Juxx989

Premiere Pro doesn't have the built-in color tools necessary for working in a log space.  That's something I might be able to correct in the future.  I know a lot of people use Premiere.

I'm tired of hearing about how Metabones Holy Grail adapter. I've had it with Sony A7s, I sold both for continuous camera crash, slow autofocus and always not accurate autofocus.
These are the technical problems of Metabones listed on the official website:
"Limitations:
Autofocus
Continuous AF and video AF are not supported. (Performance may be unsatisfactory.)
AF may not work if the maximum aperture of the lens plus any EF Extender or other teleconverter attached is smaller than f/8.
The first two autofocus attempts are used to calibrate the lens and as a result may not lock successfully on the target. Half-press the shutter release button again and autofocus will lock successfully.
Autofocus may have difficultly locking onto subjects which are very close to the nearest focusing distance of the lens.
Autofocus accuracy depends heavily on the design and working condition of the lens. Lenses with hidden problems which may not be apparent on Canon DSLRs will lead to inaccurate and unreliable autofocus on Sony NEX. Typical problems of this kind that we have seen include an unsmooth/erratic autofocus mechanism (e.g. getting stuck intermittently at a certain focusing distance), a faulty/worn-out distance encoder or other faulty/worn-out internal sensors.
Other
No support for lens corrections such as peripheral shading, CA and distortion.
The EF-mount lens may make audible noises during iris changes and autofocus, wich may be picked up by the built-in microphone of the camera during video recording. Use of an external microphone is advised.
Early Tamron VC lenses such as the AF 28-300/3.5-6.3 XR Di VC LD Aspherical [IF] Macro (model A20), AF 18-270/3.5-6.3 Di II VC LD Aspherical [IF] MACRO (model B003), SP AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di II VC LD Aspherical [IF] (model B005) may not be able to freely switch between OIS and IBIS because they may not report IS activity status. Later Tamron VC lenses equipped with USD or PZD focus motors are fine.
Some aftermarket battery grips may cause the aperture to change erraneously. This is a bug of the aftermarket battery grip but NOT arising from the Metabones Smart Adapter. Turn off the aftermarket battery grip or use a genuine Sony battery grip."
The adapter I have in mind, it works perfectly with all lenses, regardless of the protocol used.
It turns every lens in a lens autofocus, including Samyang lenses, Cine, M42, Nikon and over all in autofocus lenses.
It works perfectly even in video mode, where Metabones can not do!
Besides the AF it IS Canon Stabilizer (OIS it's Samsung) and Aperture Control.
Finally the lens donor is not cannibalized but remains convertible to return to Samsung original state.
I paid 100 euro a 30mm f.2 now costs more than 300 EUR!
If you think that spending 400/500 euro for an adapter kit like this is too much, I think you did not know the counts.
Make an order of 1,000 pieces and I can build it for half the price.
You can also buy Nikon camera EUR 500, but if it mounts a lens of 100 EUR you have not solved anything!
 

If you want AF S lenses, you must use S lenses, please do not insist on this point. The adapter has an independent motor so if you want to see its performance, inform you about the features of the Samsung 30mm f2 lens.
The Canon Stabilizer works with power of Pin, I can connect a micro Arduino to control the iris.
I think there is deep enough to mount Canon EF lenses, the gearbox is 9mm thick, this is close to the Canon pin and could be an obstacle but I am optimistic.
It is not very difficult to disassemble and replace the lens with an instruction manual, but it is possible to commission the work to any repairer of electronic equipment.

Yes, you can clone the motherboard, but this requires the construction of many units and would also make it also necessary to build the electric motor and the gear housing.
The original motherboard is a single hardware component, consisting of table, engine, gearbox and sensors that operate the MF when turning the focus ring.

This adapter would be very fast to found the focus, as the original Samsung lens because the camera would work with a 100% Samsung hardware.
The good news is that the conversion would be reversible, the original parts would remain operational if reassembled like the original lens.
This becomes a better investment, because it does not sacrifice the original samsung lens.

When I started to think about building a smart autofocus adapter, I asked you if you preferred the Techart Pro adapter or Aputure Dec AF.
Almost all of you have responded Techart Pro, and in fact, to have an autofocus system that works with all lenses that's cool!
So I started to think what could be a fast way to have it in the real world and not in the world of dreams ..
The 30mm f2 pancake is long 21.5mm (half a millimeter longer of adapter Nikon/NX), it has no buttons OIS, Zoom or another, it's just a fixed lens which has two functions:
1) Autofocus
2) Iris.
These characteristics make it the perfect candidate to become an AF adapter.
First I ceck the range of focus, it is 6mm (Techart Pro it's only 4,5mm).

 
After I disassembled the rear flange, I raised the board and looked inside, the electric motor is positioned laterally and all the gears rotate the rear part of the ferrule, the main gear is located in the rear part of the lens, and this is good, why not cluttered and provides more space for mounting the front lens.


