gt3rs

So you have EF lenses… then why you simply just buy a used R5 + adapter and try out, worse case you can resell the R5 for a small loss.
EF lenses works better on R body than on DSLR.
 

You can't really go wrong with both systems. Today Z8 is probably the best bang for the bucks.

I shoot with R5 and R5c since the release I'm very happy, you can search my posts here tons of discussion.
R5 overheating is a thing of the past, this summer I was shooting under the sun 8k 25 RAW with on top an iphone 13 pro max in 4k... and the iphone shut down due to overheating and the R5 kept going...
Having said this I think we will se a new R5 early next year as is now more than 3.5 years old.... so not the best moment to buy it. I think R1 will also show up in first half but who knows.
R3 is an amazing camera but I don't want to go back to 24mpix and non 8k video.
My preferred one is the R5c but once you decide Nikon vs Canon we can go deeper in the differences.

Canon has some unique zooms that you may find interesting for your job:
RF 24-105 2.8 (optional power zoom) with one lens you maybe able to cover most of your need.
RF 28-70 2.0, I love this lens, no more primes to carry around, switching lens, etc. Sold all my primes other than a el cheapo 16 2.8.
RF 70-200 2.8, some love it some not due that is an extending design, but is super small and light weight, I use mine on gimbal quite a bit.
RF 100-300 2.8 cost a fortune but is great for sports.

With two super expensive lenses and a 1 TC you can cover almost everything 24-105 2.8 100-300 2.8

If you even plan to acquire or rent cinema cameras, canon RF mount lenses may be a better choice than Z lenses as both Canon and RED have, and will have cinema camera with this mount.

In their older cameras that I have (GO2, RS, 1 Inch) they have Log profile but is 8bit only and not particularly great. So not sure I would count on it. It would be great.

The 8k 24 is a strange story as apparently reviewers are not allowed to post 8k 24, only one so far did it.

Looking forward to see some real work and not these YT reviewers madness.

Several issues with photo lens: 
Most have focus-by-wire, which I find extremely annoying. Most have very short focus throws. Most have no aperture rings and can only set aperture electronically. Most have lots of plastic and aren't as robust as cine lenses. None have 0.8 MOD focus and aperture gearing. Most don't have consistent front diameters across the line. Little correction for focus breathing.

Ok I'm convinced, in camera AI motion blur not usable... already in Resolve is a bit of a hit and miss but this example is really not good at all.

Looks like available from scratch...
 

What do you mean?  It looks flawless to me!!!  

😂😂😂
Doing it in post in Resolve looks like it might be a mature enough solution now, but I can't imagine that devices will be good enough to do it real-time for quite a few years.  I started a separate thread about this semi-recently:
https://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/78618-motion-blur-in-post-looks-like-it-might-be-feasible-now/
 

Have you considered a C500 MK2 

6k, Internal ND, Great lowlight performance, great latitude and good dynamic range, internal RAW and 10 bit capability. 

Pretty well designed package that works great for building up or building down, good battery life. 

To me IQ/usability wise it would be the C500 MK2 or the RED Monstro. In that price range they are the top performers. With the Monstro you have to deal with 8k but you have tons of compression options. You're getting better dynamic range and color depth over the C500. Only downside is no internal ND's, probably more expensive media (redmags), and power consumption is higher(though not terrible). 

I see some mentions of the S1H. I think it's a great bang for your buck camera. Great battery life, great sensor. They sell used now for incredibly cheap.

Downsides are the HDMI out latency is terrible, slow rolling shutter, no internal 12 bit/RAW, and color isn't the greatest compared to higher end cameras. Again you can get great images out of it and for a hobby camera it would excel. If you are looking for a more high end experience I just don't think that would be it. In terms of value it is incredible though. 

I might also suggest an ARRI Alexa XT, but that might be too far into the too heavy spectrum. It's quite a beast. 

For me is more make sure that I buy only things that I 100% confident that I will constantly use or that are not available for rent if I need it just for one project. And more so if I don't use them enough resell them asap. 

