Grimor

Hey, finally done with the trailer to our debut feature film at 55Media shot almost entirely on the Panasonic GH5 (some shots on the GoPro6 and P4P) in just 12 days.
Our best work yet. Movie is still going through post-production.
Production company: 55Media
Director/Writer: Uche Aguh
Director of Photography: Dennis Schmitz (me)
Assistant Director: Ukairo U. Ukairo.

Starring: Jarius Drew Sowells, Kayode Akinyemi, Vincent Ramirez, Thiree Pinnock, Julian Horton, Obum Nwankwo and J Shawn Durham as 'Daddy G'

Editing done in Premiere.
Colorgrading done in Davinci Resolve.
Dealing with the usual quirks of this camera, but results are still great.

More information:
www.imdb.com/title/tt7928156
www.55media.net

If you don't mind a bit of a project.....?
You can start and stop the MixPre 3 with keyboard commands on its USB port (CTRL+R and CTRL+S) and the arduino boards like the Sparkfun Pro Micro have easy programmable functionality to emulate a keyboard. They can also be used to make LANC controls (with a minimal amount of breadboard action  ).
So you could make a very simple (and very small) box with a simple push button that would start/stop the C100 over LANC and also simultaneously start/stop the MixPre 3 over USB with the TC being passed via HDMI from the C100 to the Atomos to the MixPre 3. Or even a small HDMI splitter if the Atomos is stripping it.
The little box would actually be powered by the LANC port of the C100 as well.

If you are dead set on ditching the GH5, I'd cash it out as soon as you can and get a cheap 2nd hand G7 and review again when the Pocket comes out.
The G7 will tide you over nicely and keep you in MFT so you can keep your glass as a hedge for if you go for the Pocket.
If you decide against the pocket you won't have lost hardly anything re-selling the G7.
Especially if you buy it in the UK and sell it in Alicante !
Spoilsport  

Working ok with no issues at the moment. 
Really helpfull for match color style of different lumix cameras and fine tunning on the field.
Now that you have all my phone contacts, don't forget to call my mom and say her i will be on her house to lunch next saturday... 
Thanks a lot, you are great!!!

Working ok with no issues at the moment. 
Really helpfull for match color style of different lumix cameras and fine tunning on the field.
Now that you have all my phone contacts, don't forget to call my mom and say her i will be on her house to lunch next saturday... 
Thanks a lot, you are great!!!

Oh man, Thats a real Quick app!!
Thanks!!!

I agree regarding a real time tweaker (as with my hardware one) but, yes, this is for a different purpose to build a complete reference file of all the permutations in a very structured way.
Let me get back to you about a tweaker app as its not a huge effort to knock one together if you want it.

So, as you may recall, I have an interest in tweaking the combinations of the basic profiles in the camera along with the contrast/sharpness/saturation/NR parameters.
The purpose of that is basically a mining operation to see if there are some combinations that perhaps may not be intuitive but whose interaction may yield pleasing results.
Outside of the usual "select cinelike d, reduce everything to -5" etc stuff that we all do, who really knows if Natural with +4 contrast/-5 sharpness/+3 saturation/+2 noise reduction might actually be the golden ticket?
I did a hardware controller last year based on a midi control surface that let you tweak the parameters in real time which, whilst offering a way of 'discovery through play', wasn't exactly ideal from a structured testing point of view. 
It also wasn't particularly practical (or cheap) for you to go out and replicate yourselves if you fancied a go !
Anyway, in pursuit of something a bit more structured, I created a very simple automated testing app which I thought I might as well hand out in case anyone else is interested in this sort of thing.
Its Android only so you elitists with that other phone type are out of luck for now
As its also a bit of a utilitarian thing that was only really designed for my own meddling, its not exactly pretty either but it works. Mainly.
OK, so here is how it looks, how to use it and what it does.
 
