BrorSvensson

Andrew thanks for the text. I think about slow mo. Can You upload on vimeo a few videos to download ? I saw in a few movies about a7s that slow mo has a big bump of noise. How is Your fell about it ? Can You record video with high iso in slow mo ? Are You sure that is 2.2 crop ? Is so big  wide angle is hard in this mode. Thanks !

Just did a long 4K recording run to test for overheating. Inconclusive as the battery died at 28mins
Will try again tonight.

Yes you have to take into consideration that it was chris (the photo guy) who shot the part where they talked about video, he probably do not know how to expose correctly for slog3. I would have liked to seen some ungraded samples.

Yes you have to take into consideration that it was chris (the photo guy) who shot the part where they talked about video, he probably do not know how to expose correctly for slog3. I would have liked to seen some ungraded samples.

Apparently the 1080p 120fps is a 2.2x (!) crop, really really dissapointed in that. I was hoping for some rx10/100 level slow mo in this thing. Lets hope the quality is atleast decent.

It came in stock in Sweden today. Not for me but a heads up to other swedes here.

I've personally given up on variable nd, the uncontrollable polarization and the wierd color cast is just not worth it. Get some fixed nd filters from hoya and those magnetic filter adapters (cant remember what they are called) and you have a very fast and conisistent setup.

i had the opteka, its not a very sharp lens at all. I would recommend the nikkor 85mm f2.0 ai, its a very nice and sharp lens for not so much money.

i had the opteka, its not a very sharp lens at all. I would recommend the nikkor 85mm f2.0 ai, its a very nice and sharp lens for not so much money.

Sorry, my mistake.  Transcoding 60p to 24p looks fine (just tried it).  I think I had been doing some 30p --> 24p transcoding before which generated a bunch of artifacts.  Thanks, and sorry for the confusion.

Well the thread title states Speed Booster and Tarantino Crash zooms. If you look at that video again you will see that most go around 60-250mm (s35)

I'm 99% sure that the 70-200 f/2.8 Non-IS is parfocal, i used to have one back when i shot canon. Tarantinos crash zoom often end with a very long focal length so 200mm (300mm FF equiv.) will be perfect for what you are doing.

Thanks for your comment!
OK - I see. I use a heavy tripod and no camera movement at all as the lens I am using is a Canon 800mm f5.6.
There is a bit of motion but nothing too drastic. I guess I need to consider what is worse - to have to push the exposure in post and get noise or risk some motion blur.
Thanks again,
Ofer
 

In sweden most news camera men where sacked and replaced by tripods 10 years ago.

they are not rumors, the overheating problem is true.

buy a 50d for very around 150 bucks on ebay and play around with the raw workflow, if you like it get the 5d mark 3 and shoot full hd raw with it.

That's what I like about it. That retro look is the aesthetic that I think lower budget digital video does best, or most attainable. 

buy a 50d for very around 150 bucks on ebay and play around with the raw workflow, if you like it get the 5d mark 3 and shoot full hd raw with it.

buy a 50d for very around 150 bucks on ebay and play around with the raw workflow, if you like it get the 5d mark 3 and shoot full hd raw with it.

buy a 50d for very around 150 bucks on ebay and play around with the raw workflow, if you like it get the 5d mark 3 and shoot full hd raw with it.

Yes it has it but its not 4k, only 1080p

I am pretty sure that A7 does output 60p. 

Also from their advertising:
"Capture Full 1920 x 1080 HD uncompressed clean-screen video files with external recording devices via an HDMI connection in 60p and 60i frame rates. Selectable in-camera AVCHD codec frame rates include super-smooth 60p, standard 60i or cinematic 24p, while MP4 codec is also available for smaller files for easier upload to the web." 
 

Sounds like you want an FS5

Since that drone MFT camera can do 4k raw i have a strong feeling that panasonic will fight back and probably bring that to their next GH-camera

Best results come by using it on individual clips, sometimes adjusting blur amount to avoid ugly artifacts. Generally though, it is an easy way to get motion blur back into high shutter footage. I often shoot handheld DSLR with higher shutter on purpose, so that Warp stabilizer has crisp frames to work from - giving better/ smoother results. Then I run a pass on each clip with the Reelsmart motion blur effect to get the 1/50th motion blur back.
Works very well, worth the extra time if you need everything to look as good as it can.