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Tim Sewell

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Posts posted by Tim Sewell

  1. I have an Olympus EM1 mkii that produces nice, stabilised 4K, but for video I've barely picked it up since I got my bargain-basement OG C100. The C100 still produces lovely organic-looking HD and coupled with a Ninja 2 (GBP200 off eBay) it's reasonably gradeable as well. My aim - as a hobbyist/would-be artist - has always been to create work that has that filmic quality we love and that aim is often in opposition to the ultra-sharp, high resolution video more modern systems generate. I have to do far more post work on my Oly video to get the look I want than I do to the Canon stuff.

     

    So I think you're correct, in one sense, @kye, although I don't know how much your proposition would hold true to people who are earning their living producing video for clients who, naturally, will generally want the 'best' they can get.

  2. On 7/26/2020 at 3:04 AM, kye said:

    Wouldn't the C100 be Canon Colour Gamut and Canon Log (as opposed to C-Log 2 or 3)?  That's what I was using when processing XC10 footage from C-Log.

    Essentially then you'd be converting from Canon Colour Gamut / Canon Log to Rec.709 / Rec.709 for delivering standard DR, and Canon Colour Gamut / Canon Log to Rec.2020 / Rec.2020 for delivering HDR.

    After the conversion you'd then be grading the image to get the look you want before exporting.

    Thanks for the pointer - I'll check that out!

  3. I should have kept up with this stuff, but I haven't, so I'm hoping for some pointers from the EOSHD hivemind. I've been shooting in OG Canon log on the C100 mk1, lately into ProRes 422HQ on a Ninja 2. I bring my files into FCPX and, when I drop Color Finale onto the clip, one of the options it gives me is to set the output target. If I set that to Rec2020 the image, as I'd expect of a wider gamut (am I right in thinking that's one of that standard's features?) looks much livelier. But what happens when I export that, in that, on my screen the exported file looks great, but if someone were to watch that on a TV, say, would it then look awful? Also, I have a bunch of film-look LUTs that take either log or 709 as input, but I can't find (at least, not with the same ease) similar collections of 2020 film look LUTs - am I missing the point, or is it a matter of the order in which I set these things?

    Help!

    Confused of Hove

  4. 8 hours ago, amsh89es335 said:

    Also lets not forget they promised global shutter on the Ursa Mini 4.6k and took preorders and then when they arrived the Global shutter mode was a lie and was taken away, HDMI out was taken away, and also accelerometers for VFX was no where to be seen.  I bet what they announced today some of the feature will disappear. Like 12k 60p and 8K 110 fps.  Or even 12k. They might be 12k sensor sampled to 8k or 6k. 

    Feel your pain, but the cameras are already built - following a CML email thread I saw that John Brawley received his factory-built, final firmware unit yesterday.

  5. As an update I've decided to build a set from the Super Takumars and sell the Rokkors I've bought so far. The Rokkors have a lovely build quality, but it seems they don't have an option of a nice sharp 35mm - I got two different versions and both were unacceptable soft. The Taks, on the other hand, are beautifully built and render amazingly nicely. So far I've go the 28, 35, 50 1.4, 85 1.8 and 135 2.5 in my sweaty hands and am awaiting delivery of the 20 4.5 and the 200 4. Now I have to re-line one of my hard cases for them and set about getting focus gears made. I'm in 2 minds over de-clicking. A couple of these weren't cheap and I worry that de-clicking might hammer their resale value if I ever have to rake some funds back. Does anyone have any experience of that?

    As soon as those last 2 arrive I'll shoot a test of all lenses on the same subject for the delectation of EOSHD members.

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