Anaconda_

It just needs a 'backup now' button to dump form the CFast to the SSD/HDD

So I just got some C.Fast 2.0 cards - I want to be able to record ProRes HQ, so even if Braw can go straight to SDs I needed these anyway... Anyway, a while ago I asked if C.Fast 2.0 cards can be read by C.fast 1.0 readers. It turns out they can! Because of this, I imagine then that C.Fast 1.0 cards can be used in this camera for lower bitrate recordings and possibly Braw too. So for those of you, like me, who have the Atomos Ninja Star, dig 'em out, stick the card in the P4K and forget about it, have it ready for emergencies! Also, for those wondering, here's a speedtest of the Integral Ultima proX2 CFast 2.0 card. On the sticker, it says 'up to 550mb/s read 540mb/s write' so either they've over estimated or my Atomos CFast reader is creating a bottleneck. It's a USB 3.0 reader. Either way though, I can still get those ProRes HQ recordings in 60fps, so I'm happy.

So nice you said it twice.

Does anyone know of a dtap cable that'll work with this camera? Or a cable to go from 7.2V/5.5mm Pole-tap DC output to the P4K?

If it's any help, I use the Sigma 18-35 with Viltrox on a Gx80. I'll happily do some tests for you, but not sure if the sensor etc. Is the same... Just let me know what you need.

Weirdly, I posted that from my phone and it looked and sounded trash. Now on a computer and it's how I remembered it haha. If singer-songwriter isn't your music though, I filmed this one on the weekend - same setup as before, but they wanted to use their own, very fancy looking mic haha. Thanks! It's mechanical, and quite a 'heavy' ring, kind of tough to turn, but it's definitely not going to slip with you wanting it to. Unfortunately, when you see the judders in some videos, that's me turning the tough focus ring, which also moves the Viltrox a bit, so the IBIS doesn't know what's going on. Bit of a shame, but I can live with it. I think it's just my lens, maybe another of the same model would be fine. I ETTR with BTM's hack then turn the LCD to B&W and put peaking on the most sensitive and roll, one take, mistakes and all. I don't mind it occasionally going out of focus with my movements, but I want to make sure I can snap it back easily when I need to.

Thanks man. I've been using it for over a year. Not wanting to derail the topic, but here's some recent shoots I've done. All with the Viltrox booster and the old Sigma 30mm 1.4 on a gx80. Unless mentioned otherwise in the description, the sound and image was a one man (me) job. All GX80 with the Viltrox booster and Sigma 30mm 1.4 EF mount. It's a brilliant little camera.

@mercer unless I'm reading that wrong, your whole post validates my statement you quoted and said isn't entirely true haha. I was saying the best tools May be technically better, but if they don't make you feel inspired, they won't help. I guess with technical stuff, like joinery, welding and that kind of thing it doesn't apply. But give an musician the best guitar ever, it doesn't mean they'll play like Clapton. I heard recently someone saying that just because cameras are cheaper, doesn't mean everyone can make a movie. People have had pen and paper for centuries, but not everyone's writing like Shakespeare. Inspiration is more important that tools. But certain tools can help you feel inspired. Edit: I also get pumped to use the gx80 with the hack and use it professionaly on the same shoots as that mic I mentioned.

I wonder if they'll add Braw to the Video Assist. It would open up the codec to every other camera BUT, maybe the codec depends too much on being programmed to the particular sensor and so can only work for in camera recording. The Video Assist already has SDI in, so I assume there's no hardware stopping it from recording raw in one way or another... that said, I've never seen a cDNG option on our one.

While I agree in many aspects, things like cameras with new abilities and higher numbers can get you excited and motivated to film more and create more. When I bought my last new camera all I could think about was how to film this and that, and how certain, very boring things like my drive to work, could look through that new camera. Similarly when I got a new microphone I was excited to use it and have since learned about the importance of mic placement, how to record various things and even how to mix and master music. Something I've never done before, but now do on a weekly basis. The saying "a workman is only as good as his tools" is kind of half way there. It's more about your inspiration than the tools, but if the tools give you inspiration then different, possibly even 'better' tools can certainly hold a workman back.

A UK store just told me that they're not expecting the camera until early October now - but may just be taking a cue from B&H ? They refused to be clear if that was for preorders or for new customers. A Dutch store still expect a shipment in September, but are unsure of a date, and how many they'll receive. Another Dutch store has closed their preorders.

Well, The F1 on B&H is 170 and the DR10L is 200, so like for like the F1 is also cheaper. No arguments here though - whatever fits your needs. I'd never seen the product before and was looking for exactly what the F1 offers about a year ago so was interested. Shame I've already filled my needs. (although what I bought is small XLR recorder with phantom power, something the Tascam and Zoom are missing) On a side note, @IronFilm what's your opinion on using either the F1 with the shotgun or Tascam DR10sg in place of the Rode VideoMic Pro? So using a jack to plug it into the camera. I was suddenly thinking, it could cut your kit down, as you could have it on the camera for run and gun stuff where you're filming lots of short clips that will take some time to sync, but then mount the mic on a boom for interviews, syncing it later. Or would the line out not provide adequate quality to bother with recording straight into the video?

It's much more flexible, you don't need 1 device for lav mic, 1 for shotgun and 1 for XLR. In fact, Zoom's XLR module gives you 2 inputs instead of 1 AND you can use 1/4 jack as well. You buy one recorder and then whatever mic you put on it. If you were to utilise all three variations, the F1 is MUCH cheaper than buying the 3 Tascams. You'll also have all your recordings on 1 card at the end of the day, which will be helpful What do you think about the preamps etc. though? I was under the impression that the Zoom would sound cleaner, but may be wrong.

Wow that seems way better, and more versatile than those Tascam recorders, and for more or less the same price too! If only the XLR addition had phantom power ?

That's a fair point haha.

If you already shoot with that setup, why not do your own tests?

First Bluetooth app for iPhone. BMD have an official app for iPad, but this is the first I could find for phones. https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/bluetooth-for-blackmagic/id1376947780?mt=8 Also, here's some actual real world night footage. Ungraded and it looks pretty amazing to me. Lots you could do with it.

Fixed that for ya

Shipping to customers over the next few weeks. Still so vague haha!

I just got an email from the camera store saying 'Your order is on the way'! Needless to say, i was quite excited, and then I remembered I ordered something else from them yesterday (Sunday) so it's not the camera that's coming. ?

Including a lens, recording media, top handle and a few other accessories too, no doubt. Definitely a deal, but I wonder if the Braw will push the market prices up.

you could also just film 1080 in camera with no crop. It only crops the sensor at 120p. Up to 60p it will be the whole sensor.

But will be much more processor intensive during editing. ProRes plays back crazy smooth very easily, but 10 bit h.265 at these datarates will require a more powerful system. And then ask yourself if those are things you need ? EDIT: ^^ and it seems like you'll be rigging the Fuji anyway haha!

That's surprisingly low, if you consider how many people use Adobe products.