tweak

@andy lee Fujinon don't make a 16mm that covers 1 inch format. They do make a 17mm though but it's incredibly hard to modify. I managed to modify one myself but the image circle is still quite small, it didn't cover gh4 4K modes, it may almost cover bmpcc but I still think it may vignette.

I got a 7D recently just for photos with a heavy investment in EF glass, I already had a GH4 for video and shot almost everything in 4K. Since I got MLRaw installed on the 7D and figured it out I haven't even considered picking up the GH4 since... and the 7D raw I'm shooting is only 1066p, not even 1080p haha. GH4 has way more res, but the images are worlds apart, in comparision 7D looks like a film, GH4 looks like a camcorder (even when edited nicely). Made me realise how much I actually want a BM cam. :D

Well Elmo II, 8Z are exactly the same as B&H but cheaper again, although I get your point.

What f stop was this mostly at Seb?

I buy a small grip/lcd combo as the op mentions. Also surprised BM hasn't made one themselves, easy money.

The slower lenses with smaller front elements often pair better. I quite like nFDs but there's many other options out there.

Yes, KB is terrible for that, all over the place. Stick to Lexar, Scandisc, etc.

Hi friends, I'm looking at letting go of my great condition 16H to fund some other projects . Clamp is a RAF adapter that I personally Machined to fit closer to the anamorphic and also to have a flange so a retaining ring can be screwed to the lens (same as a Redstan 2-piece clamp). Right now I'm looking for about 725USD (including the clamp). If you're interested/ have questions don't be shy to PM me.

Have you considered 7D also? I got one for 420USD initially for photos as I already had a GH4 for video, but I found the MLraw to be so nice and easy that it's getting more use than my GH4 now. You can almost shoot 1080p and you can choose aspects for anamorphic. Don't buy KomputerBay cards, they are a total lucky dip (do some searching through ML forum and you will read that). I've read the Lexar cards are pretty consistent with their speeds, I've got a 128GB 1066X which you can shoot about 30mins of MLraw on. (Cost was about 100dollars). I've read a lot about people not liking the aliasing and such of the 7D but I haven't really had a big issue with it in any of my shots yet and for the price I couldn't be happier. It may well lead me to getting a BM cam in the future.

^That post is from 2012... Tony's back to the future man. He's probably buried in a pile of clamps that got "lost in the mail" .

What are you going to do with it? Keep it in pristine condition in a box until you die? Use the thing! I have a 17mm FD that I also love.

Just give it to me, it's done.

Nice work!

No.

What Rich said above. But my main reason for saying that is because there's no way I'm going to carry around a bazooka to shoot anything! hahaha.

My Elmo has pretty strong flares, but my 8Z blue flare is the strongest, it will flare from anything (and it looks nice unlike some other blue flares from certain brands). I also prefer Metric.

I've had 2 x Elmoscope II, 2 x 8Z and 1 x B&H. One 8Z had Gold flares, one Blue flares. The Blue one flared the easiest of any lens I've owned. Both Elmo Scopes were Gold flares, Both B&H were Gold flares. The Elmo IIs I had seemed to flare a bit easier than the B&H. The one I kept and use the most now is an Elmo II, but I think it's really dependent on production factors as to which is the sharpest/ best. They all can be good.

As Ken says, B&H has 54mm threads, Some 16-H/8Z have 50mm, some have 52 (from my experience). Size of rear element and front element between the two are exactly the same. Coatings can differ, but I've also seen 8Z/16-H with exact same coatings as the B&H. 8Z/16H is easier to adapt in my opinion and the unpainted metal around the back is nicer (from a personal view).

I think the idea of bigger squeeze is great. I think Cosmo made a 3.75 which would be cool. I don't really like the idea of two scopes in a pathway, but modifying two scopes to build one scope with a bigger squeeze is good I think.

I remembered who it was, it was Cosmo that was talking about this, he actually did this already a while back and posted the results on the Anamorphic Shooters FB group.

I'm at the point where I'm only selling doubles... I think I have a problem.

Good idea Ken, I would definitely try that if I wanted a bigger squeeze.

My setup for you. FOV is certainly wider, but I can also achieve that same width with 1 anamorphic and a lot less hassle. DOF wasn't noticably better to my eye, but I'm also not really in search of anything shallower than I can already achieve, I usually don't shoot wide open much anyway (close ups often at f4-5.6). The best part about it was trying to work out how it would look de-squeezed, it's like christmas when you see the end result .

Settle down . I remembered that the person in question was also asking me about this in order to shoot regularly and have ultra wide panoramas (could indeed be someone else). My FB account has a lot of messages, it's pretty hard to scroll back through them all to find something. I tested it today with the setup I described above. (FD50mm, Kowa 8 2x, Kowa 8z, GH4). Worked fairly well. Overall I would say - - More abberations and CA than 1 scope (that's a given). - Incredibly hard to focus (must focus 3 times unless you have a VD unit). - Very hard to align all 3 lenses exactly (this now becomes even more important than with 1 adapter and taking lens). It was cool to try it out but for my tastes any gain in resolution or loss of RS doesn't really outweigh the drop in quality and the awkward handling/ excess bulk (GH4 RS doesn't really annoy me that much). I like messing around with stuff, so cheers for the idea!

Are you the guy who was talking to me about this a while ago? Someone on FB was asking me various questions with this in mind, just can't remember the name. I actually think a better setup for this could be a Kowa 8-2x with a Kowa Elmo II (or 8z) in front of it. The baby scope has a much smaller front optic so would pair well with a bigger 2x like the 8z. Also with the 8z you could keep the flares the same colours. I still have a feeling this wont work as well as you think it will, but I will test it out tomorrow when I'm at home if you like. 35 or 50 on GH4 will probably work I think.