gt3rs

38 minutes ago, Anaconda_ said:

I'm under the impression that there's a phone app coming that could start/stop recording over bluetooth. Of course, that's only good if it does actually start/stop in the first place.

I don't think these devices have BT so I bet you would need to plug them in to USB/Lighting etc..

Also now all the devices need an app and is really time consuming when in a rush... find the app, open the app, connect to the device, press a button, close the app as you need another one for the gimbal, camera, tripod 🙂  etc..

Why not a simple double press of the transmitter button to start and stop and call it a day?

I'm still puzzled that they did not offer the possibility to start and stop on the transmitter so you could even use the transmitter as standalone recorder. Also they should give the possibility to remove this stupid 15 min timeout.

Regarding bugs welcome to the new world of end user beta testing.....

Seems cool but with the mass and speed seems also very dangerous compared to some tiny lightweights cinewhoops

No 32bit float although it maybe implemented in the future or maybe not.

https://www.rode.com/blog/all/Wireless-GO-II-On-Board-Recording-and-Audio-Export-Modes-Explained

32 bit float export is useless at the moment imo is there just to confuse or marketing

In general I prefer the EF lens as the vND adapter is just too good to pass, plus you can buy some good ones "cheap" on the used market.

I have the RF 35 1.8 (mostly for is compactness so I can keep it the jacket pocket) and the RF 70-200 2.8 (my EF 70-200 had an accident 😞 and the weight/size of the new one was too hard to pass), If the RF 70-200 F4 would have had a tripod collar would have been maybe even a better choice.

I don't do stuff on sound sensitive places yet the RF 35 1.8 I find it a bit disturbing.

I have these EFs and to me they seems all quite quiet in term of AF all USM:

16-35 2.8 II

24 1.4 II

50 1.2

24-70 2.8 II

200-400 4

13 minutes ago, UncleBobsPhotography said:

I second this. I found the RF 50mm f/1.2 tempting, but after trying it I realized the focusing system was way too loud and the autofocus was quite jerky as well. I'm using an STM lens instead, and although it's not perfectly silent it's much more quiet and the focusing is smoother. It seems like the budget RF lenses are more suitable for video than the L RF glass.

The 70-200 2.8 RF is very smooth, silent and fast compared to the RF 35 1.8 so not sure you can generalize. 

8 minutes ago, Anaconda_ said:

I think they're also working on a Android/iOS app, which might help with the recording part. Start/Stop would be fantastic. If you're leaving it running all day, maybe use the compressed version for 24 hours of recorded audio? Or if you only need one of the mics, switch them after 6ish hours? 

But records uncompressed. Honestly, I don't even know what that means, but I imagine there's enough headroom. Will have to wait for real world tests.

From the spec it seems to record 24bit uncompressed and you can export 32 bit float but not sure what is the advantage compared to 24bit ....

I find quite noisy to be honest the RF 35 AF motor... also AF is not the fastest in town..... image quality is good and size and price great.

I hope that they will cone out with a 24mm version. As a compact travel 24mm plus 50mm 1.8 would be great.

RF 35 1.8 screen grabs from 8k RAW:

I think will upgrade from go to go ii as the two transmitters plus better range and internal recording are very useful to me but:

- If I understand well is not recording 32bit float, just exporting in 32bit....

- internal recording starts as soon as you connect to the receiver this is great but if it loses the connection for more than 15min it will stop and turn off, rarely but sometime is an issue for me as I put the go on an athlete that is doing warmup somewhere else.... wish it has a start and stop indipendently from the receiver connectivity. The 15min shutdown is also on the previous go. It should be a setting.

Previous go was very reliable but range was not great. The new one should be better and with the bk recording on transmitter is more worry free. Also the windshield lock in the old one was a joke the new one seems better

4 hours ago, Mark Romero 2 said:

Thanks, I will see if it can lock it somehow. The only issue is that I do NEED the ability to double tap the trigger to get the camera back to straight and level.

On Ronin S is a separate setting. I can still do the double trigger to get gimbal center again.

3 hours ago, Mark Romero 2 said:

Thanks for sharing your experience with this, @Trek of Joy @gt3rs @scotchtape @UncleBobsPhotography

I think with my weebill S the main problem would be if I accidentally press the function button three times in a row (instead of two times) which puts the gimbal in to selfie mode. So maybe spinning around the camera would cause the LCD to crash in to the extension handle .

My weebill s is a bit temperamental in that it when I want to click the function button twice (to bring the camera back to straight and level), it ends up acting like I clicked it three times.

