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Everything posted by BenEricson

  1. I own the C70 (Same Sensor.) I think the potential for nice color is definitely there. Really clean sensor. The color work flow Canon has provided is really terrible though. The LUTs are 6 years old and were built for the original C300 Mkii. Nothing has been updated. The LUT pack for C70 even includes LUTs for gamma profiles that no longer exist. (Clog2 / BT.709) I think at this point, when a cell phone can shoot nice photos and videos, the camera manufactures really should be focusing on a solid post work flow that produces beautiful, consistent results or they will lose customers.
  2. I think the color in general has always suffered as the light sensitivity gets better. Look at the original Black Magic Pocket, Digital Bolex, Arri Alexa. None of the those are lowlight cameras but in the right light they look really really good.
  3. Yeah, those Rec709 grades with like 7 or 8 stops of dynamic range look so rich and vibrant. Film print style. Even 35mm film shot right now has a lot less punch than it used to. I always though the baked in profiles on the C300 Mkii or maybe the 1DC or 1DX look really really nice. Yes, you have to be more intentional with your exposing but the results are really nice. Not all log footage is the same though. Flat film scans are incredibly easy to grade. You don't need any LUTs, just a standard correction will look really good and natural.
  4. Nah, it's pretty bad. Do a search for even Canon C70 footage. Nothing you can find will look this good. There's tons of flat looking footage, but almost nothing with a standard balanced REC709 grade. The C300 Mkii looked good to me as well. One of the easiest cameras to get beautiful skin tone out of.
  5. You'd have to under expose the pocket quite a bit to get a perfect circle like that. Most digital cameras will produce a blob, rather than the clean circle film produces, (unless you're shooting a silhouette.) RAW would probably get you closer. I always use ProRes on the bmpcc.
  6. For me it is the way the pocket or the micro handles saturation on the top end. The example above is going to pure white in the highlights. The sun is golden at sunset. Here is a shot I took on the pocket a few years back, the second photo is Kodak 250d from a project I did last year. The 16mm film really has no clipping point in the highlights, so of course it looks better, but that characteristic of being able to easily push saturation in the highlights is there in the pocket as well. The version with contrast was graded by a colorist. Images are subject, but I would rather let the ligh
  7. That's a cool little rig. I think I like the image I see from the pocket more, although I have always loved the files from any ML Canon camera. The ease of ProRes HQ is definitely easier from a work flow perspective.
  8. There’s some irony here... People talk about the UMP 12K because it is new and exciting tech. If Steve only cared about image quality, he would just shoot 35 or 65 and be done with it. For better or for worse, he’s clearly a tech dork and is obsessed with perfectly the digital capture techniques. Image quality is all subjective, anyway.
  9. Yeah, the sweet spot on the older c-mount glass is definitely F5.6 to F11. You can get a nice natural softness / glow at F4 or 2.8, but the wider lenses also vignette at times.
  10. You're probably a bit more experienced with this sort of thing. The sensor on the pocket is tiny, so at F5.6 or F8, you should have no problem zone focusing and getting really good results. If you want to shoot at F2 while walking backwards and maintaining focus, there are certainly better gimbals and cameras. I am more speaking to the fact that the gimbal is tiny, weighs next to nothing, takes me 1 minute to balance, and the batteries last forever. The Ronin is twice the size and more than twice the price.
  11. Save your money and buy a Lumix 12-35 2.8 IS and a nice external battery for your pocket! You can solve the problem with stabilization by using an IS lens and the battery fix is very cheap and effective. No need. The Zhiyun Weebill is 400 and does a great job. Smaller, lighter, more portable, battery goes forever with the bmpcc. Gotta be close to 8 or 9 hours. Attached a photo of my setup. I'm working on a project with vintage C mount lenses. Not trying to win some sort of depth of field contest. The camera has beautiful texture and looks great at F8 or F11. OLPF shows up next wee
  12. Agreed! Started shooting 35mm stills on the OM1 like 6 years ago. Recently, medium format or fully auto point and shoot cameras. The Olympus Stylus Epic takes great photos. I think you can learn a lot about lighting and composition by constantly shooting stills, plus its a lot of fun.