Inside there is the motor for the opening of the iris and is parallel to the support cylinder for glasses.
In general, having taken the measurements, I can state that it is possible to convert the lens in a 30mm AF adapter.
if there is enough space, you can install the pin Canon EF mount on the front of the commands to activate Stabilizer and Aperture Iris with micro Arduino.

Up to here I made simple but to obtain an AF adapter is necessary to construct a new outer ring of aluminum with two or three linear bearings to support the weight of the new lenses, build a new internal support in aluminum with front flange of the lens assembly and perhaps replace some plastic with new gears in aluminum gear.
The width of engagement Nikon is ok, but the width of the Canon is greater, then I have to redesign the whole body.
Such a change could cost about 400 euro, this could be a bargain for those with a 30mm, but considering the prices soared Samsung lenses may exceed 650 euro for a complete adapter.
Having a third-party adapter with AF lenses is possible.
This is only one of the possibilities, I have other ideas and solutions to build AF adapter.
I wrote this post to know from you what you think.
 

Many Moons ago I used to edit commercials at a local news station I love post production but I never learned how to shoot. 
Ive been teaching myself  to shoot with my NX-1 but I cant believe this little $125 BMPCC is making me rethink. Ive never touched a Blackmagic Camera before.
Maybe I should sell my NX-1 and 6 lenses (including both "S"Lens 30mm, 16mm, 45mm 12mm) Get a Metabones bmpcc EF adapter find some EF lenses over the next couple of months (18-35 1.8  70-200, 50mm) and shoot for a URSA Mini down the line... 
BMPCC Its a bit of a pain to shoot with but when you get those buttery prores and raw files into resolve they are truly FUN to work with...
if I do sell my NX stuff I can sell my resolve dongle because I don't need it without h265 and I would prob get one free with a URSA mini purchase down the road... 
Ill meditate on it for a month or so.
Thanks for the kind words man
 
 

Yeah Black Magic stuff can be habit forming! Best bang for the buck. But I do wish they would come out with Version 2 on all of them and solve the quirks on them. I mean no camera is flawless, but BM is new to the game, came up with some crazy cheap stuff, with no way to really fix the warts on them. Time to get quality in the bodies also, and in some cases better form factor. BMCC comes to mind.

Many Moons ago I used to edit commercials at a local news station I love post production but I never learned how to shoot. 
Ive been teaching myself  to shoot with my NX-1 but I cant believe this little $125 BMPCC is making me rethink. Ive never touched a Blackmagic Camera before.
Maybe I should sell my NX-1 and 6 lenses (including both "S"Lens 30mm, 16mm, 45mm 12mm) Get a Metabones bmpcc EF adapter find some EF lenses over the next couple of months (18-35 1.8  70-200, 50mm) and shoot for a URSA Mini down the line... 
BMPCC Its a bit of a pain to shoot with but when you get those buttery prores and raw files into resolve they are truly FUN to work with...
if I do sell my NX stuff I can sell my resolve dongle because I don't need it without h265 and I would prob get one free with a URSA mini purchase down the road... 
Ill meditate on it for a month or so.
Thanks for the kind words man
 
 

You've also demonstrated that in the right hands, one does not need a lot of expensive equipment to get good-looking results. Well done demonstration.

Buy one BMPCC in good condition, there are some already rigged and the image is beauty.

Resolve with the Dongle I have found is very smooth with NX1 footage.

I agree about the Aputure solution. As I wrote in older posts, this solution does not solve my issues as well. What I'd need is a real AF (autofocus) for Canon lenses, so that I can use it for the longer tele lenses (missing for NX). Any other solution will be, for me, useless.
 
I'm still confident that Luca can do the "real thing", sooner or later i.e.: an adapter converting the samsung protocol to Canon, and drive Canon lenses as if they were native NX ones. I'm only "afraid" that the required time and cost for this item are too high (making it more convenient to buy a "cheap" canikon body to use just for those lenses). I hope that the (very kind) 10k offer from ttbek could make the price more convenient for future buyers of the intelligent adapter if/when it comes.

Hey IKSLIM, had I needed to buy a new one for this update I probably would have sold you one, but Luca's kind offer is keeping both with me for now.  Upon closer inspection the  Apurture design version doesn't have the contacts I need camera side, so unfortunately you're out of luck unless I end up acquiring a 3rd one. 

