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joaomoutinho

Canon 50D - Magic Lantern "master"

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Hello EOSHD community,

I am new to the DSLR RAW filmaking, and I've been introduced to this "new world" in a time of intense change and breakthroughs in terms of Hardware and Software to the movie making industry.
I was used to film with the classic compressed DSLR, when I would press the button, it would record, than I get home, dumped the videos in PREMIERE and than export in whatever I wanted and... DONE!

Now I bought the Canon 50D, because I was told that was a really amazing camera with great 14-BIT RAW video capabilities with this Firmware called MAGIC LANTERN... (and than, tragiclantern to get the raw)

The thing is, I dont understand 10% of the options that come in the firmware, and the worst part is that I dont know how they are affecting the image!!
Besides that, the workflow of getting all those files (thousands of pics) into 1(one) video, I didnt find the way.
The MagicLantern forum on this issue is very confusing!! I lost myself reading that because is not very (or any) organized!


I really would like to know if anyone can help me get to know the MAGICLANTERN firmware from bottom to top.
Get full knowlodge of how it works and what single "spec" change affects what and combined changes affect  what... and so on!
I really would love to get the camera and shoot, the best way possible, and, by now, I can't even set it right...
If anyone can help me! I would be really thankfull!!

I am really a noob   :( 


Thank you all very much. 

Looking forward to "dominate" the machine!!!!



 

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EOSHD Pro Color for Sony cameras EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs

Thank you. I bought the Guide and printed it, just to get everything "on the go" for testing!

8 batteries and 1 komputerbay 64gb and a amazing dit should keep me out for a full day shooting...  Although, I still have some doubts about the crop mode and the aspect ratios!

Do I need anamorphic lens to get those amazing results or is just by doing all in Post? 

Should I keep the Cinema DNG forever, or convert and delete after? 

thank you

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Yes, Andrew's guide is fantastic.  However, the guide someone insinuates that you have to use Resolve or Adobe products, etc to appreciate RAW.  Obviously, Andrew was excited and out slaying the "RED One" dragon  :)

 

What I suggest is you take your RAW files (make sure you don't shoot MLV for now), open them in RAWanizer, and output to Cineform 422 directly.  You don't even need to create the DNG files and TIFF files.   You can use these settings to improve the CODEC to its maximum (a little sharpening and quality increase)  f is framerate:

 

"{OutputVideoName}.avi" -422 -d4 -f24 -q5

 

Then take the Cineform AVI file and put it in your NLE.  Just add a little contrast (because it takes a while to get used to low contrast images in this video age).  You can also boost the saturation a little, maybe sharpen.

 

I know many of you will laugh at what I'm saying.  But I believe even RAW to Cineform with a few tweaks blows any consumer H.264 out of the water.  It won't look sharper, but it will look more natural, life-like, nuanced.   The best qualities of film.

 

Save anamorphic for later.

 

Save your RAW files of course.  You can always work with them again in other software to get the most out of them.

 

Hope this helps!

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I have done one morning shooting MLV... What is the problem with MLV? 

It appears that I have a problem dealing with the SHUTTERSPEED, it looks like it is locked in one value, and whatever I do, it wont change... Dont really know how to work around this. Been in the ML forum and didnt found any answers...

I really dont like to be a noob, but im working to "get out" of this skin...  :(

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No problem with MLV except you'll need to convert to RAW first to take easy straight to Cineform route.  You can choose which to shoot in your camera by which module you choose to load, raw_rec, or raw_mlv.  (MLV will be better in future, but right now, really gives no benefit.)

 

If you don't have the on-off button turned all the way up past 'on', to line above, you can't change shutter speed.  I know, it's a crazy irritation ;)  Anyway, quick fix.  

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Really?!? So, i am not being able to work 100% with my camera because the "power button" needs to be "above" ON? oh my god!! And I was almost killing myself because of this!!

Just one little thing more if you can help me. I bought a KomputerBay 64GB umda7 1000x card and ive done benchmark testings.

it does not go above 53MB/s writing speed. There must be something wrong with the card, or whatelse could be the problem for me to have drop frames?

Really tricky to get all things running in this camera!  



PS-Even going all the way up in "power button" the only think chaging in "Shutter" is the "Tv" value... 

I dont know what is the problem, but my shutter seems to work randomly. When I manage to get it to 47.8 or 54.3 it goes back to 27...   awwwwww

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The Komputer Bay cards are essentially factory seconds.  Some work fine, others don't.  That's in Andrew's guide and was happy he warned me about it.  I just bit the bullet and bought a brand-name (Toshiba in my case) 16GB 1000x for $65.  If you can return it, do so and pay for name brand card.  There are enough headaches in this stuff, as you're experiencing ;)

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I would highly recommend Andrew's 50D Raw guide to anyone who owns or is thinking about owning a 50D for raw video. It answers a lot of questions and should get you up and running.
The ML site: magiclantern.fm) additionally will continue and increase the ML Raw user's knowledge base.

Albeit that commercially created raw cameras are possibly more user friendly; there is still a learning curve for almost any camera. There is also a learning curve for shooting and post for raw video.

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