heart0less

@kye, there is an option to 'Use Optimized Media' under Advanced Settings in Delivery tab, but I have it unchecked. ) : It was a good hunch, though - Jim from Blackmagic Forum suggested the same.

Oh, it's not H265 files that are bothering me - these work just fine. I just can't export stills at their original quality - they get super compressed in the process. Can't really say, since I've played with it for only one day! ( : Unfortunately, the venue was so poorly lit, that I had to ditch 16-50 and grab my Minolta 58/1.4, which was a lifesaver. Not only it's brighter, but also much more reliable and predictable, when you have to set your focus manually. Yup, that's what caught my attention, too! I was recording for almost 6 hours and the original battery lasted for about 3 h. Generic batteries are a bit weaker (even though they have 20% more capacity [allegedly] ) and for the last 3 hours I used up one and 30% from another one. What nobody mentions is NX1's incredible immunity to high temperatures. Like I said before: I was using the camera constantly for a couple of hours, recording in Pro quality UHD in 28 °C (no direct sunlight, though - everything was done indoors) and I did not get any single warning / drop frames / unexpected errors. Wow. Every Sony camera would cry for help and eventually drop dead after 15 minutes.

Exactly this way. No, I haven't. Thanks for the hint, will try it a bit later.

I checked it with some manual lenses and the blobs are still there. Bill from dpreview.com (https://***URL removed***/forums/thread/4397924) conducted some tests and concluded that it's most likely laser damage. Nonetheless, I managed to come to an agreement with the seller and got a quite substantial discount - 350 €. That's 650 € for a body and 16-50 S. I decided to keep the camera and it already proved useful - I shot a live studio session yesterday and will share some stills as soon as my issues with Resolve are solved. ( :

I have some issue with exporting stills. Created a topic on a BM forum and waiting for its approval. Maybe you could tell me what I'm doing wrong? This is how I see my image in Resolve after zooming in to 100%: This is how my exported still look like: I use Optimized Media (Quarter Resolution, DNxHR SQ) for all my clips and I think this is the culprit. However, I made sure to uncheck 'Use Optimized Media if available' in Playback dropdown menu just to prevent Resolve from using proxies for a while. Both timeline resolution and still resolution is 3840x2160. 'Output scaling' (in 'Image Scaling' in 'Project settings') is set to 'Match timeline settings'. Is there any other thing that could affect stills quality? I tried exporting the files as TIFFs (instead of PNGs) - didn't help.

Don't mention it. I'm glad I could help somehow. Yeah, unfortunately it is.

Thanks, guys. I should get a NX-EF adapter (just a simple dumb one) on Monday and will write you a follow-up.

Hi! I decided to try out the (in)famous NX1 and managed to buy one in a kit with 16-50 f/2-2.8 S for a 1000€ on eBay. I got it today and immediately took some test photos. Unfortunately, I noticed some strange blobs near the upper border of the image. 100% crops: Are these stuck pixels? They are on every photo I took, always in the same place. However, when I took a body cap photo, I couldn't spot them no more. The photo is pitch black. Both camera sensor and lens are clean, they have no dust, scratches, etc. I didn't drag the shutter. The blobs appear even at 1/250th I performed a couple of Sensor Cleaning in-camera, didn't notice any difference. Followed this thread: https://***URL removed***/forums/thread/3911003 - no help, at all. Any ideas? I can always return it, the seller is a great, nice guy. Thanks.

Amen to that.

Works good on my end. What error do you get?

I highly recommend joining Anamorphic Shooters group on Facebook. Here are some posts regarding gimbals from the community: https://www.facebook.com/groups/anamorphicshooters/permalink/1865630600115236/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/anamorphicshooters/permalink/2448995765112047/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/anamorphicshooters/permalink/2438234542854836/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/anamorphicshooters/permalink/2353370531341238/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/anamorphicshooters/permalink/2452121901466100/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/anamorphicshooters/permalink/2035232103155084/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/anamorphicshooters/permalink/2227113970633562/

The fact that XT-30 didn't get more attention is beyond my understanding. It's a great body.

