BTM_Pix

If I was Blackmagic, I’d skip the L mount and be beating a path to Nikon’s door to use the Z mount.
Natively, you can get fast Z primes up to 800mm so there is a much broader range there whereas L mount tops out at 135mm but it’s the adaptability where it scores.
Adapters for EF with autofocus, E mount with autofocus, even any manual focus lens with M mount and deeper mount can have autofocus too and even PL mount with integral variable ND filter.
Last but by no means least F mount with full autofocus, something which no other mount can offer.
Between these adapters a customer for this speculated BM camera could use pretty much any lens they’ve acquired over the years with full autofocus. Minus X mount and of course L mount itself but weirdly with the MFT to E mount you can even use those lenses too.
Z mount is hands down the most versatile mount around* with the added bonus of BM not having to deal with Leica who, let’s not forget, wouldn’t do firmware to make their cameras compatible with an adapter from one of the actual members of the alliance. My MC-21 still isn’t and won’t ever be compatible with my Leica T or SL.
Nikon are unlikely to get into the true cinema camera market so there is less perceived challenge versus Panasonic who are very likely to want to do so with an L mount cinema offering in the near future.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
*This amazing and comprehensive compatibility didn’t of course stop me somewhat hypocritically not buying into Z mount and spending all my money that I’d intended to use on increasing my L mount collection of lenses instead 🙂

Yeah, adding an UltraSync Blue will resolve my woes if Zoom don't update their firmware but I wouldn't rule out Atomos breaking compatibility with that either.
Curious how it works with the Tascam X6/X8 though as I'd put good money on their overpriced BT adapter being one and the same product as Zoom's overpriced BT adapter.
Anyhow, I'm off to test what else doesn't work on the Connect now 🙂 

One thing that might tip me into buying a used Z9 (aside from Z8 possibly not being available from stock when I go on my trip) is whether they have cut BLE timecode from the Z8 as I have a bit of commitment to that through Zoom audio recorders and now the Atomos Connect add on for the Ninja V.
Hopefully it will also support the remote grip as well

Fuck it, I’m getting a used Z9 aren’t I?

One major thing that the LX10/15 has over the RX100 series is the f1.4 minimum aperture on the wide end.
The RX100 series have the sLog profiles but this is mitigated on the LX10/15 if you install my Cinelike D hack.
I actually prefer just having Cinelike D as its easier to deal with in a casual camera than sLog having to be exposed at ISO1600. 
You can add ND to both of course using stick on filter adapters but having to reduce from ISO100 instead of ISO1600 it a lot less problematic in terms of not getting X pattern artefacts etc.
Everyone should just get an FZ2000/2500 though as it really is a powerhouse and, if we were brutally honest with ourselves, probably as much of a camera as many of us actually need 😉 
Its a bit chunky though so a combination of that and the LX10/15 would be great for travel where the LX could be used where discretion is required but at minimal additional weight with the bonus of the flexibility of two matched cameras (using Cinelike D) instead of one.

One major thing that the LX10/15 has over the RX100 series is the f1.4 minimum aperture on the wide end.
The RX100 series have the sLog profiles but this is mitigated on the LX10/15 if you install my Cinelike D hack.
I actually prefer just having Cinelike D as its easier to deal with in a casual camera than sLog having to be exposed at ISO1600. 
You can add ND to both of course using stick on filter adapters but having to reduce from ISO100 instead of ISO1600 it a lot less problematic in terms of not getting X pattern artefacts etc.
Everyone should just get an FZ2000/2500 though as it really is a powerhouse and, if we were brutally honest with ourselves, probably as much of a camera as many of us actually need 😉 
Its a bit chunky though so a combination of that and the LX10/15 would be great for travel where the LX could be used where discretion is required but at minimal additional weight with the bonus of the flexibility of two matched cameras (using Cinelike D) instead of one.

One major thing that the LX10/15 has over the RX100 series is the f1.4 minimum aperture on the wide end.
The RX100 series have the sLog profiles but this is mitigated on the LX10/15 if you install my Cinelike D hack.
I actually prefer just having Cinelike D as its easier to deal with in a casual camera than sLog having to be exposed at ISO1600. 
You can add ND to both of course using stick on filter adapters but having to reduce from ISO100 instead of ISO1600 it a lot less problematic in terms of not getting X pattern artefacts etc.
Everyone should just get an FZ2000/2500 though as it really is a powerhouse and, if we were brutally honest with ourselves, probably as much of a camera as many of us actually need 😉 
Its a bit chunky though so a combination of that and the LX10/15 would be great for travel where the LX could be used where discretion is required but at minimal additional weight with the bonus of the flexibility of two matched cameras (using Cinelike D) instead of one.

