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GH5 tips tricks and questions only


Orangenz
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Some tips for G85 users, but pretty certain they're applicable to the GH5 as well: expose to the right and reduce in camera sharpening for the widest dynamic range and least noise; use Cinelike D if you don't have V-Log L; do not use your in-camera microphone. I also test the tap to focus and find that it works quite well after all. Video may not have finished processing, I just uploaded it.

 

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Looks great Jonpais!

I just did some more editing tests on my laptop. I'm surprised that even my laptop handles the 4k 50p/8-bit footage fine!

It has a mere i7 4700HQ and an Nvidia 760m (which gets a lot of work to do when applying effects but that's to be expected), but i can just work directly on the files and having smooth playback in both the source monitor and the preview monitor.

I'm positively surprised because lots of people 'scared me' with their recommendation to transcode the footage first before editing because otherwise our computers will not handle the footage. 

Now, I have only one question. Does it get more taxing on the computer if the timeline gets longer? In other words, is a 10 minute film more stressful on the CPU and GPU than a 2 minute clip? Because I have just tested a timeline of 2 minutes.

So far, looks like I will not have to transcode anything.

How about you guys?

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9 hours ago, Orangenz said:

Well when I read it I thought that it was just doing exactly what I am doing. And by the sounds, what you are doing. Most shots are mostly dark, say under a roof shade, but with a bit of sky that is really bright showing in the background. So as most of the image is quite a bit darker than that bit of sky by the time you have brought it down enough to not clip the sky (no zebras) the scene definitely is underexposed a stop or so. So in post you just bring the shadows up. That's the situation I think about. Expose for the zebras seems to result in underexposing more often than not. The point is, this is ok. Or more ok than one would have thought in the case of these new machines.  Does that help?

This makes a lot of sense...I think one will have to pick your battles with how you expose...for narrative, a light meter will always the preferred choice, but for what Jon does, in the case of the dark scene except for a sliver of sky, I would imagine the default would become to let the highlight blow out...so much is dependent using this exposure method on the actual scene.

 

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8 hours ago, Stab said:

Looks great Jonpais!

I just did some more editing tests on my laptop. I'm surprised that even my laptop handles the 4k 50p/8-bit footage fine!

It has a mere i7 4700HQ and an Nvidia 760m (which gets a lot of work to do when applying effects but that's to be expected), but i can just work directly on the files and having smooth playback in both the source monitor and the preview monitor.

I'm positively surprised because lots of people 'scared me' with their recommendation to transcode the footage first before editing because otherwise our computers will not handle the footage. 

Now, I have only one question. Does it get more taxing on the computer if the timeline gets longer? In other words, is a 10 minute film more stressful on the CPU and GPU than a 2 minute clip? Because I have just tested a timeline of 2 minutes.

So far, looks like I will not have to transcode anything.

How about you guys?

Only more taxing with more concurrent (stacked) video tracks and effects. Duration doesn't affect it. Premiere on PC here and don't have to transcode. gtx780

12 hours ago, jonpais said:

Some tips for G85 users, but pretty certain they're applicable to the GH5 as well: expose to the right and reduce in camera sharpening for the widest dynamic range and least noise; use Cinelike D if you don't have V-Log L; do not use your in-camera microphone. I also test the tap to focus and find that it works quite well after all. Video may not have finished processing, I just uploaded it.

By tap to focus do you mean afc and then tap the screen? Does that stop it from hunting at that point?

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13 minutes ago, Orangenz said:

Only more taxing with more concurrent (stacked) video tracks and effects. Duration doesn't affect it. Premiere on PC here and don't have to transcode. gtx780

By tap to focus do you mean afc and then tap the screen? Does that stop it from hunting at that point?

I have the camera set to manual, but there's still an AF icon on the LCD. It turns out to be AF-S. I only use it when I'm in front of the camera, when I'm behind I use the AF lock button. To ensure single point focus, go into the motion picture menu, AFS/AFF and select AFS. 

