John Palmer

Hey has anyone heard/ seen anything from this lens - Wesley 8mm f2.8. It appears to be a C- mount adapted to E and Ive found video examples of other lenses under the "Wesley" brand but not this one. It appears to have a more solid construction than most other C mount lenses and also seems a bit larger. It apparently has an 11 blade iris too which seems awesome but since I can't find any examples online, still a little hesitant on pulling the trigger on one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wesley-Fish-Eye-8-mm-F2-8-E-Mount-APSC-Lens-for-Sony-Camera-NEX-6-7-A5000-A6000-/391477361865?hash=item5b25de7cc9:g:IKgAAOSwKfVXFYyB This Mitakon Speedmaster 35mm f.95 seems pretty awesome though fairly expensive (cheap for what it is though). I was also considering a MIR 37mm f2.8. Obviously the Mitakon would perform better in low-light but I feel that the Mitakon may lack the character of the MIR even though bokeh would most likely be much smoother. If anyone owns any of these lenses and can offer any insight, it'd be greatly appreciated. I'd be using them on an a6300 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitakon-Speedmaster-35mm-F-0-95-II-Lens-for-Sony-E-Mount-NEX-camera-A6000-A5100-/152070945753?hash=item2368227bd9:g:j2UAAOSw-tNXId88

vintage Vivitar lenses (come in various lens mounts) have some pretty nice looks (its hit or miss though). I got a Vivitar 28mm f2 in c/y mount for about $30 that is has good contrast, but still pretty low contrast when it comes to modern lenses and surprising sharp wide open. Old russian lenses like the Mir and Helios (lomo may make some Still lenses too) but those are usually the most organic looking in general

I made a post just like this about 2 months ago. Still haven't pulled the trigger. Been waiting for a little bit better of a price and I may be getting a full time position at a university so possibly getting a stipend for extra equipment. Ive been camera-less for almost 2 months and haven't had a hard time doing any jobs though luckily I have a buddy with an a7s2 I've been using for most projects

a contax/ Yashica Zeiss 28mm f2 could be used to shoot an entire film for sure (any camera) and be awsesome

Ive read some things online about this overheating issue and one person claims to have fixed it (or at least made it less of a problem) by adding a cage to the body. Somehow this disperses the heat or acts as some type of heat-sink (I may not be using the correct terminology so please correct me if so). Also, if you're going to be shooting all day. There are usually plenty of opportunities to turn the camera off when not using it. If you're afraid of overheating why not give the little guy a break, remove the battery and leave the battery door open. Other people have also claimed to have shot outdoors in 4k and not experienced over heating problems Rolling shutter also does not appear that bad to me in most test videos Ive seen. When you pan a camera back and forth quickly on a tripod I'm sure it looks terrible, but that is rarely a common practice when filming anything unless you're trying to shoot a live basketball/ tennis match Does anyone know what the A6300 outputs over HDMI? to the blackmagic video assist in particular would be nice Also, has anyone tried using an E-mount speedbooster on the a6300, I would love to see an example if so

Hey everybody, I have a buddy who has an a7s 2 (which I borrow and use pretty often) and he seems to be having a problem with the battery life. After a battery is fully charged and put in the camera (not even turning the camera on for a while) the battery appears to have drained some of its charg just by being inside the camera (a significant amount) after about 30ming-1hour of it sitting inside, nothing running or buttons pressed. Has anyone experienced a similar issue? He says he has found stuff online about it but I can't seem to find any reliable info on this. From what he has found, it appears to be an issue with the camera itself. The batteries are standard, stock batteries from Sony and its possible that the batteries are defective but he has tried this on several different batteries (all still Sony brand) with similar effects, so it could also be the charger but I'm not so sure. I have never experienced this issue while using the camera. He has had it for about 2 months and does not leave the batteries on the charger long after the indicator light changes Anyone have any insight on this?

