kidzrevil

@sandro think its a skill level thing bro. A different technique to getting your shots or improving your current one can help....I remember saying you had a problem with getting shots of people skiing....when I was in the navy I was getting shots of fighter jets...in motion with a manual focus lens. If your not getting the shots you need in manual focus and auto focus then yeah I don't think there is any camera or lens combo that can help till you improve your technique

@sandro I wouldn't rule it out as impossible...wasn't impossible for the 1,000's of sports photographers that came before the invention of digital bodies and AF lenses...

@sandro yeah I read what you said and no offense I think your issue is user error. No AF is perfect and if people are still getting great shots with cameras that have worse AF tech than the nx1 you may want to consider the issues you are having user error and possibly you may want to try using manual focus in certain situations. Thats just my take

I dont think they bothered to look into it. The flange distance wont be compatible with certain lenses but not all....they need to take another look at the specs Disagree. That Samsung sensor is incredible and works well with adapted lenses

@Happy Daze gonna try that out thx

@sandro 110 mbps for 120fps and 160 for 60fps

@Happy Daze I convert to 16=235 before I grade in premiere because premiere does not render 0-255 correctly and the issue is still there. At the default master pedestal level the black level is extremely low and some details do not get recorded. I've tried lowering contrast but that effects more of the midtone area more than the shadows do. It's only when I started using master pedestal did I notice that at +15 MP deep blacks were slightly above 0 in the 0-255 range were as at 0 MP there was information in the shadows that were lost

1250 is the ceiling for me. I try to stay away from 1600 if possible but have no problems using it if need be. Master pedestal however is the tricky part. I assume samsung decided to crush the blacks cause consumers like the contrasty saturated look and also to help mask the NR. Thats my theory

Those jump cuts are killing me lmaaaao troll of the century ??

wow thats crazy @IronFilm

@hmcindie you sure you dont have a defective model ? I own an rx10 ii and have never ran into that isue

Agreed

@sandro go outside shoot something then look at the footage on your NLE :-D you should be fine though

@The Chris slog2 looks better on my rx10ii. I think they may need to hit the drawing board when it comes to FLOG

8 bit + LOG = a shit show. i'll stick to REC709 when I finally get my hands on an xt2

Gamma c looks SO good out the camera imo ??. Its like normal gamma but the contrast looks more "filmic" and subdued in skin tones and in the mids. Combine that with a +15 master pedestal and it no longer clips the shadows, I love it @sandro

@Parker agreed. Right now I am playing with gamma c with -10 sharpness and +15 master pedestal. I really like the look SOOC

@sandro i'll test today !

I still wanna know if @Otto K @kinoseed or @vasile can give us a constant high res EVF like it is when you switch to movie standby mode. That will make shooting stills infinitey easier with this camera

The profiles I use are standard,portrait & gamma c at default settings with -10 sharpness and +15 Master pedestal. Its not worth touching the contrast settings on the nx1.

Lol I said it before that dudes "technical advice" was bullshit. He just uses general talking points to sound knowledgeable...ask him to help test out something using one of the cameras in his huge arsenal and dude dissapears smh. Dishonesty just....rubs me the wrong way. Hope all three people get their money back I thought it was just one guy smhhhh

Andrews settings for the nx1 are overrated & unfounded. Especially the 0.95x color shift thing he came up with

@neosushi you have to grade out the red. I used DeLuts after filmconvert to get this look

I have to ask them which picture profile they used for the Normal gamma option. I assume its the Standard picture profile. Either way I would avoid the normal gamma profile and use the gamma c and gamma dr options. Also its time to put the 0.94x green channel thing to rest. I shot this in gamma dr -4 contrast,-2 saturation

I get best results when I add my own curve after I apply filmconvert