Justin Bacle

For tungsten use RAW and get 80A filter. The only side effect is that you loose 1 stop of the light with it. Without 80A filter even in RAW you loose a lot of color information, washed and shifted colors if balance back to 5600 white point.

With the option to shoot in 4:3 mode, I would take advantage of it at all times. As you don't lose any resolution when shooting anamorphic, and less post work. But anytime you shoot 16:9, you WILL have to crop in and WILL lose horizontal resolution. Unless you want to specifically retain the super wide 3.55 aspect ratio when shooting in 16:9 mode with a 2x. That's just my opinion, enjoy shooting anamorphic!

Idk, cameras aren't supposed to look good at 3200 ISO, that's why they make lights. I was getting clean results up to 1600 ISO, which was a first for me with any camera I have owned, but I still never used it... I'd light for native ISO in c-log... but everyone's different with different needs.
And I don't know what kind of camera budget you have but I can't afford a camera that loses about 40% of its value less than two months after I bought it.

Hi, can you share the method to change the dcp profile to another camera ? I'd love to make one for my X-T1

justinbacle.com/temp/DSCF8515.RAF
Here you go for the X-T1

No worries mate  we all had to go through this  Keep the anamorphics alive! Cheers!

..and I was wondering if JVC ever sold more than 200 cameras!
You all know that I believe LS300 is in the right direction and best value for money. I just used it a few hours ago, for this documentary series I work, but a mkII can fix (or improve) on some issues, that can make this camera, truly the best value for money video camera on the market.
I am expecting an LS300 by Panasonic too.
Nikon is going DOWN..
Very good reading of the charts @IronFilm , missed those two!

Hey Adam and welcome to the club
I think that first, you have to understand your sensor. GH4 has a 4 by 3 sensor, that's why it is a micro four thirds. When filming in 16:9, you got a 16:9 crop image from the 4:3 sensor. When filming in 4:3 anamorphic mode, your GH4 uses the whole sensor.
Also, shooting on 16:9 with 2x anamorphics gives you 3.55:1, very wide aspect ratio, see the attached dog.
Shooting on 4:3 gives you 2.66:1 aspect ratio, see the attached drumset.
There are no rules, you have to know what you're aiming for. Shooting with the GH4 on 4:3 has it's own advantages and if 2.66:1 is still too wide, you can crop in to 2.39:1 cinema standard aspec ratio. Due 4K you won't loose resolution if exporting to 1080p.

Hi and welcome here
Here are a couple of remarks (after viewing it twice) : 
- It is quite long, i think you don't need 2 min but less than 1, try to keep it concise.
- Begin by the stuff which has more chance keeping attention. I think the car sequence or nature sequences have a better overall look than the narrative stuff you put at the beginning. Just my two cents.
- Make a nice overlay and a bit smaller. The text you put is quite big but isn't that visible still. A nice but small animated overlay with a two-word description of the shot you are seeing (like Project Name & Date) would be a better solution IMO.
Here is the good stuff now : 
- The car sequences look good, so does the mountain sequence and snow sequences
Here is the stuff I don't know what to think about :
- The music 
(As I don't know what to say, no details here :o)
Nice to see an F3 user here ! Did you get it used recently ? I'd love to get my hands on one

Hi and welcome here
Here are a couple of remarks (after viewing it twice) : 
- It is quite long, i think you don't need 2 min but less than 1, try to keep it concise.
- Begin by the stuff which has more chance keeping attention. I think the car sequence or nature sequences have a better overall look than the narrative stuff you put at the beginning. Just my two cents.
- Make a nice overlay and a bit smaller. The text you put is quite big but isn't that visible still. A nice but small animated overlay with a two-word description of the shot you are seeing (like Project Name & Date) would be a better solution IMO.
Here is the good stuff now : 
- The car sequences look good, so does the mountain sequence and snow sequences
Here is the stuff I don't know what to think about :
- The music 
(As I don't know what to say, no details here :o)
Nice to see an F3 user here ! Did you get it used recently ? I'd love to get my hands on one

I cannot agree more
I have a bunch of these lenses and most of them are great ! Just too bad they can't be adapted to Canon EOS mount. I'll can't stop using them on µ4/3 w/ and w/o a speedbooster

well, that is very impressive !
I think I'll try and do something similar with mine

I would say keep you 7s as it is a very good camera, and get a cheap 5dmk2 for raw ? Is the 5dmk2 enough for your raw needs ?

I would say keep you 7s as it is a very good camera, and get a cheap 5dmk2 for raw ? Is the 5dmk2 enough for your raw needs ?

Definitely something I will look further into if the budget allows me to. On the other hand, I see the potential of the mk3 to become a full time production horse, with the  1920x1280 (anamorphic), 3200 ISO and slow motion functions that I (am still struggling with this) can live with

Do you have the processing power and storage capacity to edit Raw?? And to give up doing 4K to boot. Not counting a softer 1080p output. Hmmm, interesting.
Not knocking the Canon, I am looking at a C100 soon to buy myself speaking of 1080p output. I agree with maybe doing the MKII and keeping the A7s. Easy to spend your money though. 

The jvc ls300 has a s35 sensor yet has a m4/3 mount so it should be possible but that doesn't matter as it is not the case with the gh5.

You will lose motion blur by shooting at a higher frame rate. Shooting at 24p gives a shutter speed of 1/48 (if you're using the 180 rule, which I assume you are), which gives the level of motion blur we subliminally associate with cinema. If you shoot, say at 60p, you'd be using a higher shutter speed by necessity, so the motion blur would be affected.

Cool.

just find a very nice 0.5m angle HDMI cable as add-on to my angle adapter kit. This makes things even more compact and more secure. Now i can put camera to the bag without risk of damage cable or HDMI connector.
Recommend it! http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HDMI-CABLE-V1-4-1080P-GOLD-PLATED-CONNECTOR-BLURAY-3D-TV-DVD-PS3-HDTV-XBOX-/272486622073?var=&hash=item3f7177e379:m:m823GMKeVGgsQcKw_9aBzdQ

Yes. Can be reworked, but cons yet double focus... On man made mechanic single focus for this lens
https://www.facebook.com/anamorphicru-310006809400799/
As an alternative, it is an interesting variant. Some automation on post for right proportions, when change focus, breathing, one special taking lens, but quite cheap compared to other solutions. And there is no additional optics, which makes its own distortion.
My thread about this ana here
 

a camera obscura with a sensor at the back and a SD card at the side. 

That is why LS300 and GH4 are relevant and good value options. 

Hello Friends, I got this lens and it has nothing written, no serial, nothing that can indicate the origin and manufacturer.
The size seems to be 8mm, if someone has seen something like this thank you for any help, the back thread has 37mm, has already come with this clamp, the front outside has 50mm and the length is 10cm, it has no focus system only one Screw that locks the back and allows to slightly externder the body.
I tested here holding it in hand, She does not vignette over 80mm, and the scale is between 1.5 and 2x, I need to do better test and confirm.
I appreciate any help,

Cool info thanks. The most interesting thing I've shot and posted on YouTube has had about 60 views in the past 20 months, when do you think I can expect a comfotable income?