First things first, obviously, is to enable the Wifi on your Panasonic camera as per if you were using their app and then go into your phone/tablet and connect to it.
In the ProfileStepper app, you then press the "Connect" button and it will take control of the camera. It might complain the first time about approving the connection but if it does just repeat and it will be fine.
Once connected, you press the individual parameter buttons and select the range that you are interested in so in this example we have set it to be using the base Natural profile and how it looks with all permutations of Contrast from -5 to +3, Sharpness from -2 to 0, Saturation from -5 to +5 and NR from -5 to +1.
Next up is to set if you want to use Stills or Video, which we toggle between by pressing the Stills button and then to create a delay (of between 1 and 10 seconds) between shots you press the button (currently set to 2 seconds) and select it.
When you are happy with the settings range, press the Start button and the app will begin compiling the list of commands it needs to send to the camera. As this is a variable amount of time (in our example there are 2079 commands ) you may see a progress pop-up before it proceeds to the playout screen. Be patient.
The progress screen will then appear and display the value of each parameter in the set it is sending to the camera and the current progress (in this case we are on set 4 of 2079).

After it sends each set to the camera, if you have the mode set to Stills it will then fire the shutter on the camera. Obviously, make sure you have a decent memory card capacity if you are testing a lot of permutations!
If you are set to Video mode, a recording will begin on the camera as soon as you pressed the Start button and the changes will all be recorded into this one recording. This is where the Delay function becomes useful as it determines how long each setting is held on the video as it progresses. As with the Stills mode, be careful regarding capacity as if you have 1000 permutations with a Delay time of 5 seconds then, well....
In either mode, pressing the Stop button will abort and return you to the main screen and if you are in video mode it will stop the recording.
The purpose of the progress screen is not just to provide you with a countdown to whats going on but also meant to act as a slate so that you can put your phone/tablet in your test scene and the settings will then be embedded in the images/video when you review them. This is an example frame from a GX80 to illustrate. 
There is a 3 second delay built in to the beginning of the command playout process to allow you to do this but obviously as the camera is being controlled over Wifi you can place the phone/tablet in the scene and press Start from there anyway. This just gives you a chance to get your hand out of the way !

So there you go.
Its a bit of a niche app to say the least but might be useful for some.
Bear in mind, its not really meant to be about analysing every single permutation in one go (though it can do that if you want) its more about helping you to look at how more targeted ranges of settings interact with each other (such as Saturation and Contrast in a specific Profile for example). And what exactly is the Noise Reduction bringing to the party in terms of colour shifts and sharpening etc.
Download link is here
https://mega.nz/#!Vux3UDIK!TPJNYc8gJ6YrQY5T8xkZRAQ_IpBac16xIIGe3ET6R0Y
You'll need to set your device to install apps from non-Play store sources etc.
Its completely free, no ads or any bollocks like that.
As I say, its my own test tool and wasn't designed for general release but thought it might be useful to share.
If nothing else, its a quick way to get the Cinelike D hack on to your camera!
Because its just a quick and dirty test tool, there is no particularly elegant error handling going on (other than telling you that you haven't connected the camera) so if it throws one up just quit and restart it. 
If you set the To range to be lower than the From range (i.e. the From is -3 and the To is -4) then it won't execute the commands so don't do that. 
NB - The eagle eyed amongst you may have spotted the Bracket function at the bottom of the screen. This does exactly what you might expect but its unrelated to the main function but I needed it to test something so you get it as a bonus! You set the shutter speed and then the 1/3rd steps above and below and press Bracket and it takes the required frames with suitably altered shutter speeds. Its a bit flaky on some Panasonic cameras because they don't all allow the 1/3rd shutter changes so your mileage may vary and, as I say, you can largely ignore it.

