Nikkor

The cheapest solution could be something like the Benro S6/7/8, next option could be a Sachtler Ace and that's that.
You can do some moves with the Benros if you weight them right, Ace is great for dSLR/mirrorless.

I like my nikon glass, but I mostly use a phase one. Funny, isn't it?
Fanboyism is nothing new,neither is forum narcissism.

Do you guys hold stock options at Sony? 

Do you guys hold stock options at Sony? 

Do you guys hold stock options at Sony? 

What I have noticed is that lenses with large front elements have less vignetting, so the dof is not only shallow in the center but also in the corners. (Compare shots in a classic 50 1.4, the corners will be as dark and dof won't change when stopping down to f2.8.

massive grip.. looking good nikon!

I have a good feeling about this system, with a very big mount they can make big lenses near the sensor that correct the light angle to be peroendicular to the sensor, resulting in tiny spectacular lenses. Please someone with actual optics knowledge correct me on this.

I need a cheap fluidhead that can handle a eos m with máx 70-200 lens and a nikon d800 with the same lens.
Ideally it would be cheap (150€  ), light and small.
I would like to be able to do precise movements. Years ago I bought a manfrotto 500 something and it would always ruin the shot if I let go of the handle. 

The nikkor 50mm f2 ai is probably the best one, instant cinematic. Pairs pefectly with the nikkor-o 35 f2 PRE-ai. Both have very special bokeh,and smooth rendering.
The zeiss is the best in your list,very good lens, but too contrasty and nervous for my taste. This lens will sort of match with modern lenses.

Thought to myself
"I'll just pop in to the BMPCC4K thread and ask about the crop factor versus the Kinefinity..."

 

Finally!!! I already have the cheap chinese speedbooster, it's pretty bad but it will do the job for what I want.

Here's my first quick test with mv1080 full sensor recording on the eos m (1736x1120), no crop and continuous recording in 14 bit lossless raw. I'm happy with the image quality and moire isn't too bad. I think youtube softens the image slightly, so have uploaded at 1440p which hopefully looks a bit better:
 
@webrunner5 In crop mode at 2520x1080 or 2520x1386 the ef-m 15-45mm lens is 50-150mm full frame equivalent (3.33x crop). With a 0.71x speed booster that will be a 2.36x crop - so using an ef-s 10-18mm (modified to fit speed booster), that would result in 24-43mm full frame equivalent. The ef-m 15-45mm won't work with the speed booster.
The river thames video I shot at 2224x1200, which has a crop factor of 3.75x, so the 15-45mm lens was 56-170mm equivalent there. The crop factor changes depending the resolution selected - values can be calculated here: http://rawcalculator.bitballoon.com/calculator_desktop

Finally!!! I already have the cheap chinese speedbooster, it's pretty bad but it will do the job for what I want.

A lot of progress has been made on the EOS M in the last two days and it looks like they've been able to make the camera shoot in mv1080 mode using the full aps-c sensor (no crop) for the first time ever (as opposed to the mv720 mode that the camera was always stuck in). This means that the EOS M will now be as capable as the other digic 5 cameras.... so what I said before about anamorphic shooting changes completely - this will now be a great camera for anamorphic as it can record max 1736x1120 (3:2 aspect ratio) which I think uses the whole sensor height and width. Will do my first test soon - liveview preview isn't working fully yet though. Can't wait for the Viltrox speed booster to be released soon and shoot full frame raw video with this £100 camera!
Here's the forum post and first footage: https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=9741.msg203530#msg203530
 

@mercer the MLV Lite module is nearly able to do all the things the regular raw module does (including sound recording), and it uses less processing power, so I think there's a discussion going on about getting rid of the regular raw module and making MLV Lite the standard one. There  isn't much difference between the two modules in terms of what they're like to use.
The EOS M is only worth using in crop mode, and the current resolution options means it's not great at all for anamorphic filming. The max available resolution till very recently was 2520x1080 (2.33:1 aspect ratio). At this resolution recording is continuous at 10 bit lossless, and nearly continuous at 12 bit lossless. Crop is 3.33x from full frame (which will be 2.36x crop with the upcoming speed booster).
Now it's also possible to shoot up to 2520x1384 (16:9) at 24fps. However when you increase the vertical resolution beyond 1080, the lowest bitrate setting you can select is 14 bit lossless, which limits record times to about 2 seconds only! However, as I'm sure you know with Magic Lantern you can select any resolution lower than the maximum and any aspect ratio you like, to get better record times. For example, with 2224x1200 in 14 bit lossless I currently get 10-15 seconds record time.
The exciting news is that the SD card overclock hack is being developed even further to increase the clock frequency from 160mhz up to the UHS-I maximum of 208mhz. When (and if) that happens then 80mb/s write speed should be possible on the EOS M and other digic 5 cameras (as opposed to 55mb/s write speed that the current hack allows). This should enable continuous recording at 2520x1384.  

Fuck you, the depth is impressive, love it. The 5D is a beast, I wouldn't call this filmic, to me it looks hyper-realistic.

Fuck you, the depth is impressive, love it. The 5D is a beast, I wouldn't call this filmic, to me it looks hyper-realistic.

I decided to test some 48fps with the regular 14bit ML build. I processed it as Alexa LogC 24fps through the MLV App.
As suspected... since it’s less than HD... it’s soft, but for short close ups... it could work in a pinch.
Any updates on the slow motion capabilities with the experimental 10/12 bit modes?

I seems to me that's an super easy way to balance DR, let it clip where you want it, and then fill the shadows with subtle light if the contrast is too high to avoid noise.

I seems to me that's an super easy way to balance DR, let it clip where you want it, and then fill the shadows with subtle light if the contrast is too high to avoid noise.

thank you thank u!!! theres already been shenanigans... broken air conditioner, legit had to reschedule... actress just took another (much better) job... ::sigh:::
mercer, i dont know how to do anything, but those screen grabs actually absolutely represent some very dicey exposing 
those shots were at iso 6400, normally exposed, and then i pulled them way down in post... seemed to take care of the noise nicely (???)
literally no idea what im doing tho lol. wouldnt have shot that high but..... it happened
edit: and im totally exposing by eye, based on my tests. im...... a moron

i am finally shooting my little ml raw film omg wish me luck guyzzz

The old nikon 28-70mm 2.8 with speedbooster is a f1.8 Lens uf you want to compare it to native m43 lenses. 
Buy a copy with broken autofocus, it should cost around 200€  
It's actually pretty good.

forget about canon