agolex

NX1 seems to be limited to 1/30, no matter what. It does have slow shooting modes that go down to 1.25 fps, though, so I'm pretty sure that you're not too limited creatively.

for this technique you want less frames per second.  Shooting at 120fps means you will degrade image quality for no reason since each frame will be sharp, and low light benefits no longer apply.
 
 
 for instance, 25p at 1/5th of a second confirms perfectly when sped up to 500% since the 1/5th shutter equates to 5 frames being exposed with one image.  hyperspeed by 500% smooths as if it were 25fps.  
 
shooting 24p and 1/4 sec means you need to speed up by 600% to keep the perfect conformation.  1/4 x 600% = 1/24th sec or 360degree shutter.
 
 
 
this was shot on the humble NEX5n, more than 3 years ago at around 400iso i think.  imagine how clean the a7s would be when in this mode. 

Sony allow as slow as 1/4sec at any frame rate.  shooting at 25p and 1/5th sec then speeding it up by 500% gives beautiful low light results for timelapse type stuff.  with the motion blur which is very pleasing for thing slike cars in the dark.  
https://vimeo.com/52579247 
 

I might not be too professional about this, but I came to the conclusion that complex RAID setups are nothing for me and as long as you're no data host or anything, I don't believe it has to be for you, either.
Consider this: the really high transfer rates you need only for editing, so I go like this: I use a RAID 0 of two inexpensive 7.200 RPM HDs for editing, temporary storage, two SSDs (one for OS, one for caching), so you can always read from one, cache on another and write to a third array/disk. If you need more speed, just use an SSD RAID 0 or whatever. In terms of storage and backup I use inexpensive USB 3 solutions like these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tool-free-Inateck-Including-External-Comaptible/dp/B00GIDNLI6/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1440515061&sr=8-10&keywords=inateck+usb+3
Windows 10 works perfectly with USB 3 solutions (previous Windows versions did have issues), dunno about Mac, though. I just dump the data onto inexpensive 7.200 HDs (write speed around 120 to 140 MB/s), handwrite something on the label and put them into a closet. If the data is super precious, just get two disks. I do have a Synology 8-bay NAS, but I hate using it. And if something goes wrong, rebuild times are tedious, the damn thing has to run all the time and it's not as fast as your main workstation. So nowadays I'm all about JBOD (just a bunch of disks) as long as you have good control over your environment and shit. Works as long as you're no corporate bigwig. Inexpensive, uncomplicated and imho reliable.
Oh, if anyone in Europe wants to buy the Synology DS1813+, give me a shout.

Cheers! Making more sense now. 
I'm going to spin a few projects through the drives and see how it performs. Hopefully it will be ok and i can get back to focusing on the things I do best
I'm just this minute saving 163GB of video footage onto the drive... the waiting time is just 4 minutes! 

I might not be too professional about this, but I came to the conclusion that complex RAID setups are nothing for me and as long as you're no data host or anything, I don't believe it has to be for you, either.
Consider this: the really high transfer rates you need only for editing, so I go like this: I use a RAID 0 of two inexpensive 7.200 RPM HDs for editing, temporary storage, two SSDs (one for OS, one for caching), so you can always read from one, cache on another and write to a third array/disk. If you need more speed, just use an SSD RAID 0 or whatever. In terms of storage and backup I use inexpensive USB 3 solutions like these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tool-free-Inateck-Including-External-Comaptible/dp/B00GIDNLI6/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1440515061&sr=8-10&keywords=inateck+usb+3
Windows 10 works perfectly with USB 3 solutions (previous Windows versions did have issues), dunno about Mac, though. I just dump the data onto inexpensive 7.200 HDs (write speed around 120 to 140 MB/s), handwrite something on the label and put them into a closet. If the data is super precious, just get two disks. I do have a Synology 8-bay NAS, but I hate using it. And if something goes wrong, rebuild times are tedious, the damn thing has to run all the time and it's not as fast as your main workstation. So nowadays I'm all about JBOD (just a bunch of disks) as long as you have good control over your environment and shit. Works as long as you're no corporate bigwig. Inexpensive, uncomplicated and imho reliable.
Oh, if anyone in Europe wants to buy the Synology DS1813+, give me a shout.

I might not be too professional about this, but I came to the conclusion that complex RAID setups are nothing for me and as long as you're no data host or anything, I don't believe it has to be for you, either.
Consider this: the really high transfer rates you need only for editing, so I go like this: I use a RAID 0 of two inexpensive 7.200 RPM HDs for editing, temporary storage, two SSDs (one for OS, one for caching), so you can always read from one, cache on another and write to a third array/disk. If you need more speed, just use an SSD RAID 0 or whatever. In terms of storage and backup I use inexpensive USB 3 solutions like these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tool-free-Inateck-Including-External-Comaptible/dp/B00GIDNLI6/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1440515061&sr=8-10&keywords=inateck+usb+3
Windows 10 works perfectly with USB 3 solutions (previous Windows versions did have issues), dunno about Mac, though. I just dump the data onto inexpensive 7.200 HDs (write speed around 120 to 140 MB/s), handwrite something on the label and put them into a closet. If the data is super precious, just get two disks. I do have a Synology 8-bay NAS, but I hate using it. And if something goes wrong, rebuild times are tedious, the damn thing has to run all the time and it's not as fast as your main workstation. So nowadays I'm all about JBOD (just a bunch of disks) as long as you have good control over your environment and shit. Works as long as you're no corporate bigwig. Inexpensive, uncomplicated and imho reliable.
Oh, if anyone in Europe wants to buy the Synology DS1813+, give me a shout.