  13. True. I own a Bolex Super 16 with the pistol grip. The weight and 3 point contact make for extremely nice handheld footage. A pistol grip / EVF / would probably work really well on this camera as well. The weight should be good as long as the lens is heavy enough.
  14. The BMP4K weighs less than the mag on an SR3! A 105mm with no shoulder rig and multiple points of contact won’t end well. The balance, weight and ergonomics of the rig are huge factors to how smooth the shot looks.
  15. I paid 400 for the optitek or whatever it is. (Since then I have sold the whole setup.) That’s kind of a lot if you’re paying 900 for the body. It’s just nice to have image stabilized lenses as an option. Not sure what they go for these days
  16. I’ve used both the Fs700 and the F3 quite a bit. The F3 is in a different class with color and skin tone. The image itself is also quite a bit cleaner. I remember having to over expose by two stops constantly with the FS700. The high frame rate features on the FS700 are amazing, but if you’re shooting primarily 24 and 60p, the F3 is great. Keep in the mind, the F3 uses a different mount. They do make an adapter for EF, which can be found for a reasonable price on eBay. Also, to get the most out of it, you’ll want an external recorder. The black magic video assist is cheap and works w
  17. I’ll add to this. I own the C70. It’s a great little camera. Really fun to use. The BMD color looks great but I think the Canon gets you there a bit quicker and easier. The Canon seems to do better in mixed / poor lighting conditions. Battery Life (7 hours with the a60) Dual Slot record. Dual slot to proxy or duplicate backup. Full frame FF with adapter RF to PL lens options Reliability. (Some trust BMD 100 percent. We know many of those people exist.) Matching to other Canon Cinema Cameras. Netflix Approved (whatever.) Noise. The C70 is REAL clean in th
  18. I wasn’t kidding before, you really need to go shoot a roll of 35mm stills! Reading about the stuff will only go so far! It is clearly incredibly difficult to explain why film is good, especially when it needs to be explained in a very analytical way. Deakins just uses the regular Arri LUT that Yedlin seems to hate and it looks amazing. Sicario looks better than knives out, no? They both look “filmlike.”
  19. You could easily say the same about VHS or Hi8 in the 90s and early 2000s...
  20. You should try shooting a roll of 35mm still. The skin tone, color, and look are you get from film are absolutely amazing. It just looks right. I would imagine the guys on that colorist forum are likely a lot of veteran colorists that most likely value work flow over everything. I know this dude grades a ton of stuff shot on 35mm. Beautiful work. https://www.company3.com/artists/stefan-sonnenfeld/
  21. Right. I would also wonder if everyone's financial situation / the lack of traveling might explain an even further drop. Any used 35mm or Medium Format gear right now is $$$.
  22. I’ve kind of noticed the same. The Canon provided LUTs still need a little additional work to get the image to a nice place. Where are you getting noise? From my tests, I wouldn’t consider it to be an offensive amount of noise, but I am also not seeing a huge improvement with the DGO sensor, when compared to the C300 Mkii. I felt the Rec.709 straight out of camera looked really really bad on skin. Can you post some samples?
  23. Availability. They’re really hard to get ahold of. I just got one of a few from a local shop here in Seattle. Seems very good so far. My vintage Olympus and Nikon glass with adapters also hit infinity perfect, meaning the flange distance is properly calibrated (this was an issue with the metabones right out of the box.) my 35mm F2 IS works great with the speed booster and AF. I don’t really have much to say besides the adapter works as it should.
  24. Interesting that you say that. I own the 24-105 RF and I can tell you that the EF version has a stabilizer that is smoother for video work. The EF version has more of a pleasing sway, while the RF version can feel jumpy. I will be selling and purchasing the EF version that is better for video and half the price! I also find the third "control ring" to be incredibly annoying. This wouldn't be as much of an issue with a prime lens, but when there's 3 gears on a lens, it becomes really difficult to operate on the fly.
  25. You are correct in your research. Let me rephrase what I said. I believe that if you're after that overall softer / filmic look, the bmpcc will get you there easier and quicker. There's no sense shooting with a GH5 if you can get that look with less work. A colorist friend of mine often says, "the least amount of moves wins.
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