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@Maxbrand, wow! These stills look gorgeous.

Non-calibrated here, AOC i2369VM.

And a small addition from me:

Thank you! I have to admit that all the discussions in this thread made me really motivated and helped finish it. A humble Panasonic G80 / G85. I'm pretty surprised, too! Never considered speedboosters and anamorphic adapters as image cleaners - turns out they're quite okay at it, haha. Vignetting is entirely gone, when I start recording due to 4K Photo Mode crop, so it's not that bad. ( :

I finally did manage to convert that Minolta MD 58/1.4 to EF. It was a tricky process, mostly trial and error since you can't predict how much you need to file down some parts in order to reach infinity focus. I couldn't have done it without this guide: https://web.archive.org/web/20131026030722/http://www.cogitech.ca/Rokkor/index.html (thank God we can travel back in time, because the site doesn't exist anymore) But all in all, I think it was worth it. Wide open it's a bit glowy, but sharp and contrasty. Bokeh is quite bubbly. At f/2 the glowiness is gone and both sharpness and contrast improve, bokeh is more smooth. Helios 44-4 at f/2. And, finally - Minolta MD 58/1.4 on a Viltrox EF-M2 speedbooster meant for EF lenses. f/1.4: and f/2: More importantly: it works in an anamorphic setup, but vignettes slightly when combined with a speedbooster. f/1.4 f/2 Fun fact: at f/1.4 it's 150K colder and just a tiny bit more green (3 units) than at f/2 Mission accomplished, yay.

Yup, it is! It means that the camera uses full sensor's height for recording 4:3. It only crops sides just a little. From all the consumer cameras, only GH5 does this.

4:3 Open Gate video recording!

Beware of the Sammy 24 mm - there is a big copy variation. Some of them are stellar, some - not so much. If you get a good copy, it's an exquisite lens.

Many people say that vidatlantic's clamps aren't that good. They can damage your scope pretty easily and leave screw marks on the barrel. To be honest, I'd go with some manufactured clamp, especially since your back thread isn't standard size. You could try asking RafCamera (Russia) or Arkadiusz Kroma (Poland) - both of them offer the best quality/price ratio - or just go all in and contact Redstan (UK), whose clamps are simply a work of art.

And here is mine take:

Not necessarily green - it looks earthy, but it's a good thing. Like Arri earthy. ( :

Just a note for G80/G85 and GX80/GX85 users: (this may be of interest to you, @canonlyme) Consider disabling IBIS while shooting anamorphic. Recently I took a look at my short video tests and noticed that there is a lot of swaying going on in them. At first I thought that rolling shutter was to blame, but after further tests I concluded that this swaying has nothing to do with fast pans and it's visible even during some subtle movement. Turns out IBIS in G85 doesn't like scopes. Sorry for hijacking the thread!

If I needed / could afford Atomos, I would've definitely gotten GH5 first or just rented them together. ( : And: sadly, you can't be in 4:3 and Cine-D at the same time. Cine-D (on GX80 and G80) is available only in Video Mode, which gives you 16:9 by default.

It does, I played with it for a while a month ago, when my friend asked me to repair her iPhone and I still had a7iii. It's one of the best apps I've bought, really. Very reliable, many useful features (aspect markers, safe zones, false colors, LUTs - you name it), frequent updates. Had a chance to exchange some emails with the developer and he's a great guy, too. Oh, that's a shame. Seemed really nice. We really need to convince Adam Wilt (the dev behind FieldMonitor) to port his app to Android. Back in November he said he wasn't working on it, but maybe something changed.

Why are we, the Androiders, left behind? ?

I've tried the 4:3 4K Photo Mode with anamorphics on my G80/G85 (which shares many features with GX80/GX85) and, to be honest, I got better results when shooting standard 16:9 4K 24fps video. Rolling Shutter in 4K Photo Mode is worse than in a regular video mode, IBIS doesn't seem to work that good, you can shoot only in 30fps and there is no Cine-D. Sure, I get even more cropped image and I do have to crop out a lot of pixels, but it works for me. Not saying it's the best solution, but maybe you'll like it more?

I like this one better. Colors seem more true-to-life, yet still you managed to keep the grade contrasty and cool.

