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Geoff CB

Your ideal NX1 Settings

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No one is talking about the combo "settings+loglut" by Andrew. If any of you uses it, which lut(s) do you apply after that? I'm having a hard time finding (possibly free) luts that give nice colors and contrast after that.

I personally just use the impulz luts visionspace conversion if I want to "flatten" before grading. Im not sure how you can take 8 but footage and transform it into 10 bit LOG. Visionspace keeps it in rec709 color space

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dope !

I started shooting with the normal gamma profiles, I shot some of these on vivid (namely the two shots with the old man) all at default settings except sharpness down to -10. I didn't use any diffusion filtration on these neither. I've noticed when you shoot flat on this camera that you can get some weird color banding and anomalies, but they do not present themselves often. Using the vision color impulz luts the LUT will pull down the bright highlights and shadows into an acceptable range even with a contrasty picture profile. There is a surprising amount of detail in the nx1 files, sometimes highlights could look blown but there is actually detail there. Shooting -0.3 to -0.6 exposure and I've got better results than with the gamma dr profile. Again the impulz lut's are a good start as they bring the highlights down and the saturation gets a non linear response like film (very saturated colors get reduced and undersaturated gets a slight boost) works really well with the nx1

nx1 eyeball.jpg

nx1 lizard.jpg

nx1 m31 beach.jpg

nx1 m31 cool guy.jpg

nx1 m31 vivid.jpg

I messed around with vivid for a little bit today, nice profile. The colors looks great, weirdly less "vivid" than I thought. I remember an older post where you commented about treating the picture profiles as their own film stocks... I think you are definitely onto something there. 

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Huh, just did a quick test of vivid, it certainly looks great out of camera.

Use to a "vivid" that has horrid colors and contrast cranked to 10.

Yeah, as I said before, I have the NX500, so I lack the DR Gamma update the NX1 had, but I thought the same way as you about Vivid, but after seeing what Kidzrevil has done with it, I gave it a try... And it looks great. 

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Here's a grab from a clip I shot earlier in Vivid. I think the adjusted settings are Saturation -4, Sharpness -10, and Contrast 0. I used a Minolta MD 50mm f2, wide open with an ND. I tweaked the curves a little, and then added Fuji rec709 LUT to it at about 50%.

 

Vivid.jpg

Here's another Vivid, but with this one I used the Minolta MD 28mm f/2 lens and the M31 LUT from Impulz at 100%

Vivid M31.jpg

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Heres my current settings, this is my balance between retaining color and DR, making it easy to grade :

These are : -10 sharpness, -2 Saturation, -3 Contrast +8 Black levels.

OOC:

7CsQ9l0.jpg

Graded :


8L6XXag.jpg

The exposure's about a stop too dark, and your blues are all steely cyan for some reason. Nice DR, but the grade needs work.
 

dope !

I started shooting with the normal gamma profiles, I shot some of these on vivid (namely the two shots with the old man) all at default settings except sharpness down to -10. I didn't use any diffusion filtration on these neither. I've noticed when you shoot flat on this camera that you can get some weird color banding and anomalies, but they do not present themselves often. Using the vision color impulz luts the LUT will pull down the bright highlights and shadows into an acceptable range even with a contrasty picture profile. There is a surprising amount of detail in the nx1 files, sometimes highlights could look blown but there is actually detail there. Shooting -0.3 to -0.6 exposure and I've got better results than with the gamma dr profile. Again the impulz lut's are a good start as they bring the highlights down and the saturation gets a non linear response like film (very saturated colors get reduced and undersaturated gets a slight boost) works really well with the nx1

 

The DR looks good, but I'm not big on milky blacks and everything is blue and orange. Not a fan of those LUTs. Good to hear how much highlight DR you're getting from it, though. It's one of the first things I noticed when I first worked with its footage, and one of the reasons I love the look. Short of the GH4 with V-LOG, it's one of the best highlight rolloffs in this market.

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The exposure's about a stop too dark, and your blues are all steely cyan for some reason. Nice DR, but the grade needs work.
 

The DR looks good, but I'm not big on milky blacks and everything is blue and orange. Not a fan of those LUTs. Good to hear how much highlight DR you're getting from it, though. It's one of the first things I noticed when I first worked with its footage, and one of the reasons I love the look. Short of the GH4 with V-LOG, it's one of the best highlight rolloffs in this market.

yeah dude I wouldnt use the blue & orange look for anything else its too intense, used it to mirror a "common" look since everyone favors the m31 lut

 

Here's a grab from a clip I shot earlier in Vivid. I think the adjusted settings are Saturation -4, Sharpness -10, and Contrast 0. I used a Minolta MD 50mm f2, wide open with an ND. I tweaked the curves a little, and then added Fuji rec709 LUT to it at about 50%.

 

Vivid.jpg

Here's another Vivid, but with this one I used the Minolta MD 28mm f/2 lens and the M31 LUT from Impulz at 100%

Vivid M31.jpg

woah these look great ! Am I the only one that's noticing if you reduce contrast then you HAVE to reduce saturation as well ? Im still tweaking the picture profiles, namely the contrasty gamma c curve. For all these profiles I want the saturation low enough that red's and blues aren't rendering beyond the cameras color gamut where things start to clip in the color channels. Could be the source of all the banding in the sky ? So far it looks like we are making some progress with the vivid setting ??

