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Yes, this is a good middle ground for shooting outdoors, especially when it's sunny. If you can see the LCD properly (and if not you can use the EVF) you can decide to raise or lower the temperature depending on the colour of the light and/or aesthetic preference.
That's because the stills use the full height of the sensor in 4:3 aspect ratio. The video clips are a 16:9 crop and so the vignetting is cropped out of the frame.
It's such a small amount of vignetting that it would be easy to manually crop in post for stills. However, if you turn IBIS off for stills it might disappear altogether.

I'm guessing that you originated the C settings whilst in one of the PASM modes then?
When you do this, then upon recall of the C setting you are locked into the exposure mode with which it was originated, hence why the option is greyed out.
It is only when you originate the C setting whilst in Movie Mode, that you are then free to change the exposure mode after you recall the C setting.
 

Mine is 1TB and way too small.
My problem is I didn’t really factor in that I have a couple of trips that take in 3-5 jobs without returning to the office and each one takes up approx 500GB.
Oops.
I have done the first (3 jobs working away) and downloading to the 2TB Sandisk SSD was painful.
Like 6-8 hours painful and when you finish late and start again mid morning…
Now I can download an entire job; 5 cards and up to 5 audio devices in about 1 hour…and then overnight, can just copy the lot to the ‘old’ USB Sandisk SSD as a backup with a single click. And than might take 4+ hours but I won’t care as I will be asleep.

Yeah, but it pays to be first to commercialise it widely.  Just wait for the TikTok advertising folks and music video folks to get a hold of it - someone can potentially make a bag of cash and a career for themselves if a big name music act sees you doing this sort of thing and wants you to do their next video.
I'll rename him from "I compare smartphones to my original Alexa" Jet.

Yeah, but it pays to be first to commercialise it widely.  Just wait for the TikTok advertising folks and music video folks to get a hold of it - someone can potentially make a bag of cash and a career for themselves if a big name music act sees you doing this sort of thing and wants you to do their next video.
I'll rename him from "I compare smartphones to my original Alexa" Jet.

Well, I have to eat my hat 😳 😂
I did another test and ran each camera on standby using previous settings. GH5 lasted around 1h 50m and GH6 lasted 2h 17m.
Now, the GH5 battery is older and has been through quite a few cycles, whereas GH6 battery is brand new.
So why is everyone saying GH6 battery life is way worse? Aside from the fact that when recording it does eat battery a little bit faster, maybe it's because the GH6 battery is not fully charged until all the lights on the charger go out, and people don't realise that?
BTW, in standby mode GH5 died around 5 minutes after the red flashing indicator, and GH6 was more like 10 minutes.

Why are people moaning about battery life?  I think a huge proportion of camera criticism is emotional, not rational.  Take the GH6 for example, people were comparing the battery life between GH5 and GH6 (perhaps without facts) and are critical of that, but then they compare the DR to something like the P6K and are critical again.  This thread is full of combinations like that. 
Instead, had they compared the DR between the GH5 and GH6 they'd be complimentary, and compared the battery life between GH6 and P6K they'd also be complimentary.
Realistically, you have to compare all aspects of one camera with all aspects of another.  Comparing the DR to camera X and battery life to camera Y implies that I can buy a camera with the DR of camera X and the DR of camera Y, which of course doesn't make any sense.
Anyway, I'm very curious to hear about how the battery life compares.
In terms of how to compare the GH5 vs GH6 battery life on standby, use the timelapse mode on your phone (and have it on charge) and put a clock in the shot.  You only need a rough comparison (if they're within a minute or two of each other then that's good enough) and there's no huge file-sizes to deal with, and no media management - just review it on the phone at the end to see the times they shut down and then delete the clip!

I have a pair of S1R's on me at all times shooting hybrid, ie, photo and video clips, anything from 10-15 hours and swap batteries late on when they show around 1/4 power. More 'precautionary' than anything so I don't get caught out at a critical moment. I have 4 other spare batteries so not even a concern.
I then have the S5 on a tripod with a cine lens. I only use it for ceremony and speeches and unless it's over an hour, just switch the battery the one time after ceremony and that's it.
The S1H moves between tripod (ceremony & speeches) to monopod rest of the day and might consume 2 batteries.
The ZV1 (backup C&S) is the only one I bother to use a power bank with these days as the battery life on that really is a bit trash! Just clamps to a tripod leg.
Drone came with 3 batteries and I never get through all 3 on a single day shoot.
I think if I had something like a Sigma FP, I would however go for either a mini clamped on power bank, or better still, a cable and belt loop battery (dummy internal) which would run the thing all day without issue.
I could do the same with any of the above as a 'poor man's version', ie, just stick the power bank in my back pocket but the reality is battery life is a near non-issue to me. Never has been.
Other than the ZV1, I have more than enough spare battery power for my needs and whether at home or away in my caravan/travel trailer, have a charging station set up where before bed, I just drop in all/most of my batteries and all my audio gear is internal USB.
Wake up in the morning, all recharged.
But this is just my use case.

Why are people moaning about battery life?  I think a huge proportion of camera criticism is emotional, not rational.  Take the GH6 for example, people were comparing the battery life between GH5 and GH6 (perhaps without facts) and are critical of that, but then they compare the DR to something like the P6K and are critical again.  This thread is full of combinations like that. 
Instead, had they compared the DR between the GH5 and GH6 they'd be complimentary, and compared the battery life between GH6 and P6K they'd also be complimentary.
Realistically, you have to compare all aspects of one camera with all aspects of another.  Comparing the DR to camera X and battery life to camera Y implies that I can buy a camera with the DR of camera X and the DR of camera Y, which of course doesn't make any sense.
Anyway, I'm very curious to hear about how the battery life compares.
In terms of how to compare the GH5 vs GH6 battery life on standby, use the timelapse mode on your phone (and have it on charge) and put a clock in the shot.  You only need a rough comparison (if they're within a minute or two of each other then that's good enough) and there's no huge file-sizes to deal with, and no media management - just review it on the phone at the end to see the times they shut down and then delete the clip!

