NX1user

Have you installed either of the bitrate hacks for the NX1? You can do a lot with the footage in post because of the high bitrate. Check out:
https://vimeo.com/kidzrevil
He's got a ton of higher bitrate NX1 footage posted. He uses filmconvert which gets rid of that digital look you're talking about. He posts a lot on this forum.
I just got film convert myself and it really helps make the NX1 image look more pleasing. (nothing I can share yet though).
 

Ha! That is true. The people that have been looking were all people who shoot daily and have used a lot of different cameras. They could care less about it being a dead system, they want it for what it can do today because that's when they are shooting. They also aren't using any Samsung lenses, so that's not an issue either.

Other sets of eyes is always good.  My other recommendation is to add time to whatever your doing.  That is, try to finish ahead of your deadline as best you can, and let the work cool down for a while (longer is better) then re-visit it with fresh eyes to spot the things that need correcting.  This is not always realistic or practical in real-world situations, but even  couple days away from the material can give enough distance to come back with a more objective eye.
Not at all.  (or, if it is, I've got it too)

I just bought film convert today (student discount!) and asked about the NX1 profile. They said they are about halfway done. No release date yet though.

I just bought film convert today (student discount!) and asked about the NX1 profile. They said they are about halfway done. No release date yet though.

Hi everyone,
I've received a lot of requests for epic sounding tracks, so I'm working on some to hopefully release next week.
In the meantime, here are this week's new free tracks:
"Quirky Puzzle Game Menu" (on the Looping Music Page)
"And the Machines Came at Midnight" (on the Looping Music Page)
"Future RPG" (on the Looping Music Page)
http://soundimage.org/looping-music/
Daily updates, as always, are here:
https://twitter.com/EricMatyas
https://www.facebook.com/soundimage.org
Have a great week!
Eric

I'm experiencing the opposite. People that are seeing what my NX1 can do (especially after the bitrate hack)  are now seeking them out but can't find them.

I'm experiencing the opposite. People that are seeing what my NX1 can do (especially after the bitrate hack)  are now seeking them out but can't find them.

I'm experiencing the opposite. People that are seeing what my NX1 can do (especially after the bitrate hack)  are now seeking them out but can't find them.

So my original plan here was to use the sunlight from the window as a key, and the 120t as a fill. Unfortunately it started raining so I had to use the 120t as the key, and use a white board as the fill bounce. It's really bright and definitely needs some diffusion with faces b/c of the hard shadows. My favorite 2 things are the dimmer and the running temperature. It runs cool the whole time and you can pick it up to store as soon as you shut it off. Hopefully the daylight version will be out soon!
 

Just got my 120t. Definitely brighter that the LS1. Shooting with it this Thursday and will post some pics.

I have the 16-50 S and 16-50 PZ lenses. The S lens stays in manual mode, so it is possible for this to happen. It is very annoying on the PZ to have to keep switching it.

I have the 16-50 S and 16-50 PZ lenses. The S lens stays in manual mode, so it is possible for this to happen. It is very annoying on the PZ to have to keep switching it.

I have the 16-50 S and 16-50 PZ lenses. The S lens stays in manual mode, so it is possible for this to happen. It is very annoying on the PZ to have to keep switching it.

I have the 16-50 S and 16-50 PZ lenses. The S lens stays in manual mode, so it is possible for this to happen. It is very annoying on the PZ to have to keep switching it.

I from the other side just consider getting the 16-50S and/or the 50-150. I am reconsidering my options very dynamicaly (almost real time!) and I do not see anything better with similar, or slightly more cost, than a NX1+16-50S combo. The practicallity of this, is just priceless. IBIS is the only thing missing, but the NX1 is perfect size/weight wise, for the most image stabilizers (e.g Ronin), and I do not see any APS-C camera surprass it anytime soon, and when it will, it won't be cheap (including glass), so I huess I am good for at least a couple more years, which is a lifetime for equipment of this sort.
Together with the NX500, is just a perfect combo for 4K low budget jobs, and if I want run and gun 1080p, I go C100mkII.

Thanks for making theses available!

My review, mainly sample footage:
 
 

Im not going to continue the conversation stating info on what I find. Kernel is irrelevant in this situation. Look up how tizen loads and how the srp works.
If there are relevant updates I will post, Im not going to comment on things to which people seem to just want to troll. Google is a friend use it.

It was just a cheap Dolica monopod (that's why you can see it bending!)
About the invert mode, I know I've seen a couple of videos where the gimbal is just flipped while it is still on, but those videos didn't show the camera view. I haven't tried it (I don't have the DS1 with me at the moment), but I'll try it and see what happens. 

Can't wait for the 1mm f/0.05 lens 

The Video IS feature wasn't available when he shot this (I'm pretty sure).
That's correct. I just read the post on dvxuser where he mentions that.

That's exactly what a waveform tells you, except that it tells you exactly where the exposure is sitting, with much more detail and accuracy than a 3 or 5 step False Colour. I will say I tend to use False Colour more as a quick reference/check, but Waveform is important and I use it a lot in digital (obviously neither are of any use in film).
My recommendation would be to at least buy a light meter, and then use at least one of either False Colour or Waveform - preferably both.
The hard part about using neither is you have to put a lot of faith in what your monitor is telling you and unless you've calibrated it yourself, you can't really do that. Also, using a combination of the above three (false colour, waveform, light meter) you have an exact idea of where your exposure is sitting. Without that, you won't know. You might be able to get some kind of idea of where your skin is sitting if you set your zebras correctly, but it's far from ideal.

I recently got the VS-2 Fine HD for my Samsung NX1. Since your G7 is also a 4K camera, you may find that using focus peaking on external monitors is inaccurate. The VS-2 Fine HD is 1920x1200 resolution and seems to be about as accurate as the focus peaking on my camera. 
But to answer your question, the VS-2 FineHD has false color which makes getting proper exposure quick and easy. If yo don't need recording, get a good monitor instead and spend that money you saved on lights.
A quick explanation of false color: 
 

Try mplayerx for mac.