My TCO of not super useful accessories seems bigger that the TCO of my cameras and lenses 

Lots of great discussion, which I find very helpful--thanks guys!
I thought I'd offer some clarification of a few things.
First, let's avoid too much talk about wasting money and motives. As I've said, I'm just a hobbyist and spending $10K on a new camera is not a financial burden at all.
As I originally stated, my main application is scenics. Not necessarily wildlife, except where wildlife happens to be present--we don't go out of our way to shoot birds and other wildlife, hence we have no need for long lenses.
Weight and bulk aren't too big a concern either as most of our work is done close to the car or within a mile of the car. I have a cart that I use to carry things when walking more than a hundred yards from the car. My prior still photography experience is large format, so I'm used to carrying big, bulky things.
Several have mentioned budgeting for other equipment. I already have most of this covered as I have a nice Sachtler fluid head and tripod, a Zoom sound recorder and Rode shotgun mic, filters, etc. Sure, I could upgrade some of this, particularly the microphone as some suggested, but I think I have most of the basics covered.
Regarding sound, most of what we record near the camera is unusable due to crowds of people talking, cars passing on the road, wind noise, etc. I end up replacing 95% of recorded sound with music anyway.
For lenses, I plan to start buying cine lenses in PL mount. I wish I could afford ARRI Signature Primes or Zeiss Supreme Primes, but that's not in the cards. I'm looking more along the lines of the DZO Vespids, so in other works, around $1000-1500 per lens. I'll probably get these in FF even if I end up with a Super35 camera, just to make them a little more future-proof.
One big want is reliability. I try to buy the most reliable things I can. As a private pilot, I'm especially sensitive to reliability concerns--I've never had to make an engine-out emergency landing on a golf course or highway, and I prefer it that way! I want my camera equipment to be just as reliable.
Covering some of the other points people raised:
Slow motion. Don't need it. I think it looks too cliché in nature videos. DR. Yes, important. Sharpness. Important. Low-light. Somewhat less important. Twilight yes, nightline shooting, no. AF. Absolutely not needed. TC. Not important. Gimbal compatibility. Not important. Shallow DOF. Not important. I prefer lots of DOF. RAW. I think I'd like having RAW based on experience grading RAW footage I've downloaded. Rolling shutter. Not an issue as I shoot on a tripod 100% and do slow pans. Battery life. Not a big deal as I'll have spares close by. Internal ND. A real plus, but not a dealbreaker.  Anamorphic. Nope.

Looks interesting, curious to see the 8k 24fps quality once is available, the 2x zoom sensor crop seems kind of ok so I expect the 8k to be quite good for this type of camera.
Also curios to see how the "AI" motion blur works compared to do it manually in Resolve. 
From the first videos around low light it is still not great but much better than any other action cam on the market.

A pity that it seems to be missing 10bit log and user replaceable lens. I wish they would also offer an add-on even wider lens for POV like the MAX MOD 2, very useful for MTB, Ski and Snowboarding.
8k at 25fps would have been nice too as it is only 1 fps more so probably doable, maybe with firmware?.

As @eatstoomuchjam mentions insta360 studio and I also add the iOS App are the best from any action cam manufacturer and they continue to improve them.

XF-AVC on the C70 is, unless I'm mistaken, a 10-bit 4:2:2 version of H.264 in a fancy wrapper.  I think there's an all-I mode so it should be alright, but it won't stop editors from giving me an unhappy look when I hand over footage.  Regardless of technical merits, people really like ProRes.  🙂
For a lot of stuff, I'll probably use the lighter of the two raw formats that it offers (except for overcranking past 60fps where it's not available).   It's just not good for quick turnaround (like 48 hour film project stuff).
 
Yeah, the integrated (or small first-party add-on) EVF is really nice to have.  I'm sure that Zacuto make some sort of rubber band contraption that can go on the integrated screen for like $3,000, though.  Then you can pretend you have an EVF and lose all use of the touch screen.

