ntblowz

A nice side project... Mobile camera tests. It's good fun.
I have so far tested:
Xiaomi Mi 10 Pro Xiaomi Mi 10 Huawei P40 Pro Plus Huawei P40 Pro Huawei Mate 30 Pro Samsung Galaxy S20 Ultra iPhone 11 Pro Max Samsung Note 10+ Oppo Find X2 Pro (OnePlus 8 Pro is very similar) I'll keep it short. The big blog post is coming soon.
But the DXOMark chart is wrong 🙂
Here's my EOSHDMark ranking:
Huawei P40 Pro - 150 Pros: Superbly useful 5x zoom, overall camera quality, nice colours, price. Cons: IR pollution, screen size could be a bit bigger Huawei P40 Pro Plus - 150 Pros: Low light, overall camera quality, nice build. Cons: Lacks 5x module from P40 Pro, 10x module too long for regular use Huawei Mate 30 Pro - 140 Pros: Main camera again is superb like P40 Pro and 3x telephoto not bad either. Nice Samsung Note-like form factor & screen. Cons: Lacks 5x periscope camera of P40 Pro and overall zoom quality Xiaomi Mi 10 Pro - 135 Pros: 8K video and very good main camera, superb screen. Cons: Colours can be a bit clinical, a bit flat, 5x zoom quality is lacking compared to Huawei, back feels & looks cheap Xiaomi Mi 10 - 130 Pros: 8k video and very good main camera, superb screen. Cons: No 3x or 5x zoom modules and back feels / looks cheap. Oppo Find X2 Pro - 110 Pros: A good all-rounder, decent 5x zoom, market leading 3K 120hz screen. Cons: Poor tonality. Oversharpened camera output, beaten by Huawei. Poor choice of back material / weird finish iPhone 11 Pro Max - 105 Pros: Good dynamic range, natural colours, iOS, great build. Cons: Camera hardware dated compared to Chinese competition, poor zoom capabilities. Samsung Note 10+ - 100 Pros: Nice colours and decent main sensor, great form factor. Cons: Dated camera hardware especially compared to Huawei. Samsung Galaxy S20 Ultra - 95 Pros: Great in-hand feel and wonderful screen. Cons: Camera processing feels unfinished and is a complete let down, especially in low light. Mediocre 5x periscope zoom is soft. Main camera is muddy in low light and feels overly binned & over sharpened in good light. Xiaomi Mi 10 soundly beats it with same sensor! Expensive too! Google Play Store and Google Services installed OK on the Huawei phones.
Couple of surprises:
P40 Pro 5x optical zoom is the best on the market. Unfortunately they went crazy with the Plus version which is the flagship ($1000+) handset. That has a 10x optical zoom (240mm). It's way less useful than the 5x (135mm). Also the Plus version has a 3x optical zoom camera module, but I'll take the 5x over that any day. The other area of surprise is with colour - the Leica profiles on the standard P40 Pro are less "consumer". Much warmer and more day-glo on the Plus. One area where the Plus does win though is with build quality and low light. Also, there's fewer colour casts and less IR pollution indoors with black fabric, which come out almost purple on the P40 Pro.
Also the P40 Pro has quite a cool and quite a green cast sometimes, especially in artificial light - and some will prefer the P40 Pro PLUS here. I find the P40 Pro quite artistic and moody looking though.
One thing is for sure - 10x optical zoom lens on a smartphone is quite unique on the market - and when you have a use for it, it does deliver the goods for sure.
Xiaomi Mi 10 Pro / Mi 10 / Samsung S20 Ultra share similar 108MP sensor. Xiaomi THRAAAASHES the Samsung. They just get much more out of it. Especially in low light, where the S20 Ultra is a mushy mess. Even the old Note 10+ has a preferable look in most circumstances to the S20 Ultra, and to make things worse the 5x optical zoom (actually more like 4x glass) is mediocre at best and significantly softer than the P40 Pro. Also the 8K video on the S20 Ultra is heavily cropped and looks dreadful, whereas the Mi 10 and Mi 10 Pro don't have a crop and again get much more out of the sensor in the processing. It is not 8K that pixel peeps well but it does make for very good 4K, even in low light. Downsides to the M10 Pro... the 5x zoom is pretty mediocre and noisy... and the Mi 10 makes do with nothing beyond 2x. Great screens though.
Oppo Find X2 Pro puts in a good effort but it just looks brittle and thin compared to the Huawei on the main wide angle sensor. The ultra wide isn't as good either. The 5x is pretty good - nice and detailed, but dynamic range and colour lag behind the P40 Pro 5x. Indeed, the main sensor output fairs better for dynamic range but not for colour and it is a very over-sharpened output. I like the Oppo implementation of Android. Shame about the boring design of the back and the odd texture of the glass (has a kind of scratchy feel). Absolutely amazing 3K screen running at 120hz but not as bright in direct sunlight as the Xiaomi Mi 10 Pro and Mi 10 standard.
There's a bit of a gap from the Huawei phones to everything else in my view. Especially with regards to tonality and the large 1" sensor look. Also the lenses are less flare prone when not absolutely grease free, compared to the Mi 10 Pro which is particularly badly effected and the Find X2 Pro. The iPhone 11 Pro Max fairs best for flare.
The Apple device still has great dynamic range and the most natural looking colour - almost a flat look, good for filters. However it is distinctly backward from the Huawei and has that 'small sensor look' to it. The zoom is a complete non-starter against the 5x folded optics in the Huawei.
I hope this helps anybody looking at the top 10 of DXOMark.
The Xiaomi Mi 10 Ultra I have not yet tried but output looks a bit brittle and thin compared to the Huawei P40 Pro to me, judging by their own samples on the site. The zoom looks good. It shoots 8k. I shall have to try it.
Oh and the Mate 30 Pro is my choice for a more "Note 10" handling style of Huawei phone - The main sensor is just as good as the P40 Pro in my opinion. Colours seem a bit closer to the Plus than the standard P40 Pro. Sometimes too consumer. But sometimes better with improved WB and less casts in low light. The 3x zoom is good in daylight. Less so in low light. It doesn't have the wow factor of the 5x on the P40 Pro though.
I really wish Huawei had kept the 5x zoom on the P40 Pro Plus with the lovely build quality and ceramic back. I really wish they'd corrected the colour casts and IR pollution without throwing out the "Leica look". It can apply HDR too strongly sometimes even in the Leica profiles. The P40 Pro standard model does this too sometimes but not as often. Maybe they couldn't fit the 10x module and 5x into one phone!!
DXOMark's numbers are too close together and don't reflect the differences in main sensor image quality well enough either:
P40 Pro - 128 X2 Pro - 124 Mi 10 Pro - 124 Mate 30 Pro - 123 S20 Ultra - 122 The biggest problem is that S20 Ultra score - there is no way it is even in the same league as the others, especially in low light. Mate 30 Pro is significantly more than 1 point better than the S20 Ultra.
Also there should be more than 4 points between the P40 Pro and the Oppo Find X2 Pro.

