Andrew Reid

I didn't have the 1D C at the time of the A7S review. Not a single one on eBay in 12 months. Had no idea it was about to become available for £5k. And all judgement is relative. The A7S stand-alone is still the "best mirrorless for video" unless you need the internal 4K. I need the internal 4K! That review is of the A7S as a 1080p camera. Now it must be compared with the new NX1 4K internal and how it performs with the Shogun. I wanted the A7S & Shogun image internally, just didn't get on with it as an external box...I couldn't work with the poor visibility of the screen outdoors, the ergonomics of the battery life. Love the image! But not that! If you can't get a 1D C and are considering the A7S then what's different about the review? Nothing. It's only changed for me. The A7S has not. It's the same camera. A used 1D C and it fixed my issues I had with the A7S & Shogun... namely... - Image quality is better - Internal 4K so no need for separate recorder and the ergonomic problems & battery issues that presented - Replaces ALL my other Canon stills cameras for photos - No need to suffer lens adapter bugs - No need to work around colour issues with S-LOG 2 - Avoids bright blue clipping problem - Price was a bargain used considering launch price of 1D C It would be silly for me to get the 1D C if I didn't think it was right for me.

Peaking does work with any lens. The EVF is better for MF as it shows you the actual depth of field. An optical viewfinder is usually F2.8 max.

DigitalEd. What is a quote of Ivar there and what is you? Can you edit it to make it clearer?

It shouldn't do though. A camera's sensor and colour processing should be consistent from skin tone to skin tone, light to light, as long as you have it right at the time the shot was taken. In post you should be able to convert LOG to Rec.709 and have the colour looking great over everything, again if it was right at the time of the shoot! What I find with the A7S is that for every different skin type, every different light source, every different location I am losing hours in post correcting for a very narrow and fickle performance window re: colour. This problem went away with the 1D C and Canon's sensor. Under interior practical lights on the A7S I have a yellow cast. Under bright blue lights I have clipping. In low light I have to expose completely differently. In daylight I have issues with purple reds. I never had the same inconsistent behaviour with my old GH2 shooting without LOG in rec.709. To be perfectly honest, it's bloody distracting. And with Blackmagic raw or 5D Mark III Magic Lantern raw video I can apply the same LUT to the whole sequence and it will all look the same and consistent no matter what the light or subject or skin. I hate spending hours on a grade fixing stuff, when it could be spent editing.

It has a narrow window of peak performance in terms of colour.

​A strange opinion Carl. "The news" is not trolling. And no of course Canon isn't supposed to notify Magic Lantern of anything (although working with them and communicating to their customers would be a start), but the blocking tactic is there for all to see - the inability to take the camera back to V1.2.3. Unless you don't understand the situation Carl.

Not allowed to change your mind on the internet about cameras apparently 1D C CLOG: A7S SLOG 2: Not good is it? When I originally reviewed the A7S I loved the colour, from picking out the odd shot here and there. Afterwards I spent months developing my own LUTs in Resolve that I could blanket onto an entire sequence in Premiere. Didn't work because each scene / lighting needed their own nob fiddling.

The problem I am having with the A7S is that - yes - colour can look lovely after a lot of work grading in post BUT and it's a bigger but than Beyonce's, you can't apply the same grade to every shot, every lighting circumstance needs it's own 2 hours of fiddling in Resolve. That for me is intolerable really. Also the bright-blues clipping issue is a problem, whenever I happen to have a blue light in the background of the shot I can no longer do what I want with the exposure, I have to "manage the problem" and it becomes tiresome. Still love the A7S, it's great for the price but I need colour that's quick to get right and internal 4K, it is not giving me either sadly.

​Hopefully it won't need any add-on software, because it will just do what we want it do out of the box. 4K, proper focus aids, crop modes, nice codec, 422 colour sampling, articulated screen. But it won't because it's not a Cinema EOS camera.

The framing is different on the window, so it's an invalid test for moire unfortunately.

​That's interesting to hear from Art Adams at DVInfo about the luma vs saturation of blues. Film can't do a bright saturated blue. Alexa caps saturation to avoid the same clipping problem of bright blues the Sony cameras suffer from. That's where the knowledge of film comes in useful. Take a hint Sony.

​Multiple ones. Only happens when Smart Range is enabled.

DigitalEd - what about Dynamic Range in the STILLS menu?

Hardware component changes this late in the age of the product are unheard of and wouldn't affect firmware anyway.

Magic Lantern remains blocked as per the article so the reasons behind it are pretty academic at the moment. Don't buy a new body if you want to use ML.

It's likely they also added some form of encryption. BTW Canon - having to send off the 1D C to a service centre for a firmware update is a real PITA for customers!

Canon look to have blocked Magic Lantern and new 5D Mark III bodies which won't roll back to older firmware. Users are presented with an error saying "firmware older than 1.3 on the card, update using newer version". Read the full article

Very nice! That feels like something you can drop now and not hurt it. Some kind of umbrella to keep rain out of the vents now

I can turn on Smart Range + to get the exact same issue but then it vanishes when turned off. Smart Range + in the movie menu only affects image when in standby preview movie mode or whilst recording and the "Dynamic Range" option for Smart Range + / HDR in the stills menu only affects live-view whilst not in standby or recording. Seems to work right and I am on v1.10 as well. Maybe something went wrong with the firmware update. Did it reset all your settings upon upgrading? Did mine! When I first got the NX1 with Smart Range + turned on I was "WTF" as well. Some people who are unawares of what that does are reporting it as a bug when it isn't. You guys seem to have a genuine bug going on with it.

​Advantages - small, light, sharp, AF for stills Disadvantages - expensive for a 35mm 2.8, more than a Sigma 35mm f1.4! Fly by wire manual focus is trickier. No advantage to AF for video. I prefer the FE 55mm F1.8. Should have stabilisation for that price though and the Sigma 50mm F1.4 is as sharp, if not even sharper! Bulkier though. Don't get too heavily invested in sony glass if you might buy a different system later. Canon & Nikon mount Sigma 35 / 50 1.4 will come with you and these lenses will die with your A7S.

Wonder why it only affects some units not others? It's definitely Smart Range + that does the shift. Just tried it and it's a carbon copy of what you're getting. Point at light, image gains up ISO to bring the shadows up. It's definitely turned on and the bug is that you can't seem to turn it off even when disabled in the menus. Hope they fix it quick but very strange, because you'd think a firmware bug would be on ALL the NX1s shipped so far. And you're running V1.10 right?

I can only reproduce the exact same issue when Smart Range + is enabled in the Dynamic Range option, stills menu. You need to switch this off in the movie menu AND stills menu.

Maybe a bug with spot metering or centre weighted, try changing it? Which firmware are you all on? Still unable to reproduce the problem.

Here's an example of what I'm talking about... http://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compare/Side-by-side/Nikon-D3300-versus-Canon-EOS-1Dx___928_753 Nikon D3300 ($399) vs 1D X ($6999) Same score for both - 82. Now find other odd results and do a test... take a real world shot with both cameras and look at colour, feel, noise, general performance, etc. Post the results on here. I will be doing.

At same price you might have a chance on a used 1D C and get the best image in the world though