I largely think we've managed to get things arse backwards when it comes to emulating a film look.
Because everyone now has the ability to change everything about an image in post there is barely any emphasis on getting it right - or at least consistent - in camera first.
If a camera manufacturer said :
"OK, we are putting all our eggs in one basket here but we have absolutely perfected an in camera look that is identical to Kodak Vision 250D (for example). Our entire sensor and processing design is based on purely just replicating that but we guarantee that if you shoot with this it will be indivisible from if you'd used that stock. Oh and you'll only be able to use it to shoot up to ISO800 though".
Would you buy it?
I think I would.
Personally speaking, taking away all those variables that offer endless rabbit holes to explore but often just disappear down and making something work within a constant framework would be challenging but ultimately more creative and productive. 
This is a really interesting piece about preparation in camera to match film and the follow up piece is here :
http://yedlin.net/OnColorScience/
 
Its quite timely that this has come up because I've been interested in tweaking combinations of base colour profiles and constrast/saturation/sharpness etc parameters in Panasonic cameras for a while with a view to mining some in camera combinations that may not be obvious ones but actually work well visually.
The timely part is I've just finished an app today that does automated stepping through all combinations (from selectable ranges) whilst either capturing a still per combo or as one continuous video with the changes embedded.
I'll give it its own thread tomorrow if anyone is interested.
 

100% agree with those point.
Will ad "camera movement" as key point too.
Simple slider/crane shoots and people around you will say "woah!!, looks like a film!!"

And now, he is probably more confused than before
 

Olé!!!

And now, he is probably more confused than before
 

And to make matters worse most photographers work for a company. And guess who owns the rights to the photos, the Company. Ain't no money in stock photos unless you are nearly a household name that that people go to your website to buy stuff. And to get those type of shots, takes lots of money for gear, to pay models, to rent a Helicopter or fly to China on and on. You aren't going to shoot many Stock photos walking around your own town unless you live in Paris or Rome.
And then you are in business, and being in business is not as glamorous as it sounds. Been there done that 3 times in my life. 2 of them incorporated. 10, 12 hours a day or more, maybe 7 days a week. As a Photographer if you are doing weddings, they are Always on the weekend, or own a restaurant etc you will be working 7 days a week. Good way to get divorced, or have a Heart Attack, or both LoL.
Speaking of Stock Photos, I do like this one. It is on Adam Lillard's Facebook page.
 

Really hard porn there...
50 Shades of BTM !!!

He is indeed.
Not long now....

8K is the future, buying a 4K domain would be like having an HD reference in your site or something like "eos" or both...

I think the ES that @jonpais is using is "Errata Sendorum", which is an old Latin phrase used in English contract law in reference to failing to deliver an SLR Magic Rangefinder

Welcome back, master!!! Hope everything was OK and nice to see you again !!!

The whiteboard and diagrams put me off watching it but I think I've got the gist of what's going on.
The GX80/85 doesn't have the shutter angle control but that might not be a dead end.
The two ways to possibly do it would be the usual trick to fake the message coming from Panasonic's app and hope the GX accepts it but this would rely on it being available in the app in the first place so if someone with a GH5 could confirm that then that would be a start.
The other option potentially would be to send it shutter speeds that were 'in the cracks' and see what happens. The shutter speed commands are formulated in a particular way with the shutter speed as you would recognise it (50,125,250) etc combined with another number that is sequential but reduces by 8 (or something, I havent got my laptop to hand) between each step. Maybe, there is some mileage in seeing if changing the second number to something less than a difference of 8 is a way to set it between the cracks.
So, in summary, the answer is a hesitant maybe but I haven't got a GH5 and I can't look at the other method until I'm back off this trip next week.

I second the Artlist recommendation. I've been using it for the past year or so, and for $199 a year, unlimited tracks, unlimited use, it's a no brainer. We've since started using it at work as well, and they actually have very usable, nice-sounding tracks. By far the best bang for buck, especially when you're churning out a lot of projects. 

I have tested the hot shoe xlr adapter with sennheisser mic and it is really great performance.
Good quality  sound direct to the camera.

Use a crane/Jib for indoor.
Drone is dangerous so close to your actress and you will get lot of wind, sound , dust and maybe blood on your take.
Outside whatever drone with tiltable 3axis gimbal will do the job.

Use a crane/Jib for indoor.
Drone is dangerous so close to your actress and you will get lot of wind, sound , dust and maybe blood on your take.
Outside whatever drone with tiltable 3axis gimbal will do the job.