Marcio Kabke Pinheiro

Yeap, this Cullmann would be a good solution for the gimbal - in fact, the one that I had looked like a lot this other Cullmann. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/511754-REG/Cullmann_CU_40440_Medium_Quick_Release_Assembly.html But afaik the plates only work with their plates, no? Still have the solution to remove the strap to put the camera in the gimbal - I use PD anchors too, but releasing both anchors to remove the strap is time consuming too.

Dunno how many here use the cameras in a hybrid way (stills + video), having to switch modes frequently, but could be a good topic to discuss. My case: when (I could go back to) travelling, generally use one cam to shoot stills and video. And, for video, frequently want to put it fast in a small gimbal, take the shot, and remove it again to come back to stills. Of course, this means having a quick release in the gimbal and a plate in the camera. Long ago I settled with Arca plates - currently, besides some generic plates and clamps for tripod work, In trips I use a Peak Design Standart Plate (https://www.peakdesign.com/collections/clips/products/standard-plate-v3) on the camera: small and still compatible with Arca (kind of, no secure pins for example). In my gimbal, in the last trip, used a very small arca clamp, like this one (https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Release-Compatible-Arca-Swiss-Included/dp/B07NB2RSFZ/ref=sr_1_27?dchild=1&keywords=small+arca+clamp&qid=1632921831&sr=8-27). It worked, but putting the camera on the gimbal involved: - Putting the camera on the clamp; - Align precisely the camera in the clamp in a previously balanced position; - Tight the clamp knob; - Take the shot; - Untight the clamp knob; - Remove the camera. Once I had a drop-in clamp for a Manfrotto-ish plate in a tripod that would work much better: just drop the camera in the clamp, the plate have the same format as the clamp chamber (no alignment needed), lock fast with a lever, and to remove just open it with the lever and take the camera out. But in my last trip, did not found anything like it for Arca. Today I've saw that Pgytech released a solution that is exactly that: https://www.pgytech.com/products/snaplock-plate-adapter. A small Arca plate (that looks like very similar to the PD one), and a autolock plate. Just drop the camera in there (with the quick release on the gimbal), take the shot, press the button and remove. And that Ulanzi have a system that solves the other part of the question - removing the camera from the neck strap (where I have the camera for stills) to put it on the gimbal - https://www.ulanzi.com/collections/quick-release-system/products/falcam-f38-quick-release-camera-strap-clip. Put this on the neck strap, press to remove the camera from the clip, put it on the gimbal, take the shot, return the camera to this one, move one. Just one caveat - the plates from both systems looks like that have the same dimensions, BUT maybe they are not compatible (the plates for both do not fit in Peak Design clips, for example). The Pgytech have the gimbal solution, Ulanzi have the strap solution, but don't know if their plates are compatible. Anyone used any of these sytems, or know some similar system? (the most important solution for me is the gimbal part, have to be like the Pgytech clamp).

Second that, amazing colors. Do you remember what hack you was running in this one, @Andrew Reid? Still have my GH2 here, when I have time to use my cameras again, want to try it again.

Already saw a manufacturer (don't remember which) that used the "Hybrid AF", using PDAF in the initial stages to know what direction to go, and using CDAF in the final stages for precision (was Sony?). Maybe this will be the "way out" for Panasonic - "we are using PDAF and DFD combined".

Will mention just that - the Olympus XA. Have one and love it, genius touches sparkled everywhere - the clamshell mechanism (that doubles as lens cover and on/off switch), the insanely light shutter button, very good and compact lens, the size. Was more amazed by it than from my newer digtal cameras. If OM Digital have the idea to make a digital version (once I made a post in other forum saying how it could be done), probably would sell boatloads. Never will happen, though.

Still not tested the custom modes in my X-S10, but lots of people already said that the Custom modes only works for stills there. The X-S10 does not have a dedicated stills/video switch, like the X-T4 - both the movie mode and custom modes are in the PASM dial; hence, in theory you could not have separate stills and video custom modes. Will try to test it - could be some kind of collective error; lots of people still says that the X-S10 left dial could only be used to change the fim simulations, and it is not true (the menu layout makes it looks like it is the case, but you can assign lots of functions to the dial).

Just remembering that the dial custom modes on the X-S10 just work for stills, not for video.

Dunno how various ToF implementations works, but AFAIK ToF only can do a spot-target AF like mode (our @BTM_Pix could probably enlighten us about this).

Remember that our @John Brawley made very interesting articles about the camera (and very good footage) when it was released. https://johnbrawley.wordpress.com/

Interview with Panasonic. https://www.cined.com/panasonic-lumix-discussed-an-interview-with-yosuke-yamane-san-about-the-gh5-ii-gh6-and-more/ Like the impression that I've got in the Andrew's inteview with him, looks like no PDAF in the GH6. "Of course, we have received various opinions from our customers, and we recognize that image-plane phase-detection AF is superior in terms of subject tracking. On the other hand, as represented by deep learning, we are improving AF performance by strengthening algorithms that utilize the video signal processing technology which we are good at. We are currently developing the next-generation system with the aim of making it even more practical, so please wait until the day we can provide it."

