Emanuel

One of these days this community should just team up and send every new game-changer straight to @kye ; ) You’re priceless, mate :- )

Well, that was fun.  New phone has new colour space which requires updating Resolve which wouldn't install and required me to update MacOS.  Recording and then viewing the first clip took a lot longer than anticipated.
Here's some initial observations as I find my bearings.
Resolve 20.2 only has Apple Log 2 in the Colour Space, and only has Apple Log in the Gamma.


If we assume that BM and Apply both know what they're doing then that means that Apple Log 2 gets a new colour space but keeps the same gamma curve, and iPhone 15 and 16 users get an upgrade to Apple Log 2.
In the default camera app you only get Log and HDR (whatever that is) in Prores mode.  Not entirely sure what Prores flavour it is, but I'd guess HQ because the fine print in the settings to enable it says 1 minute of 4K 30p is 6GB which is 800Mbps (and would be 640Mbps for 24p) which is sightly lower than the 700 typically stated, but is definitely higher than the 471Mbps typically stated for 4K 24p Prores 422.

If you select Prores and Log, the image displayed is the log image..  no display conversion for you!
BM camera app gives tonnes more options.  I'll have to investigate that further, but last time I looked it seemed to only offer manual shooting, rather than the auto-everything that I need when shooting fast.

Lets acknowledge that ProResRAW is a shitty codec.

Beautiful : ) Hard to believe that’s from a phone! How tricky is it to stabilize that kind of footage without in-camera help? What tool are you using exactly?

And here are the raw clips if anyone would like to play around with them https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/17juUhffdIAEu5NJIAvD01zwfPock_mjO?usp=sharing

The phone arrived today as expected and I've had a few minutes to play around with the camera. I shot a short test scene using ProRes RAW and ProRes 422 in the Blackmagic app. Here's a quick look at the footage with just Resolve's Apple Log 2 CST applied. Very first observations:
 
Open gate is only available in RAW or RAW HQ RAW can only recorded to an external drive. I have a great Magsafe SSD that I use for this. Sensor stabilization is not available in either raw mode Resolve is super sluggish with the raw files unlike ProRes RAW or BRAW files from my S1ii. I hope this gets optimized The normal raw controls are there and the footage is very flexible as you'd expect I used Resolve's built in Apple Log 2 CST for the test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97PPh276M4o

Me too here, very likely. For the first time. Windows and Android user, so far.
There's external SSD recording, and they're pretty on the nano side these days, so the 256GB version is enough.

+7 focal length options:
13mm
24mm
28mm
35mm
48mm
100mm
200mm
(+ macro)
 
+many other goodies...
 
Among them, genlock... via the new Blackmagic Camera ProDock (Hello 3D! Not only though... for sure) for US$295 (next time, it will come as giveaway, very likely, what else? ; )
Simply WOW
etc.
 
https://www.apple.com/iphone-17-pro/
https://www.apple.com/iphone-17-pro/specs/
https://www.apple.com/newsroom/2025/09/apple-unveils-iphone-17-pro-and-iphone-17-pro-max/
https://www.apple.com/newsroom/2025/09/apple-announces-final-cut-camera-2-0/
 
Nobody is talking about TBH if this isn't a game changer, I have no idea what this means anymore... : ) Where's that Coppola's little fat girl in Ohio?
 

BM camera app will allow you to shoot Apple log in h.265 with very good quality. Saves soooo much space and looks great.

I am; should be delivered tomorrow. Main reason is it's my normal upgrade cycle time. But, even if it was a year early for me I'd still be compelled to buy it. I've been using my phone for critical pick up shots for a while now and the addition of ProRes RAW makes it even more useful for me this way. The 200mm equivalent telephoto also will be great for casual concert and event photography so I'm pretty happy all around. 

+7 focal length options:
13mm
24mm
28mm
35mm
48mm
100mm
200mm
(+ macro)
 
+many other goodies...
 
