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TurboRat

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Posts posted by TurboRat

  1. 2 years ago or so, I was still using a 2012 Mac Mini with 16gb ram, editing in FCP and programming iOS apps. It was quick for its size. I used to put it in my backpack and just hook it up to a monitor at home or at work. Until the new OS rolled in (I think it was Sierra) and after the last update it suddenly slowed down significantly. If the new mac minis are upgradeable like the 2012 was, I think it can be used as a workstation. Unless you want to stay with a Mac,  a Hackintosh or Windows in a mini ITX is a better choice.

  2. 6 hours ago, thebrothersthre3 said:

    Thought I'd share my experience using the XT3 to film a wedding this past weekend.

    Lots of continuous shooting, though the camera did get warm, there was no overheating. I experienced no lock ups or errors of that nature.

    An issue I ran into was low light auto focus. There wasn't a ton of light at the reception venue. The room was mainly lit by small lights on the walls, and some overhead chandeliers. Neither light fixtures were very bright and the chandeliers were dimmed once the dancing started. Before the lights were dimmed the camera struggled to maintain focus at F4 without hunting quite frequently. At f2 it was fine which indicates it simply reached its limit as far as needed a certain amount of exposure. Once the lights were dimmed even at f2 it was hunting sometimes. I didn't crank the ISO beyond 6400. Maybe 12,800 would have been enough to get better exposure for auto focus.

    Basically this auto focus system isn't magic. It still enables me in decent lighting to get in focus shots of moving objects that I wouldn't be able to obtain by myself, especially not with longer lenses and a shallow DOF.

    I found the OIS on the 50-230mm lens to be great for non moving shots. I used it with a monopod(didn't get a stand for mine so its pretty unstable) and it worked great. I got to test tracking for people processing up the aisle and it was spot on.

    The 18-55 has great OIS as well. Easily can get handheld shots through all focal lengths that look great.


    My only wish for Fuji is that they'd give their primes OIS. Especially the 50mm f2.   If they just did a 50mm f2 with OIS I'd be a content man.

    Great! XT3 is indeed tempting! Been thinking between a Fuji and an A7III as a hybrid cam to pair with a GH5s. Really liking the colors and af from the Xt3 as far as the ones I see on reviews

  3. 3 hours ago, Jonesy Jones said:

    With the addition of USB C, does that mean we can finally connect to a camera? There were at least two images during the presentation of the iPad Pro connected to a DSLR. 

    The P4K has USB-C. Can they talk to each other? Even if the Pro can't be a live monitor, it'd be awesome to be able to view .braw file dailies from the P4K on an iPad in the field, especially if you are somewhat remote. 

    Thoughts?

    If P4K will allow output via USB-C then it's possible.

  4. 9 hours ago, padam said:

    The A7III is fairly cheap for what it is. But the cost of the lenses have to be factored in, in most cases you don't want to use adapters with AF-C.

    Yeah it's the cost of going to a whole system with a new camera + full frame lenses.

  5. Need some advice guys. Thinking of selling my Sony a6500 and a6300 gear since I only have the kit lens and Sigma 18-35+ Sigma MC-11 left for them. Went with GH5 and GH5s for video and now focused more on videography. Only have the Sonys because I have buddies who only use Sony and they give me gigs as a creative shooter / 2nd shooter just because we can easily match shots when grading. Now there are some photography and sports video gigs that I refuse because 1) I'm not confident with using the GH5 as a photography camera  2) Not confident with the focus with my Sony and 18-35 with the mc-11. I've been eyeing the A7III for some time now but not really sure about the cost vs business. What do you guys suggest? Sell my current Sony a6xx or stick with it and wait for the prices to go down? (Maybe when the A7Siii comes out ?)

  6. 10 minutes ago, Sage said:

    Likewise - and when it comes time to shoot, it'll be the GH5 (and P4K @Téodor Spencer) for me. Your feature will be amazing, I have no doubt.

    Ah, I can't wait to see it! Yea Linear adds that bit of flexibility, which I think was a needed option.

    I'll be shooting trees in the sun today, just for fun lol (first chance to breathe)

    Indeed, that is that the higher ceiling really 'clicks' with film, I think due to the nature of the color sci, and the halation. Whereas the Sicario ceiling plays to the GH5's strengths, so to speak (btw, try linear ;) )

    What are you referring to about keeping under 75 and about the Sicario ceiling?

