Alpicat

@Matt Kieley thanks for posting your videos and the three others above, all really good. I never realised video on the EOS M could look this great without using crop mode, shows how useful the h264 bitrate hack is! When shooting raw without crop the amount of moire is extremely bad, and I'd assumed it was exactly the same with h264 video but that's definitely not the case, it's much more usable. 
I like this one from Ryan Moorman with the 4:3 aspect ratio:
 

Here's some more footage shooting 2.5k raw video:
 

Here's a very quick test I shot with a Schneider / Beaulieu Optivaron 6-66mm f1.8 super 8 lens. 12-bit lossless, continuous shooting at 1392x1028 resolution. You can't really go higher than this resolution without getting excessive vignetting, and 4:3 aspect ratio is definitely the way to go with this lens. 
 
Also here's a test with an EF-M 15-45mm stock lens, this time at 1792x1030 resolution. I wrote the music on ableton live for both these videos.  
 

Excellent Video David
 
Btw Viltrox will release their EF-EFM speedbooster in a month or two, and price will be similar to their current M2 adapter... so if you want to sell yours for min loss it is the chance
 
from their fb page
 
 

@tupp thanks for posting that video - All-I frames video looks like a great option when recording with the full sensor!
As for 1800x1030 resolution (without the sd card hack), with 12 bit lossless you can record for a long time if there's not too much contrast or highlights in a frame. 10 bit lossless is continuous
There's some slow progress being made with the sd card hack, it's now possible to use it without having to run tests (which took around 3 minutes every time the camera was turned on), so it's quick to start up now. However that build only works with certain fast cards, and it's still not safe to use. If you try that build with an unsupported card, I don't know what would happen to it.
Below is my latest test, this time with people! I'm using a Sandisk extreme pro 95mb/s 64gb card I'm still getting a max of 55mb/s write speed. At 2520x1080 resolution in 12 bit lossless, recording runs for quite a while unless there's a lot of highlights and contrast in a frame. 10 bit lossless is usually completely continuous. I shot this when it was 26 degrees celcius outside, but the camera worked - it didn't go above 42 degrees C.
Also I've now bought a Canon efs 10-18mm lens. Waiting to get a viltrox 0.71x speedbooster when it's released. That speedbooster combined with this lens at 2.5k resolution in crop mode will result in a field of view of 24mm (35mm full frame equivalent). That's wide enough for me and will make crop mode totally usable.... and that lens has IS which works nicely.
 
 

Looking back I owe everyone a big thank-you for using the forum and taking an interest in the blog, it is amazing what it has turned into with so little effort on my part  I think this place must be the only website on the entire internet without adverts. Long may it continue like that.
Got a GX9 arriving tomorrow... about time I did a review of something cheap with the big shift to high-end stuff. Let me know what you'd like to see in the review of it.

Great footage (and music)!  Thanks!  
 
Interesting.  The tests are required every time one starts the camera?
 
1800x1030 works for me.  What's the longest run time you've achieved with that mode?
 
I've heard some good things about the Viltrox focal reducers.  I have the RJ focal reducer for the EOSM with a Nikkor mount, and it was used in a couple of the shots in this test (along with the 18mm-55mm kit lens):
            All of this footage employs the All-I frames video hack in a Magic Lantern build from 2015.  Frame rates were 23.98 fps and 59.94fps (yielding 1280x720 which was scaled up to 1920x1080).  The Flaat 10 picture style was used in all shots with the first shot ungraded, but I gave a touch more snap to the contrast of the rest of the clips.
 
The ISO was set to 800, but noise was prominent in some footage.  So, I'll probably dial the ISO back down to 100 or 200 when possible.
 
The bit rate was boosted to 1.5x, but I got a hiccup (dropped frame or doubled frames) four seconds into one of the shots.  So, regardless of the cause, I will probably back off of that setting and bring the bit rate down to 1.3x in subsequent shoots.
 
A screw-in ND and a polarizer were stacked, so. occasionally, there was slight vignetting.  However, there was some weirdness with the vignetting moving/changing in the middle of shots, which could be attributed to OIS, except that same behavior seemed to appear in the shots with the manual Nikkor 20mm with the RJ focal reducer.   Have to take a closer look at this apparent phenomenon.  Anyone have ideas on the cause?
 
This test was rushed, and I forgot to change the shutter speed from 1/60th to 1/120th in the first 60fps (slo-mo) shot, so that clip looks slightly smeary.
 
I see a little moire/aliasing and a moment of banding, but I think that this imaging quality could work for a lot of situations.