Among them, genlock... via the new Blackmagic Camera ProDock (Hello 3D! Not only though... for sure) for US$295 (next time, it will come as giveaway, very likely, what else? ; )
Simply WOW
etc.
 
https://www.apple.com/iphone-17-pro/
https://www.apple.com/iphone-17-pro/specs/
https://www.apple.com/newsroom/2025/09/apple-unveils-iphone-17-pro-and-iphone-17-pro-max/
https://www.apple.com/newsroom/2025/09/apple-announces-final-cut-camera-2-0/
 
Nobody is talking about TBH if this isn't a game changer, I have no idea what this means anymore... : ) Where's that Coppola's little fat girl in Ohio?
 

ProRes RAW...
https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/media/release/20250910-02

Newsshooter is there and brings these exciting news:
https://www.newsshooter.com/2025/09/13/viltrox-nexus-pl-to-e-pro-adapter-that-enables-full-af-capabilities-when-using-pl-mount-cine-lenses/
Comes by 4Q 2025 in the end of the year...

ProRes RAW...
https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/media/release/20250910-02

Newsshooter is there and brings these exciting news:
https://www.newsshooter.com/2025/09/13/viltrox-nexus-pl-to-e-pro-adapter-that-enables-full-af-capabilities-when-using-pl-mount-cine-lenses/
Comes by 4Q 2025 in the end of the year...

Context matters in film production.  You have more context.  What you possess through experience is an asset.  --Might be a minor asset that doesn't really matter much, but it's certainly not a liability.

A 2.36mp EVF and a fixed LCD in a $5100 camera. Oh boy.

!

Liked the lens, probably will get that in the future.

Probably the casualties on my side will be the two Nocticrons, the 35mm and 50mm. Lovely and cute little lenses, but I almost do not use them - this year I probably only used the 18-50mm f/2.8 zoom and the Viltrox 75mm 1.2.

Except for the price... ; )
AF @ 100/120fps and...
 
I don't agree at all when reviewer hints MFT is more flexible as far as glass options when you can put them directly to FX30 via MFT -> E-mount adapter but not the opposite.
How many cool manual lenses you can have at your disposal?
 
Unique control along with PZ lenses for tracking shots from several speeds, only to mention a single advantage.
Clear Image Zoom another one.
 
When people like this scriba here are used to buy the most spread lens mount option to fit the more number of different cameras as much as possible, this is also something to have in mind such as the Megadap ETZ21 adapter to couple E-mount lenses to diversify the setup towards those new Nikon camera releases without losing AF capability.
 
Other than that, better IBIS, higher resolution 5.7K @50fps and open gate recording are neat GH7 advantages.
 
That said, first contact with this guy. Loved the way he gradually answered my questions at same time I was following his clean input as every reviewer should try the best for. In my bookmarks from now on.
 
- EAG
 

Equivalent to 3.2K to be more precise :- )

**Haven't been active a while but have been lurking often, just not posting.  Hoping to get back to posting much much more regularly now and actually being involved in this awesome community.  Hope everyone is doing great and making awesome art that plays in sequences of frames 😉
 
"_names_are_hard" from the magic lantern forum made a post yesterday announcing a new official development team; I am not 100% sure but seems as though this was not the case sine a1ex left a few years ago.  Obviously, awesome developments have still occurred in the mean time, such as the incredible work done to the EOS M, 5d Mark iii and more to sd overclock, implement new binning modes that provide more image detail and less moire, and enable excellent previews in modes that previously rendered almost unusable to monitor.
 
Now an official development team is back, and their aim, according to the post, is to implement features into main builds; finally we do not need to dig through forum posts anymore lol...
What is even more exciting is the announcement of great improvements towards Digic 6 and Digic 7 cameras.  The Canon 200d/SL2 has an OFFICIAL build with WORKING RAW VIDEO.  This excites me, as supposedly this camera has an entire stop better dynamic range at ISO 200 than the 5d mark iii does...and DPAF to boot.  Makes me want to get one just to play around with and rig into a poor man's interview b-cam for my Nikon Z6.  The 7d mark ii, 6d mark ii and 750d/t6i also have official builds, though more work needs to be done to implement RAW video.  Still, even this is exciting news, because it looks like a point will be reached in which the aforementioned cameras all have stable RAW video.  Man...the 6d Mark II is gonna become absolutely killer and I believe might overtake the legendary 5d mark iii as the ML king...why?  Full-frame AND Dual Pixel Autofocus.  So exciting.
 