Camera companies are some of the most proeminent haters of open standards that I know.

https://www.fujirumors.com/teac-announces-development-of-tascam-xlr-audio-adapter-for-fujifilm-mirrorless-cameras/ Anyone was aware that some Fujifilm models had a hotshoe with a digital interface?

With AF out of equation, consider the Panasonic GX85 - very cheap used or even new (I prefer the GX9, but not the best for wide shots).

Because chipsets for ILCs are ages behind the tech embedded in smatphones processors. And will stay that way - because chip design and manufacture are very expensive things, and even the worst phone sells in much higher numbers than any camera.

From what I got from the interview, and the "I need the FULL FRAME LOOK" craze, forget internal NDs on the GH6 - it will make the camera bigger, and in this case almost everyone will say "the only m43 advantage is being mobile and compact, this bigger body is shit".

Interview with Panasonic: https://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2021/07/21/panasonic-qa-interview-with-yosuke-yamane-head-of-lumix Interesting info about the GH5II and a little about the GH6 - but considering how much time is spent in the interview about DFD, maybe is not a good sign to a move to PDAF.

Dunno how it is working in L Mount (in fact, never saw any statement from Panasonic), but in m43 DFD only works with Panasonic native glass - even with Olympus lenses, DFD don't work and the camera falls back to traditional CDAF autofocus. For sure DFD is not working in your case.

Maybe because it is a use case that is not important to him (this is not a endorsment to Richard). I'm an amateur and use my cameras as hybrids, but never used aperture priority mode in video (will try, indeed); your use case for aperture priority in video (get sudden moments that appears) is very valid, but for me (until now, this could change) is a non-issue. Some things that are glaring faults for me probably are non-issues for others. For example, in my transition from m43 to Fuji, the thing that I'm hating most is that when you change the ISO, a full screen overlay enters (as in a lot of Fuji changing settings screens) and the only info that appears is the ISO number. You don't have EV metering and, most important, the histogram on screen to adjust the ISO until the highlights are not blown (ok, zebras appears); but why the change could not be as aperture / shutter changes, only the value change in the full info screen? For me is a big hassle, and saw zero references of it in all Fuji reviews that I've saw. Probably is not an issue for other people. And all reviews could have these kinds of personal bias.

For Fuji, maybe?

I think the camera is REALLY beautiful - in fact, the most attractive digital camera just after the Oly Pen-F. I like these "classic looking" models (Oly's OM, most of the Fuji's, Panasonic GXs) because most of the people think that you are using an old camera. More receptive in street shots, security don't bother with it in concerts. I was hoping that the X-E4 would have IBIS (and rear dial / focus mode switch), it would be the perfect camera for me. But Nikon don't have (and I bet that never will have) a strong APS-C lens lineup. And using FF Z lenses defeats all the purpose of this camera. The X-S10 trounces this camera in every regard, except for the looks. Will sell ok, I guess - with lifestyle and japanese people. But not much for everyone else.

100% reliable AF? Agree - does not exist, even with Sony, that arguably have the best video AF. AF is used in a lot in inadequate situations. Person static in front of a camera? Why AF? You don't even need to change the focus distance - use a S-AF to acquire focus or MF, and do not touch it more. That's why in my last sentence I used the word "reliablish" - not perfect, but realiable enough to give better results than manual AF when you don't have a focus puller or the skill. Gimbal shots, sport action, etc. Or my use case as an amateur. Used m43 middle range cameras until recently, completely unreliable AF for video, hence always used MF for all. No problem in almost all cases (in fact, I love to manually focus lenses). Enter my 2 year old daughter - she never stops, and is almost impossible to focus reliably on her face. Now with the Fuji X-S10 using AF, it is much easier. 100% perfect? Far from it. But in almost 95% of the time, her face is in focus when running around the room - using MF, the focus rate was much worse (and with CDAF, almost unusable). I still think that are use cases that an ok AF system will give better (not perfect) results than a not very skilled MF operator (solo or dedicated). And you still have the option to revert to MF.

In my point of view, I don't know why the AF discussion have to be so binary. Never use AF x always use AF. Manual focus with a good focus puller will always be preferred in professional cinema. It is a well trained skill from the professional focus pullers, it is cheaper to pay a focus puller (considering all the other costs involved) that have to reshoot constantly because of an unexpected AF behaviour, and it offers somre focus creative choices that you could not have (or that would be difficult to reproduce) with an AF system. AF is very useful in solo shots, low budget productions, solo vlogging, or when you don't have or can't pay a focus puller. Or when your production don't have very critical focus nailing needs. Both are more or less adequate depending on your budget / needs. Hence Alexas don't have AF; and hence solo / action /vlogger shooters wants good AF. Different situations, different needs. But with hybrid cameras, that generally are used in lower budget scenarios, AF tends to cover more use cases. And if you have good AF, you can still use MF - the reverse, not. That why Panasonic needs a good and reliablish AF system. Arri not.

Viltrox constantly releases firmware updates, with big improvements. Be sure to check in their site.

This Fuji colorspace problem occurs in Resolve too? (including the 8-bit files that the X-S10 prodeuces)

I've heard exactly the opposite - hence I got the 35 and 50 Fujicrons...but did not had time to test them properly already.