vaga

@amanieux brings up an interesting question: If the 2560*1440 is downsampled from the entire sensor, shouldn't it take less work for the proessor do downsample to 4k instead? In which case, full sensor 4k may be possible. Otherwise, if 2560*1440 is lineskipping, is there any moire? Is there a way to lineskip 4k on the entire sensor?

This file is taking me hours to download...can't wait to see it!

what lenses do you have?

I think vasile's idea of using the existing menu and then just overriding the bitrate values that Samsung has assigned to the options is probably the best option because it is the most integrated. Another potential option could be to add a menu option to pull up the keyboard and ask for a custom setting of resolution, frame rate, bitrate (and maybe anything else necessary like video profile). We should try to avoid out of place, unintegrated UI if possible. It just adds clutter. @vasile can you explain what tbn and tbc are? Also, can you check if there is a flag or something in the Dev menu that lets Samsung know if the video time limit has ever been disabled? (Assuming of course that you can uncheck the box in the menu).

Perhaps you can try decreasing the # of frames for the GOP? Curious how that and bitrate are separate. But that is a good thing (allows for more tweaking and flexibility with the codec). What is this "not a multiple of 8"? 4096, 2160 are multiples of 8, and so is 80mbps...

Dang I love those rigs! I feel like it looks comically big compared to the camera body. But that's a testament to the technology and optimization of the camera by Panasonic.

If you're using a gimbal, you have to use autofocus, right? There'd be no way to touch the camera without causing the gimbal to fritz from what I remember seeing last summer.

what does SSIF mean?

The only reason that adapter works on iPhone etc. is because iPhone have the headphone and mic jack convinced in one TRR(R)S headphone jack. If you look closely at your iPhone headphones, you'll see small pieces of plastic that separate segments of the connector. So the tip usually is ground, the rings carry the signal for left ear, right ear, and I think the button inputs, and the sleeve (the top segment) is mic. Or some permutation of that. Normal headphone jacks just don't have the mic or button part. Normal mic jacks just don't have the headphone part. So unless the camera is capable of outputting both through the input jack, that adapter won't do anything. But it is worth checking to see if the camera does take in mic input and output audio. You could try it with standard iPhone headphones.

Dude that's awesome! No way that it's that easy. So cool! What else is in the dev options?

Thanks for the samples. No DIS?

Hey @Otto K @Chant is there any reference to HDR video? That could be something that improves DR performance. Or perhaps we could create a hack for that. I'm interested in working on this with you guys. I know C++, Java, JavaScript, but I don't know the first thing about hacking and looking at this firmware and writing the shell scripts (I also don't have an NX1 or 500). I looked at the NX cryptophotography link and the GitHub stuff and some others but it would be very beneficial if there was some type of guide so that I could understand the basics and learn a full foundation of what I should do to read the firmware info, write scripts, hack, etc. Are there any solid resources that you recommend? Or would you be able to write some kind of guide? Thanks, Vaga

I'm wondering what the difference in DR with these cameras is between RAW photo and video modes. I'm really debating between the NX1 and the a6300. The DR and lowlight in the a6300 are really intriguing me while the battery, touchscreen, and hacking are pulling me to the NX1 side. The autofocus seems very comparable between the two (perhaps slightly better on the a6300). I would like to know what the DR in photo mode would be compared to video in the NX1 (Gamma DR or other modes for example). In many of the NX1 video samples I've seen, the skies are completely white, and that really aggravates me. I'm trying to figure out if that is a stylistic thing or if it is impossible to get things properly exposed in video on the NX1. What's the difference like in lowlight? Similar measurements/info for the a6300 would be much appreciated. Thanks, Vaga

@kidzrevil, would you recommend getting the zeiss lenses for either the NX1or the a6300?

Hey Otto, I was looking through your github profile and I saw that there were options for 98fps in 4k, 1080 and 720 (also 1080p240). Can you try enabling the 98fps? And also what is the 98? Not even a multiple of anything proper.

Definitely red rs

ehh 1 out of 3. I can recognize the NX1 pretty easily at this point. That was my original order because of your dog scene but something that came later caused me to change my mind.

So this vasile guy successfully removed time limit? Super solid. Now NX1 has more or less parity with the GH4.

Agree about the background RS, but realistically, there's probably no situation that you'd be orbiting around a subject that fast anyway. I like the skintones a lot, but they did become flatter and less detailed at night, but hey what do you expect? This camera's footage is consistently some of the best I've seen; just seems to be a problem of usability more than anything. If you can use a USB battery pack, hopefully, 2 of the major problems with this cam (and every other Sony cam lol) will be solved (poor battery and strange size).

So in this test are the cameras in the same order each time? If so, then A is 5Diii, B is Sony, C is NX1. The Sony has a bit of a purple-ish, kind of indigo push and some chromatic aberration on the edges (esp. boat scene), the NX has a green push that is apparent even after people color grade and has relatively weak DR that results in more white skies and also is the one with the most notable RS artifacts. I'm not quite sure if the cameras are in the same order for each shot though.

I think it is probably relatively easy to design an adapter and 3D print it so that the flange distance and where the lens sits is the same. I could probably try it in the summer. Of course, making a smart adapter is a little more complicated but I too have been wondering why that hasn't happened for the nx1 at all.

Don't forget Nikon Hacks

That is true: I haven't either

Too many posts for me to read through everything right now. Have you all seen this?

looks like @nokker's suggestion worked, but the question still remains: if I want to remove my account from the OnePlus 2 so I can give it to my uncle (he doesn't need to see my emails! Lol) will the camera app still be fully registered?