So....
It's obviously no secret that alongside developing the AFX add on, we've also been busy creating a version of it with an interesting additional feature.
More development details will be announced about it when the AFX is available for pre-order.
In the meantime, here are some examples of the additional feature.
Can you, erm,"detect" what that additional feature might actually be doing?
 

Nice with 3 year warranty & extra battery! I also pre-ordered today, the free Sigma 45 2.8 is too good to pass, my friend pre-ordered the body and Sigma 24-70mm 2.8 L mount combo.

So I took the plunge. One Panasonic ambassador told me about an interesting offer with a shop in France. Besides the Panasonic offer with the Sigma 45mm offered for free, this shop will give you 3 years more warranty + a free battery. I thought it was a good deal so I pre-ordered it. I am pretty sure I would do it as I need another body to complement my S1H but this offer made me purchase it right away.
So it should arrive by the end of september/beginning of october. I will put it through its paces as I have some interesting jobs coming along, especially one shooting a documentary for the french national television service (France Television) if it is delivered in time.
So I'll give you all my first feedback really quick I think.
Pretty excited by this camera as it is the one I was waiting for in the L-mount system : a smaller camera than my S1H that could still shoot awesome video to match with the bigger brother, being quite smaller to be my B-cam/gimbal cam, also my main stills camera, and one that I could bring everyday to shoot some street and mundane photography (without the hassle to release the S1H from the rig/cage between pro gigs) and one camera that I could take on vacation without sacrificing any quality in stills picture and video.

This has NOT worked for me on the R6. A battery door hack/ dummy battery is needed.
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=24827.msg230592#msg230592

https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/news/is-this-camera-company-the-first-casualty-of-the-us-china-trade-war
Z-cam is also in trouble.. interesting to see Z-cam use the same chip powered by Huawei phone... is that why they can do 4k 160p on the same sensor as bm4k & gh5s due to brute power of their cpu?

I've created a web-based javascript app that lets you quickly set the camera's clock to +1 day and -1 day to help automate visionrouge's workaround. It only works in browsers that allow you to disable CORS Policy Security. Unfortunately none of the mobile web browsers available support that option, so for now this is limited to home/office/studio use.