Make it 40... to me this camera doesn’t even exist. 
Eventually we’ll have footage from John Brawley or Frank Glencairn or Noam Kroll and the footage will look amazing. More people will love it but a few will find something wrong with it...
Eventually card info will be released, and more people will complain.
Eventually AF tests will show up comparing this camera to the PDAF of the a6500 and more people will complain.
Eventually low light tests will show up comparing this camera with the GH5s or the a7sii and more people will complain.
At the end, when it’s released, a bunch of people will complain because they hate that they have to use an IR Cut filter and they will complain that they only get 45-60 minutes of battery life and that they wish it had IBIS...
And eventually the usual suspects will be the only people that have the camera and the footage will be absolutely gorgeous.
The End.

I've uploaded another video with the SD card hack:
 
@tupp It takes about 3 or 4 minutes to do the two tests before the sd overclock is ready to use, and then the camera runs as normal. You should be able to shoot 1920x1080 in 5x zoom mode without overclocking in 10 bit lossless - you won't get much record time but it's feasible. I can already get nearly continuous shooting in 1800x1030 12 bit lossless movie crop mode.
I did notice it isn't possible to shoot video without the "release shutter without lens" enabled, don't know if it would be possible to get around that with Magic Lantern.
Also, unsure if I mentioned that Viltrox are planning to do a 0.71x focal reducer for EF-M mount - they told me it should be out in the summer. I don't have a bmpcc speedbooster any longer so this should be a cheaper alternative, with the advantage of electronic contacts for EF lenses.

@TwoScoops That's the write speed and resolution the 5D4 could achieve if it had magic lantern enabled, but it doesn't yet. Could be years before we see magic lantern on that camera.

The hack doesn't change the usability of the camera - you can use it the same way as without the hack. You can shoot without crop mode with the hack enabled, although it's probably not worth it?
You can shoot all bitrates in raw with sound, but not with lossless raw since that uses the mlv_lite module. However I think someone managed to enable sound recording with the mlv_lite module - worth checking on the magic lantern forum.
In non crop mode the EOS M can only record up to 720p raw (with a lot of aliasing and moire). Using 3x3 pixel binning mode (also non crop) it's still 720p max but at least there's slightly less moire. Regular h.264 is 1080p in non crop mode (with or without the bitrate hack). There's a discussion about that camera here: https://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/26577-is-the-eos-m-the-digital-super-8-camera/
I posted a video I've done with the EOS M + SD card overclocking on that thread, but reposting it here since that hack is relevant to a number of other Canon DSLRs. Works the same way on the 100D, 700D, 650D and others:
 
 

Agreed, the 3x crop mode is still very unique advantage - especially for macro video. The ability to also shoot higher resolution (even at reduced frame rate) in raw is quite amazing.
 

The hack doesn't change the usability of the camera - you can use it the same way as without the hack. You can shoot without crop mode with the hack enabled, although it's probably not worth it?
You can shoot all bitrates in raw with sound, but not with lossless raw since that uses the mlv_lite module. However I think someone managed to enable sound recording with the mlv_lite module - worth checking on the magic lantern forum.
In non crop mode the EOS M can only record up to 720p raw (with a lot of aliasing and moire). Using 3x3 pixel binning mode (also non crop) it's still 720p max but at least there's slightly less moire. Regular h.264 is 1080p in non crop mode (with or without the bitrate hack). There's a discussion about that camera here: https://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/26577-is-the-eos-m-the-digital-super-8-camera/
I posted a video I've done with the EOS M + SD card overclocking on that thread, but reposting it here since that hack is relevant to a number of other Canon DSLRs. Works the same way on the 100D, 700D, 650D and others:
 
 

Guys i have a question.
with the new uhs-i hack, you can record with 14-12-10bit in with sound and without crop mode?
get an eos m1 plus a focal reducer would be a cheapest fullframe killer solution!

It was full HD.  I think that the sharpness of the lens, combined with the subject distance and the fineness of the wood texture made for a "perfect storm."  However, I have made some more tests, which I will try to post soon, and there was also moire problems with some coarse fabric.
 
 
This is an amazing capability for such an inexpensive camera!  Thanks for sharing!
 
I've got to get some S16 lenses, or try the BMPCC speed booster (if/when the Photodiox M4/3 to EF-M adapter appears).
 
By the way, I tested it, and one can't shoot video with a manual lens while the "Release shutter without lens" is disabled -- so one might have to be careful not to press the shutter button when using the BMPCC speed booster on the EOSM.
 
 
Oh, that's a bummer.  Hope someone finds a way around that.
 
The thing is, I would be happy with just 1920x1080 and less overclocking.

The EOS M doesn't handle blown highlights very well in raw and you do sometimes get a flat pink (or pure white) colour in the blown out areas, and it's easy to get with harsh clipping sometimes with colourful moire appearing at the edges of the blown out areas. MlRAWviewer might make the problem worse - worth trying another program like MLV App to see if its still an issue? The way to get rid of the pink and hopefully bring back some information is clicking 'highlight recovery' in Resolve, but I'm not sure this necessarily works in every single case. If you want to go slightly further with highlight recovery, look at Juan Melara's tutorial on grading cdngs (for Blackmagic cameras but works for magic lantern raw):
 
Great work though it's a shame about the moire. I guess this must be 720p mode because when shooting 1080p mp4's (with or without bitrate hack) I'm pretty certain you wouldn't get so much moire?
Today I've tried the SD card overclock hack. It works and will post footage here soon.

