PannySVHS

I have the pancake zoom 12-32, for the money pretty hard to beat, and to top it off it has OIS in it. But it has no focus ring. It can be collapsed if you want it to.

Thanks! It's a lut I made that emulates Portra 400 film as scanned on a minilab scanner (which I've posted about here before). Since negative film has quite a lot of stops above middle grey and only a few under, the highlights are relatively low contrast compared to the shadows.

I was going to say exactly this. It's subtle, but the GH6 looks softer. Great grade btw. Similar to the GHAlex workflow with the nice highlight rolloff.
 
FWIW his sample footage of the GH6 vs Alexa were indistinguishable to me. Like you, he's still doing some tests but so far he told me this is his favorite camera ever by far. 

I'm very disappointed in the update from an anamorphic options viewpoint.  One, they refuse to give us the 3.3K 4:3 option in ALL-I (or lower resolution), and none of the anamorphic options are available in ProRes or ProRes HQ.  I like my anamorphic footage to have some grit to it.  The 3.3K handled that well as it was closer to film resolution.  Now it has that pristine anamorphic look I really don't like.  The fact that they put anamorphic options in Long GOP still baffles me when they had it perfect on the GH5.

Lol! In all fairness and after looking closely at the above, the GH6 does seem to have slightly finer detail and a slightly softer and more natural look when viewing at 100% in 4K. But it's subtle!
I guess with GH5 V-Log a lot of people might have left the NR and sharpness settings at their default settings instead of turning them down to the minimum and this may have contributed to the idea that the GH5 is overprocessed.
@deezid might chime in with his experiences as I think he now has a GH6

Hmm, love the image and the colours coming out of this thing. Good battery life, no overheating, full hdmi and with 15ms or sub 15ms rolling shutter, this could be an appealing camera to me. This footage below is my favorite so far from all the new bunch, including Z9, GH6, XH2s, R5, which I´ve seen on youtube. Looks like a BMMCC or BMPCC on roids. 🙂
 

Heck, great image, this guy got out of his GX85! Great montage and camerawork as well. He shot with the native 25mm 1.7 and the pancake zoom 12-32. I heard good things about both lenses.
 
 

I don't like it either! Especially when doing long interviews 😞
I definitely thought I noticed a difference between the GH5 and S series cameras. But, forgetting about noise, high ISO performance and recovering from bad exposure and concentrating only on the "organic" versus "artificial" continuum I don't see a difference between the GH5 and GH6 set at the same exposure when examining single frame. Here are some examples. Both cameras are ISO 400 V-Log and have been colour and exposure matched. GH5 is first, then GH6 in each pair:
 

 


That's what I mean about the image being essentially identical for my purposes. Maybe the detail is slightly finer and less coarse in the GH6??
Of course, this comparison ignores temporal characteristics (maybe the noise pattern is nicer on the GH6?) as well as the extra dynamic range in DR boost which will differentiate it from the GH5, as well as the VLog colour being a nicer starting point on the GH6 if you're just going to use Panasonic's luts.
That is a very good point!

Pansonic should bring out a GX Ten with 10bit. A true 10bit pocket cam in a GX85 body with decent battery life and IBIS. Please give it an optional 1.4 crop for Super 16 lenses.

Pansonic should bring out a GX Ten with 10bit. A true 10bit pocket cam in a GX85 body with decent battery life and IBIS. Please give it an optional 1.4 crop for Super 16 lenses.

https://www.canonrumors.com/canon-to-finally-bring-a-successor-to-the-cinema-eos-c200/
Looks like there may be a C200 mk2 coming, sounds like a C300 mk3 with swappable EF and Rf mount.
Seems Canon are investing in apsc they just need some decent RF lenses to show they're fully committed as I agree the lens situation isn't great at the moment

Waveform is quite likely only for video function, for stills you probably have to activate the histogram if you want to see that.

THANKS wonderful friends

Thanks for that, rest well and I hope you feel better soon. 