On Ronin S you can disable selfie mode etc... I did it to avoid these mistakes not sure if it can be done on weebill s...

I use only with the screen flipped out, it is the whole point of have having a screen that flips out that helps on gimbal tremendously. Before I was using an external monitor as anything not eye level would be a pain. 

You should balance the camera with already the screen flipped out. 

I never hit the screen to the gimbal so far, but a bit of risk is there but only in extreme conditions....

2 hours ago, Trek of Joy said:

This is a pretty cool small solution - a clamp with the platform adapter and a ball head. https://digital-photography-school.com/manfrotto-super-clamp/

I feel your pain, I travel a lot and wind up carrying more support gear than needed, and something like a gorillapod just isn't very solid. I recently sold my 1kg Siuri CF travel tripod for larger, more sturdy setup that I can add a flat base video head to - and at times I really wish I would have kept the smaller one as well. So now I'm looking for another LOL!

Chris

This is exactly how I mount for most of my remote camera work. Add a safety lanyard to the camera strap holder, super clamp etc just in case that super clamp get loose for whatever reason. The critical part is when mounting and dismounting as if something fall it can injure. Normally I prepare all in the ground, fix the lanyard first and then mount so that nothing can accidentally fall.
You should also check the insurance, here in stadium if you don't have a professional insurance you cannot mount anything anywhere (rightly so).

Again in all top league hockey in the world we mount the camera in the goal with a single super clamp, it never happen to me that it did come completely loose.... and yes goaltender hits it, puck hits it, the whole goal is moved out some time..

59 minutes ago, androidlad said:

A1 seems to have insane rolling shutter performance for video. Only 2ms for 8K 30P, thanks to DRAM being made available for video read-out modes for the first time ever.

In stills mode, this increases to 5ms @14bit readout.

This is really impressive

Not sure what kind of revelation is this. Also not sure why the A1 bring something new here, actually on some canon body you get RAW so you have almost zero quality loss in taking still from video, I only wish there would be an open gate mode.

The only thing that really change is the shutter speed but there sometime you get cool panned shoot if you are 1/50 vice versa for other scenes you could optimize more for the photo. New gen care less about the shutter speed as with games and gopro/phone video is all very high shutter speed stuff.

Advantage of taking still from video is that you have more choice, sometime you capture moments that you would not have anticipated and pressed the shutter button and of course you have the whole video. Disadvantage is the workflow and shutter speed.
I use a lot of remote camera, I trigger them with pocketwizard with an additional button mounted on the lens barrel so for hockey net remotes is great you don't want to record 60 min and scroll through to find the righ moment. But for sport that are more predictable like horse showjumping now I start the record maybe 20 sec before it reaches the obstacle and stop 20 sec after so I don't need to worry. In some key phases I have just turn on recoding before it starts.

Sill from video at higher shutter speed:

Mini 2

Canon R5

Insta360 1 inch

Insta360 dual lens

 

At 1/50
 

10 minutes ago, zerocool22 said:

Not a fan of mac. So I will have to wait on a PC alternative. A lot can happen in a year, and I dont have any jobs right now anyhow. 

New intel chips should have quick sync HW h265 10bit 4:2:2 but is such a mess to find the right spec....

47 minutes ago, Django said:

The upcoming firmware with Clog3 & RAW Light is also promising.

Not sure about the story of RAW Light:

Canon C500 II 5.9K RAW data rate 2100 MBits

Canon R5 8K RAW data rate 2600 Mbits

So per pixel R5 is more light than RAW light on C500....

28 minutes ago, SteveV4D said:

When I playback 25p footage from my Drone on a 24p project setting in Resolve, I often experience stuttering.  Once I change the attributes of the files to 24p, the playback is a lot smoother.  So I wonder if from that, then its true there is some issues with playback if mistakes are made when dealing with a 24p timeline.

This I think is normal, if you put a 25p on 24p timeline Resolve needs to adapt to depending on your retiming settings in the project it will have some sort of issue (frame blend, frame skip, whatever) but it will playback at the original speed. If you change the attribute to 24p basically you are slowing down your video by 4%, for a drone shoot it may not be noticeable but for other things yes. Basically is playing it back at 24 instead of 25 so your clip is longer by 4% and slower by 4%.

I have the R5 and the 1Dx III but not the R6 but the 1Dx III being somewhat similar (probably the same) sensor I may help a bit.