RED made a product for the EPIC called the Motion Mount which does ND and global shutter emulation.
@Andrew Reid has one and it is fantastic.

One major thing that the LX10/15 has over the RX100 series is the f1.4 minimum aperture on the wide end.
The RX100 series have the sLog profiles but this is mitigated on the LX10/15 if you install my Cinelike D hack.
I actually prefer just having Cinelike D as its easier to deal with in a casual camera than sLog having to be exposed at ISO1600. 
You can add ND to both of course using stick on filter adapters but having to reduce from ISO100 instead of ISO1600 it a lot less problematic in terms of not getting X pattern artefacts etc.
Everyone should just get an FZ2000/2500 though as it really is a powerhouse and, if we were brutally honest with ourselves, probably as much of a camera as many of us actually need 😉 
Its a bit chunky though so a combination of that and the LX10/15 would be great for travel where the LX could be used where discretion is required but at minimal additional weight with the bonus of the flexibility of two matched cameras (using Cinelike D) instead of one.

Sigma 16-28mm f2.8 L mount
I haven't really had much time to do anything with it but these are example grabs from 4K footage with the new to me Panasonic S5ii from the first couple of days after I picked it up.
Initial impressions are that it is fast focusing, sharp and although it is absolutely not distortion free (particularly on the wide end) but should definitely be considered by anyone with an E/L mount camera that needs a fast, constant aperture, very wide zoom.

 
 

It is the original AtomX Sync module that has been discontinued rather than the Connect.
Ironically, of course, the AtomX Sync works perfectly fine with the Zoom products 🙂 
The Connect does have a lot more utility over and above the timecode stuff though so its not a dead loss and I'm hopeful that Zoom will do the required firmware update.
But absent of any definite commitment from them, I'm likely seeing an UltraSync Blue having to enter the equation.

Right, so I've unpacked it, connected it and had a go at syncing a Zoom F2-BT and a Zoom H3-VR to it.
Absolutely nothing happening with either of them.
Updated the firmware on my Ninja V which in turn updated the firmware on the Connect.
Updated the firmware on both Zoom devices then verified that BLE works correctly on both of them with their respective Zoom Bluetooth control apps. 
Still nothing.
Then came across this comment on Atomos's YouTube channel under a promo for the Connect.

That was from 10 months ago so you'd imagine that if there was an issue that Atomos would have addressed it by now, particularly as the new firmware update that I put on the Ninja V for it was from only a week ago...
I then found this absolute bombshell on Atomos FAQ section, also, you will note, from a week ago.

Unbelievable.
They had been pimping the fuck out of the Connect with AtomX Switcher module bundle for the whole of May and have casually forgotten to point out until last week (the deal ended at the end of May) that it doesn't work with any Zoom recorders despite it being known from that YouTube comment for ten months.
That will only be the recorders that the vast majority of people (myself included) have bought this thing to work with then.
This incompatibility thing is a bit fishy as well considering that the Zoom products do work with Atomos' own UltraSync Blue and AtomX Sync modules which of course themselves also work with the Connect.  
What the fuck is up with that company ?
As I said in a previous post, there is always something with them isn't there?
In this case, it looks like you have to buy an UltraSync Blue to act as a bridge if you want to use Zoom products or wait for some vague possible maybe firmware update from Zoom.
 

Its more Raw Patrol than Paw Patrol here.

Right, so I've unpacked it, connected it and had a go at syncing a Zoom F2-BT and a Zoom H3-VR to it.
Absolutely nothing happening with either of them.
Updated the firmware on my Ninja V which in turn updated the firmware on the Connect.
Updated the firmware on both Zoom devices then verified that BLE works correctly on both of them with their respective Zoom Bluetooth control apps. 
Still nothing.
Then came across this comment on Atomos's YouTube channel under a promo for the Connect.

That was from 10 months ago so you'd imagine that if there was an issue that Atomos would have addressed it by now, particularly as the new firmware update that I put on the Ninja V for it was from only a week ago...
I then found this absolute bombshell on Atomos FAQ section, also, you will note, from a week ago.

Unbelievable.
They had been pimping the fuck out of the Connect with AtomX Switcher module bundle for the whole of May and have casually forgotten to point out until last week (the deal ended at the end of May) that it doesn't work with any Zoom recorders despite it being known from that YouTube comment for ten months.
That will only be the recorders that the vast majority of people (myself included) have bought this thing to work with then.
This incompatibility thing is a bit fishy as well considering that the Zoom products do work with Atomos' own UltraSync Blue and AtomX Sync modules which of course themselves also work with the Connect.  
What the fuck is up with that company ?
As I said in a previous post, there is always something with them isn't there?
In this case, it looks like you have to buy an UltraSync Blue to act as a bridge if you want to use Zoom products or wait for some vague possible maybe firmware update from Zoom.
 

