Grimor

Someone already said it before !! ?

Someone already said it before !! ?

For the International Women's Day.
This time my Kowa 16H was pairing with a Ultron 40mm.

I think even ios version is not available anymore.
Maybe. with some luck, someone who knows how to make android apps, and who knows how lumix cameras talk with phone, who have 3 letters in his nick name, can make similar product. Full screem liveview with selectable desqueeze ratios!!!

Well, he makes no sense through most of that video but was absolutely right about one thing - when he said "I don't know the technicalities of what's actually going on".
My understanding would be this:
HLG includes the whole DR of the camera and the other profiles he tested don't FCPX is confusing him..  here's what I think is happening: FCPX takes the HLG file (which isn't clipping anything) and then converts it automatically to rec709, "clipping" it heavily but retaining that data in super-whites When he makes adjustments to lower the exposure those values above 100 get brought back into range He thinks that FCPX pushing the exposure beyond 100 somehow means the GH5 "clipped" (it didn't) He things that lowering the exposure in FCPX and getting the highlights back means you can somehow recover clipped highlights (you can't) If something is clipped then the values are lost (digital clipping is data loss) FCPX is "helping" by automatically doing things without asking you TL;DR - HLG has greater DR; exposing for HLG is different than rec709; FCPX is "helping" and confusing people; and this guy isn't the person to be listening to for this stuff.

I was betatester of an ios app called "scopes". Way better than imgapp for anamorphics. Full screen on ipad with desqueeze in several flavours (1.3x, 1.5x , 2x).
 

I was betatester of an ios app called "scopes". Way better than imgapp for anamorphics. Full screen on ipad with desqueeze in several flavours (1.3x, 1.5x , 2x).
 

I've tried the 4:3 4K Photo Mode with anamorphics on my G80/G85 (which shares many features with GX80/GX85) and, to be honest, I got better results when shooting standard 16:9 4K 24fps video.
Rolling Shutter in 4K Photo Mode is worse than in a regular video mode, IBIS doesn't seem to work that good, you can shoot only in 30fps and there is no Cine-D.
Sure, I get even more cropped image and I do have to crop out a lot of pixels, but it works for me.
 
Not saying it's the best solution, but maybe you'll like it more?

Following and retweeting sir.

For the International Women's Day.
This time my Kowa 16H was pairing with a Ultron 40mm.

Reviving this thread, since I became an owner of one of these new single focus solutions.
 
A brief myFM (Евгений Мыреев's single focus) review.
 
I wasn't asked to write it, nor did I get any discount / money / ANYTHING for doing it.
Just my personal, unbiased opinion.
 
Build quality:
It's pretty robust, but light at the same time.
There is some really slight loosness when focusing. It's nothing dramatic, but it's there.
Otherwise, it's quite smooth, but no buttery smooth - just what you could expect from a Chineese helicoid.
I've owned a SLR Magic Rangefinder before and must admit that focusing with the Rangefinder was better than with myFM.
MyFM features M65 threads (both rear and front) which may prove to be quite difficult to mount.
I contacted Arkadiusz Kroma (who happens to live in my close vicinity, hahaha) and after providing him with some measurements, he managed to produce an amazing front clamp that fits myFM and golden Isco Ultra Star just perfectly.
Just to let you know: I realize it’s quite a controversial mod, but I had my Isco lathed in order to mount a diopter as close to the front glass as possible. Arkadiusz took into account and his clamp sits just above Isco’s barrel.
 
Optics:
Now, this is where it shines.
Test setup: Panasonic G80 / G85 + Helios 44-4 (58mm f/2), both with and without Viltrox EF-M2 + Isco Ultra Star 1st gen; all photos took at f/2
I attach sample photos and a link to RAW files so you can judge it yourself, but I’m pretty amazed.
(They may be misaligned and I'm deeply sorry for it. Had to hold the anamorphic adapter in my hand, because I'm waiting for a proper lens collar.)
Order of photos attached to the post:
1 - no speedbooster, no anamorphic adapter,
2 - no speedbooster, anamorphic adapter, no single focus,
3 - no speedbooster, anamorphic adapter, single focus
4 - speedbooster, no anamorphic adapter,
5 - speedbooster, anamorphic adapter, no single focus,
6 - speedbooster, anamorphic adapter, single focus
Sharpness and contrast seem to be unaffected, even wide open.
It does introduce some tiny chromatic aberration on edges of the frame, but it’s almost unnoticeable, especially when compared SLR Magic RF, which in this field is just awful.
Coatings look gorgeous. They are mostly purplish, but sometimes show a bit of amber.
Flares: Fortunately, there is no blue blob or any other creature, haha.
I don't know why, but it seems to mute reflected flares just a little.
Take a look at the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUa6B7E6oUM
It’s also worth noting, that myFM works as a delicate wide angle converter. It widens your field of view by 0.92x
 
