: I've seen a youtube where the contrast in the video was set very low, and the stepping was not obvious. I like decent contrast in my videos. #2 major problem: occasional auto focus hunting, so I use manual focus. I'm used to manual focus, I started with Bolex 16mm, and a Canon 35mm SLR. (#3 problem: no IBIS. My usual solution: software stabilization in Final Cut Pro or Premiere. To smooth most handheld motion, Just click the stabilization box. Its magic.) Despite the above, for the past year my X-T3 has been a blast and inspired me to all sorts of new video experimentation. It's just so cool.
  6. I'm happy to report the "crushed blacks" problem with X-T3 H265 files on 2018 Mac Mini (with T2) has been fixed in OSX Catalina. I am back to editing HEVC from X-T3 natively in Final Cut Pro. I am using a stock Mac Mini i5 with only 8GB memory and get smooth playback with the viewer set to "better performance". In Catalina the scopes show the lowest black levels being set at Zero IRE or above, whereas in Mojave the blacks were actually going down to about -10 IRE and but getting cut off at Zero IRE. (This was only a problem on Macs with T2 chip?) No need to transcode to ProRes and reset the black levels manually anymore!
  7. PROBLEM SOLVED IN OSX CATALINA I had this problem with the 2018 Mac Mini and OSX Mojave. Fuji's HEVC "full range" was being read as "legal range" which cut off the lower blacks and highest whites, even in Quicktime player as well as Final Cut Pro. Video scopes in Final Cut showed waveforms getting cut off at zero level which actually were going down to about -70 ... crushed blacks. Just installed the new OSX Catalina and the problem is gone! Video scopes show all black levels now being set at zero and above without clipping. X-T3 video looks beautiful. I am back to editing the 4k 60p 10bit HEVC files from the X-T3 natively without needing to transcode to anything else. I get smooth playback with the viewing set to "better performance". I am using a stock Mac Mini i5 and so far only 8GB memory has been no problem (running only Final Cut). What a relief!
  • Create New...