Thpriest

Can we not get the Canon C200 and the GH5 to have a love child which weighs the same as the GH5 and has 5 axis stab but has Canon look and ergonomics? Who's going to be first to leave the 2 cameras alone in a room together...

It's an interesting comparison, that's for sure. 
There's 2 types of people who buy cameras : those who do it for a hobby, and those who do it as a job. 
You have to ask yourself one question when buying a camera:
Does it make my life easier? 
This of course can be broken down into the size, weight, features etc that will give you an incredible advantage over what you already have. A significant difference that will change things for the better, when you're making videos. 
I have an FS5 with RAW upgrade and Shogun Inferno. I've spent little bits of the past few days to try and convince myself that a C200, EVA1 or even a GH5 would overall and fundamentally make my life easier. For the better. For the art. For the long term bank balance. 
How do you measure that? 
(p.s I much, much prefer using GH5 sized cameras above all else. I LOVE the pictures from a Canon. I don't love using the Sony, but they have all the features I need). 

@Andrew Reid Thank you Andrew, I believe that until the release of the camera (you don't have to edit something that doesn't exist yet!) all major NLE will support the codec (it is Canon we are talking about, not some brand!).
can anyone please provide the specific hardware that needed for 10 bit workflows (video cards, monitors, etc). Don't we need specific video cards (BM, Aja, Quadro at least) and specific monitors (that cost thousand of euros, I mean a lot of thousands, not just 1 thousands!)? What else do we need? Are the requirements same for raw?
@Andrew Reid I do not like the new voting system. First of all it is very antagonistic, why do we have to down vote? It will increase hostilities into the forum I guess, and I can not see easily who is up voting/down voting. I strongly prefer the older system.

its pretty hard for me to dislike my Gh5- i mostly use the old 12-35, 35-100 and voigtlander 25. i shoot wide open most of the time with the 12-35 and 35-100. Results are great.
 
High contrast shot- click into vlog, slo mo- one click and your there. need more reach- click on the etc mode. 
 
IS is pretty good on native lenses and ok on non native- handheld work is pretty damn good.
 
i shoot a lot of corporates, CEO s , council mayors, finished building projects, health department comms, a few weddings, sports events. But also shoot for love- pick up and play on GH5 is so easy.
 
Downsides- its small so i have to rig it with a mattebox and top handle/ cage for high end corporates to keep the suits happy.
battery life is a lot shorter than gh4.
all up its an epic offering

If you're after vintage, cheap, big constant aperture zoom range and parfocal then have a look at some B4 stuff.
I got this Angenieux for the LS300 as I needed it for the press conference stuff I do but obviously with it now being MFT mount I put it on the GX80 for a laugh!
Its 8.7mm f1.7 with a 15x zoom.
With the GX80 you have to deploy the internal doubler on the lens to get the image to fill the frame so its then 18mm-ish and f2.8 but the LS300 just laughs at that kind of behaviour and uses its VSM to scale it so you don't need the doubler. And it then makes it a 30x zoom by using its Prime Zoom function as well !
£200 for the lens, £70 for the adapter and about £50 for the battery plate, cable and Sony NP battery to power the servo zoom.
It is ever so slightly unbalanced on the GX80 obviously !
I'll put a bit of footage up of it when I get a chance if anyone is interested.
 

I'm dying to share! Asap
I will say - the project has occupied the greater part of my attention for the last four months, and is the result of a considerable amount of research, time, and investment

I have. It's ok, quite fast, small and cheap. I don't like how the manual focus works. If you are on a budget it is a good fastish* native prime to get started with if you are moving on from the native zooms.
I consider 0.95 to 1.4 to be fast on the m4/3

OK
So for anyone wanting to try this, I have made a really simple method to do it.
I have tested this numerous times on my GX80 and it has lived to tell the tale but obviously do this at your own risk.
All that this process does is fool the camera into thinking its talking to the smartphone app and then the commands it sends are exactly what the smartphone app sends. Or would do if the smartphone app thought it was talking to a camera equipped with Cinelike D !
So as such it is only getting sent what the Panasonic app would be sending to it so there are no hacky or sneaky debug things getting sent to it. 
Again, though, proceed at your own risk.
Although I would say, if you’ve tried that region switching hack on YouTube with the 10 million key press combos during power up then you’re already brave enough to try this!
Bear in mind that my unit is a GX80 and the firmware is version 1.0
If you have a GX85 or have got a different firmware then I just don’t know because obviously I haven’t got any other devices to test it on.
 
Here we go then….
Follow these instructions exactly and you should have Cinelike D on your GX80/85
You will need a laptop or a phone with a browser, the camera and to download the simple html file attached.
 
1) Switch on camera and turn on wifi as though you were connecting the app and you should see the waiting screen on the camera
2) Load the Deploy Cinelike D.html file into your browser
3) Select ‘Handshake’ 
4) You should see the browser page change and it confirm that its connected to a GX80
5) Hit the back key on the browser
6) Select ‘Connect’
7) You should see the browser page change to say ‘ok’ and the camera give you an ‘Under Remote Control’ message
8) Wait until the camera screen shows you a live view
9) Hit the back key on the browser
10) Select ‘Deploy’
11) You should see the browser page change to say ‘ok’ and the camera should NOT now be displaying the Photo Style you had selected (i.e. Standard, Vivid etc) 
12) Cinelike D is now active on the camera
13) If you go into the menu on the camera and select Photo Style you will see that it is blank and you can’t navigate to other Photo Styles such as Standard etc. 
14) To restore the Photo Styles hit the back button on the browser and select ‘Restore’ and the camera will display the Standard photo style and you should then be able to go into Photo Styles and change them.
15) Repeat 9-14 to switch between them to your hearts content!
 