My Connect and AtomX Cast bundle has shown up so I'm going to have a play with it over the next couple of days with a couple of Zoom products.
It only supporting two BLE devices (via a new firmware update no less!) is a bit of a nonsense though.
If they are going to move forward with it then they could definitely do with a new version of either the Blue or the One that has both BLE and LTC and I'm also hoping Atomos can persuade the likes of Panasonic to add support for the BLE timecode into their cameras as Nikon have done.

My Connect and AtomX Cast bundle has shown up so I'm going to have a play with it over the next couple of days with a couple of Zoom products.
It only supporting two BLE devices (via a new firmware update no less!) is a bit of a nonsense though.
If they are going to move forward with it then they could definitely do with a new version of either the Blue or the One that has both BLE and LTC and I'm also hoping Atomos can persuade the likes of Panasonic to add support for the BLE timecode into their cameras as Nikon have done.

Sigma 16-28mm f2.8 L mount
I haven't really had much time to do anything with it but these are example grabs from 4K footage with the new to me Panasonic S5ii from the first couple of days after I picked it up.
Initial impressions are that it is fast focusing, sharp and although it is absolutely not distortion free (particularly on the wide end) but should definitely be considered by anyone with an E/L mount camera that needs a fast, constant aperture, very wide zoom.

 
 

Sigma 16-28mm f2.8 L mount
I haven't really had much time to do anything with it but these are example grabs from 4K footage with the new to me Panasonic S5ii from the first couple of days after I picked it up.
Initial impressions are that it is fast focusing, sharp and although it is absolutely not distortion free (particularly on the wide end) but should definitely be considered by anyone with an E/L mount camera that needs a fast, constant aperture, very wide zoom.

 
 

As you already have the Ninja then it may be worth looking at the Atomos Connect which does a few different things (shoot to cloud, stream on set, adds SDI to the Ninja etc) but can act as the central timecode hub.
It will embed the timecode into whatever you are recording on the Ninja V (which would also take care of your footage handoff scenario) whilst also acting as the master wireless timecode source for the Atomos/TimecodeSytems family of products.
So you could attach an UltraSync One to anything that has a timecode input (such as your F4 or other cameras) and they would sync wirelessly and you could also do the same with your F3 (with the BTA-1 dongle) or anything else that supports their Bluetooth timecode protocol.
As the Atomos Connect provides the timecode over Bluetooth then you wouldn’t need the additional UltraSync Blue unit that is usually required to sync things like the F3.
So in that regard you can knock £180 off the price of the Atomos Connect due to that saving.
You’d then be also able to painlessly integrate other products such as the F2-BT lav recorder or even Tascam X8 or Nikon Z8/9.
I’m picking my Atomos Connect up the week after next (they had it in a heavily discounted bundle with the AtomX Cast which turns the Ninja V into a 4 camera switcher) so I’ll report back if it works as advertised!

Whilst its true that if you had the BT versions then you would be able to achieve it, even then its still not that straightforward/inexpensive as you would need the Ultrasync One for the camera and also the UltraSync Blue to connect to that to provide the BT timecode to the F2s.
With the non-BT versions you will have to rely on basic audio sync in post but that has got a lot slicker over the past couple of years so, whilst far from being as ideal as having TC sync, it will still do the job albeit with an additional burden on file handling and making sure the mics are rolling etc.
The issue with doing it through basic audio sync though is you still have to get good scratch audio into the camera to make the post syncing easier.
This is where using a Rode Wireless Go system (or similar) in tandem with the F2s will be a big advantage if you have access to them. 
The output of each F2 can be attached to the input of a Wireless Go as shown here in the Newsshooter review (https://www.newsshooter.com/2021/01/14/zoom-f2-review/).

The dual channel receiver can then be attached to the input of the 6K to provide good scratch audio of both F2s in the camera files whilst still taking advantage of the 32bit float audio of the recorder's own internal recordings.
Of course, this setup will also be a boon in terms of remote monitoring of the audio of the F2s.
Obviously you don't need to go the extra step with the transmitters/receivers and can just use any decent mic that you have around plugged into the camera but the audio monitoring aspect of such a setup for the F2s will potentially payoff in picking up issues.