Here is the link to the app: http://www.testcams.com/ccapi/datehack.html

Full instructions including how to disable CORS Policy security are in the GitHub repository: https://github.com/horshack-dpreview/canondatehack.html

Interesting to know only Panasonic prores raw give u full control, Nikon's one is the worst, all other only allow ISO but no WB control, and WB is the one that is the most important!
 
 

UPDATE:
I have tried the date/time trick without defeating the battery door sensor. Just pull the battery as normal and it works.
https://www.eoshd.com/news/magic-lantern-users-create-practical-canon-eos-r5-overheating-timer-workaround/

No, No need to do anything

It's very simple.
Canon do a very simple calculation.
When camera is running, a counter is setup. When the counter reach a certain level, you have a warning logo.
If you keep recording, the Log will become a shut down. This raise a flag that I will call "Fake Overheating flag"

At each of these step Canon is writing the exact time this occurs. Let's call it the "overheat start time".
This is done in an eeprom that is kept even if you remove the battery. The writing occurs when you shut down with the power button. This is the mistake right there.

There are only one way of getting the camera to work again is to wait extra time.
Canon do a simple calculation between "actual time" and "overheat start time". This way, even if the camera is off without battery, they can keep the time running with the help of the RTC.
It's a way of doing coding something very fast.

They also put a conditional test on "Fake Overheating flag" to make sure changing the time during the overheat mode will not change this calculation. My best guess is that they modify the "overheat start time" with the same value the camera time is shifted in this condition only. So each tentative to play this way is not working.

But I have the impression that the new "overheat start time" is written ONLY when the camera is power down. The new real time is written immediately.
So by dropping the battery, you are avoiding the "overheat start time" to be written and only the last one is in the memory.

When the power is restored, there is the calculation to see if you have been waiting enough. But based on the old "overheat start time", not the one shifted by the time modification. BOOOOM.

So the flag is now remove and the camera can start.
Even better, The camera is writing this new "Fake Overheating flag" value into the EEprom. So you can turn off the right way and it will restart without any problem.

You can now shift the time back, there is no check for a possible "overheat start time" cause we are not supposed to be in overheating mode.

So whatever card you are using, whatever R5 or R6, whatever firmware... it's working.
That was my idea at first when I noticed that the battery drop do not save all parameters. An yes, it works so beautifully.

Well, one tester is not enough, please try to do the experience if you have a R5.
The procedure is explained here.
https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/

In short:
- Power the camera with a external battery and close the door beside the R5 (you can also do the screw trick if you like)
- Record video until you see the overheating logo, or even until the camera shut down.
- Turn off the camera by using the power button so your recording parameters (ISO and so one) are saved.
- Turn back on the power.
- Go to the menu, Change the time of the day to +3 hours at least (or add a day)
- Drop the power by disconnecting the external battery
- wait 30 seconds
- Put back the external battery. the overheat issue should be gone.
(if not, you may actually be in real overheat situation), try in 10mn...
Please share your findings.

Confirmed by dellfonic user on magic lantern.
This is the final refinement on my hack.
You have the right time for your recordings!

In my opinion, this is one of the reasons to upload in 8K with YouTube. It doesn't really matter what display you're viewing it on, phone/laptop/1080p display/4K display, setting the quality to 8K gives you the maximum data rates that YouTube can offer. An 8K upload on a 4K HDR TV looks incredible. Even if your source is 4K, I would use a custom H.265 Media Encoder preset to get an 8K file for YouTube. 
Again, it's not about the resolution it's about the data rate and a 1080p file gives you roughly 29% of the data rates that an 8K file does. 4K gives you about half. So just by uploading an 8K file you get double the data rates for your view port. 

Only 3rd party are not corrected , most Canon EF lens have correction done in camera

An indie feature film shot in anamorphic using the Panasonic S5 :
 

38 minutes of 4K 120fps 🔥is Luckily I don't need that on a every day basis... 😁

Thanks. It's 75C, a new high record for the R5 🥵

Well, well - actually I did test it with my R5. Firmware 1.1.0 - and guess what: it works like at charm.
Let the camera overheat in the 120fps mode. Camera gets really warm. I guess I had something like 20 minutes in total (had to erase the clips from my card again and again). Anyway, after the camera overheated I opened the battery door, blocked the little latch to make the camera think it was closed. Went into the menue, forwarded the date by one full day. Confirmed. Took the battery out, waited some 15 seconds. Put the battery back in, closed the battery door. And here it was: Camera still warm after a short pause of 2 minutes (the time it took to go through the procedure) and what do I see in the display: Full recording time, no overheating sign. LOL. Canon, You've got a loophole there. Does the camera even bother to measure zhe temperature at all?!
Say thank you to yourboylloyd on Magic Lantern Forum.
Chris

