jcs

I attended an event in downtown LA on Saturday, June 17 called DisclosureFest 2017. It was about meditation, healthy products etc. While it was called DisclosureFest, I didn't see any booths or promos for UFOs/aliens etc. During Robot Nature's performance (pretty cool new band), people began pointing at the sky and everyone with a camera started pointing up and taking pictures. I looked up and saw a tiny spec of white, with bright flashes. I said out loud that looks like a drone, and everyone said, no, that's a real UFO! I put the 70-200 F2.8L II on the 1DX II and looked at the object through the optical viewfinder at 200mm. It looked very strange, kind of like a human-like form, all white floating in the sky. There where kites and some balloons floated by- windy enough to move balloons. This object didn't move- a balloon would float up and with the wind. I took a few stills then switched to 4K video. It was super sunny and I couldn't see anything on the LCD. So I just pointed the best I could...
I learned a few things for this kind of shooting:
A viewfinder is absolutely necessary! Go to manual focus and set for infinity with a high f-stop DPAF couldn't hold focus on a small object, however I did get a few seconds of decent footage. The RAW stills showed so much more detail vs. 4K video. That's when I realized I should have looked through the optical viewfinder and shot a few rapid bursts of RAW stills at 14fps!
I found a decent VF for $110: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D3551NU/ (on the topic of Amazon- need to start supporting other vendors. Low prices are great but killing all competition is not):

I shot this pic using a little product box I picked up at Samy's a while ago. It works pretty well.
The only issue with the VF is base plate needs to be adjusted/shimmed to get a better fit to the LCD and VF. Even as is, it works great because when you put up to your eye it pushes forward and blocks all light (no leaks).
I'm pretty sure at least one of the objects was man-made, some of the others it's hard to tell. I'm editing all the shots into a short video and will post when done.

I attended an event in downtown LA on Saturday, June 17 called DisclosureFest 2017. It was about meditation, healthy products etc. While it was called DisclosureFest, I didn't see any booths or promos for UFOs/aliens etc. During Robot Nature's performance (pretty cool new band), people began pointing at the sky and everyone with a camera started pointing up and taking pictures. I looked up and saw a tiny spec of white, with bright flashes. I said out loud that looks like a drone, and everyone said, no, that's a real UFO! I put the 70-200 F2.8L II on the 1DX II and looked at the object through the optical viewfinder at 200mm. It looked very strange, kind of like a human-like form, all white floating in the sky. There where kites and some balloons floated by- windy enough to move balloons. This object didn't move- a balloon would float up and with the wind. I took a few stills then switched to 4K video. It was super sunny and I couldn't see anything on the LCD. So I just pointed the best I could...
I learned a few things for this kind of shooting:
A viewfinder is absolutely necessary! Go to manual focus and set for infinity with a high f-stop DPAF couldn't hold focus on a small object, however I did get a few seconds of decent footage. The RAW stills showed so much more detail vs. 4K video. That's when I realized I should have looked through the optical viewfinder and shot a few rapid bursts of RAW stills at 14fps!
I found a decent VF for $110: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D3551NU/ (on the topic of Amazon- need to start supporting other vendors. Low prices are great but killing all competition is not):

I shot this pic using a little product box I picked up at Samy's a while ago. It works pretty well.
The only issue with the VF is base plate needs to be adjusted/shimmed to get a better fit to the LCD and VF. Even as is, it works great because when you put up to your eye it pushes forward and blocks all light (no leaks).
I'm pretty sure at least one of the objects was man-made, some of the others it's hard to tell. I'm editing all the shots into a short video and will post when done.

who did the scan on that film...?  Who was your DP?    If a lab does a bad scan (it's rare)..but they'll do it again for free.   200k was the budget of the completed movie?   the latest quote I got for two 400 rolls of 35mm and 3 rolls of super 16mm was 700 dollars for developing and top pro scan.  Just call one of the kodak labs...
 
if you're nervous start with one roll of film...it's cheap...you can make a full length movie with super 16mm for under 5 thousand

Without pixel peeping and YouTube/online-streaming compression, it's hard to tell the difference between 1DX II 4K and 1DX II 1080p (ALL-I ~100Mbps) post sharpened + fine grain noise (watch in 4K; even harder to tell when watched in 1080p): 
I find the stock 1DX II picture styles don't look as good as the 5D3 (different color science and sensors), however you can tweak the stock picture styles or create all new ones which work really well. When targeting 1080p/online-streaming and doing long takes/events, 1DX II 1080p works well and the ~100Mbps ALL-I files are easily manageable (can use IPB to get even smaller file sizes. I would normally use the A7S II for this kind of event, however the Sony was fired after it overheated in a 74F room + the 1DX II has working/usable autofocus): 
While the 1DX II can make a fine B cam for the C200 (and C300 II in our case), for the price if not also needing stills, the C200 is a superior B cam for video (and A cam if using RAW/external and if/when Canon allows 10-bit 422 internally).
 