I have been working with a digital logic analyzer and an Arduino nano.  Via this setup I can set the aperture and move the focus to min and max so far.  So the setup is
For gathering data: Canon Camera + EF extension tube with AF contacts + lens, I have wired the extension tube to sample the data via a USB digital logic anlyzer. 
For testing my control: Arduino Nano + EF extension tube with AF contacts + lens (no body for now).  So the aperture and focus max and min are working as controlled by the nano. 
Next step: NX camera + NX extension tube with AF contacts + Arduino Nano  and use the digital logic analyzer to find the focus commands from the camera, also spoof the lens data.  Here is where ihkim's work will be a big help with the lens initialisation, to hopefully successfully spoof the lens in a way the camera accepts. 
Final case: NX camera signal to contacts on close end EF -> NX adapter, these wired to the nano, then from the nano to the contacts on the other side of the adapter, then to the lens.  Then replace the adapter with wired NX-L for focal reduction. 
Stabilization seems to work automatically for the lenses I've tried, but I think the EF-M mount lenses don't have physical switches, but these are not among the lenses we're adapting. 
My 10k offer still stands for anyone that can provide native-like camera driven AF.  The Apurture DEC does not do this, as I understand it doesn't listen to the camera half at all, in which case I'm only a few buttons away from doing the same with the nano (add button to repeat change focus command one way, another the other way, same for aperture).  Wifi would be a bunch of work though, but while nice it isn't on my own wish list.  The nano will allow more programmatic control, 2,3,4, etc... focus locations could be toggled, it's mostly a matter of adding physical inputs and writing logic into the nano code to handle them.  As I look back to your image of the upcoming system, the contacts are going to go just from the Apurture to the lens, I also need to get to the camera contacts somehow.  What I need is camera -> Apurture and Apurture -> lens (but with my nano instead of the Apurture).  With the current NX-L design I'm not sure how to get at the camera contacts, running wires even with a hole drilled through isn't great because of the rotating design, so they can be stressed or break if it rotates too far.  Solutions that come to mind would complicate the design quite a bit further (e.g. concentric rings for each contact on that part that rotates). 
That would be great, can you PM me the address, I didn't keep the packaging they arrived in so I lost the return address. 

Nice setup.  Looks like a good commercial spot.  Thanks for sharing.

Man, thats like the perfect bargain.. I am jealous.

Was messing around trying out the pocket cam I just scored for cheap because it has dead pixels... if you look closely its in there...
Had to shoot on ProRez LT because I only have one small memory card.
Used a Cheapo Adapter and a Canon FD 24mm 2.8 & Canon FD 50mm 3.5 macro  
I have no lights so I took 99 cents store flashlights, a empty box, some foil and wax paper to make a soft box.
Man think I like the BMPCC Im thinking about rigging it out... but its hard to blow more money on a $125 cam thats  ultimately faulty...
Plus it seems I need to at least get a 3 point light set.

The JVC gy ls300 is a very capable cinema camera and still has the potential to reach in capable filmmakers hands. Check this out! It was filmed entirely with the ls300 
 

Download OBS free software here: https://obsproject.com/
 

Man that is a great great deal you got there

Isn't the BMCC referred to as a Mini Alexa? They are so cheap on the used market right now, it may be worth looking into one of those instead of trying to get the GH4 to look like an Alexa.

That's quite a provocative question, but I like the way you think! Theoretically, it should be possible to get the GH4 to more closely match the Alexa. This is what I would do.
1. Shoot in 10bit V-Log to an external recorder
2. Use LutCalc to generate a VLog to Alexa LUT, to get the Panasonic gamma and gamut into the Alexa range
3. Shoot a colour chart with a GH4 and Alexa (this is the hard part) with the same exposure. Then bring both into Resolve. Apply the VLog to Alexa LUT to the GH4 shot and adjust the hue and saturation curves so that each square on the aligns with those in the Alexa shot, as seen on the vectorscope.
Using this kind of method I've got my XC10 to match my 5D3 MLRAW almost perfectly, both shooting a colour calibrated version of C-Log. That's not entirely dissimilar from what you're talking about. OK, they're both Canons but actually the colours coming from each of them were actually quite different.
Maybe you can find a shot of a chart shot on an Alexa somewhere and exactly replicate the exposure and lighting on your GH4. Good luck and don't forget to post your results when you succeed!

Unless you want to frankestien the hell out of it and rewire the bmpcc's encoder and recording circuitery and magically get the cpu to still communicate with the encoder to control it .... NO

Here's a wedding I just finished earlier this week, shot entirely on the NX1 with hacked bitrate, with the NX-L Speedbooster, mostly on Rokinon 85 and 50mm cine lenses, except the gimbal shots which are on the NX500 and Rokinon 12mm.

And here's a fun, kind of artsy little piece I helped a buddy with for a university project a month or two ago, it's also with bitrate-hacked NX1, NX-L, 85mm, and one or two shots on the 12mm and a 35mm Zeiss Jena (the macro-ish stuff at the beginning). But T1.5 with the speedbooster lets in a LOT of light, I still had to have ND for almost the entire video to keep my 180 degree shutter, even in such low-light conditions, ISO 100, pretty cool!
 
EDIT: I forgot to mention that the first video is graded entirely with Neumann film's cinema LUT, while the second one uses Ricardo's Vellichor LUTs, albeit heavily pushed.

Look here, it's the best to professional software and hardware with h265 codec and more: http://www.cinemartin.com/