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John Palmer

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  1. John Palmer

    Lenses

    Hey has anyone heard/ seen anything from this lens - Wesley 8mm f2.8. It appears to be a C- mount adapted to E and Ive found video examples of other lenses under the "Wesley" brand but not this one. It appears to have a more solid construction than most other C mount lenses and also seems a bit larger. It apparently has an 11 blade iris too which seems awesome but since I can't find any examples online, still a little hesitant on pulling the trigger on one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wesley-Fish-Eye-8-mm-F2-8-E-Mount-APSC-Lens-for-Sony-Camera-NEX-6-7-A5000-A6000-/391477361865?hash=item5b25de7cc9:g:IKgAAOSwKfVXFYyB This Mitakon Speedmaster 35mm f.95 seems pretty awesome though fairly expensive (cheap for what it is though). I was also considering a MIR 37mm f2.8. Obviously the Mitakon would perform better in low-light but I feel that the Mitakon may lack the character of the MIR even though bokeh would most likely be much smoother. If anyone owns any of these lenses and can offer any insight, it'd be greatly appreciated. I'd be using them on an a6300 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitakon-Speedmaster-35mm-F-0-95-II-Lens-for-Sony-E-Mount-NEX-camera-A6000-A5100-/152070945753?hash=item2368227bd9:g:j2UAAOSw-tNXId88
  2. vintage Vivitar lenses (come in various lens mounts) have some pretty nice looks (its hit or miss though). I got a Vivitar 28mm f2 in c/y mount for about $30 that is has good contrast, but still pretty low contrast when it comes to modern lenses and surprising sharp wide open. Old russian lenses like the Mir and Helios (lomo may make some Still lenses too) but those are usually the most organic looking in general
  3. I made a post just like this about 2 months ago. Still haven't pulled the trigger. Been waiting for a little bit better of a price and I may be getting a full time position at a university so possibly getting a stipend for extra equipment. Ive been camera-less for almost 2 months and haven't had a hard time doing any jobs though luckily I have a buddy with an a7s2 I've been using for most projects
  4. John Palmer

    One Lens?

