92F

The OP of that post claims V-Log and HLG are unaffected. Also, her tests of the normal profiles were in 8 bit, AFAIK.

https://helpx.adobe.com/premiere-pro/using/color-management.html

Just an observation after limited testing, but it seems to me that when using EF lenses (and maybe others?) when there are multiple people in frame and human detect AF is on then the camera often randomly shifts between people, which is very annoying.
However, if I turn off AF detect settings completely and switch to AF tracking mode then I can just tap on one person and it's very good at holding that person until I tap elsewhere.
 

The GH6 needs PDAF. 

Yeah must admit it seems to be the best looking footage I have ever seen out of a Red camera.

My first impressions on the blog:
https://www.eoshd.com/news/panasonic-10-25mm-f1-7-first-impressions-sample-shots-from-gh5/
Any questions let me know!

Maybe a sign Sony are overtaking Canon & Nikon in sales figures.
A YouTuber's favourite camera is the one that generates the most affiliate commission with B&H.

reading this forum is so frustrating. why would you ever use a speedbooster on a s35 sensor (or ever really)? it's the most standard format for moving images. if you need "proper full frame" on s35, just shoot a stop wider than you would on FF, and open up your iris an extra stop, maybe add a stop of ND if you're clipping. that's it. there's nothing special about this sensor size.

if you want a 24mm t/2.8 on FF, just use the 18mm of the same lens set, and set it to t/2 to match the dof on the fx30 or xh2s. if you want to match a 24mm at t/1.5, then sure, that's most likely not possible, but it's not gonna look very nice anyway, is it?
how about just using the right lens set for the right camera, and being a bit more thoughtful, instead of bulking up your camera with oversized lenses and a low quality layer of glass in between?

how often do you need a dof thinner than t/2.8 on s35 (or t/4 on ff) for that matter? if most of the image is blurred out mush, i tend to assume its not worth watching anyway.

Good thing we shoot 25p here so 1/50 is perfect lol

I remember @Emanuel raising the possibility of using Micro Four Thirds glass on Fuji cameras.
Well I asked RAF Camera to make a prototype for EOSHD and here it is.




So in past year I have been experimenting with a lot of M43 glass on the Super 35mm sensor of the Fuji X series cameras.
We see beyond the usual 2x crop image circle!
Here's what I found:
- X-T4 has a Micro Four Thirds 2x crop mode in the menus. So you can use anything on that, basically.
- The adapter doesn't have any electronics capabilities (maybe later?) so I have only been trying manual focus lenses
- Voigtlander super fast F0.95 primes look lovely on a Fuji!
- Some M43 lenses even cover the entire Super 35mm sensor
- X-H1 is 1.7x crop in 4K so that works well, as it is closer to the 1.86x crop of the GH2 or multi-aspect sensor Panasonic bodies
- The affordable Meike cinema lenses work brilliantly as these are all Super 35mm lenses just different mounts (they come in Fuji X-mount versions and Micro Four Thirds, with same optics for both)
- SLR Magic stuff very tasty with it especially on the X-T4 in 2x crop mode
- Focus to infinity is fine (sometimes slightly over even)
So I am wondering, how much interest would there be in an EOSHD branded adapter for Fuji X cameras, that enables you to use Micro Four Thirds glass?
This is the only adapter in the world of this type.
I have been wondering how many of you have both Micro Four Thirds mount glass and Fuji cameras, maybe you switched but didn't sell all your GH5 lenses? Maybe you are just curious to turn your X-T4 into a GH6? Or interested to discover the unique images made from one of your exotic Micro Four Thirds mount lens on an X-H2S?
Also rather than buy separate lenses for Fuji and Panasonic you can use one set on both systems (as in Meike 25mm T2.2 for instance!)
If there is enough interest in the adapter I'll put RAF on notice and finally start that Indiegogo up!

FWIW, he went from C70 to FX3 to R5 to R5C.. and now back to R5?! all in the span of 10 months lol. 

I always laugh when they want you to buy a 2500 dollar camera and they show the results using 100,000 dollars of shit and a crew of 10 to get the shot.

Is anyone else finding the skin tones and general image to be very video-like? More so than even the xt2?  Every video I’ve watched today actual was like an ad not to buy into this system.  

I you are happy I am happy. 🤐 But I agree with you, for the average person on here less is better in the long run. If you are not doing heavy grading why shoot 400mb/s. Hell, I was looking through some of my older stuff because one of my drives was getting full and Jesus, I had like 30 OG BMPCC Raw DNG projects on there. It was taking like a 1/4 of the damn drive up. And don't even ask about the Canon 1DC files. 😬
People that want the Sigma FP need their head examined if they want to shoot Raw out of it. Grab your ass on storage space.
I don't even need to turn the heat on in the room where my box computer is, it does all the heat I need!