This may be right. Nonetheless, consider how much time and resources do we spend on our perfect lens set. We debate on their characteristics: sharpness, contrast (both global and micro), color renderition, bokeh, etc. All these can be altered by putting this thin filter in front of our beloved glass. I was just looking for an affordable ND that does what it's supposed to do, while being 'invisible'.

eBay, Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace and photo / video related Facebook groups. It's not really difficult to find a buyer, if your asking price is reasonable.

Looks great! Dig the lighting. I think you desqueezed it too much, though. Original: At 86% width:

I'd love to, but its price really puts me off. 170GBP? Wow. Some people recommend getting SIMMOD. It's a bit cheaper than SLR Magic, too. But I think I'm done with what I already have.

Each of them do! Finally, I can do it in a daylight, too. No more creeping in shadows, like a vampyr. Though, yeah - very good point. It's quite silly to stick to these technicals.. Go ahead! I'm glad I could help. IMHO, it's the best choice. The only thing I don't truly like is its range. I wish it could go further than 4 stops.

Hello! I've been looking to replace my 20$ Zomei variable ND filter for some time. It isn't unusable, but has its own quirks, which I was quite fed up with. I decided that I don't want to spend more than 40$ for a new one ( high-rolling, ain't I? ). So, after doing a little research I put my money on a K&F ND2-32. In the meantime, while I was waiting to get it from China, I also managed to find a bargain on eBay: an used Genustech ND filter (not the Eclipse version, unfortunately). Each of these filters cost me ~40$ Here is how they compare. I used Panasonic G85 and Minolta 58/1.4 (set to f/2) on a dumb adapter, which roughly translates to 116 mm eqv. Color cast: White balance was set manually, each time I put on a new filter. To do it, I simply held a white card in front of my camera and let it save the results as a custom WB setting. So, without any filter I got 5650K and +10 tint. With K&F: 5250K, +21 With Genustech: 5100K, +25 (though it still looks yellowish to my eyes) With Zomei: 5250K, +22 2. Sharpness and contrast This was a bit tricky to evaluate, since Genustech acted as a some kind of a diopter. When I put it on, my focus point shifted just a little and I had to refocus the shot. These are 100% crops from image above. No filter (SS: 1/250 s): K&F at ND2 (1/100 s): K&F at its maximum (which, truth be told, is closer to ND16 than ND32) [1/13 s]: Genustech at ND2 (1/100 s): Genustech matching K&F max (1/13 s): Genustech at its maximum (around ND 200 [7.5 stops]) [0.8 s]: Zomei at ND2 (1/100 s): Zomei matching K&F max (1/13 s): Zomei at its maximum (also around ND200) [0.8 s) : 3. Bokeh Both small and big 'balls'. Once again, 100% crops. No filter: K&F: Genustech: Zomei: 4. Other thoughts What I really like about the K&F filter is the fact that it has hard stops at minimum and maximum. It's a shame it goes only up to ND 16. Genustech doesn't really work as a polarizer. If you rotate it, it won't block reflections (both K&F and Zomei will). Instead, it changes reflections' color (from brownish to blueish). I'm not sharing my conclusions since I don't want to influence yours. Which filter would you keep with you, taking everything into account? Regards.

+1 to what Adam says.

I loved this article. Great insights; made me reconsider a lot of affordable and viable options. Please, keep them coming, Andrew!

Yup, it's high time Resolve got more recognition. It really deserves it.

This looks so cheap.

'E' and 'G' looks the best to my eyes with 'G' being a bit more contrasty and detailed than 'E'. Note that I'm viewing it on my phone (like 90% of audience nowadays do).

The one you posted before: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5U00UYhXDk It shows how something was done before and how to approach it now. For me, it's the best way of learning and improving my skills.

My bad, I meant the Extended Patreon Podcasts, which often feature some breakdowns, etc.