So the 5D/1DxII DCI 4k 4:2:2 8bit MJPG at 500 Mbits that you can edit in real time without transcoding even on a notebook it is insane but at the same time everybody is crying because the C200 does not have a DCI 4k 4:2:2 10bit at 400 Mbits…. and also everybody is eagerly awaiting the GH5 firmware that will allow an edit ready 4k 10bit 4:2:2 at 400 Mbits. But hey 400 Mbits is perfect and 500 is insane...... If you want to edit ready 4k without transcoding in a good quality you will end up with at around 400 Mbits anyhow….
IMO the best B cam for the C200 is another C200 or C200B. It is a big advantage to have two cameras the same that you know the pro and cons, the menus, the customization, the button layout, the expect output, the sensor characteristic, same DOF, same lens and crop factor, NDs, the AF behavior etc… Additionally you have the same battery, same media, same LCD  etc… so if something breaks or is forgotten you mostly have a second one with you. Personally I already hate switching between 5D and 1Dx… So you will save time, have a perfect backup and probably at the save money.
In my case if I will buy the C200 the B cam would be my 1Dx II because I use it a lot for photography and in particular for action photography but if I would only do video probably I would buy a C200 and C200B.
If budget is an issue a C200 and a used 5D IV would be the best compromise IMO.

Nice one JCS !!  The speaker's skin tones look quite natural on my monitor.
Does "Boots" have any interest in sculpture ? only  some dogs are creative and artistic.

To get a film look:
Don't clip your highlights when filming Shoot with lower contrast settings, including turning in-camera sharpness down or off Turn down or off noise reduction and/or add organic noise grain in post (subtle is best IMO unless going for an effect) Use a diffusion filter, e.g. Tiffen Black Pro Mist 1/4 (I use one sometimes) In post bring your whites down so nothing is super white (study film to learn the levels) If too sharp or any visible digital artifacts, apply Gaussian Blur to reduce or remove. Then if too soft try Unsharp Mask (verses Sharpen) to bring back more apparent detail, and Unsharp Mask can also be used to create a Local Contrast Enhancement (LCE) effect: use a very large radius- over 100, perhaps 200 or 300+ and adjust other settings as needed Study the contrast curves / gammas of film, compare to similar shots on video-looking shots to learn the difference. Do the same with colors You can get a film look straight from camera with a bit of work. 1DX II (other Canon DSLR will look similar), on the left is Canon Standard with bit of grading and on the right is a custom profile with only contrast and sharpening in post. See full screen- at first they may look similar, look more closely at the skintones, eyes, and all colors:

I will try something similar for Panasonic and Sony after I finish the Canon version (I think the Panasonic and Sony versions will require a LUT in post to match what I can do with Canon SOOC). More info here: 
 
 

to get the "film look" over video, try to use less grading and more in camera capturing of the light and color, so as your footage can look beautiful without hours of grading. Never say ill fix it in post...as for all these luts and things i think they tend to look all the same, you should try to create your own coloring look, and i think less is more, if the end footage looks ungraded for me its a win

The digital bolex is a great example of how spec's don't always equal real world IQ.  It has at most 12 stops DR and less than 1080p real resolution but it does have such a great image which I think comes down to:
1. Global shutter gives the best motion cadence out there
2. Zero noise reduction in camera
3. The noise that is present is largely luma noise, which gives a great texture to image and while not exactly film grain is similarly quite pleasing.
4. Great colour science especially mid-tones -its a real credit that such a small and inexperienced team managed to fine-tune the sensor & processing to give such colour, but makes you wonder why the industry behemoths still seem to struggle.
Its a real pity the industry became so obsessed with resolution rather than colour science and motion cadence -Arri is the only ones who didn't rush into the 4K, 4.6K, 5.7K, 8K band wagon and well, it has worked out pretty well for them.

The latest C300 II firmware has an option to completely disable NR, and thus no more ghosting/artifacts. I've always liked Varicam footage, however I'll need to review this video in more detail when I have time. In a quick scan I didn't see where the V35 looked significantly better (on a technical or aesthetic level)- which time segments did you see this? I'm confident if I had both cameras at the same time (we have C300 II) I could make them match pretty well (I think even the GH5 Vlog can be filmic with a little post work). The big issue for us for these cameras is AF and native EF lenses (EVA1 has native support but no video AF (yet?)). For non-scripted shooting especially without a (great) AC to pull focus, DPAF-level AF is super useful. If the shots aren't in focus, especially in 4K, nothing else matters. We considered getting an Alexa Mini, which is arguably superior to all these cameras, except it doesn't have AF (and when kitted up it's pretty big and complicated).