Reviving this thread, since I became an owner of one of these new single focus solutions. A brief myFM (Евгений Мыреев's single focus) review. I wasn't asked to write it, nor did I get any discount / money / ANYTHING for doing it. Just my personal, unbiased opinion. Build quality: It's pretty robust, but light at the same time. There is some really slight loosness when focusing. It's nothing dramatic, but it's there. Otherwise, it's quite smooth, but no buttery smooth - just what you could expect from a Chineese helicoid. I've owned a SLR Magic Rangefinder before and must admit that focusing with the Rangefinder was better than with myFM. MyFM features M65 threads (both rear and front) which may prove to be quite difficult to mount. I contacted Arkadiusz Kroma (who happens to live in my close vicinity, hahaha) and after providing him with some measurements, he managed to produce an amazing front clamp that fits myFM and golden Isco Ultra Star just perfectly. Just to let you know: I realize it’s quite a controversial mod, but I had my Isco lathed in order to mount a diopter as close to the front glass as possible. Arkadiusz took into account and his clamp sits just above Isco’s barrel. Optics: Now, this is where it shines. Test setup: Panasonic G80 / G85 + Helios 44-4 (58mm f/2), both with and without Viltrox EF-M2 + Isco Ultra Star 1st gen; all photos took at f/2 I attach sample photos and a link to RAW files so you can judge it yourself, but I’m pretty amazed. (They may be misaligned and I'm deeply sorry for it. Had to hold the anamorphic adapter in my hand, because I'm waiting for a proper lens collar.) Order of photos attached to the post: 1 - no speedbooster, no anamorphic adapter, 2 - no speedbooster, anamorphic adapter, no single focus, 3 - no speedbooster, anamorphic adapter, single focus 4 - speedbooster, no anamorphic adapter, 5 - speedbooster, anamorphic adapter, no single focus, 6 - speedbooster, anamorphic adapter, single focus Sharpness and contrast seem to be unaffected, even wide open. It does introduce some tiny chromatic aberration on edges of the frame, but it’s almost unnoticeable, especially when compared SLR Magic RF, which in this field is just awful. Coatings look gorgeous. They are mostly purplish, but sometimes show a bit of amber. Flares: Fortunately, there is no blue blob or any other creature, haha. I don't know why, but it seems to mute reflected flares just a little. Take a look at the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUa6B7E6oUM It’s also worth noting, that myFM works as a delicate wide angle converter. It widens your field of view by 0.92x And the biggest drawback: vignetting. Since myFM is built with ~62 mm diameter glasses, it won’t allow you to go as wide as HCDNA or FVD-16A do. With my setup, I get a noticeable hard vignette. 58 mm * 0.695 (Viltrox EF-M2) * 0.92 (myFM wide angle abilities) * 2 (G80 crop) = 74.17mm (35mm eqv.) Just by removing Viltrox from the equation, I get a 106mm eqv. and no vignette. Right now, I don’t own any lenses between 58 and 135 mm so I can’t perform more tests. I hope I’ll be able to adapt my Schneider 75/2 soon. Questions? Regards! Link to samples: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IwkW08EzCk6o5lf4m3bFVii0Brd2OtR1/view

It looks good to my eyes. Can't see any purple besides the fringing on edges.

It should.

I'm on Firefox and yes, the image posted here is identical to the one I see in Resolve.

I'd rather not, haha. ? I'm becoming a little tired of constant buying / selling camera gear, even though I manage not to lose any money in the process.

Can't disagree with you there. However, I can't justify buying a speed booster meant only for one particular lens. I know, haha. It's just the way I am, always going against the grain. Being closer to the anamorphic block is important, but so is focal length (if not more). It's more like a hit and miss method, really. No one can guarantee that a specific combo will work, unless you test it. So do I, so do I..

We'll see.. I made myself a promise that after migrating to M4/3 from Sony's FF, I won't let gear obsess my mind any more and I'll try to keep things simple. 3 / 4 lenses, one cheap speedbooster and that's it, nothing more. Overall, it's just a hobby. So far, I didn't break the promise, so, please, don't tempt me! ? It is! IBIS works wonders. Using 4:3 4K Photo Mode to record anamorphic video is great. It has its limitations (only 30fps, no way to change it to 24, so I just slow it down in post; no CineD; and no HDMI output), but it doesn't bother me that much. And it cost me 1/3 of what GH5 would.

I wish I could find one in that price. They tend to go for around ~100 $ , if one wants to get a nice copy. Yup, MC-II is the one I'd be looking for. Panasonic G85 / G80 I do know I could mount the Minolta 58/1.4 with just a simple MD→M4/3 adapter, but I do plan to place a Viltrox EF-M2 speed booster between to get that sweet ~85 mm eqv. My biggest fear is that Rokkor's rear lens element might hit Viltrox's glass element when the lens is focused near infinity. And, unfortunately, I need to be able to focus near infinity, because otherwise my single focus diopter (required for anamorphic work) won't work. Quite a trouble, isn't it? I read that the rear element can be filed to prevent it hitting DSLR mirror and if everything fails, I guess I'll file it, too. Sources: http://www.takagitechnology.com/cameras/minolta/id2.html https://web.archive.org/web/20131026030722/http://www.cogitech.ca/Rokkor/index.html https://www.flickr.com/photos/28476552@N04/8342896727/in/photolist-dHewx2