Imagine if they progress on the EOS R and we get RAW video on that...we shall see.
 
Anyways, wanted to share as I think it is exciting that the ML community is getting active again.  Although I have never personally owned a ML camera, it has always fascinated me and I want to pick up a ML-compatible Canon body, even if it's the dirt-cheap Canon 50d that makes it possible to shoot continuous 14-bit RAW video for only $86 US on ebay haha.
 
Exciting times.  Screw modern camera releases.  My 7 year old Nikon Z6 is still alive and kicking.  And these old cameras are about to become beasts.  And to me 5d mark ii/5d mark iii/eos m crop mood stuff looks just as good as your youtube shill Sony FX2 bs anyways lol...
 
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=27315.0
 
Also here's the dirt cheap Canon 50d...I might buy one.   Literally the cheapest half decent ML RAW cam in existence:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/326652260011?_skw=canon+50d&epid=100134403&itmmeta=01JYD74BEKB8BK43GTP64YXEYE&hash=item4c0dfdeeab:g:zH4AAeSwaqVoO8fg&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dPuUUXNiquWqTtYdpH3VhCftZqA2312R5f5VSKqv6B737uadt8L7po3UhjQmLj7p22fLaKrov1%2FdF7%2FPis094b98Wz%2FnMbwS7WtRhqTqfyUhYZCMMmhc9OdIad%2FLodvcJXSllJYh90xsUWRTm7vGW5QqKQBbevi0jxouClCZ%2Fbk6QKRNa9LTJsvkdX56eaU7F7IwVfBdZCHZOygCtMLm6H3MlF0YovoZEHjhhYqNq10jPFnlPCjhOBrGydgfrK%2BKuCTwN1sGX5Pb3KDZ5MpxcA|tkp%3ABk9SR7i3kafzZQ

There are no riots in Los Angeles.  Get your information from a real news source.

GX80/85 here too (they are the same camera, varies the geographic version, EU or US).
Just arrived from street back to my Lisbon base, 5 minutes ago, with one in hands... as casual shooter for covering this: https://www.portugal.com/activities-experiences/the-ultimate-guide-to-the-biggest-party-in-lisbon-santos-populares-and-santo-antonio-2024-edition/
+ FX30 with my new Sigma 16-300mm f/3.5-6.7 attached to 1.5x Clear Image Zoom and no complaints on ISO as far as low light concerns under street bulbs by night, go figure for 4K 25p always under ISO 1000;
+ Osmo Pocket 3 which didn't leave the case this time and it's one of my favs;
+ Insta360 One X2 in my shirt pocket, despite its terrible low light/night shooting performance other than my beloved Osmo, the same, never came out...
 
Its small form factor with the cheap kit 12-32mm f/3.5-5.6 lens makes it unique. Didn't even feel the need to use my Osmo, can you imagine?
And Panasonic batteries last and last... A single battery for all night long, two batteries for Sony.
 
Follow @kye's entry for everything else, it's for free and you have there more with him than whoever else here or anywhere out there ;- )

Congratulations on your purchase! 
I have the GX85, which apparently is very similar to the GX80, but you might notice small differences perhaps, so I guess maybe not everything I say below will apply to you.
I shoot run-n-gun fast-paced stuff so probably very similar to the challenges you are facing.  Here is how I setup and use my GX85.
This is the screen, showing lots of handy info.