Now that that prices are really low and, Ive been considering buying one to play around with and use the Magic lantern firmware (just recently sold gh4 because I got a really good offer on it from a friend. Was just wondering if any of you guys have used either of them and may know about their cons/benefits. Obviously the 50d with be cheaper but I really like having the full frame look, especially since it'd be used for more experimental projects. But if the video quality isn't a huge difference and there aren't any strange issues, I was just hoping one of you guys might have some insight into this. ML has been around for a while so I imagine most of their stuff works pretty smoothly and bug free. Obviously I would buy a mk3 if the price dropped but at this moment it doesn't seem worth it thanks!

thanks for the comments fellas. My thoughts exactly. I owned a gh4 for the past 1.5 years but sold it to a buddy for $2g + accessories. Kept all my Contax Zeiss primes and Tokina 28-70 f2.6-2.8 though. I have seen several FZ to nikon and EF adapters. Was feeling like the gh4 wouldn't be worth as much in the next 6 months. Always been a fan of bigger cameras and I never used anything over 60p on the gh4, so the slow motion capabilities of the f3 isn't a deterring factor. No AF is definitely not a problem either I believe For Safety Not Guaranteed they did shoot it on the f3 but did a film transfer. At least that's what I remember it saying on IMDB. I thought it was a good looking film either way

Thanks jagnje! I agree. Do you think that is has a better color science than Sony's new cam's? I found this video awhile ago that I thought was pretty awesome looking (a little long for what it is but its looks like it handles the shadows very nicely skin tones look great compared to a Scarlett too ( Though If the dude was better at grading It could look better)

Other than they are oldish and max out at 1080p ( A pretty good looking 1080p though) I can't think of a true reason, other than finances, to not buy one It seems really tempting when there are so many sitting on ebay in the sub $2000 range I worked on shoots with them years ago and they seemed pretty reliable but I was just 2nd AC, so did not really do anything with the camera itself. It seemed to perform pretty well in low light too Users of the F3: What was your least favorite thing about it?

I have the neat video plugin (pro version) for sony vegas. Ive been very happy with the results though I do not use it very often, I usually like to leave a little grain or add some anyway and I do not really like the look of footage that has been heavily denoised. I have never had any issues with things taking a long time to render either. If you denoise a 4k file and then downscale it to 1080p, whatever noise may be left will be much more fine. Also, downscaling 4k to 1080p without denoising generally results in a much nicer looking grain than if you just shot in 1080p. I would definitely recommend not denoising an image so much as for it to have absolutely no grain left. a little texture is a good thing I have also found that I prefer how neat video's sharpening function looks over using a standard one in vegas or premiere. Doesn't look as plastic like the others

olympus OM 35-70 f3.6 is supposed to be good. the front element does not rotate either. I haven't gotten around to buying one, so haven't actually tried it though You can get one is nice condition for less than $100

I use PNY Elite cards and never had an issue in any of the recording modes except 1080p 200mbps All-i, but it only has happened twice and I rarely record in that resolution. half the price of the sandisk but very similar performance in my opinion Sequential Read = 83.4 MByte/sec Random Read = 4.1 MByte/sec Sequential Write= 62.7 MByte/sec Random Write= 864.0 kByte/sec http://www.amazon.com/PNY-Elite-Performance-Speed-Class/dp/B00HIKBW1G

you could get a C/y mount zeiss 35mm f2.8 and adapt to ef adapted FD lenses to EF requires an adapter with glass in it and I wouldn't recommend doing that, I dont think there are any high quality ones and if there are, probably not worth the money. Adapt FD to MFT is much easier though. You could get FD to MFT chinese RJ speedbooster, Ive been pretty happy with mine for the price. with a speedbooster on 35mm lens on my gh4, it vignettes a good bit. at 40mm the vignette is gone though. There is a 40mm f2.8 Zeiss in c/y mount that is a pancake lens and pretty affordable. Never used it though. Might be worth looking in to though

