SR

Honestly - I never thought the NX1 hack would get this far!

I can remember long ago, when we were all but children playing in the garden, back when Kidzrevil first posted this challenge....

At the rate some of the folks here are carving deeper into the guts, I wouldn't be all that surprised if one day someone DID find a way to get a RAW video feed out of these kittens of ours.

In the meantime it sure seems to be a resounding success even just in it's first couple of months, with the increased bit-rates cleaning up some of the problem areas in just the way I expected it would. Kudos to all involved.

Now if only Otto or someone else could write a sub-script that would prevent me from pointing my NX1 at bad subject material...

There's only so much one can be critical of Canon, really. It's like screaming at a wall. Also, back in the nebulous days of DSLR filmmaking, it was exciting to see higher video quality from small packages like GH2 and later Magic Lantern Canon. I guess we sort of have gotten used to it. Nowadays, even if Canon doesn't deliver, Panasonic, Sony, Blackmagic, and even Samsung have already jumped in to fill that void. It's come far from the GH2 days.

I only hope the Samsung hack receives similar coverage from bloggers. It could be a big push to have that sort of coverage and enthusiasm that EOSHD did for the early HDSLR cameras.

I quite enjoyed that. You capture mood very well.

Ignore Dbounce. He reminds me of those guys who feel the divine need to educate everyone, like those commenting on classical piano videos on Youtube screaming, "That's not how the composer intended it to be played!!!!!" 

Can I ask, how big are the 3:1 compressed raw files? Your video has me seriously considering the Micro.

I'm exited to hear qualifications needed to be a music video. And the other thing was so obvious that I just left it out.
Your criticism is boring. 

Nice one - hopefully, your issue will be resolved.
My fe 28mm F2 arrives in a few hours, so I shall try again with a much less front heavy set-up that I had with the fe 16-35 F4
I am also hearing that the slow drifting to the left can correct itself when the unit is switched on and off a few times - but only if balanced to near perfection.
Also got a better height plate solution by taking the sliding quick release plate off an old sled type steadicam that I had to ditch because of defective bearings.

So the seller, Owldolly, has concluded the problem with my DS1 after I showed them a video of the problem:
They have been actually quite great about it so far, prompt in replying, even extending the return policy, too. Fingers crossed that it'll work with the new parts.

I'm very happy with my set up but if a person was starting out from scratch with semi pro / serious indie amateur aspirations on a tight budget then I'd also suggest keeping an eye out for these products:
 
Tascam DR70D  (only US$200 on sale I've seen it for!! :-o I've used it myself as the soundie on an indie feature film)
Aputure D3 (announced at this year's NAB, meant to be as good as a Sennheiser MKH-416, but heaps cheaper).
Saramonic UwMic10  (looks like the Sony! Has 2x TX to 1x RX feature).

Years and years ago started out with a Zoom H1. Then got a Tascam DR60D. Have a Rode VideoMic Pro.
 
Now use a Sound Devices 552 with a Petrol mixing bag I found cheap.
Will get a Tascam DR680 soon to pair with it (but want an F8!! But they're too pricey).
Have a Rode NTG2 and have a Sennheiser ME66/K6 on its way.
Have a RodeLink and 3x Samson Wireless kits.
Have a 3m carbon fibre boom pole.
Rode Blimp v2.
Various XLR cables and other accessories. Plus a bunch of less important mics.

Amazing value in a hyper mic - AT4053b. Yes, it's $600 new, but it's the last mic I'll buy other than specialty needs. It's just simply luscious. Sparkly highs, as much bass as you'd desire for voices, a really great, silky, crisp and "present" sound. Sounds great in a blimp, too (though i often remove the front cell if possible). if you ever see one used for a good deal, don't think twice. Evey time I mix interviews I think "holy crap this sounds great".
OST lavs are pretty spectacular values as well. I got a side-address (801?) which has a high-end bump and use it for hiding mics. Works great in the point of a shirt collar. All three of his mics are pretty highly regarded.
Favorite purchase of 2016? XLR barrel-style adapter that fits my lavs (sennhesier screw-on mini) and converts phantom power to mic power, and converts the mic signal to a balanced signal for a standard XLR cable. Makes it easy to use a lav when you don't actually need wireless but need a lav. Also make me use the lav more often, even when I have a mic on a stand, just to have a 2nd source to play with.

I recently upgraded my H4n to an H5 (same preamps as the H6). Excellent performer. Menus are perfectly intuitive to me, but maybe that's just my familiarity with the brand. 
Also just picked up a Senheiser MKE600. Very comparable sound to the NTG-3 imo, but a lot less expensive and with the option to run off battery power to a 3.5mm jack as well as P48 XLR.