The latest C300 II firmware has an option to completely disable NR, and thus no more ghosting/artifacts. I've always liked Varicam footage, however I'll need to review this video in more detail when I have time. In a quick scan I didn't see where the V35 looked significantly better (on a technical or aesthetic level)- which time segments did you see this? I'm confident if I had both cameras at the same time (we have C300 II) I could make them match pretty well (I think even the GH5 Vlog can be filmic with a little post work). The big issue for us for these cameras is AF and native EF lenses (EVA1 has native support but no video AF (yet?)). For non-scripted shooting especially without a (great) AC to pull focus, DPAF-level AF is super useful. If the shots aren't in focus, especially in 4K, nothing else matters. We considered getting an Alexa Mini, which is arguably superior to all these cameras, except it doesn't have AF (and when kitted up it's pretty big and complicated).

What's the RS on the EVA1 (or did I miss a global shutter announcement?  )? If the C200's RS is the same or better than the C300 II, that will be basically very little RS (C300 II is 8.33ms (Cinema5D reports 6ms)).
Wonder if ML RAW prompted Canon to put RAW in the C200...

Our A7S II just overheated and shut down when filming a live event (tripod and AC power), after recording continuously for ~1.5 hrs (sub 30 min segments). Ambient temp was around 74F. A C100/C200/C300 or FS5/FS7 (even a GH4/GH5) would have worked better in this situation. From our available cameras, it was the best size, file size, low light and look. Now that I know it overheats it won't get used this way again.

I use NX cameras for recording live performances, for a couple of years now, I hope my "luck" won't stop any time soon. I am looking right now at a live performance we did a few days ago, and I have a 60 and 50minutes files (and a few smaller ones). I usually have 4-5 files on 3 hours performances, and I cut just to be sure (for people not familiar with NX1/NX500 there is a 73min limit, and NX300 unlimited).
Today I had a meeting about a shooting we have in the weekend. There was a friend with an a6300, he also has the A7Sii, and last year we had a heated (no pun indented) conversation about how the small Sony could cope with the hot Mediterranean conditions that we have for 6-8 months per year. Last year he defended the camera, but today he told me that he wants to throw it away. The camera is shutting down, AFTER the firmware update, and in 1080p, he lost something critical once ( I do not know the details, and I wouldn't like to be the "I told you so" guy), and now he is trying not to use it that much, or at all. He also mentioned batteries and ergonomics. Now it is 3 out of 3 from people I know .
From my perspective, this camera has overheating issues. 
The way Fuji faced this issue for this similar sensor, is more straightforward and honest in my opinion. And Panasonic made a huge m43 camera (while small size was a huge advantage of the system until now) to overcome heat issues (it is well documented in many interviews). Sony just changed the threshold of the sensor..

Our A7S II just overheated and shut down when filming a live event (tripod and AC power), after recording continuously for ~1.5 hrs (sub 30 min segments). Ambient temp was around 74F. A C100/C200/C300 or FS5/FS7 (even a GH4/GH5) would have worked better in this situation. From our available cameras, it was the best size, file size, low light and look. Now that I know it overheats it won't get used this way again.

Our A7S II just overheated and shut down when filming a live event (tripod and AC power), after recording continuously for ~1.5 hrs (sub 30 min segments). Ambient temp was around 74F. A C100/C200/C300 or FS5/FS7 (even a GH4/GH5) would have worked better in this situation. From our available cameras, it was the best size, file size, low light and look. Now that I know it overheats it won't get used this way again.

Our A7S II just overheated and shut down when filming a live event (tripod and AC power), after recording continuously for ~1.5 hrs (sub 30 min segments). Ambient temp was around 74F. A C100/C200/C300 or FS5/FS7 (even a GH4/GH5) would have worked better in this situation. From our available cameras, it was the best size, file size, low light and look. Now that I know it overheats it won't get used this way again.

First clip is 4K, second clip is 1080p (it has the unique sharpness pattern due to the non-uniform binning used in 1080p 24/25/30p mode, resulting in more vertical sharpness than horizontal sharpness, same applies to the orginal 1DX)
The difference will be more pronounced if you shoot a scene with more details with deep DOF. This particular scene has too shallow DOF and your focus is all over the place.

Yeah I bought the Boomerang app for my smartphone, what you do is you throw your phone like a boomerang and it's supposed to 'untwist' the video. However I can't get my phone to 'boomerang back'. Think the app has a bug!

Yeah I bought the Boomerang app for my smartphone, what you do is you throw your phone like a boomerang and it's supposed to 'untwist' the video. However I can't get my phone to 'boomerang back'. Think the app has a bug!

Yeah I bought the Boomerang app for my smartphone, what you do is you throw your phone like a boomerang and it's supposed to 'untwist' the video. However I can't get my phone to 'boomerang back'. Think the app has a bug!

RAW honey, of course.

It would have to do RAW though as it's a tough crowd on here drone wise.

It's only a matter of time before we have telekinetic bee drones for $.99