Leviathan was a great film. I wish i hadnt been drinking a bit before I saw it though, i got a little sleepy at times. Completely agree with you about that film. Haven't seen Ex Machina yet except for trailers and clips online. Im not sure I agree that its anamorphic look is too distracting, but if Im able to see it in a theater it may be more obvious. If they used modern anamorphic lenses do you think it would be any less distracting? I personally really like modern sci fi films more if they shoot them on softer anamorphics. The two just seem to go together, though there are certainly some sci fi films that dont necessarily need to have it to be good. Just always reminds me of Blade Runner or Alien (which I think is why they may have chosen those lenses over something sharper) and i find it helps the film if they are using a lot of digital FX. Seeing really crisp CG in a film that is also crisp and digital-ish looking usually takes me out of the film more often. Its all just personal preference though Im sorry that so many people on this forum hate on you Ed (especially pertaining to your recent emma sulkowicz post) I think you probably post the majority of the well thought out threads on here that provoke more interesting conversation and spread of ideas

shooting in 4k I think the camera automatically cuts a continuous shot into sections that are usually about 4 GB i think. No workaround as far as I know. they all match up just fine if you lay them in the timeline like normal. recording in 1080p might not have a limit but I'm not completely sure. Johnny's correct, be thankful I use mpeg sreamclip for some things. its free and has a good bit of features. Id use adobe media encoder though if you have that. You should download the DNxHD codec too if you don't already have it. I normally just make a project with a 1080p timeline and put the 4k files in as they are. If your computer is having trouble just don't always playback in full resolution. A lot of computers can have trouble playing back compressed 4k files in real time. Need to have a good graphics card and a good amount of RAM mpegstreamclip - http://www.squared5.com/ I am a PC user and shoot them as .mov. Unless I'm using the 4:3 anamorphic mode which only records in mp4. I haven't noticed any real differences, though they are not 100% identical

looks like they could cut together pretty well to me too, even with the sloppy test I definitely would buy an f35 if I had the money. Maybe in about a year when I think I will, it will be even cheaper. Though people may start to mark them up Do you have any moire issues with the f35? I noticed in some early Dexter episodes, which according to imdb 1st couple seasons were shot on an f35, had some really severe looking stuff. Mostly in really wide shots where they show the city.

Ive had to shoot a lot of things at 1600 and I have the best results if I shoot in 4k and downsize to 1080p. Natural profile, master pedestal: +5, -1 highlight and + 1 shadows, contrast -5, saturation -4, noise reduction -4, sharpness - 5, and use a lens that is f2.8 or less I personally like the noise from the gh4 and downscaling definitely makes it look a whole lot better. sharpening will make the grain stand out more. In most situations where I know it will be pretty low light I use my c/y zeiss 50mm f1.7, which is sharp enough wide open to help with most extremely dark situations I also have Neat Video but dont really use it that much unless its a shot that wasat 1600 ISO but is still like 2 stops under exposed. It may be better to just go higher in ISO to expose properly than to under-expose and try to lift in post (in terms of grain)

Cool, thanks rudolf! Now I at least know that they exist. I doubt I will ever be able to find one though.

I had thought there would probably be a few models but I have never been able to find anything How did they shoot anamorphic back in the day if they were using a film camera with c mount lenses? Or with one of those tiny projection lenses? I think if they did exist today they would be much cheaper than buying PL mount anamorphics a Lomo anamorphic C-mount lens would be awesome. Does anyone know why there doesn't seem to be any?

I also have found that movement looks a little off sometimes in my footage from the gh4. It almost looks like they are moving too fast even at 180 degree shutter. I dont use any modern lenses though and it doesn't always look as obvious as other times. maybe shooting at a little bit slower of a shutter speed could falsely correct this? maybe blurring the motion a small enough amount to make it seem like its smoother. Idk

whats the password for the video? Also, how much do they weigh?

damien: what is your camera's system frequency set to? I fixed my issue by putting it into 59.94Hz mode instead of the 24.00 cinema Hz Pietz: you are now able to shoot 24p in anamorphic mode where as before you were limited to 30p or 25p. Im not sure but this new mode may use more of the sensor than the previous version too I personally do not find the firmware update very exciting either, but it is still a nice addition. I will be much more excited when v-log comes around but it may be a while

oh ok, gotcha, that's good. glad you figured it out!

Strange. I assume you have double checked that the .bin file is in the correct place (in the root folder where DCIM and MISC folder is) I format the card in the camera before i copy the file, instead of formatting on my computer. did you do that? Is your battery 100% full?