So, some photography with my beloved GX85 and the beautiful Zeiss Tevidon 25mm 1.4. It was pretty tricky doing pictures during this beautiful street fest. Small EVF, heat, loud but cool music, MF with very small focus throw, 200.000 people, dancing all over the place and the overwhelming presence of all auto smartphone computers.:) But the pleasure was all mine that day!:)
 
 

For track and field, if you shoot laterally by either tracking eg. gimbal moving in parallel or from a fix point by panning the sense of speed will be very different depending of frame rate and shutter speed.

24fps 1/50 will look like they go much quicker than 60fps 1/120 or look even slower at 60fps 1/500. Even when taking photo only panning laterally  you would always want to have some slow shutter speed so 60fps 1/120 will yield good pictures.

Now if they run towards you and your camera is not really moving eg. tripod or handheld, it will not matter that much if is 24fps 1/50 or 60fps 1/500 in term of sense of speed. But for photo grabbing 1/250 or above would be required. 

So instead of sticking with the 180 rule I change the shutter speed based on the position and movements and again if the prio is photo or video or both.

Some examples of my video grabs:

Slow shutter 180 rule









The below one works as the camera is moving (tracking bike) at the same speed as the athlete, if the camera would be fixed it would be impossible to get a picture out

 
 
High shutter speed 1/500 and above











For me 4k would be too low as I crop quite a bit and also take vertical photos out of horizontal video. If you would do it a lot to take pictures out a 6k or above would be better in my opinion. 

So after what can only be described as a Devon Loch moment (ask your Dad) in the absolutely nailed on not going to change my mind purchase of a Nikon Z8, I now find myself joining you as a fellow Panasonic S5ii owner.
I had been struggling with the sunk cost fallacy aspect of buying the Z8 as a way of stopping my collection of pro Nikon glass collecting dust in the Peli cases but eventually bit the bullet and accepted reality.
The Z8 would indeed have given them an extended life but I’m not going to be hauling big f2.8 teles and zooms around with me any more so would you have eventually have to have caved and built up a Z mount collection to go with it.
Financially, that would be out of the question anyway and I couldn’t ignore the value proposition of the S5ii route.
So, after a bit of judicious choice of a combination of used and new offers and bundles, I’ve managed to acquire all of the following for roughly the same price as the Z8 and one of its Cf cards.
Panasonic S5ii
Panasonic 20-60mm f3.5-5.6
Panasonic 35mm f1.8
Panasonic 50mm f1.8
Panasonic 85mm f1.8
Sigma MC-21 EF-L adapter
Sigma 16-28mm f2.8
Sigma EVF for my Fp
As I have other L mount cameras (Leica SL and Sigma Fp) this collection will benefit all of them.
As I say, the value of getting not just a camera but three fast-ish primes, a very interesting kit zoom, a fast ultra wide zoom, the EF adapter and the long awaited completing part of my Fp puzzle couldn’t be ignored.
And all of them are light and compact compared to what I would’ve been rocking on the Z8.
Essentially, I went in for what I thought at my age might be a forever camera and walked out with my forever lens mount instead.
First impressions are that I don’t know enough about it yet to have any. It’s not to say I haven’t used it but it’s on all default settings, I haven’t really read the manual and I’m here on holiday so I haven’t/won’t put in the work to have a better  feel for it.
I’ll also defer judgement until after the imminent firmware update.
On a surface level, I’ve found the IBIS to be fairly impressive but the AF, whilst a huge leap forward over other L mount cameras that I’ve got, can be a bit of a mixed bag in lower light, particularly the face detect.
Again, I’ve got everything on default so I’m sure it can be tuned to be better.
What I will say as well is that the Sigma 16-28mm f2.8 is worth a look for anyone contemplating it.
 