So, like other settings, the Cinelike D profile will persist when you switch the camera off so if you want to use the other Photo Styles again then you MUST go this process again to re-enable them.
However, if you would like to switch between them without using this method again (and who wouldn’t) here is a neat way round it.
When you’ve done Step 12 and got Cinelike D on, set all your other parameters (4K24p etc) as you’d like them and save these into C1 of the custom settings.
Then go to Step 14 and use the ‘Restore’ to get your standard Photo Styles back, set all your other parameters (4K24p etc) as you’d like them and then save these into C2 of the custom settings.
Now when you switch the camera on, you simply choose C1 to have Cinelike D or C2 for the standard Photo Styles and forget about using any nonsense about using browsers and wifi connections!
 
In couple of weeks I’m hoping to show you how you can do stuff like this and some other useful bits and pieces from a little hardware gadget that will work on the Panasonic cameras but have fun with this in the meantime.
DEPLOY CINELIKE D.html

All very interesting. Keep up the good work!

No, its easy and it does persist on switch off.
But that can be an issue as once you've enabled it you then needed to then use the wifi to go back to the other profiles.
And when I say 'you then needed to' I mean in the past tense as I've worked out a way to make it permanently switchable in camera using the C functions so you dedicate one of them to being Cinelike D and you must have one of the others set to Standard or another one of the profiles so you can switch back to them otherwise you'd have to use the wifi.
I'm working on something that will be quite the useful little standalone gadget for these Panasonic cameras but for now it can be done using a laptop or phone.
I do have an LX100.
It currently does 'something' and I just need to work out why that 'something' isn't currently the 'something' we want it to do.

So, this is really cool. When you turn it on, does it stay on, or do you have to "flip the switch" every time you turn the camera on?
Also can you try, over wi-fi, for a mic input to appear...

As per the image above, it is very close to Cinelike D.
By which I mean, it actually is Cinelike D

So, as some of you may know, I've been "experimenting" with having little chats with different Panasonic cameras over WiFi and after whispering in the GX80s ear last night, I may have come up with something quite interesting.
The first image is a grab from a GX80 using its Standard profile.
The second image is a grab from a GX80 that is definitely not using the Standard profile.......

Pan GX80 + Pan 42,5 mm 1.7
WB - auto
Portrait -1,-5,-5,-3 
i.dynamic - auto
sh/li - 0/0
Skintone is perfect for me, Printscreen Video RAW without adjustments directly from the camera , 1080/50p , It's a surprise for me

very nice!

Made up my mind on lenses 

Obviously I am referring to every single human being and extraterrestrial life force in the entire multiverse that purchased the GH5... what else would I mean?
Thanks though, I'll remember hyperbole is frowned upon on this forum.
??

Very nice but isn't she a bit young to be getting married???
Seriously, nice images. Can I ask what lenses and settings you are using for your weddings?

The Voigtlander 25mm may be one of the nicest lenses I've ever used. The mix of modern/visual IQ with such a fast lens can be both breathtaking and utilitarian for a single lens. Would love to see the 17.5mm or 25mm used with an LS300 with the prime zoom function... hmm... maybe I should make that happen. 

Great info. I had been using E stabilisation along with IBIS with my manual lenses. It worked well enough although I didn't like the crop and on a couple of occasions I saw something a bit weird and jerky. Yesterday I only used IBIS with the Voigtlander 25 0.95* and it worked really well, very smooth and with a much reduced crop. I'll be going that way from now on. 
I also have been giving the EosPro Luts a final chance after having been disappointed before. Whilst there are some situations you have to be wary of, like a lot of sky or over exposed shots, I have found that it has given me pretty good results when dialled back to between 60 and 75%. Coming from Canon it gives me a result much closer to Canon colour. I'm going keep experimenting with it for now.
* I must say that I really like this lens and I am finding that I prefer it over the Panasonic lenses that I have (25 and 42.5 1.7). It just seems to give the Lumix a different feel, both using the camera and the resulting image.

What I think some people are missing is that there are three main modes of image stabilization.
1. The default "stabilization" is 5-axis IBIS - as in, physical mechanical movement of the sensor to compensate for unintended camera motion.
2. The "dual-IS" modes use the physical stabilization of the lens (usually 2-axis) plus additional stabilization of the sensor (usually the other 3) to accomplish the same thing, but because the lens handles some of those axes optically the correction can appear more natural. 
3. E-stabilization is nothing more than applying something like 'warp stabilizer' to the footage coming off the sensor digitally, just in-camera. As a result, all of the issues with that sort of stabilization (including the crop and focus issues, if you're pulling very tight focus) are going to be present, because you aren't physically moving the sensor.
This is true for all Panasonics with 5-axis IBIS in-body.
Combining e-stabilization with physical stabilization is not usually a good idea, as it can introduce these artifacts. On the other hand, if you absolutely need the centre of your shot to be as steady as possible, combining the two may do that in some cases (but I can guess, though I don't have proof, that in some other cases it might make the problem worse). 
Usually the only time you really want e-stab is when you are turning OFF IBIS, e.g. because your lenses have a very small image circle and the IBIS exceeds that. In that case e-stabilization can be better than nothing, although honestly most of the post solutions are likely to be more effective and allow you the option of choice of stabilization method before baking the image into your file. 

No... not in theory. The GX80/85 has 5 axis IBIS on the sensor regardless of E stabalisation settings.

Try both and use what you like best. It's been a point of contention in this thread. Personally, I don't use the electronic stabalisation.

Hi Ki,
You can go take a look on http://timelapsenetwork.com/
I'm a contributor there. Basically the key of hyperlapse is the shooting phase, you must be very accurate. For post processing use the tracker in AE. There are tutorials on youtube.