I have a used AT4073a I'll sell cheap. Personally I prefer my 416 and don't find the AT to be less "unforgiving" but it's super good for the money, in the same league just very directional and hot (also can be a good thing). It's so hot it can help with bad preamps, too.
Look into the F8. That seems to be where it's at if you can't afford SD/Zaxcom. I wouldn't consider anything else at that price point.

I went through the same exercise in 2015. I wound up investing in the following and I've been happy. 
Tascam 701D
2 Tascam DR-10C, only available outside the US for now. I leverage my Sennheiser G3 system and mics with this setup but Aspen or OST mics would work great too. Pairing two of these with a G3 system can create a super compact audio system with massive recording redundancy that you can monitor and even feed into a camera.
Used AT4053b and AT4073a mics. You have to be patient to find these used. Took me 6 months.
For the amateur stuff I do I've been pleased with this gear. For pure quality I'd look at a used MixPre, I had one of these and sold it, I regret that. But I find the Tascam 701D super easy to use once you get it set up right and it's super bag friendly and camera friendly.

To keep color channels from clipping. You don't want to lower it all the way; 1 or 2 points will do.

Latest versions since 1.47 of KS-pack are not only faster with gui, it also seems to be faster with sd-cards due some optimizations in scripts. I can say that with first 1-2-3 versions of vasiles bitrate hack I can reach 140-180 mbps (depends on the card) and with latest versions of NX-KS I can use 190-260 mbps with pretty much the same cards.

But I really, really recommeng to read all info about this on dpr or github since guys mostly conversate there. it's not about that you can't use the hack without reading, of course not, you can, but there is known issues that not only mentioned but resolved in this threads, and there is unresolved ones, which good to be aware of. But in most cases all NX-KS works very good, bitrates, focus options, overall stability - is fine now
I can manage to use automatic focus pull with MF-switched lense during the video record with 120 mbps bitrate via Otto's script in NX-KS pack, which is VERY cool option. Same thing via telnet works faster for now, but with new optimisations I think there is a good chance to reach very-very good stability and speed in this. It looks just incredible, you know.

Ursa would be a no-go for me, given its high frequency of negative reviews from users. So it'll have to be Red. But if it were really up to me, I'd wait a month for the Kinefinity Terra.

(1) and (2): Some explanations.
Scripts are stored on the SD card. SD cards are optimized for sustained writes and generally slower than internal emmc flash, especially for mixed read/writes. When you start to mix script reads and video writes you are confusing the sdcard (internal) flash memory controller and since the card is optimized for large writes it will behave badly for short reads like those of scripts. Especially when these are comparatively rare in between long sustained writes. The ARM core running Tizen and the user interface is single threaded and not very fast (the fast ones are running the non-Tizen T-Kernel operating the camera hardware). You WILL see slowness because the UI has to wait for the keyscan to finish which in turn waits for the scripts to finish which in turn get read from a (comparatively) slow card the SD before it (the UI) can continue with whatever it was doing. the scripts heavily use the Linux shell, launching it every single time a script is launched (and remember for us scripts are launching other scripts - nested scripts). Bottom line, there are several things someone will need to do before you will get better performance:
RUN, don't walk, from storing any script/mod/hack on SD card. This is the single greatest reason for slowness, and to make things worse, it is highly dependent on card model (and more expensive cards will not necessarily make things better because it may happen that high end cards will work less well for small reads than cheaper "non-optimized for writes" cards. Otto is doing something about this but AFAIK it is still experimental although not rocket science. But you will also have to overcome your fear of storing mods internally. After all, once you did the BT mod, you basically did 95% of what is required anyway and successfully passed the "dangerous" phase of changing camera rootfs. I do think that we need to improve that mod to enable mod bypass during boot just in case something goes wrong with any of the internal mods, and that we need to have a "mod witness" permanently on the screen to show that mods are enabled, but this is minor. Eliminate multiple scripts from "production" mods. Scripts are fantastic for getting functionality in your hands and to allow fast test turnaround and mod interface evolution but ultimately there needs to be a consolidated mod that sits in ONE binary. This is, by the way, I think, one of the reasons for the fat di-camera-app that runs the entire camera UI. Script support needs to stay (both card and internal) but over time, all mods should aspire to be part of a main mod binary. Ideally, a mod should go through multiple stages: SD card based while it is evaluated and goes through fast changes and updates and while we are NOT CERTAIN that it will not damage the camera internal when determined as safe for camera and changes are not so frequent once stable and generally accepted, optimize and integrate as binary (non-shell script) in a main executable mod for fastest speed. There you go.
Also, from what I can see in the firmware, it seems that the data flow in the camera goes: Sensor => DRIME (that is operated by T-Kernel) => Tizen kernel => write on card. The reason Tizen and not T-Kernel writes on card is that you cannot have multiple operating systems write on the card at the same time. This means that if we bloat memory use on Tizen, its capacity to maintain sustained writes is lowered compared to what it might achieve with more free RAM. In turn, this means: avoid shell scripts or heavy programs (like my gdb bitrate mod version).
This, IMO, is also the reason the "poker" method allows faster performance than the "gdb" method. It is also the reason I am working towards an even better method than "poker" which will consolidate the "memory change" mods in one binary without the need to stop the di-camera-app multiple times (which is very time consuming for the CPU).
Finally: Would anyone mind starting something like a gofundme campaign for a NX500. Mine needs a replacement power button (I kind of abused mine I guess) and I am reluctant to keep working on it after I get it repaired.
It is too bad because with time, based on what I see in the camera, and if there was a developer community built around it, the hardware could achieve wonders. And to be clear, Otto, Kino Seed, Chant, and me do not "community" make IMO, like for example Magic Lantern. If you guys want anything close to ML you will need to do a lot more about spreading the word and competing for developers time/recruiting new ones.
Regards
Vasile