I would add that from my experience of using a manual focus 58mm Rokkor 1.2 on a 5D3 for photography I found that if I used the optical viewfinder to judge focus, forget it, it was out of focus. I missed it nearly every time.
However, I got an almost 100% success rate by using an LCD viewfinder (remember those?). So you're magnifying the large, high resolution image on the rear LCD screen. It's actually possible to nail focus this way.
 

Snort 🙊

I really, really want a XC15 style camera with internal ND and a newer 1" sensor with 10-bit CLOG3. If they could improve the lens and make it a 24-240 f/2.8-4...I think it would be a killer little "bridge" cinema camera for pretty much anything.
I have a R5C and I have been enjoying the 3K s16 RAW mode on the RF 24-70 and especially on the RF 70-200. But honestly it renewed my crazy want for a new XC style camera even more.
Fuck it. I'm going to rent a XC10 next month and pretend its what I want 🙂

First picture taken with the 300mm. Exciting isn't it. That thing is about half a block away lol.

 

Well, here is a picture of the beast rig.
 

One day i will buy one of those gizmos i swear..  i'm just waiting for the Black Sabbeth, black friday sale. Actually i have a table saw to buy then maybe i can look at something a bit more relevant to the forum.   

Not quite the same, but rather than switch my recently acquired 14” M1 MacBook Pro for what I should have bought, the MacStudio (or whatever it is called), I have ordered the parts to build myself a super dooper fast external SSD which I can not only download to, but edit off.
I don’t really like messing with techy things and prefer plug n’ play but Mr Gordon Laing had a good video on the subject.
And has saved me 1000+ euros as a result.

Just so we're all on the page: I was testing battery life, not overheating. Of course, the figure doesn't mean anything until it's compared to something else. I'll try to run the same test on a GH5 to compare.
 
Not in Ireland lol! Hottest day of the year so far 😂
 

With the latest cameras being 10-bit with full log profiles, I think that's changing.  It used to be the case though.
That was my impression as well.

What was the ambient temp?

That is super clean video, the whites are white, the black print is black...eh well eh... 😵

Depends on the camera/cage and situation but for me personally it would impede the quick release plate that I would generally have on for monopod/tripod/gimbal mounting.
Will likely end up with flat or coiled but as either of those would need a few different ones being bought to test with (USB C cables that look pretty can often be flaky as I've found out to my cost) so I wouldn't rule out the existing cables with plastic cable ties looped through the cage holes !
 

Great stuff...
Mounting it on the bottom might be slightly more ergonomic and a bit more stealth perhaps?  And keen to see what you come up with for cleaner cable routing.  It seems that with my BMMCC it doesn't matter how snug you get the camera and screen, the cables still triple the size of the whole thing, giving it that "look at me!" vibe when shooting in public.

Great stuff...
Mounting it on the bottom might be slightly more ergonomic and a bit more stealth perhaps?  And keen to see what you come up with for cleaner cable routing.  It seems that with my BMMCC it doesn't matter how snug you get the camera and screen, the cables still triple the size of the whole thing, giving it that "look at me!" vibe when shooting in public.

10.5 stops isn't world-record territory, but there's a chance that the camera can encode the full DR of the sensor isn't there?  I thought that most cameras with log profiles would capture the whole DR, it was just in the picture profiles that they'd lose a stop or two.

I've got a bunch of Samsung T5/T7 drives for the Fp and Pocket cameras and, as small as they are, they are still a bit cumbersome and in the case of the T5s I've had a couple fail on me.
This is not exactly a unique or challenging DIY project to make my own alternative to the T5/T7s but thought it might be useful for anyone looking for something similar that is both faster and, for my purposes, a bit more ergonomic.
Enter the Sabrent NVMe enclosure and the WD SN770 NVMe drive.

The Sabrent takes both SATA and NVME in sizes 2242/2260/2280 and is tool-free so you just pop it open and then insert the drive.


Once you've done that, simply snap the case shut again and you have a ready to go drive which, for me at least, is a far better form factor than a T5/T7 for mounting on a camera and is easily swappable in the field for another NVMe if you run out of space.

To be able to mount it to a camera, I decided that the most appropriate and versatile route would be via a standard 1/4" 20 thread so I designed and resin printed an adapter that will take a screw and which is then bonded to the bottom of the drive case.

With that in place it can now be mounted to the camera cage horizontally or in the case of the Pocket cameras, directly into the thread on the top of the camera.


For my own use, I much prefer mounting it in this orientation but, of course, with it now having the 1/4" 20 mount it can be mounted anywhere.
In terms of price, the 1tb drive and the housing came to around €125 so it is certainly very competitively prices compared to the Samsungs.
Oh and there is the small matter of the quoted write speed being 5,150MB/s which makes it significantly faster than even the gen2 T7's speed of 1,000 MB/s.
In terms of actual real world performance, I shot all day with it on the P4K earlier in the week at 5:1 BRAW and it didn't miss a beat.
As I say, not unique, not challenging and not for everyone but it fills a need for me.
Some better cable/cable management required now though.