And the biggest drawback: vignetting.
Since myFM is built with ~62 mm diameter glasses, it won’t allow you to go as wide as HCDNA or FVD-16A do.
With my setup, I get a noticeable hard vignette.
58 mm * 0.695 (Viltrox EF-M2) * 0.92 (myFM wide angle abilities) * 2 (G80 crop) = 74.17mm (35mm eqv.)
Just by removing Viltrox from the equation, I get a 106mm eqv. and no vignette.
 
Right now, I don’t own any lenses between 58 and 135 mm so I can’t perform more tests.
I hope I’ll be able to adapt my Schneider 75/2 soon.
 
Questions?
Regards!
 
Link to samples:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IwkW08EzCk6o5lf4m3bFVii0Brd2OtR1/view

Sin título23

Does anyone else seem to remember that this question has popped up on here previously at some point?
As far as I recall, the general consensus was that you need to go into the Settings menu of the camera and make sure "Motion Cadence Colour Science Mojo" is set to ON.
Have a go with the Search option just to make sure I've remembered correctly though.

Imminent.

of no particular audio importance probably  just throwing some ideas out there you could try the local electronics mall for a darth vader voice thingy i have an idea they can be adjusted somewhat. i also have noticed some popular songs seem to have the vocals that turn into musical notes some how, no idea how its done. i remember a pink floyd song where the lead singer had some sort of wind pipe instrument taped to his mic which did some weird things to his voice as he sang. probably all abit extreme for your requirements but thats all i can offer. anyone one with some experience with those musical looping machines ? they do some interesting things as well. ironman... er  ironfilms should be your goto man here his knowledge should be vast
edit: by the way if your going to start wearing masks, i dont want to meet up with you in any dark alleys late at night ?

It's seen to be full featured 60 days free to try .
I'll take a look.

For 22 years I've been a full-time police officer and the last 5 amateur cinematographer. One of my bosses thought it would be good if he created video material for the police. I currently belong to the press area so I'm lucky to be able to do my hobby during working hours.
In the tech side, kowa is prominar 16H, and car mount is camtree g51.
 

Also if you're just starting out from scratch,  then you could really begin with any DAW in the world as you'd be a beginner with all of them. Thus I'd suggest you learn Reaper instead which is a fully featured DAW,  over Audition 

Play around with the dynamics processing first before adding reverb, some eq after that. And then don’t make the reverb too wet!

Her voice actually only has a very, very small amount of room ambience on it so I wouldn't bark up that particular tree in pursuit of that sound.
Here is a tutorial for Audition to click along with for normalising and compressing a voiceover which will get you further along.
Bear in mind though that these things are dependent on the source material so you will likely need to tweak the process (e.g. if you have some big peaks from plosives, then take care of them first before you normalise as they will skew the outcome) but its a good grounding in what you need to be considering.
 
 
Once you have the levels in order then you can move on to sweetening the sound further with EQ which, again, there are good tutorials on his channel for that and further enhancements that you can do in Audition.
 

Well, i store anamorphic and taking lens rigged together with rods and supports. And this way i really dont move it so much.
You can see i use 2 long lens supports: one blocks the taking focus and the other one block anamorphic aligment and focus.

I'm excited to share my new travel film I shot over 4 days in Yellowstone in August. This was my first video on GH5. I learned allot on this shoot. I hope you sit back and watch on a decent screen with some good sound and enjoy some CinemaScope nature bliss. Cheers.
Filmed on the Panasonic GH5. Filmed in HLG and Cine D profiles. Colored with Film Convert. Anamorphic lens used were the Baby Hypergonar 1.75x, Bolex 8/19 1.5x and 16/32 1.5x Anamorphot. The Rectilux 3FF-s variable diopter and closeup lens.
Taking lens used Pentax 300mm DA f4, MeVis 35mm f1.6, Carl Zeiss 100mm f2.8 and Pen F 38mm f1.8 with wide angle attachment in front.
 

Kowa 8z inside FocusModule. Taking lens 90% of the time Minolta pancake 45mm f2. Shot with GH5.
Also done in extreme conditions. We shot the night scenes in -25 °C weather. And we had all those practical effects to do IN location. All our blood pumps broke and we couldn't shoot fake blood as much as I wanted. But that's how it goes sometimes...