As far as the cine lens size/weight, I've used CN-E's a lot with my E2-F6 which is smaller and lighter than the C70.  By the time you add a handle and screen to the body and put rails on the front for your focus motor, etc, the "small" cinema camera bodies become "not so very small" and I haven't found the size/weight of CN-E to be a problem, at least.  If OP wants to use Arri Master Prime, that might be a different calculation.  😉

I too was tempted to go give a lol reaction instead a like
But I support @QuickHitRecord on their impossible mission!

I have been spending too much money on equipment in recent years, and WAY too much time researching it. I really don't need anything else in terms of kit. What I do need is to replace my wardrobe and make some repairs to my home and my vehicle. Also, I'd like to spend more time producing passion projects.

So, I'm making a commitment that I will not buy any new gear between November 30th, 2023 and November 29th, 2024 (got to give myself the option to take advantage of Black Friday deals). If I need a specialty piece of gear, I will rent it.

The exceptions are expendables and direct replacements, should anything I'm using break down.

I've never done this before and I'm posting this to help keep myself accountable.

Certainly has to be considered, but 'proper' video cameras are just so much nicer to shoot with. I'm a mere hobbyist, but I just far prefer the ergos of a decent dedicated video camera. In fact I'm currently eagerly awaiting the 370hrs FS& I just magaed to pick up for GBP695 (trading in my Lumix G9)!

If you can't tell the difference in a camera with about 14 stops of dynamic range at SNR=1 and a camera with 12.1 stops of dynamic range at SNR=1 - or you can't see the difference in 28ms of rolling shutter vs 9ms of rolling shutter when the camera moves, then you probably shouldn't be dispensing camera advice to anybody, ever.

It's not to say that a camera with only 11 stops of DR and 30ms rolling shutter is unable to produce a nice-looking image.  I was thrilled with my 5D Mark II at the time and compared with modern cameras, it had terrible DR and RS.  Especially with ML, you could shoot with that camera today and come up with something that looks better than half of what I see entered in local film contests.  Similar things could be said of the GH2 or GH5.  However, the question asked by the OP isn't "what low-budget camera can I buy and find ways to work around its limitations to get the results that I want?"

Also, some of the nicer options suggested (including the C70 that I was just talking about) are already pretty light and remove the need to buy a decent set of ND's.

To me the camera on the ronin is a Sony and I would guess is A7s III

Ditto. The source as with any/all info is key, not just ‘some YouTube channel’ of which there are several million.
And especially if it’s someone sat at their desk with purple backlighting, baseball cap on backwards, doesn’t have, never has had, nor never will have, said piece of kit, yet has an ‘informed’ opinion.
I prefer the freelancers over the brand ambassadors also, for obvious reasons.

On modern HW, Macs >=M1 and Intel >= Gen12 CPUs, h265 4:2:2 10bit is not an issue anymore. I can edit real-time 8k h265 10bit on Intel Gen13 CPU. I don't see a huge difference in speed h265 4k and 8k ALL-I vs IPB.
On modern HW no need for proxy especially in 4k timelines. I edit mostly 8k RAW on a high end gaming notebook no proxy needed.
For Resolve keys are:
- studio version
- Intel >= gen12 
- GPU with 8 GB RAM




 

Still not sure why you are choosing between FX9 vs C300 II?
Full frame: FX9 vs C500 II vs RED V-Raptor 
or 
S35: FX6 vs C300 III (C70) vs RED Komodo X
RED and Canon have internal RAW. Sony not.

I bet Canon will update beginning of next year the C300 and/or the C500 to move to RF mount as the C70. They just released the cinema primes in RF and now the new RF 24-105 2.8 power zoom so the road is clear. 
RED already using RF mount. It may or may not a concern for you.

Sony is E mount so is all modern and good there.

I'm sure you would be happy with any of the camera above. But first you should ask yourself which look you like: super sharp high DR or more soft dreamy?
Also do you heavily color grade including big white balance changes etc. or your are looking more to a natural style.
A FF 8k/6k RAW camera with a photo lens will produce a sharper and provably a bit more HDR look than a S35 4k with a cinema lens....
 