I need more time to get a feel for it.
We've just moved back from NZ to Ireland and have been preoccupied with finding a place to live. I mainly shoot video for corporate work that I do, very little for family stuff or for pleasure/creativity. Since we've returned I've done one major job but I used the GH5 as I didn't want any curve balls that the GH6 might throw my way.
So I've really only pressed record on it a handful of times, doing a few tests. From the little I've shot with it, it seems like the battery life is really shit compared to the GH5 and a USB power source will be necessary. I don't use rigs, so I was thinking even just having one in the bag to charge up the last battery when it's been used. That might be enough to get me through a half day shoot.
DR boost gives you an extra stop in the highlights. That's it. So if you think of your average GH5 scene and where it clips, then DR boost will give you one stop more info, at the cost of using heavy NDs in most situations. I've got as far as a 5 stop Tiffen solid ND to stick under my SLR Magic Vari ND II, but am considering the Nisi True Colour to replace the SLR Magic as it probably has less colour cast (which is not so important to me) and possibly slightly less polarisation (which is the real ass kicker with vari NDs, I think).
I've satisfactorily matched the colour from the GH6 and GH5 in V-Log, and the image is thus practically identical for my purposes when not using DR boost. If you set the GH5 to minimum sharpness and noise reduction it's the same as the GH6 in terms of detail/sharpness/artificiality/organicness (except there may be differences in noise which I haven't examined in great detail), so the choice to use one or the other for me now comes down to functionality and ease of use.
I do miss the easy 2x digital zoom for HD like on the GH5 as discussed previously in this thread.
Having said all that, there are a few things that I really like a lot about the GH6:
- Red frame when recording. This is a lifesaver. I've often lost shots from having gotten into the wrong record/stop button pressing cycle
- Punch in while recording to check focus
- Luminance spot meter. This is not for everyone but it's amazingly useful for me as another exposure tool
- Usable AF using Panasonic lenses (anything I've checked on the Speedbooster is hopeless). Maybe once a year I need to do a static shoot of people walking down a corridor towards camera, chatting. The AF will do a better job than I can and give the 2 or 3 seconds of usable footage that I need.
- Confidence that I can shoot in low light if needed. Previously I've never needed more than 3200 ISO (most shots are on a Tamron 24-70 2.8, which is f1.8 on a Metabones XL) but that was a bit noisy on the GH5 and on the GH6 with DR boost it's much cleaner.
Ha ha! Here are some more negatives though:
- The build quality doesn't feel as good as the GH5.
- Some YouTuber was complaining about the silly mechanism on the memory card door and I agree with him. There was nothing wrong with the door on the GH5, but the GH6 is now finicky to open.
- The stupid light streaking thing which I have seen, when I deliberately tried to recreate it.
- The whole DR boost thing is voodoo. I've got noisy results in daylight using it, which worries me. I need more tests to suss this one out.
And finally, here are some mildly shocking things I've learned when comparing to the GH5:
- GH6 is slightly wider angle of view
- GH6 gives slightly darker image
- There is quite probably an overall colour cast imbalance. Almost certainly when using the same WB preset or when dialling in degrees Kelvin, and possibly also even when doing a custom WB on the same target. Need to test this more. It might just be the difference between my two units.
Honestly, if you have a GH5 there is no huge reason to upgrade unless you definitely need the higher resolution, codec or frame rate specs. The output is going to look pretty much the same. It's not like the jump from the GH4 to the GH5, which added 10 bit and made V-Log usable. More like the GH5 to the GH5 II - a better camera to use but your client/audience won't see anything diferent.

Pansonic should bring out a GX Ten with 10bit. A true 10bit pocket cam in a GX85 body with decent battery life and IBIS. Please give it an optional 1.4 crop for Super 16 lenses.

I didnt talk about the bird. I enjoyed seeing it though. 🙂 @kye

I didnt talk about the bird. I enjoyed seeing it though. 🙂 @kye

I can see why, that was pretty damn dope.

Speaking of the G7, I used one for a while and shot a bunch of stuff with it. Here's a little c-mount lens/FilmConvert test from 2017:
I still love the look of this.