You do have to figure out how to make it work and in what situations to use, then it's not absolute crap.

You do have to figure out how to make it work and in what situations to use, then it's not absolute crap.

In addition to image stability, I'm happy to announce my unofficial, unplanned drop test was a complete success. 
Peak design backpack kit was a complete failure though. Dropped the nx1 from 5 feet onto solid granite straight onto the lens and slid 10 more feet down the mountain. It still runs like a champ. The thing is a tank.

You should go off the Tyrrell's, you're shaking like mad!
I think the DIS is an interesting feature and quite admirable, I doubt there's any major company that would have added something like this gratis. It seems to work best with longer focal lenghts. And it just came out, so there's probably a few tweaks to be made.

Some tests I just did with the Samsung DIS:
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks my friend, appreciated. : )

Thank you!
 

I didn't trust the small body, wanted to get it over the RX10 in the beginning, as well, but held back. Just get the 10 instead if you're willing to pay the extra, same incredible image and no issues.

Aye. Or set another Picture Profile to incorporate S-Log2 as Gamma.

Thanks for the tip on Ardour, it looks decent and so is Reaper (more on the midi/recording side; not quite free but almost). However my working professional colleagues won't give up Protools (and can't really- required for high-end features). If Ardour was as good as or better than Protools they'd drop Protools immediately and start saving money.
If Libre Office was better than MS Office, the same thing- anyone in business would save money and stop paying MS. That hasn't happened.
If GIMP was in the same league as Photoshop, all the professionals would save the now monthly fees and stop paying Adobe. That hasn't happened.
Open source hasn't taken over solely due to FUD? Can you share a double-blind study showing that is a statistically significant hypothesis?
When I work in Ubuntu, the UI looks like something designed by non-professionals. It works, but it's clunky and was clearly designed by folks with little or no cognitive science background. OSX has issues as well; Windows surprisingly is looking the best these days. As a developer I use them all, and call the best the best based on design and functionality, no agenda or religious attachment; as close to the scientific method as possible. OSX and XCode development tools are far advanced compared to Android Studio (mobile Linux). Android Studio's emulator is so slow it's necessary to use a third party solution (Genymotion, etc.). Linux is great for backend (webservers, etc.) and tools (ffmpeg etc.), OSX and Windows are currently better than Linux for desktop apps. If that changes, I'll stop paying Adobe and switch too. Who wouldn't?
When debating the merits of open source and free software vs. commercial software, the topic of content piracy comes up frequently. Many folks who are ardent supporters of free software don't believe in paying for any content either, and happily pirate everything. Especially as a software developer and content creator, I believe it's important to pay for software as well as content. Do you believe it's important to pay for content or should that be free too? How do you propose independent software developers and content creators make money to pay for food and shelter? The little guys putting out quality software and content without any bloat?
The simple answer was if open source software was better than commercial software, everyone would immediately stop buying commercial software and there would only be open source software. This may happen someday, but as of 8/20/15 it's not even close.

As you may have noticed by now, there's only Cine 1 and 2 on the RX10 II.

Cine 2 is really not much worse than CINE4 for dynamic range - I would recommend CINE2 then.  

Have you read the EULA for facebook or twitter or your iphone or android phone?  Or just every time you use google or amazon.  It's crazy.  And the NSA collecting everything - none of us have privacy. 

Messing with the A7R II - good, but I would wait if you can till the A7S II - rolling shutter issues.  Also save some cash. 
 
Here's my receipe that I'm liking:
COLOR MATRIX  - Pro, not s gamut - reds feel more red
COLOR GAMMA - CINE4, not slog - cleaner highlights.  Slog2 looks weird with an 8 bit codec how it gets noisy in highlights
Black Level: 0
Black Gamma > Range: Middle , Level: -3
Knee > Mode: Auto , Auto Set > Max Point: 95 , Sensitivity: Mid
Colore Mode: Pro
Saturation: +8
Color Phase -2
Color Depth > R+1, G-1, B+2,, C-2, M-1, Y-3
Detail > Level, -5 Adjust > Mode; Manual, V/H Balance: -2, B/W Balance Type3, Limit: 0, Crispening:0, hi_light Detail: 0
White balance > Manual > Grid setting B 1 (one to the left)
You don't have to follow it perfectly, but overall it can get to some stunning results.
And the secret to any log recording is post.  Use film convert.  filmconvert.com.  Or impulz luts.  Select slog 2 - modify it - less contrast - less of a curve since it's less flat as s log 2
I used Film Convert Arri Alexa Log C profile for grading. FilmConvert setting is Arri Alexa as the camera. logC. film stock is Fuji Film 8543 Vivid. color 93. curve 100. size 35mm full frame. grain 0.  But just mess around - find what you like.
Have fun!
And everyone post your own.  Together we can help each other improve.  That's what it's all about - using the Hive to get better.  Get knowledge, give knowledge.

Science, yeah. Hail Science!

!?!!?!