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10 minutes ago, jonpais said:

I have the camera set to manual, but there's still an AF icon on the LCD. It turns out to be AF-S. I only use it when I'm in front of the camera, when I'm behind I use the AF lock button. To ensure single point focus, go into the motion picture menu, AFS/AFF and select AFS. 

I just drag and drop the 1_area box on the screen. It focusses when you release it. 

In afc you don't have to drag and drop, just tap the screen and press set. Will have to try this out as it sure looks smooth to me. 

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I just updated my speedbooster (T model, mark IV) and played with Sigma 12-35mm F1. and GH5.

Some observations:

IBIS isn't that great with it but better than nothing.

AF works

AF-C doesn't really work well.  It actually does ok if the subject approaches the camera, but if you are increasing the distance it hunts like crazy and then doesn't focus.

Focus racking in camera does NOT work with this combo.  I was kind of disappointed in this one :(

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12 minutes ago, scotchtape said:

I just updated my speedbooster (T model, mark IV) and played with Sigma 12-35mm F1. and GH5.

Some observations:

IBIS isn't that great with it but better than nothing.

AF works

AF-C doesn't really work well.  It actually does ok if the subject approaches the camera, but if you are increasing the distance it hunts like crazy and then doesn't focus.

Focus racking in camera does NOT work with this combo.  I was kind of disappointed in this one :(

Does focus racking work with your other non- Panasonic lenses?

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39 minutes ago, tomsemiterrific said:

So, Jon, how to you expose V-log? And do you expose Cinelike D the same way you'd expose Natural or Standard?

I'm not sure. I should add that I only realized this morning that the clip I uploaded last night is way too dark, I may edit it again and re upload in the near future. 

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1 minute ago, funkyou86 said:

I really did not dig in to the AF system of the camera, now I got Vario 12-35mm lens for a limited time, but I can not get the AF working in variable frame rate mode. Any tips on that?

Seems, it is not available in that mode. In any case, try to see the tap-to-focus feature (AFC mode).

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37 minutes ago, Emanuel said:

Thanks for the links. I am still unable to set any kind of AF in VFR mode, also can not set the "tap to focus" feature. This whole AF sh.t is not very user friendly :D manual focus still works the best :D I planned to invest in to some MFT lenses, but if VFR can not do the trick, then I see no reason for it :( 

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9 minutes ago, funkyou86 said:

Thanks for the links. I am still unable to set any kind of AF in VFR mode, also can not set the "tap to focus" feature. This whole AF sh.t is not very user friendly :D manual focus still works the best :D I planned to invest in to some MFT lenses, but if VFR can not do the trick, then I see no reason for it :( 

I always bet on hybrid stuff... cameras, modes (AF, that is, but based on touchscreen focus for sure and MF too, oh yeah, no machine will decide where focus is better than me ; )

But, you still have marvelous 4K/60p, count on it! :-)

 

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On 12/04/2017 at 11:52 PM, Fritz Pierre said:

So 18 mm vignettes on the XL speed booster and Sigma 18-35 @ 18 mm and not on the Ultra speed booster, but it really makes no difference as the XL gives you a wider FOV anyway, so it seems on the XL you would simply zoom on the Sigma until you match the FOV you would get using the Ultra speed booster...

Exactly. XL is all the way to go once beyond an extra 1/3 stop, you get more or less the same focal length at least, if not even wider -- 16 against 19 (FF equivalent):

(18mm * 0,64 = 11,52 * 1,28 = 14,7456** with vignetting, but)

20mm * 0,64 = 12,8 * 1,28 = 16,384** without vignetting (according to some reports)
25mm * 0,64 = 16 * 1,28 = 20,48** without vignetting

On Ultra without vignetting:

18mm * 0,72 = 12,96 * 1,48 = 19,1808**

On the other end, you can lose zoom range with:

35mm * 0,64 = 22,4 * 1,28 = 28,672**

against:

35mm * 0,72 = 25,2 * 1,48 = 37,296**

Nothing a pretty affordable 50mm f/1.4 (1 stop faster then) won't solve:
50mm * 0,64 = 32 * 1,28 = 40,96**

 

** FF 35mm format equivalent

 

:-)

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