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Everything posted by au8ust

  1. Looking nice! What's the taking lens and camera?
  2. Group no longer available?
  3. There's a single focus version too, this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ab7KFtUFv8s Basically it's the 1.33x-40 compact with SLR Magic Rangefinder builtin, non-removable. Also, there are two version of each, the one with near/normal focus distance and the other one with feet scale (they call it Cine, if I recall). Optically they're the same, with just different distance marking and the one with feet scale costs more.
  4. Are you using the version without front vari-diopter? In that case, you need to double focus. Check this out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yneSk9wdJWw
  5. Don't rely on the focus scale on the lens, they are usually off. For 16-D dissemble, check https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYyK-HPo7_w
  6. Just check both taking lens and anamorphic lens. If they can focus at infinity with good sharpness, then there's nothing wrong with your lenses, probably.
  7. Try to verify the infinity focus first. Check this video https://www.cinesaga.com/courses/anamorphic-course/541614-chapter-7-putting-it-all-together/1605145-perfect-infinity-tuning If you can get sharp focus at infinity, then your scope is fine.
  8. The Isco Ultra Star should be a lot sharper. Maybe you got a bad copy that needed to be tuned up?
  9. What I usually do is to open the image in PS and stretch it down to 50% horizontally and the crop 50% top and bottom. That's it. Beware that with most anamorphic lenses, when you focus at the closest possible distance (ie. 2m), the squeezing factor maybe reduced to lower than 2x, like 1.8x or so. So if you desqueeze your image by 2 times you might find that the people in the image look fatter than they should be.
  10. Both Kowa 16-S and 16-D have 60mm OD. You can use any of these clamps from Raf https://rafcamera.com/adapter-60mm-to-m62x0-75f https://rafcamera.com/adapter-60mm-to-m67x0-75f https://rafcamera.com/adapter-60mm-to-m72x0-75f https://rafcamera.com/adapter-60mm-to-m77x0-75f
  11. Nice idea, but the distance between your two lenses seem to be increased quite a lot though.
  12. That looks good! I've seen a few coating polishing videos on YouTube but they're basically just making the scratches finer, not disappeared.
  13. I think that's why you need a monitor with anamorphic support. On some cameras, like Panasonic S1H has built-in anamorphic mode for both recording and playback modes, so you'll get a proper view while recording and viewing the footage.
  14. This is very interesting! Any before and after pics for the glass itself?
  15. Somehow I don't get this. By reducing the length of the scope, I get that it would reduce some amount of the vignettes which means no sides cropping needed, thus more FOV? But then you lose 20% of 2x squeezing factor, that's from 2x to 1.6x. So how could you gain more FOV after losing 20% of the squeezing factor? Any explanation would be great, thank you!
  16. Looking for one if anyone has it for sale
  17. Sorry I didn't try to focus (at least not from 1.1m to Inf), only checked the FOV. One thing I noticed was that the focus changed, so I had to refocus the FVD-16A again to get a proper focus.
  18. Tried a Canon 0.8x WA in front of FVD-16A. It gives about 15-20% more coverage but very difficult to use. You need a proper support for it since you can't simply clamp on your FVD-16A's front. You will also need to be aware that most FVD extend when focus closer so it will hit your rear WA glass.
  19. Quick comparison on Iscomorphot 16 variations for anyone interested. Best known and most common are the SC version with smaller rear element and amber coating and the MC version with bigger rear element and blueish/purple coating. But there are all kinds of variations 1.) Iscomorphot 16 SC with more cone-like housing and rear thread exactly like Möller 32/2x, 34mm rear element diameter. This one has a front ring designed by Lucas Pfaff and produced by RAF that fits directly into HCDNA 2.) Iscomorphot 16 SC, common housing, purple coating, 34mm rear See our lens test on this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ME1p_z1TX40 3.) Iscomorphot 16 SC, common housing but large rear diameter, 42mm with purple coatings 4.) Well known Iscomorphot 16 MC, with large rear diameter (42mm) and blueish purple coatings. Primary flares are non-existent on this one but secondaries are still a lovely blue See Less
  20. Daniel Autenrieth posted this on the Anamorphic Shooter group. https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10158722284170792&set=gm.4014224048589203
  21. Sharp and Anamorphic usually don't go well together If you're looking for a sharp, single focus, compact anamorphic lens, you may try the Aivascope 1.5x. For 16 and 16mm, I'm not sure if I have ever seen an Iscomorphot 16 2x before. All I've seen are labelled as Iscormorphot MC 16mm 2X just like the one you bought.
  22. EUR 211 is a good price despite some fungus it won't affect the IQ. It's a sharp lens, not so wide but so sharp. If you were looking for the Iscomorphot 8/1.5x as well, this one is a lot sharper but without builtin single focus. It won't give any flares natively but a UV filter should help you add some flares. Happy shooting!
  23. Some 86mm closeup filters should work but they usually come in +1 +2 +3 or +4 strength which might be too much for the lens. To attach one of them, you probably need to get a custom clamp from a local machine shop. One side with 86mm threads or 3 screw holes for holding the clamp to the front of the lens. But believe me, all of these won't worth it. Just sell it or keep it as a (heavy) paper weight and buy a proper anamorphic adapter. Even a Singer/Sankor/Kowa 16-D is still a much better choice. Also, if you haven't, you should watch some beginner videos on Anamorphic on a Budget channel. They should have you get started a lot easier without having to do these trial and error headaches.
  24. My friend did when he was still new to the anamorphic world. He sold it a long time ago. He said the quality was way behind FVD-16A or HCDNA.
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