Yup, Ive thought about that before as well.
A lot of people get excited by the "new Sonys with even more specs", but they sometimes seem to miss the fact that the price went up as well.
So the "bang for buck" argument actually gets weaker with every new model. Same thing in the RX100 line. They haven't "added more", just raised the price accordingly.
Imo Panasonic is the mirrorless company that keeps cost down by releasing the G-model of their GH-cameras.

Sr, not sure about those results. Seems like the benchmark is somewhat flawed, since I get about 4x performance with a lexar 2000x compared to a samsung pro (when buffer full...5-6fps vs 1-1.5fps).

Sure. 18650 batteries are ones that are mostly popular for driving the more powerful CREE LED flashlights. https://www.fasttech.com/category/1420/batteries is a reputable seller, avoid things with 'Fire' in the brand's name (good chance they're rubbish and dangerous (like... catching fire)). Panasonic, Samsung and LG would be good bets. I like SoShine ones. Get ones with PCB (Protective Circuit Board). Avoid mixing different brands/models.
If you really want to delve into it... here are some further links:
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650Summary%20UK.html ( and I'd recommend to get a 2- or 4-bay intellicharger with it from either Nitecore, Sysmax or Jetbeam; http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/indexBatteriesAndChargers%20UK.html ) http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?9-Flashlight-Electronics-Batteries-Included http://budgetlightforum.com/forum/batteries/rechargeable

The D3 sounds promising. Something I might actually add to my setup as a backup (or even as a main mic).

I think calling Aputure the Blackmagic of lighting is an insult to Aputure... as Aputure actually deliver working products within a timely fashion;-)
That said,  I own the LS1-c's and can confirm that they DO NOT exhibit any of the patterning that most bi-color lights do. I attribute this to the unique honeycomb arrangement of the leds. Put simply, the LS1-c's rocks! 

We use the LS-1S, LS-1/2 (97 CRI), 528W, 528S, and H198, in daylight color. They all work great, especially for skin tones (better than our more expensive Dracast LEDs, which are only used for bounce/back fill now). Look forward to seeing the variable spot/Fresnels from Aputure (we use a Fiilex P360EX- very nice but not variable beam angle or very bright (can swap in/out the plastic Fresnel insert).

I recently did a shoot with a rented RED Epic Dragon. The package came with 5 V-Lock batteries and a dual charger. When we shot indoors, we simply kept 2 batteries on the charger at all times and swapped out as needed. At our outdoor locations, we made sure everything was charged beforehand and powered through the day, or had our DIT holed up at a coffee shop with a power strip and the charger and ran a PA over every now and then to grab the charged bricks.

I assume you'd use a similar style with the Terra, except that you could probably get by with 3 and change out less often due to the lower power draw. 

Thank you :D

I use mostly the Samyang 14mm f2.8 and 24mm f1.4, however, I recently sold everything and am now rocking a Sigma 18-35mm f1.8.
Thanks :D 

I editted in premiere and then exported to AE for the transitions, I still havent found any plugin that makes this automatically, so I do it manually (scale/rotation/etc) and then I add blur to make it smooth.

Really nicely put together. Can I ask, how do you achieve such transitions?