I haven't tested any of these things but from what I've read online there's very little to worry about. I think I remember reading that you can set the fan on low if you're worried about fan noise with an onboard mic.
It's too mild in Ireland to test these things. We're supposed to be experiencing Europe's heatwave at the moment. Here in Dublin the highest temperature today was 27C 😂

I don't like it either! Especially when doing long interviews 😞
I definitely thought I noticed a difference between the GH5 and S series cameras. But, forgetting about noise, high ISO performance and recovering from bad exposure and concentrating only on the "organic" versus "artificial" continuum I don't see a difference between the GH5 and GH6 set at the same exposure when examining single frame. Here are some examples. Both cameras are ISO 400 V-Log and have been colour and exposure matched. GH5 is first, then GH6 in each pair:
 

 


That's what I mean about the image being essentially identical for my purposes. Maybe the detail is slightly finer and less coarse in the GH6??
Of course, this comparison ignores temporal characteristics (maybe the noise pattern is nicer on the GH6?) as well as the extra dynamic range in DR boost which will differentiate it from the GH5, as well as the VLog colour being a nicer starting point on the GH6 if you're just going to use Panasonic's luts.
That is a very good point!

I need more time to get a feel for it.
We've just moved back from NZ to Ireland and have been preoccupied with finding a place to live. I mainly shoot video for corporate work that I do, very little for family stuff or for pleasure/creativity. Since we've returned I've done one major job but I used the GH5 as I didn't want any curve balls that the GH6 might throw my way.
So I've really only pressed record on it a handful of times, doing a few tests. From the little I've shot with it, it seems like the battery life is really shit compared to the GH5 and a USB power source will be necessary. I don't use rigs, so I was thinking even just having one in the bag to charge up the last battery when it's been used. That might be enough to get me through a half day shoot.
DR boost gives you an extra stop in the highlights. That's it. So if you think of your average GH5 scene and where it clips, then DR boost will give you one stop more info, at the cost of using heavy NDs in most situations. I've got as far as a 5 stop Tiffen solid ND to stick under my SLR Magic Vari ND II, but am considering the Nisi True Colour to replace the SLR Magic as it probably has less colour cast (which is not so important to me) and possibly slightly less polarisation (which is the real ass kicker with vari NDs, I think).
I've satisfactorily matched the colour from the GH6 and GH5 in V-Log, and the image is thus practically identical for my purposes when not using DR boost. If you set the GH5 to minimum sharpness and noise reduction it's the same as the GH6 in terms of detail/sharpness/artificiality/organicness (except there may be differences in noise which I haven't examined in great detail), so the choice to use one or the other for me now comes down to functionality and ease of use.
I do miss the easy 2x digital zoom for HD like on the GH5 as discussed previously in this thread.
Having said all that, there are a few things that I really like a lot about the GH6:
- Red frame when recording. This is a lifesaver. I've often lost shots from having gotten into the wrong record/stop button pressing cycle
- Punch in while recording to check focus
- Luminance spot meter. This is not for everyone but it's amazingly useful for me as another exposure tool
- Usable AF using Panasonic lenses (anything I've checked on the Speedbooster is hopeless). Maybe once a year I need to do a static shoot of people walking down a corridor towards camera, chatting. The AF will do a better job than I can and give the 2 or 3 seconds of usable footage that I need.
- Confidence that I can shoot in low light if needed. Previously I've never needed more than 3200 ISO (most shots are on a Tamron 24-70 2.8, which is f1.8 on a Metabones XL) but that was a bit noisy on the GH5 and on the GH6 with DR boost it's much cleaner.
Ha ha! Here are some more negatives though:
- The build quality doesn't feel as good as the GH5.
- Some YouTuber was complaining about the silly mechanism on the memory card door and I agree with him. There was nothing wrong with the door on the GH5, but the GH6 is now finicky to open.
- The stupid light streaking thing which I have seen, when I deliberately tried to recreate it.
- The whole DR boost thing is voodoo. I've got noisy results in daylight using it, which worries me. I need more tests to suss this one out.
And finally, here are some mildly shocking things I've learned when comparing to the GH5:
- GH6 is slightly wider angle of view
- GH6 gives slightly darker image
- There is quite probably an overall colour cast imbalance. Almost certainly when using the same WB preset or when dialling in degrees Kelvin, and possibly also even when doing a custom WB on the same target. Need to test this more. It might just be the difference between my two units.
Honestly, if you have a GH5 there is no huge reason to upgrade unless you definitely need the higher resolution, codec or frame rate specs. The output is going to look pretty much the same. It's not like the jump from the GH4 to the GH5, which added 10 bit and made V-Log usable. More like the GH5 to the GH5 II - a better camera to use but your client/audience won't see anything diferent.

A good shot with the XF 605...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sm22jlRD60g
 
 
 

Filmed with one hand on right handgrip and second hand on top handle. I've not use Power IS, just Dynamic etc...

What settings, Codecs etc ...
Filmed by hand ? With what stabilization setting ..?
Thank You 

First test under very bright sun, and little promo for an organic farm. Shooting animals that moves very quickly has forced me to make a lot of panning, but it was the first time with the camera to shoot outdoors, so please sorry the sense of seasickness with panning shots. Enjoy! 🙂
 

I actually enjoyed this "review" as the shots in it are lovely.
I might give this filter a go as it seems to be quite good according to Amateur Photographer who I suppose are probably a bit more reliable than the average YouTuber.
The filter is Nisi True Colour. Note, that it's a 1 to 5 stop, not the 1.5 to 5 stop which they also sell. A poster on our friend @FoxAdriano's thread on a different forum had this interesting tidbit:
I guess the True Colour and similar filters that have a low base density use the weaker polarisers, which is probably better to reduce colour cast, degree of polarisation and x pattern. I'm very much leaning towards a 5 stop fixed ND plus light vari ND for DR Boost on GH6 outdoors.