Thanks for sharing your impressions.  Your description is pretty much how I was expecting it to perform.
I think, for me, the take-aways are:
you own one and have real-world experience in uncontrolled conditions it's not as good as a real camera it's good enough to use in professional gigs, even if only in a limited capacity

I got my iPhone 15 Pro Max (upgrade from 13 Pro Max) and some early observations:
 
Quality is good when in shooting good conditions but breaks quite quickly if you miss exposure, in low light, etc.
Log files can be graded easily and have no over-sharpening, can take some post processing but way less than R5c RAW files, the difference imo is night and day as it should be. The same for details compared to R5c is just worlds apart.
BMD does not allow you to use 2x lens, zooming 2x with the 24mm lens the quality is quite bad (very blotchy, full hd at max). I did not test yet with the apple camera and the 2x “cropped” lens to see if is better.
No Log + Cinematic in either Apple Camera or BMD
H265+Log is a good compromise size vs. Quality and you can record all fps internally.
120mm lens I find it a bit better quality than the 77mm of the 13, and a more useful focal range for what I normally cover.
I have BMD set to save to Files, then I connect a USB-C CFexpress or SSD and move the files in Files, is the quickest and easier method for PC users. Much better that the previous phone that was a nightmare to get the footage out from a PC.
Action button is useful as you can set to start or even start recording in the BMD.
Still need to get use to the BMD UI, with no hw button/wheels changing things rapidly is a bit of a pain for me.
 
Overall, with Log and the 120mm is big update and I will use it even more than my previous phone, especially as B or C cam.
Using it as a main camera is a big stretch and I think I will be mostly disappointed.
 
Frame grab 4k Log 120mm.

50% video, 50% photo work almost all action related.

Paid, YT + social media + local TV, professional level:
Equestrian, Ice hockey, MTB, Trial bike, Ski & Snowboard alpine/freeride, motorsports GT & Rally.
 
Hobby:
Wildlife, Aviation, Family
 
A cam: R5c
B cam: R5
C cam: Insta360 1 inch, Insta360 RS and Insta360 GO, iPhone
 
My biggest usage for the iPhone is on top of my R5c especially when I’m using long lenses >=300mm to have a wider pov, for equestrian it is my standard setup. Or in places where a normal camera is too cumbersome e.g. some b-roll inside a cramped helicopter.
 
 
Btw I’m pretty sure that all the “YT guess iPhone 15 vs best camera in the market” they start with the best conditions for a phone, then grade what the iPhone can take and then have the more pro camera match it. The inverse would show a different story imo. Again, it is incredible the progress that iPhone had in the last years but still not comparable to a good camera. Imo it sits closer to a Gopro than a mirrorless camera. Super useful feature are the 3 focal lenses, good stabilization, log and you have it always with you.
 
 

50% video, 50% photo work almost all action related.

Paid, YT + social media + local TV, professional level:
Equestrian, Ice hockey, MTB, Trial bike, Ski & Snowboard alpine/freeride, motorsports GT & Rally.
 
Hobby:
Wildlife, Aviation, Family
 
A cam: R5c
B cam: R5
C cam: Insta360 1 inch, Insta360 RS and Insta360 GO, iPhone
 
My biggest usage for the iPhone is on top of my R5c especially when I’m using long lenses >=300mm to have a wider pov, for equestrian it is my standard setup. Or in places where a normal camera is too cumbersome e.g. some b-roll inside a cramped helicopter.
 
 
Btw I’m pretty sure that all the “YT guess iPhone 15 vs best camera in the market” they start with the best conditions for a phone, then grade what the iPhone can take and then have the more pro camera match it. The inverse would show a different story imo. Again, it is incredible the progress that iPhone had in the last years but still not comparable to a good camera. Imo it sits closer to a Gopro than a mirrorless camera. Super useful feature are the 3 focal lenses, good stabilization, log and you have it always with you.