Ok, my trick works apparently. Tested by yourboylloyd on Magic Lantern Forum

Record as you wish.
When overheat occur. stop recording. Change the date.
Drop the power (using the screw story or dumb battery)
Put it back.
Timer is gone!
All camera parameters are saved. No need to open the camera, no need to lose your clip.
BOOOMMMMM
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=24827.msg230515#msg230515

 

I will post something on Monday probably that gives a hint of it in operation.
With regard to tracking, just to clarify that the first version does have AF-C so will keep lock as a subject approaches or moves away in the focus zone.
Obviously I think you should buy all of them 😉 
For manual focus lenses you will need a version with the motor interface module so you will have to sit tight for that one for a while longer.
There will be a motor version option of this one following not too far behind.

Yes, this is a big claim.
Allow me to explain how I came to this conclusion, and prove it to you.
First off, the evidence.  This is a video containing 5 compositions that were each shot with either 2K, 2K (and processed in post), or 4K.
It should be easy to tell the difference - so see if you can tell!
Not so obvious is it....
In the video I encourage you to download the video and pixel peep, please do.  
I have pixel peeped the shots directly on the timeline in Resolve, in the output file I uploaded and the YouTube file I downloaded.  It took me zooming in to 200% and finding the place in the video with the finest details, to be able to see the differences, and I know which is which!
Now, the details, to show that the test is valid.
I shot each scene with the GH5 and 42.5mm Voigtlander (stopped down several stops) in either:
4K 422 10-bit ALL-I 400Mbps mode 2K 422 10-bit ALL-I 200Mbps mode (with Resolves Super Scale) 2K 422 10-bit ALL-I 200Mbps mode (with no processing) I exported the timeline to an RGB Uncompressed 10-bit file (65GB - 6,500Mbps!!) and compressed that file using ffmpeg to a 4K 10-bit 422 IPB 225Mbps h265 file, which was then uploaded.  I tried uploading an 10-bit 422 ALL-I file but YT only interpreted that as 1080p.
YouTube then compressed that 225Mbps file to the pathetic 10.42Mbps file you see if you watch the above YT video in 4K.
As far as I can tell, there's nothing I could have done differently to get a higher quality result out of YouTube.
But what about other platforms or delivery methods?
This is just YT.  If you pay for Vimeo, or deliver via any other mechanism that has a higher bitrate than YT this thread should make you feel better about that!
But 4K is useful for things like cropping in post!
Yes, and this test doesn't apply to doing that.  I've tested how much you can upscale an image without it being visible in another thread / test (spoiler, it's something like 150%) but let's leave that aside for now.
But YouTube supports 6K and 8K and ......
Sure, and when people start watching YouTube with their 6K and 8K TVs then they'll start to benefit from that.  Until then, they're getting the 10Mbps file above.
Are you saying that a 4K camera is not required?
There are advantages to having a >1080p sensor.  Downscaled video is much nicer, and there are times when shooting in 4K or higher can have advantages.....
So, when IS it useful to shoot in >1080p?
Lots of times:
Cropping (significantly) in post Overcapture for things like stabilisation If your cameras 1080p isn't that great (which is most cameras TBH) etc. I have nothing against 4K or higher resolutions except that I think most people are making their life harder than it should be thinking that they're somehow getting better results when for many people it simply doesn't matter if they shoot in 4K or not.  This was me.  I fell for the hype, and have gradually been doing tests like this to actually see for myself what is true and what matters - rather than just believing the marketing hype from the camera industry.
Ultimately, the lesson here is that what matters is that you publish in 4K, not that you shoot in it.
Let the questions and comments (and flame wars from resolution fanboys and fangirls) begin...

Unlike contrast based AF systems, the lock speed of the AFX system remains consistent across different lighting conditions.
The benefits of this are particularly apparent in low light or low contrast situations where contrast based systems will have to hunt to achieve lock.
These examples compare the performance of the internal BMPCC contrast based AF with the AFX to illustrate how each system deals with different challenging (too challenging for YouTube's shitty compression by the looks of it) low light and mixed contrast scenes.
 

I'm just on the phone with Shill-U-Like arranging the flights and accommodation for Hawaii for their top 20 influencers so I'll let you know as soon as the date is fixed.