R5 FF 4k vs 1Dx III FF 4k is very similar as you say but the rolling shutter is a huge difference.

R5 4k 120 is miles ahead of 1Dx III 1080 120….. not even fair.

R5 4k LQ is miles ahead of 1Dx III 1080

On the processing of RAW vs. 10bit other than on an M1 or waiting on the new intel CPUs the RAW is way faster in Resolve PC. RAW is much faster. The problem for is mostly storage so it depends on your usage and archiving strategy. I would suggest downloading some files 10bit and RAW and compare on your machine.

So far I never hit the recording limit of the R5 and I mostly shoot RAW or 4k 120. But here is cold and I do a lot of 1-2min max takes with breaks in between. Before I was turning the camera off between takes now I don’t bother anymore.

But having say that not sure I would live with the R6 risk that I cannot shoot 4k…….. as I said 4k LQ is way better that full hd actually imo is a solid 4k….

R5 big plus:

- Rolling shutter

- RAW

- very usable 120fps

- Non overheating 4k modes FF and S35

R6 plus:
- cheaper
- 4k 60fps quality

Are these worth 2k more? Only you can really answer this.

18 minutes ago, Trek of Joy said:

As a run and gun shooter that's 50/50 stills/video I'd get the a1 over the others without hesitation. Maybe the c70 and a R5 for photos, definitely not the Komodo. But I'm sticking with the a7sIII for video work and a7III for photos and a video backup, its a beast and I prefer the sIII flippy screen over the a1's. If I want more mp with photos I can just get a used a7rIV at about $2k and still have 2 bodies to cover everything. My a7sIII is my second photo body for now.

Cheers

Chris

I'm curios to see why a a1 is better than an R5 for video. Both have limits in 8k, both can do 4k FF without overheating but not oversampled so where is the difference? Actually the R5 can do 8k RAW and also 4:2:2 and DCI and 4k FF oversampled although time limited, better lcd for gimbal work. I see nothing in a1 for video that is better other than oversampled S35.

Maybe the a1 image quality is was better than the R5 but I doubt.
 

54 minutes ago, JurijTurnsek said:

30 fps is lossy compress raw. Seems like they could've done RAW video in some limited form. I wonder why they even designed the sensor to capture 8.6K and not a simple 8K image like Canon did. Seem counter-intuitive.

From the spec:

[ii] “Hi+” continuous shooting mode. In focus modes other than AF-C, effective at 1/125 sec. or higher shutter speed. In AF-C mode, effective at 1/250 sec. or higher shutter speed, and the maximum continuous frame rate will depend on the shooting mode and lens used. 20 fps max. when shooting Uncompressed or Lossless compressed RAW.

It really seems that 4k FF is not oversampled only S35 is but the spec are so cryptic..... also no 8k DCI or 4k DCI.

Nice thing is 1/400 flash sync with mechanical shutter, the EVF seems also great.

I don't like that it has no articulating screen as is much better imo for gimbal like ronin S etc..

It seems a very solid and interesting release but as always devil is in the details:

- 8k max 30min... 4:2:0 only, this we know
- 4k FF is it oversampled or binned/line skipped? S35 they mention is oversampled from 5.8k but no mention for FF
- 4k 120 FF is 10% crop
- 30fps still shooting seems jpg only, still RAW is max 20fps
- mechanical shutter max 10fps, for sport with LED not great

Why not use the Manfrotto 2909 Super Clamp with 2907 Reversible Short Stud 2909 (bhphotovideo.com)

 I use them everywhere from Basket, Hockey Nets, Stadium rails to Balcony.

Long exposure mounted on a balcony rail:

Long exposure mounted on a wood pier:

Mounted on the hockey net

On 1/9/2021 at 3:12 AM, Video Hummus said:

nice! Are you using the 8K mode as a high frame rate capture mode for photos?

So Delkin CFX Type B is good for 8K RAW. Any slow down in startup times? Currently I have a 256GB Angelbird but I’ve heard the bigger capacity Angelbird cards increase camera boot times for some reason.
 

The Delkin 2 TB does not slow down the startup. Startup is basically immediate as with the SandDisk 512 GB. I only use CFExpress so I did not incur on the active slot issue...

For the posted frame goal was both video and photo. With sports you can get away with higher shutter speed so you get both in one take. Advantage of using continuous light is that you can get the perfect frame either at 20fps or 30fps if doing video (so no need to do multiple try for the same trick that they hate), disadvantage is that they are way less powerful than strobes, only ok for late afternoon and no sun....