Going from top right, here's what I do.
I use the custom modes to store different configurations.  In this case, it's in C3 and that is fully-manual.  You can't set the mode (ie, PASM) once you've created the custom mode, you need to create the custom mode with the right PASM mode.  To do this you choose the right PASM mode that you want to use using the top dial, then save that configuration to the custom mode with the "Cust Set Mem" function, and then you can change to that custom mode using the top dial and then further customise that custom mode.
I use the standard profile.  I've done lots of testing and the standard profile is the most flexible if you're going to further tweak the colours in post.  If not, feel free to choose whatever mode you like.
I use focus peaking and have set it to a custom button to switch between the high and low sensitivities.  I use this in combination with making the display black and white so the peaking is more visible.
No flash.
4k 24p.
I've setup back-button focus.  This means the camera is in MF mode, but I have configured the AE/AF Lock button to enable AF while you hold it down.  The way I shoot with an AF lens is to push in that button, see what it focuses on (which is obvious because of the peaking) and then I release the button, then I hit record.  This means that the focus doesn't change during the shot.  This means the focus isn't hunting around all over the place, it's not focusing on the persons hand or on the person that walks in between you and your subject, it doesn't focus on the background if they move in frame, etc.
It won't follow them if their focus distance changes, which can ruin some shots, but my experience is that AF jumping around ruins more shots than the subject moving does.  Plus, if the subject moves slightly the aesthetic of them being slightly out of focus for a bit is far less objectionable than the AF jumping around for no reason.
IBIS is enabled.
IBIS gets a lot of criticism but if you stand still and hold the camera as still as you can then the IBIS will simply help you to be more stable and the jitters and jello effects can be reduced entirely.  Shooting in fast situations means that tripods and monopods are often too slow and cumbersome, but if you try and emulate a tripod by using IBIS (or better yet, combine IBIS with OIS from a stabilised lens) then you can easily get very stable hand-held shots that with a tiny bit of stabilisation in post can be perfectly locked off without and artefacts at all.
I set my AF to be in the middle of the frame, which combined with back-button focus is really fast and usable.  Even if you do the photography thing of putting the subject in the middle, doing AF, then setting up your composition, it all works perfectly.
I expose using the histogram.
Exposure is a big topic, but I have done extensive testing and have concluded the following.  
In the Standard profile, you can do quite significant changes to exposure and WB in-post, even with simple tools, if you keep the exposure in the middle.  The limits are that if something is clipped then it's clipped (of course!) and if it's in the noise floor then it's also gone.  Apart from that, you have lots of flexibility.
Audio meters show the levels.  I use auto-levelling, but audio isn't really a big part of what I do and if you only shoot short clips like I do then any variation in level that it introduces isn't going to be much over a short clip, and it saves more shots by adjusting itself than it ruins.  You can always set it to manual if you like.
Aperture and shutter speed.  I always use 1/50s when I shoot manually.  Adjust as you see fit, depending on if you want to expose with shutter speed and not use a vND.  Personally, I find that not having the exposure going up and down randomly is a good thing, and adjusting the shutter speed with the dial is just as painful as adjusting a vND.  
If you're using a manual lens then you can just set the camera once, and then all your controls are on the lens (vND, aperture, focus) so that's a really nice way of working.  Lighting doesn't change that much, especially in daytime exteriors, so it's not a big deal.  I've swapped to a high quality 2-5 stop vND and it's got enough range for daytime if you're willing to stop down a bit during the brightest bits.  In busy outdoor situations you don't want to blur the crap out of the background anyway, so stopping down is actually more relevant than isolating subjects to the point where the shot could have been taken anywhere.
The exposure meter is sometimes useful, but it's dumb.  For example if you're shooting a person and a white van drives past in the background it thinks that you should change the exposure.  Obviously that's dumb because you're shooting the person and not the van.
ISO200 = base ISO.  This camera doesn't have great high-ISO, so stick to base ISO when you can.
WB = 5600K.  I shoot exclusively in this mode.  After using auto-WB for many years, I've come to realise that while different lights appear different with a fixed WB, things look like what they are.  During the day things look right, sunset looks very warm but looks right, fluorescent lights look green but that also looks right.  I rarely change WB in post now, and if I do it's to even out and tiny variations between shots just to polish the final video.
My final piece of advice is to get a native zoom lens.  Either the 12-35mm F2.8 or 14-140mm F3.5-5.6 are great, but the 14-42mm kit lens is also very capable and not to be underestimated.  In complex situations you are often restricted in where you can move to, and will often want to zoom in to control your compositions.  Having AF speeds up your shooting substantially, especially when you might only have seconds to get rolling when you see a moment about to happen.
Happy to discuss further if you have questions, and I recommend searching around here, I've been posting lots of stuff over the years, including lots of tests and sharing what I have learned.
Also happy to talk about strategies for shooting coverage, etc.
Once you buy the gear and learn the settings you can make a video.  It's what's in front of the camera and what's behind the camera that determine how good that video will be.