I was surprised that it had enough exposure as I have told myself this is a "outdoors during the day" lens, but on closer inspection I think the ISO was working a bit on the images so it's not the best choice for post-sunset.
One thing that got me a couple of times on the previous shoot (with the GF3) was that putting it into my pocket seems to adjust the focus to the "closed" position and pulling the camera out of my pocket seems to adjust the focus to the 0.3m position, so that's a trap for new players.  Still, when I'm shooting MF with the GH5 focus is always a thing to adjust so I just have to keep that mindset that it's a manual lens and needs to have that attention too.
I am contemplating doing a sharpness test of various cameras and lenses and I think that this lens might actually be in the sweet spot of sharp but not too sharp.  I'm optimistic for that, plus the size is incredibly convenient.
Your analysis is terribly kind in ways that I probably don't deserve, but I'll take it - thanks!!
I like to think I have pretty good composition but to be honest I've been shooting for long enough that I don't really even think about it that much anymore, and my mental effort is more around anticipating what is about to happen.  For example, with the bird shot, I was thinking that:
the bird was chasing bugs and spent most of its time off-screen frame-right and down below the edge of the wall if I moved the camera to the right then that's where the sun was setting and the auto-exposure would be slow to react and would clip the sky, which isn't a good look on the GX85 (even in Cine-D) I don't know enough about bird behaviour to read it's body-language so I can't tell what it's doing, plus if it spots a bug then it all changes in an instant I could make a half-decent shot if it darted off frame-right by starting to follow it, stopping short of the clipping point of the camera, letting it leave frame, and then me lingering in an odd composition telling a little story of interaction and abandonment between the bird and the film-maker, but also giving me the opportunity to cut earlier than that and to just have a bird shot without the little drama Then I just went through the shots in VLC and found a good moment and did a screen grab, based mostly on instinct.
In terms of light - I'm reminded of that old saying in film photography - "F8 and be there" 🙂 
The lens isn't fixed focus, but it might as well be.  It's got a little focus slider on the front that closes a little lens cover, and has stops for infinity and 0.3m (12inches).  You can position it anywhere in-between, but you'd really be guessing...

Theoretically you could manually focus with it, using peaking or whatever, but the DoF is super deep so it would be difficult to really nail the right distance.  If you set it to 0.3m it certainly blurs the background though.  This is a shot from the GF3 video I filmed the previous day with the lens set at 0.3m:

It's got good flaring characteristics too (that's the sun in the background) but isn't so modern that it's clinical.
I shot a few test shots of RAW still images on the GF3 and at 12MP (4K) it was pixel sharp, so it's a pretty decent performer and priced very reasonably (I think) for what you get.
Yeah, I'd be inclined to summarise the shot more like "the shot of the bird flying around" rather than what @PannySVHS said!! 🙂 

Oh, I think the G7 was one of the best m4/3 cameras ever made, up there with the Olympus E-M1. Even though they are both older cameras now I think they still hold up in this day and age as way above cameras for what they cost, and output wise stellar. Overall, the G7 is better for both photos and video, but for photos the Oly E-M1 is amazing, I think it is even better than the MK II version output wise. More pure looking.
The G7 probably would not be my top pick for a Filmic, Cine look but for a person that wants a pick a cheap camera up and shoot for not much money it Really gets the job done with little to no hassle. Throw a 14-140mm kit lens on it and you are ready for nearly anything. Killer combo. It has amazing color science.

Very nice atmosphere and moody colors! Yeap, the FD 28mm 2.8 is one of my favorite lightweight wide lenses.

It will be available on youtube at saturday night around 20:30(UTC+8), I'll post a link to this thread then😉

I never got into the intuitive side of grading again as much as I did with the G6. It was a camera which only lacked one thing to me, a 100mbit codec without noise reduction. I have been saying this a dozen times on the forum, I know. 🙂 Still got my G6 laying on my desk, like a good spirit, though it gave up working. The 28 nFD is a gem of a lens, especially in lit scenarios but also outside. The G6 not haveng IBIS made me film very carefully. I might pick up my almost unused G7 and give it some run. Kinda exiting thought!