    But I agree with the better contrast in the V3 lut looks much better :). I always add contrast when I use the previous version of the GHa lut. Glad to see it's already added :)

  7. 26 minutes ago, MattH said:

    Just a note that the 'soft edges' discussion on BMC user has moved forward significantly.  Kin869 has uploaded loads more examples.  The upshot is that (unless his camera is an exception) if you are using a non telecentric wide angle lens (native or speed boosted) and you shoot a wide shot you will probably see an edge softness issue at any aperture wider than f5.6.

    I hope Blackmagic addresses this via firmware update and not just one of the 'quirks' to be ignored like hardcore P4K posters want to happen. I also want to purchase a P4K in the future but so far some issues that are cropping up are:

    • Soft edges in wide angle lenses
    • Red light clipping
    • Battery getting stuck
    • Battery doors suddenly opening
    • SSD like T3 not immediately recognized

    I'm not really sure about 'image quality is above everything' agenda but I'm hoping these things that are fixable

  8. 19 minutes ago, Hans Punk said:

    I’ve had 3 copies of the iscomorphot 8/1.5x over the years, two with optics in fair to heavily used condition that I took apart to re-grease the helicoids...one lens that I owned was totally pristine. All lenses were soft unless taking lens is fairly heavily closed down with better performance on smaller sensors.

    I found that the characteristic ‘bloom’ softness that the lens has is a limitation of the front focusing optic. It is of not of a sufficient design that was intended to resolve sharpness at wide apertures on sensors with an equivalent gate size that is larger than for 8mm film, and the relatively thin edged optic can easily create a bloom on highlights that infect the whole image...as well as some CA on high contrast edges.

    On used copies of the lens, it is common for the edge blackening of that front optic to loose its black and accumulate micro scratches...resulting in even more contrast drop and apparent softening of the image. Overall, I really don’t think the lens is worthy of the ‘Baby Iscorama’ name...IMHO the smallest lens that exhibits the most comparible optic quality to an Iscorama (pre-36) - is the iscomorphot s8/2x (fixed focus). Same golden coating, zero CA and lovely balance of sharpness and defocus render. The iscomorphot (and it’s bigger non-MC brother 16/2x) are of course 2x, but they have enough of a complimentary look to the Iscorama 36/42/54 family, footage can be easily intercut when mixing lenses. The ‘baby Iscorama’ 8/1.5x however would stick out like a sore thumb in a lot of scenarios if wanting to match the look of the Iscorama clan...the sharpness and edge performance is just is not there, unless using a small aperture on the taking lens.

    I guess the baby iscorama has that vintage character that is only useful in certain situations. Thanks for also telling me more about the iscoramas :)

  9. 1 hour ago, noone said:

    From all the hype lately I was expecting all the newcomers to shit all over the Sony but it seems to me to still be the winner though the Fuji is very close and I can see why some would call it the winner.

    There are some very big surprises there (and disappointments).

     

    Very interesting test.

    Yeah also saw this on Max's comment asking where the GH5 will stand - 

    "Don't currently own one(GH5), but based on my previous tests against the A7iii and X-T2 in 4K The GH5 would be worst than A7III and X-T3 but better than Pocket 4K, Z7, and EOS R (in that order). In 1080P 24 It would be similar to X-T3, better than black magic, a7iii, and others. For 120FPS it would be X-T3. A7iii second, GH5 third, Blackmagic 4th, Z7, and last EOS R." 

    So his opinion based on his tests, A7iii & X-T3 wins. Was really hoping P4K will be a bit higher

  10. 1 hour ago, Snuff said:

     

    "Don't currently own one(GH5), but based on my previous tests against the A7iii and X-T2 in 4K The GH5 would be worst than A7III and X-T3 but better than Pocket 4K, Z7, and EOS R (in that order). In 1080P 24 It would be similar to X-T3, better than black magic, a7iii, and others. For 120FPS it would be X-T3. A7iii second, GH5 third, Blackmagic 4th, Z7, and last EOS R." - Max Yuryev

    So his opinion based on his tests, A7iii & X-T3 wins which would make sense based on reviews. Kinda surprised about P4K

  11. Why are the footages I see with the Baby Iscorama gives a soft footage compared to the Iscoramas? Is it because of the taking lens used?(mostly Helios 44). Any thoughts on this? Currently looking for a nice projection lens to pair with Helios44 or Super Takumar 50mm..  