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yeah dude I wouldnt use the blue & orange look for anything else its too intense, used it to mirror a "common" look since everyone favors the m31 lut

woah these look great ! Am I the only one that's noticing if you reduce contrast then you HAVE to reduce saturation as well ? Im still tweaking the picture profiles, namely the contrasty gamma c curve. For all these profiles I want the saturation low enough that red's and blues aren't rendering beyond the cameras color gamut where things start to clip in the color channels. Could be the source of all the banding in the sky ? So far it looks like we are making some progress with the vivid setting ??

Thanks man, you weren't kidding about vivid. I had heard so much about underexposing on the Samsungs, but it wasn't until I started ettr that I started getting a better feel for it. Like you said, it's insane how much information is in the highlights and with just the slightest of tweaks you can pull it out.  In fact, I think the zebra's are a hair too sensitive on the 500. I've been getting the best color, for my tastes, with contrast at default.

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Thanks man, you weren't kidding about vivid. I had heard so much about underexposing on the Samsungs, but it wasn't until I started ettr that I started getting a better feel for it. Like you said, it's insane how much information is in the highlights and with just the slightest of tweaks you can pull it out.  In fact, I think the zebra's are a hair too sensitive on the 500. I've been getting the best color, for my tastes, with contrast at default.

dude you are absolutely right ! I just did a rough test im seeing its a definite no no when it comes to touching the contrast slider ! I've settled on vivid with sharpness -10 and saturation down to -3. Doesn't blow the red channel and the saturation is still pretty uniform. It's vivid minus the chance of color clipping. I gotta see how well it holds up in the grade. This may be the end of LUTs for me, The Samsung colors with a little tweaking can be the next big thing. Modern day reversal film stock for sure

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dude you are absolutely right ! I just did a rough test im seeing its a definite no no when it comes to touching the contrast slider ! I've settled on vivid with sharpness -10 and saturation down to -3. Doesn't blow the red channel and the saturation is still pretty uniform. It's vivid minus the chance of color clipping. I gotta see how well it holds up in the grade. This may be the end of LUTs for me, The Samsung colors with a little tweaking can be the next big thing. Modern day reversal film stock for sure

The consensus with the NX was that contrast was supposed to be at -5, so that's where I left it for months, but the colors were off, no matter what I did with saturation I couldn't get a uniform look. Either the blues or the reds were off. The yellows, and greens never looked right. Then I saw a video and the guy left the contrast at 0 and bingo, the colors looked great. 

The classic black and white is pretty nice too. Do you shoot any black and white, if so, do you get it in camera, or in post?

But then again, Ed David was shooting with -10 contrast and he was getting some pretty good looks. 

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The exposure's about a stop too dark, and your blues are all steely cyan for some reason. Nice DR, but the grade needs work.
 

This wasnt final grading, I totally agree with you ! Will post some improvements over these, and other shots.

Gotta try those vivid settings though, might look great, anyone tried them at night ?

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The consensus with the NX was that contrast was supposed to be at -5, so that's where I left it for months, but the colors were off, no matter what I did with saturation I couldn't get a uniform look. Either the blues or the reds were off. The yellows, and greens never looked right. Then I saw a video and the guy left the contrast at 0 and bingo, the colors looked great. 

The classic black and white is pretty nice too. Do you shoot any black and white, if so, do you get it in camera, or in post?

But then again, Ed David was shooting with -10 contrast and he was getting some pretty good looks. 

i actually didn't like the grade of that video. -10 contrast flattens the image to the point of tonality being smushed together its weird and plasticky.  BUT I see he was going for like a 16mm film effect so I guess it worked. I prefer the look of his NX1 test video. Im tired of trying to make digital footage look analog. Need to start accepting the aesthetic these cams give and run with it lol

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i actually didn't like the grade of that video. -10 contrast flattens the image to the point of tonality being smushed together its weird and plasticky.  BUT I see he was going for like a 16mm film effect so I guess it worked. I prefer the look of his NX1 test video. Im tired of trying to make digital footage look analog. Need to start accepting the aesthetic these cams give and run with it lol

Yeah, sorry I was actually referring to the test video... Should have written that before the b&w comment. Anyway, according to the description, he shot the NX1Test video with negative 10 contrast.  I messed with it a little and found it a tad frail, but definitely grade able... Unsure if you really get anything more out of it though. But it does seem like the color is uniform. I'll post some before and after grabs later. 

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Yeah, sorry I was actually referring to the test video... Should have written that before the b&w comment. Anyway, according to the description, he shot the NX1Test video with negative 10 contrast.  I messed with it a little and found it a tad frail, but definitely grade able... Unsure if you really get anything more out of it though. But it does seem like the color is uniform. I'll post some before and after grabs later. 

please do ! 

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please do ! 

Okay, here is a shot I took yesterday testing the -10 contrast with a custom profile. Otherwise, I had Saturation at -4 and Sharpness at -10. I just tweaked the curves and threw on an M31.

 

 

Vivid -0 Contrast OOF Camera.jpg

Vivid -0 Contrast M31.jpg

Ok, and here is one I took today. This one is in vivid. The first shot is 0 contrast and the second is -10 contrast. I basically, adjusted the curves until I was able to get the waveforms to almost completely match, then I added an m31 LUT to them both. The one with -10 contrast has the LUT at 100%, the 0 contrast has the LUT at 50%.

Vivid 0 Contrast.jpg

Vivid -10 Contrast.jpg

I think the 0 contrast looks better and requires less fussing. I think it also has a warmer feel to it, but I'm sure a better colorist could pull that out more. But it does seem like you gain a half stop with the -10 contrast.

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