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holymountain

Isco Animex S8/2X doesn't flare enough?

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Hi guys,

 

I'm a bit of an anamorphic noob. I bought an Isco-Gottingen Animex S8/2x. It's supposed to be the same as a rebranded Iscomorphot 8/2x according to this: 

http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/2331-isco-gottingen-animex-s8-2x/

I bought it for 140 euros in perfect condition so I thought I was getting a great deal. I noticed straight that the image was very sharp. I just couldn't really get  great anamorphic flares out of it. A least not as in this video: 

http://vimeo.com/60401188

Here are some test with the helios 58mm holding the Isco in front of it:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvTMM_m2_Gk&feature=youtu.be  (little bit of an anamorphic flare)

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5voYH6GNYDY&feature=youtu.be (using my phone as a flashlight, no anamorphic flares)

 

Is there a way to make the flares more pronounced or could it be that the lens it MC?

post-34158-0-02559100-1392207525_thumb.j

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Flare is relatively subdued from these Iscomorphot 8/2x type lenses when compared to some other lenses...it seems to be within the isco family coating recipe. In brighter light/ sunset situations however it can look wonderful and golden warm- and it is not too overpowering.

 

The MC helios is not helping at all, it is further dulling the flare sensitivity....kill it with fire.

Use a Helios 44 or 44-2 (older version of your current lens) to get more flare response from this lens as they have more simplistic coatings. A greater matched Helios 44 for this lens would be a DSO  FF58 lens - un-tinted with cleaning marks. This would get you even more flare sensitivity and artifacts you would ever want with that S8.

 

If you want to go crazy, you could de-coat the front optic of the Animex to get much stronger flare sensitivity.

But seriously don't do it...looks like you got a nice clean example there, best to keep it that way.

 

P.s - get a Redstan clamp for that iscomorphot...your arm will get tired soon.

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Maybe the Animex version isn't single coated, but in your second video you really need to move the light back because you're way too close.

Its a fixed focus lens @ 4m, so try that length. But realistically you'll need to put a diopter on the front to get closer.

To really see the flares better/clearer you will need to be spot on with your focusing.

I've gotten some fantastic flares from street lights etc... at night.

 

As Hans has said get the Helios 44-2 (pre-set aperture version) - they are really cheap.

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Thx! This time I focused at 4 m and the result was great: 12488028874_b84c034eaa_c.jpg

 

This made me very happy:) Great moderate flares, not too much. 

I do have a Helios 44-2, at least thats what it says on the lens, or is there some other version? That Dog Schidt lens look good, wonder how flares with the Isco look on that thing. That redstan clamp looks great, but expensive so I will first try a DIY. Any recommendation for an affordable diopter?

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This thread is a v.useful resource:

'?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>>

 

But, if you're not worried about CA etc...just get whatever you can get your hands on cheaply (a +0.5 & +1 will be useful).

 

Also, it would be worth getting a Redstan front & back clamp, as it would be a shame to damage your lens (you got a deal, but i've seen them go for way more than what you paid) - he does do deals (goes by Tony Wilson on this forum).

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This thread is a v.useful resource:
?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>

But, if you're not worried about CA etc...just get whatever you can get your hands on cheaply (a +0.5 & +1 will be useful).

Also, it would be worth getting a Redstan front & back clamp, as it would be a shame to damage your lens (you got a deal, but i've seen them go for way more than what you paid) - he does do deals (goes by Tony Wilson on this forum).

Top advice from Bioskop.

@holymountain..I would say that the money you saved on getting a good deal on the lens should be invested in a quality rear Redstan clamp at least. A front thread can be fashioned from a step ring. I forget the correct size 76-72?, but it will slide over the front of the lens body and can be wedged on by first wrapping the lens body front with a few mm's of PVC electrical tape and pushing the step ring on - giving you a 72mm thread for diopters. This is a decent (no damage) solution for the short term, but no substitute for a proper Redstan front filter clamp.

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There is a much easier way of holding a filkter. 

 

Just unscrew the front nameplate ring ACW and it reveals a 55mm thread

 

just sayin'

 

 

Also this scope is easy to convert to dual focus....

 

How and.... how? Got any links/tips? 

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