Here is my first test filming 2520x1080, 12 bit lossless on the EOS M with the sd card hack, this shot is 2 minutes long using the stock zoom lens and a sandisk extreme pro card. Processed via MLV App and Resolve:
Currently you need to perform an overclocking test and then a benchmark test for your SD card after each time the camera is turned off, so it's a bit cumbersome.
Here's a still - a cdng processed through photoshop, different colour temperature than in the video:

The EOS M doesn't handle blown highlights very well in raw and you do sometimes get a flat pink (or pure white) colour in the blown out areas, and it's easy to get with harsh clipping sometimes with colourful moire appearing at the edges of the blown out areas. MlRAWviewer might make the problem worse - worth trying another program like MLV App to see if its still an issue? The way to get rid of the pink and hopefully bring back some information is clicking 'highlight recovery' in Resolve, but I'm not sure this necessarily works in every single case. If you want to go slightly further with highlight recovery, look at Juan Melara's tutorial on grading cdngs (for Blackmagic cameras but works for magic lantern raw):
 
Great work though it's a shame about the moire. I guess this must be 720p mode because when shooting 1080p mp4's (with or without bitrate hack) I'm pretty certain you wouldn't get so much moire?
Today I've tried the SD card overclock hack. It works and will post footage here soon.

Here is my first test filming 2520x1080, 12 bit lossless on the EOS M with the sd card hack, this shot is 2 minutes long using the stock zoom lens and a sandisk extreme pro card. Processed via MLV App and Resolve:
Currently you need to perform an overclocking test and then a benchmark test for your SD card after each time the camera is turned off, so it's a bit cumbersome.
Here's a still - a cdng processed through photoshop, different colour temperature than in the video:

Hey all,
I've just finished up a new grading tutorial especially for any of you shooting CinemaDNGs. It actually works with any CinemaDNG, not just limited to Blackmagic cameras.
In the tutorial I show you how get access to the full dynamic range, richer colours throughout the full range, and all in a curve thats a lot nicer to grade than BMD Film.

Feel free to leave any feedback or questions and I'll do my best to help you out!
 

Well there is no doubt it is pretty awesome for what little money you have to spend to get into the system. And I am sure X amount of people on here has had a body laying around for years.
Plus a cheap way to be able to get into ML Raw and learn how to use and edit it. Sounds like a Win, Win to me. Cheap thrills.

Here are a few seconds (30MB MOV file) shot on the EOSM with the more recent ALL-I hack enabled and with bitrate boosted 1.5x:
MVI_5681-short.mov
 
The frames are definitely all I-frames.  However, as you can see, moire was problematic with the back wall and with the lens that I was using -- the Pixco Mini 25mm F1.8 APS-C lens ($25 when I bought it last year).  Sorry for the shaking, but the Pixco has no stabilization.
 
I am going to start trying to boost the bitrate, but I also want to try recent, stock ML builds and just boosting bitrate to 2.5 to see if that makes any difference.  I especially want to try 60 fps.

Got the speedbooster for my M50, now I can have FF look in a compact setup and Canon colour, and 4K is now super 35mm instead of super 16mm look.
 

That's true  - particularly in the examples above where grain has been added in post, but sometimes that look can be nice! If you want a modern and sharp but still pleasant looking image - with the new SD card overclock module the EOS M can record 2520x1072 raw continuously (using a 3.33x crop from 35mm full frame / approx 16mm size). The module is still very experimental so just waiting a bit longer until hopefully it will be easier to use!
That's incredible, thanks so much for doing this and look forward to hearing more about your results! 
@Nikkor  There are no pink dots when recording in lossless 10 or 12 bit raw, but they do still appear in all the other raw formats. In any case this isn't an issue any longer as modern mlv transcoding programs such as MLV App use a focus pixel map to automatically get rid of all the dots (without requiring chroma smoothing), so you won't even know they were ever there.
However, the EOS M still can't do 1080p when shooting full sensor raw, it stays at 720p and therefore there's a huge amount of moire. They were looking to find a way around that issue but that didn't seem to go anywhere. Here's the thread about that: https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=16608.0   If you're recording full sensor, it's best to shoot regular h264 with the bitrate hack which is 1080p. The moire is still there but it's a bit more controllable. I'm able to set the h264 bitrate at 3x and with a Sandisk 95mb/s it seems stable.
 
 

More stills from the same short that I posted about earlier. EVA1. Kowa BH 2x anamorphic, Voigtlander 40mm f2 EF mount taking lens. This grade is a first pass I did for the HD proxies my wife will use to cut the film.