  12. I currently own a GH5s and love it for its reliability and low light capabilities. Plus pairing it with an Atomos Inferno means you can shoot 10bit 4k 60fps. But the A7III is a better hybrid camera so if you're also going to take pictures, that's the one to choose. Right now I would also like to own an A7III but with the P4K around, I think a GH5 / GH5s + P4k is a good set to have. 

  13. 22 minutes ago, Matthew Campbell said:

    I've got some weird JITTER in my video. I shot this on Sunday, using the Rokinon Cine DS with Viltrox .71x Speedbooster on a Glidecam HD.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltwGuwZGWJw

    I'm going to assume this is because I don't have a Speedbooster support yet, and there's a tiny bit of rotation on the lens mount for it because it's not screwed in to a supprt. The lenses are also a fair amount of weight and I think it might also just be a bit of flex on the camera+mount. 

    Has anyone seen this before? I'm going to assume it's a common problem when you don't have your speedbooster/lens supported and screwed in? Or is it potentially something else?

    I'm going to try it with the 25mm Panasonic lens (super light) I have and see if there's a similar situation, but thought I'd check in here as well.

    Thanks in advance! You are a fantastic community and I'm glad to be here!

    That's weird.. Maybe with the Glidecam?

  14. On 10/23/2018 at 11:46 AM, Sage said:

    Emotive Color Version 3

    Core LogC Details

    - Rewrote engine to work at 65x65x65, main files are now at eight times resolution (supporting files processed at that resolution)
    - Fine tuned multi-pass/smoothing technique, to achieve absolute smoothness of final files
    - Introduced Averaging (averaging two separate measurements/conversions of a light source)
    - Corrected LogC rolloff artifact introduced with Verde
    - Corrected far magenta-red artifact

    Emotive Color Component Details

    - Remade EC component to incorporate new Arri primaries  that were quietly revised this summer for Alexa LF release
          (much deeper, more accurate red placement in relation to blue/green, and subtle hue shifts throughout)
    - Incorporated 'Sat Lock-Out", like hue lock out, that is fully accurate to saturation distribution between relative hues of Arri RGB primaries
          (corrects excessive saturation of orange/yellow/green in highlights, and under-saturation of blue in shadows)
    - Significantly refined saturation model
    - Unified EC for both WBs (taking a que from Arri's single R709) [Tungsten has significantly more contrast, higher ideal exposure]
    - Smoother rolloff placement in EC component
    - Replaced Pop with Linear (no highlight shoulder, better alternative to Arri R709)

     

    - Remade all PREs with latest process (at 65, provided at 33) - much more accurate and smooth
    - Entirely new PDF (and supplemental waveforms)
    - Added Daylight Skintone SBS
    - Updated 'Always Already' with V3 (Download 'Original File' - *Avoid watching in Firefox)

    625533369_AlwaysAlready.thumb.png.fce8c03bff5214491b6c05b1651f9beb.png

    Hi @Sage where can we get this V3 update? Is there an email? Coz I can't remember registering for one. I remember paying with Paypal then downloading the 2 folders (Daylight & Tungsten).

  15. 1 hour ago, Alex Uzan said:

    Yes the 12-35 seem the lens to have.
    I really enjoyed it on my GH5.

    I know the question is kinda multianswered?, but do you think a speedbooster is a must have for this pocket ?
    I read that's only interesting if you already have aps-c or ff lens.
    I don't. But would like obviously a shallow depth of field. 

    I use the SIgma 18-35 and yes, I think it's a must have even just to experience it with the P4K. I have used it on a GH5 / GH5s / a6500 and the dof and sharpness and contrast is superb compared to other lenses that I used (maybe except the Voigts). I think it's gonna give great images paired since it's contrasty out of the gate plus the dof and you can add a Promist filter if you feel like it's too sharp, and an ND filter for daytime. You can always sell it if it doesnt suit you but you gotta experience it. I was also skeptical since I've used the 12-35, 35-100, 12-40, 12-60 mft zooms and images and video is just better with the Sigma 18-35 before grading and post. Of course you can get the same contrast and sharpness with other mft zooms by adding sharpening and grading in Resolve.

  16. 1 hour ago, Alex Uzan said:

    Since I'm sending back the X-T3, I'm planning to buy one and try it in my work.
    I know there is no adapter to mount my Sony lens on it, so any recommandations about which lenses I should get to start ?

    Maybe the 12-35mm f2.8 zoom and test if OIS will work. But if you want to get something cheaper - 12-60mm f3.5 zoom and the 25mm f1.7 prime

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