So after what can only be described as a Devon Loch moment (ask your Dad) in the absolutely nailed on not going to change my mind purchase of a Nikon Z8, I now find myself joining you as a fellow Panasonic S5ii owner.
I had been struggling with the sunk cost fallacy aspect of buying the Z8 as a way of stopping my collection of pro Nikon glass collecting dust in the Peli cases but eventually bit the bullet and accepted reality.
The Z8 would indeed have given them an extended life but I’m not going to be hauling big f2.8 teles and zooms around with me any more so would you have eventually have to have caved and built up a Z mount collection to go with it.
Financially, that would be out of the question anyway and I couldn’t ignore the value proposition of the S5ii route.
So, after a bit of judicious choice of a combination of used and new offers and bundles, I’ve managed to acquire all of the following for roughly the same price as the Z8 and one of its Cf cards.
Panasonic S5ii
Panasonic 20-60mm f3.5-5.6
Panasonic 35mm f1.8
Panasonic 50mm f1.8
Panasonic 85mm f1.8
Sigma MC-21 EF-L adapter
Sigma 16-28mm f2.8
Sigma EVF for my Fp
As I have other L mount cameras (Leica SL and Sigma Fp) this collection will benefit all of them.
As I say, the value of getting not just a camera but three fast-ish primes, a very interesting kit zoom, a fast ultra wide zoom, the EF adapter and the long awaited completing part of my Fp puzzle couldn’t be ignored.
And all of them are light and compact compared to what I would’ve been rocking on the Z8.
Essentially, I went in for what I thought at my age might be a forever camera and walked out with my forever lens mount instead.
First impressions are that I don’t know enough about it yet to have any. It’s not to say I haven’t used it but it’s on all default settings, I haven’t really read the manual and I’m here on holiday so I haven’t/won’t put in the work to have a better  feel for it.
I’ll also defer judgement until after the imminent firmware update.
On a surface level, I’ve found the IBIS to be fairly impressive but the AF, whilst a huge leap forward over other L mount cameras that I’ve got, can be a bit of a mixed bag in lower light, particularly the face detect.
Again, I’ve got everything on default so I’m sure it can be tuned to be better.
What I will say as well is that the Sigma 16-28mm f2.8 is worth a look for anyone contemplating it.
 

So after what can only be described as a Devon Loch moment (ask your Dad) in the absolutely nailed on not going to change my mind purchase of a Nikon Z8, I now find myself joining you as a fellow Panasonic S5ii owner.
I had been struggling with the sunk cost fallacy aspect of buying the Z8 as a way of stopping my collection of pro Nikon glass collecting dust in the Peli cases but eventually bit the bullet and accepted reality.
The Z8 would indeed have given them an extended life but I’m not going to be hauling big f2.8 teles and zooms around with me any more so would you have eventually have to have caved and built up a Z mount collection to go with it.
Financially, that would be out of the question anyway and I couldn’t ignore the value proposition of the S5ii route.
So, after a bit of judicious choice of a combination of used and new offers and bundles, I’ve managed to acquire all of the following for roughly the same price as the Z8 and one of its Cf cards.
Panasonic S5ii
Panasonic 20-60mm f3.5-5.6
Panasonic 35mm f1.8
Panasonic 50mm f1.8
Panasonic 85mm f1.8
Sigma MC-21 EF-L adapter
Sigma 16-28mm f2.8
Sigma EVF for my Fp
As I have other L mount cameras (Leica SL and Sigma Fp) this collection will benefit all of them.
As I say, the value of getting not just a camera but three fast-ish primes, a very interesting kit zoom, a fast ultra wide zoom, the EF adapter and the long awaited completing part of my Fp puzzle couldn’t be ignored.
And all of them are light and compact compared to what I would’ve been rocking on the Z8.
Essentially, I went in for what I thought at my age might be a forever camera and walked out with my forever lens mount instead.
First impressions are that I don’t know enough about it yet to have any. It’s not to say I haven’t used it but it’s on all default settings, I haven’t really read the manual and I’m here on holiday so I haven’t/won’t put in the work to have a better  feel for it.
I’ll also defer judgement until after the imminent firmware update.
On a surface level, I’ve found the IBIS to be fairly impressive but the AF, whilst a huge leap forward over other L mount cameras that I’ve got, can be a bit of a mixed bag in lower light, particularly the face detect.
Again, I’ve got everything on default so I’m sure it can be tuned to be better.
What I will say as well is that the Sigma 16-28mm f2.8 is worth a look for anyone contemplating it.
 

Yes, the voice memo has been a standard feature on pro bodies for many years.
Operated as per the Z9 here by a dedicated button on the back panel.


 
Yes you could do that and there will be dedicated photo editors on the other end of your LAN cable who will do that for you even without the voice prompt (which you would mainly use for player identification for the caption anyway).
Not everyone has the luxury of an editing team though and not every match is covered that way either.
In those instances when you are on your own then having it in camera is the best solution and by best I mean fast because it’s all about getting the image onto the photo desk of the newspaper as quickly as possible. The bigger the file (as the unedited version would be) has speed implications all along the way from ingest into the laptop, editing and export and most importantly out of the stadium when you won’t always have the luxury of wired internet and will often be having to even tether off your phone.
Another less obvious advantage is in terms of navigating the image on the back of the camera for player identification and focus checking. If you’re using your 400mm as a 600mm because the opposite goal is so far away then you have one less button press to get it to the right size on playback on the camera. I know that sounds trivial but it isn’t (particularly in gloves in the pudding down rain) and every second counts when you might be having to quickly analyse a 30 shot burst to find the best one.
What a pity the Z8/Z9 only do it in video mode then, at least in the current firmware.