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How would you kit out an NX1?


SleepyWill

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OK, so I am excited about an SLR camera for the first time since the 5D Mk 2. I'll be honest, I am full of flu right now and I'm hoping to benefit from the research of others so I get a headstart on my own :) So with that in mind, what would be your ideal partners for an NX1? What glass would you mount on it, what gems are there in the native lineup, etc etc

 

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For autofocus with photos I would definitely have to go with some native mount glass which they have a nice line up(16-50 f2-f2.8, 50-150 f2.8) and I'll be going with older Nikon primes mainly for video. Depending on the look I'm going for on a project I also might use native glass for video. 

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Guest Ebrahim Saadawi

About lenses: it depends on whether you need AF and IS or not. If you do, well you don't have much choice, get Samsung lenses, it's easy to decide which one as you're very limited in options.

If you don't need AF, then the whole world opens up due to the great NX mount being adaptable to everything else out there, look at a Nikon 28-70mm 2.8 and an 80-200mm 2.8, a killer combo, and if you want to go the fast prime way, get a Samyang cine set (16, 35, 85) and you're set, they have proper focua gears and very smooth focus and declicked iris, image quality is superb and very fast.

If by a kit you mean also other than lenses, then you need a proper audio recorder, something like a Zoom H# and/or a good Shotgun Microphone on top. ND filters are essential. A Gorrilapod to use as a shoulder rig goes a very long way in making steady handheld shots especially when using an EVF, so it's a cracking piece of gear to have. A good tripod that can pan and tilt smoothly is also essential. This way you're ready to make a film. Anything else is optional (cage, rig, external monitor/evf, External recorder, power solution, sliders, crane, jib, dolly, etc are all nice but optional)

Get well soon SleepyWell!

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For video, there's nothing I could suggest more than the sigma art trinity.

18-35 1.8  -  35 1.4  - 50 1.4

 

+ an 105mm macro (the L from canon, or nikon or sigma)

 

I just bought the 18-35 and 50 mm cine mod version from pchood:

 

http://www.pchood.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=45_72&product_id=307

 

http://www.pchood.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=45_72&product_id=320

 

I just can't wait to have these and try them on nx1

 

About samsung lenses I was told that the 45mm 1.8 performs very well and is like a gem for the price.

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Thanks guys! Feeling a lot better today!I have quite a collection of lenses from other systems already, they will certainly be being pressed into service - I think for this camera, I will want it to fit into a small billingham or similar, so I will probably take my sigma 18-35 and four other small lenses, probably my nokton 35, my hopefully soon to be mine dog schidt (speaking of which, Richard did you get my enquiry email?) and probably two natives - the reason being, autofocus for photoghraphy and weather sealing - I'm thinking the 16-50 and possibly the 20 or 30 pancakes, depending on the image they produce. If I need a tele, I'll swap something out for my trusty old STF 135. Then again, how can I leave my superwide samyang out... maybe a slightly bigger bag!

 

I know it's a lot of repeated lengths, but each lens has such a different character that I couldn't swap them out.

 

Got plenty of standard and lightweight rigs, audio gear (endless mics), sliders, tripods and heads etc but most cameras have one thing which can be really helpful, my BMPCC really benefits from a coldshoe for example, something I wouldn't have anticipated before buying, and instead of a mattebox, I use a lee filter system with formatt glass, again something I wouldn't have anticipated in advance having always found vari-nd's acceptable before.

 

So yeah, it's less about the basic gear (though if you're here asking a similar question and this is all new to you, these guys really know what they are talking about) and more about what idiosyncrasies the nx line has, as I am woefully ignorant of them at the moment.

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A Gorrilapod to use as a shoulder rig goes a very long way in making steady handheld shots especially when using an EVF, so it's a cracking piece of gear to have. 

 

This is brilliant advice, I'm in a wheelchair which can drastically limit a lot of my options (try setting up a "pocket" dolly solo from a chair without using your legs to understand!!)  but give me a gorillapod and I am sat in the worlds smoothest, most comfortable slider/tripod :D there is always a bright side!

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For autofocus with photos I would definitely have to go with some native mount glass which they have a nice line up(16-50 f2-f2.8, 50-150 f2.8) and I'll be going with older Nikon primes mainly for video. Depending on the look I'm going for on a project I also might use native glass for video. 

How good a zoom can a 50-150 F2.8 samsung lens give you? isn't only 3x zoom? Mark

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How good a zoom can a 50-150 F2.8 samsung lens give you? isn't only 3x zoom? Mark

 

Only???

 

Think of it this way, if you stand face to face with someone, noses only 2cm apart, and you move your head forward until your noses touch, it's only a change in viewpoint of 2cm but it makes a dramatic impression on the passive viewer (the other person) who will probably pull back from you. Now stand 200 meters away and dolly yourself 2 meters towards them, bet they hardly noticed you moved.

 

It's a bit of a fluffed simile, but it makes the point quite nicely, that it's not the magnification that is important, it's what you do with it. 50mm is a nice portrait length, on super35, 150 is a very long telefocal length. So you can have a really dramatic change in viewpoint with "only" a 3x magnification (and when you really get down to it, how many times the wide end can be divided into the long end is a really quite odd way to judge a lens).

 

Also remember every lens is a compromise, the wider a range of focal lengths any single lens covers, the more the lens is going to be compromised to deal with the optical effects - how can one lens adequately control both balloon distortion at the wide end and pincushion distortion at the long end, answer is with absolutely insanely expensive optics or it just doesn't but balanced some balloon with some pincushion and hope the middle is about right (and that is only one of many compromises). This is why you will find the better quality lenses have a lower magnification, they specialise in their range and do it well.

 

If you want one lens that rules them all, one lens that finds them, one lens to bring them all and in the darkness binds them, one single lens that covers every possible focal length, then why would you buy an interchangeable lens camera in the first place. They are fundamentally designed to take advantage of the higher quality optics while retaining the flexibility to be able to shoot a wide range of focal lengths. The compromise, it takes a few seconds to put a different one on.

 

Also, trust me on this, the Samsung 18-200 is not a pro lens and it is not a movie lens, it's a lens designed to have a giant x11 on the packaging to sell it.

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Moving the camera closer to the subject for tighter shots and moving away from the subject for wider shots is too complicated?

 

Haha, I think what I posted was poorly worded. What I meant to say: zooms allow sloppier set dressing and faster shot composition. You can get away with carrying less lenses and sometimes their rapid adaptability can help you capitalize on a moment you would've missed otherwise.

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Well, I just ordered an NX1 and I'll tell you what I got:

 

The 16-50S lens. $1100 I'm going to order the 50-150S when it comes out too. $1500

 

I got a 256GB UHS-I memory card. $100 An extra battery. $60 A battery charger. $30

 

And I got a canon adapter so I can use my Zeiss manual glass. $20

 

And this is just the beginning of course. There will always be more to buy. Need some ND filters next I think.

 

For the image quality this is so cheap I just can't believe it. We have REALLY come a long way in just a few short years. I think you could easily do feature film image quality with this setup. 

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