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About CfFilmmaker

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Boise, Idaho
  • Interests
    Anamorphic, raw shooting, filmmaking, storytelling
  • My cameras and kit
    Fuji X-T3, sigma 18-35 art, takumar 50mm 1.4, Proskar 16b Anamorphic

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  1. I recently bought an E mount Sirui 24mm on eBay thinking that, like the 35mm it had an interchangeable mount. It doesn’t not, fun fact! So now I need to sell it, never used, to get the right one. I’m obviously not going to be able to sell it for retail, so I’m asking for $900. If anyone is interested hit me up!
  2. YAwesome Elmoscope ii anamorphic with added threads to accommodate the Rapido FVD on the front. Comes with rear clamp with 77mm threads. No scratches on any of the glass, the FVD is only a few months old and barely used. Asking $1500
  3. Had a similar issue with my Elmoscope II, turns out the focus ring was bent in making it a hell of a time to unscrew. Cut my fingers on the threads a few times but was able to use a cut up tennis ball to give me the grip I needed to wrench it off.
  4. Ok, killing it man, so crispy. You make that A7sii look like a totally different camera! So many questions- Does that Isco really clear 50mm at full frame? Was that internal slog2, or to an atomos? Also, for the ambience, was that all foley or did you rig a shotgun to catch some of the sounds? Killed it. Definitely inspired me to try some new stuff with my work.
  5. That makes total sense. In a business environment- which I think most of us would like to find ourselves in if we can make it happen- it's not practical to jump through that many hoops for something a lot of clients frankly don't even notice. (unless you've been hired specifically for it) Those square fronts are going to be sick! How long until you think you'll be able to get them?
  6. Love the BTS shots! That's a cool connection through your job. Keep the great stuff coming!
  7. Depends on how small you need it to be! Here's a few setup recommendations from my experience. 1) The Anamorphot 50 with the Rangefinder is a classic setup, and the flares work well together. The full kit can be had for less than $800 if you wheel and deal on ebay. If you stay stoped down and don't use lenses with long focal lengths (85mm+) that is a great one to start with. People make a deal about it not being sharp due to the Rangefinder, but at the right aputure and focal length settings, it does a great job. 2) If you don't mind getting a little bigger, the Kowa prominars are all awesome. I'd recommend most iterations of them. These are around $350-$750. They are fairly compact and sharp. They also flare nicely. If you get one with blue flares, which will be most of them, the SLR magic plays well with them. 3) If price is your main concern and you don't mind going bigger still, the Hypergonar Hi Fi 2 is about as much Anamorphic character as you can pack for less than $200 The flares are golden and have an excellent pattern, the footage is organic, raw, a litttle distorted, and a little soft wide open, though the lens can get sharp with the right combo. Don't go for a Hypergonar S.T.O.P. though, as you know Tito isn't a huge fan. Other lenses worth a little research are the Proskar, Aivascope, Isco Ultrastar, and the Schneider Cinelux. My biggest recommendation is that you order yourself a Rapido FVD-16 variable Diopter. Great sharpness, not flare tinting, and a front filter size that makes much more sense than a Rectilux. It goes for $550 currently too. You can go for one of those Isco Kits on ebay, but you'll pay for convenience. If you've got the money though, the single focus system is sharp and not tinted as well. That's what I got! If you have any questions reply and I'll see if I can answer!
  8. That is sick! Ok, more info needed- is this a commissioned project or did you do this one for fun? And I take it that was a Kowa Prominar? What kind of car mount did you use?
  9. I'm really curious to see what you guys have been able to make with your lenses! Let's see your stuff! Doesn't have to be finished, or really have any structure, just some footage you've shot! Post it here and leave the setup you used in the description! I'll start, I shot this wedding with an Ursa Mini 4.6k, a rokinon 50mm T 1.5, Rokinon 85mm T 1.5 a Schneider Super Cinelux and a Rapido FVD-16A variable Diopter. https://drive.google.com/a/kimhaskell.com/file/d/1CdLZc746FEAo-j6fRRfyh4nxUZQIpOh3/view?usp=drivesdk
  10. Only on the gh5 does it increase the resolution to my knowledge. Good point, I was thinking gh4s to bmcc 4k.
  11. Have to add this here because I think there's some confusion on crop factors, lens focal lengths and 4:3 shooting modes. First misconception I see is that "not having a 4:3 shooting mode means you are loosing resolution if you shoot 16:9 because you crop it later". You aren't, in fact. If you do the pixel math you'll find that either way, you are cropping the same amount to reach your desired aspect ratio, the only difference is one is being cropped by the camera to create the 4:3 and the other you are cropping in post. Though the BMPCC 4k doesn't yet have a 4:3 mode, you can still use 4:3 guides to help you see what you need to keep in frame ensuring you don't crop things incorrectly in post. In fact I'd say shooting in 16:9 is awesome because you can reframe things horizontaly if you need to. If you have an external monitor that can do 2x desqueeze (like this one here for $110 http://www.cinemartin.com/monitors/7inch/loyal/lt/) that's even better to use with those guides. Second misconception is that "anamorphic on full frame is worse compared to anamorphic on a crop sensor because you can't use wider lenses thus limiting your field of view". Your field of view on any given anamorphic is set based on the lens you choose. I'll give an example: The Kowa 8z clears full frame 2.4:1 with a 50mm lens. That same Kowa on a m43 sensor can be used with a 25mm lens. If you take into account the sensor's 2x crop factor, it has an equivalent field of view (assuming no speed booster is used). This means that the only difference between anamorphic on full frame and on crop sensors is what taking lenses you have or are willing to buy for the anamorphic. Some of the best 50mm 85mm, and 100mm vintage lenses can be had for less than $60, so this wouldn't be a barrier to me. Since the camera body is the most expensive part of the process, start there and you can get the rest to work with it. One final thing to add is a note on the nature of anamorphic footage and their added field of view. Tito Ferradans mentioned this once on a forum and it blew my mind! Anamorphic lenses squeeze vertical information into a smaller area that then gets decompressed later. This means that if you are shooting on a 2x anamorphic, your horizontal field of view is going to be 2x as much as a normal lens that focal length. To use my earlier example, a 2x Kowa 8z with a 50mm taking lens on a full frame actually has a horizontal field of view equal to a 25mm lens! Kind or crazy. So don't flip out if your anamorphic requires an 85mm lens to clear vignetting, you actually can see a lot more than you think. Hope this helps anyone who's trying to make a decision on what to get! Anamorphic lenses are about feeling more than they are logic. It's not logical to carry around a train of lenses, diopters, filters and single focus modules along with all the other film gear we use. There are so many modern lenses and cameras that you can point, shoot and get great results. Anamorphic is a decision to do something the hard way because of how it feels, both to us, and if we do it right, to our audience.
  12. Looking to buy a Proskar 16 in good condition. If anyone knows where I can get one, let me know!
  13. Looking awesome! I'm excited to see the finished result!
  14. I would be really curious to see what the image would look like if you removed the coating from that front element. I found this video and it's made me reconsider some lenses with blue flares (I'm partial to the golden ones). It looks like it changes them a substantial amount. Maybe getting rid of it could solve some of the blue haze issue.
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