    a contax/ Yashica Zeiss 28mm f2 could be used to shoot an entire film for sure (any camera) and be awsesome
  5. Ive read some things online about this overheating issue and one person claims to have fixed it (or at least made it less of a problem) by adding a cage to the body. Somehow this disperses the heat or acts as some type of heat-sink (I may not be using the correct terminology so please correct me if so). Also, if you're going to be shooting all day. There are usually plenty of opportunities to turn the camera off when not using it. If you're afraid of overheating why not give the little guy a break, remove the battery and leave the battery door open. Other people have also claimed to have shot outdoors in 4k and not experienced over heating problems Rolling shutter also does not appear that bad to me in most test videos Ive seen. When you pan a camera back and forth quickly on a tripod I'm sure it looks terrible, but that is rarely a common practice when filming anything unless you're trying to shoot a live basketball/ tennis match Does anyone know what the A6300 outputs over HDMI? to the blackmagic video assist in particular would be nice Also, has anyone tried using an E-mount speedbooster on the a6300, I would love to see an example if so
  6. Hey everybody, I have a buddy who has an a7s 2 (which I borrow and use pretty often) and he seems to be having a problem with the battery life. After a battery is fully charged and put in the camera (not even turning the camera on for a while) the battery appears to have drained some of its charg just by being inside the camera (a significant amount) after about 30ming-1hour of it sitting inside, nothing running or buttons pressed. Has anyone experienced a similar issue? He says he has found stuff online about it but I can't seem to find any reliable info on this. From what he has found, it appears to be an issue with the camera itself. The batteries are standard, stock batteries from Sony and its possible that the batteries are defective but he has tried this on several different batteries (all still Sony brand) with similar effects, so it could also be the charger but I'm not so sure. I have never experienced this issue while using the camera. He has had it for about 2 months and does not leave the batteries on the charger long after the indicator light changes Anyone have any insight on this?
  7. Now that that prices are really low and, Ive been considering buying one to play around with and use the Magic lantern firmware (just recently sold gh4 because I got a really good offer on it from a friend. Was just wondering if any of you guys have used either of them and may know about their cons/benefits. Obviously the 50d with be cheaper but I really like having the full frame look, especially since it'd be used for more experimental projects. But if the video quality isn't a huge difference and there aren't any strange issues, I was just hoping one of you guys might have some insight into this. ML has been around for a while so I imagine most of their stuff works pretty smoothly and bug free. Obviously I would buy a mk3 if the price dropped but at this moment it doesn't seem worth it thanks!
  8. thanks for the comments fellas. My thoughts exactly. I owned a gh4 for the past 1.5 years but sold it to a buddy for $2g + accessories. Kept all my Contax Zeiss primes and Tokina 28-70 f2.6-2.8 though. I have seen several FZ to nikon and EF adapters. Was feeling like the gh4 wouldn't be worth as much in the next 6 months. Always been a fan of bigger cameras and I never used anything over 60p on the gh4, so the slow motion capabilities of the f3 isn't a deterring factor. No AF is definitely not a problem either I believe For Safety Not Guaranteed they did shoot it on the f3 but did a film transfer. At least that's what I remember it saying on IMDB. I thought it was a good looking film either way
  9. Thanks jagnje! I agree. Do you think that is has a better color science than Sony's new cam's? I found this video awhile ago that I thought was pretty awesome looking (a little long for what it is but its looks like it handles the shadows very nicely skin tones look great compared to a Scarlett too ( Though If the dude was better at grading It could look better)
  10. Other than they are oldish and max out at 1080p ( A pretty good looking 1080p though) I can't think of a true reason, other than finances, to not buy one It seems really tempting when there are so many sitting on ebay in the sub $2000 range I worked on shoots with them years ago and they seemed pretty reliable but I was just 2nd AC, so did not really do anything with the camera itself. It seemed to perform pretty well in low light too Users of the F3: What was your least favorite thing about it?
  11. I have a Schneider Century 1.33x Anamorphic Adapter for sale. Perfectly clear glass, original - box, paperwork, lens hood, and caps. Its single focus. Rotating front element for proper alignment with locking screw Selling for $400. A very good deal I am also including a +1, +2, +4 set of basically new Tiffen Diopters with the lens. The +1 is very useful if shooting a subject no further than ~7 feet away for sharper closeups The only reason I am selling is so I can have money to rent something nicer for an upcoming shoot. I have been very pleased with this lens for the purposes Ive needed it for. If you are buying it you should already be aware of the + and - of this lens. I have paired it with an Vivitar FD mount 28mm f2.5 lens, no speedbooster, on a gh4. Also have used an 18mm Sigma Om mount with speedbooster with little vignetting, Zeiss 28mm and 50mm C/y mount w/ and w/out speedbooster. All performed pretty well wide open or around f2. the 50mm f1.7 was usable around f2/2.8 It has a bayonet mount but I was able to put a 62mm rear thread on it and it can probably work a slightly smaller thread size. It will depend on the size of your step-up ring. By unscrewing the bayonet mount you can then place a step-up ring in the space that was left and then screw the bayonet mount back on to tighten the step-up ring to the adapter. Never had any trouble with anything slipping or loosening. I will include the ring that is currently there with everything else too. No glue or adhesive needs to be used so the actual body of the adapter hasn't been permanently altered by the modifications, It also has a 67mm front thread that was attached with a high strength double sided tape. It could be removed with no damage but it is on there very securely. It increases the front end's diameter a few millimeters but the lens hood is still able to snap on properly. I would suggest leaving it on there though because the part that I used fits very well I might post it on ebay and we could do the transaction through that or we can work something else out through paypal. US buyers preferred. LINK TO PHOTOS: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10207196505003401.1073741832.1006434215&type=1&l=5529ee4d59https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10207196505003401.1073741832.1006434215&type=1&l=5529ee4d59
  12. I have the neat video plugin (pro version) for sony vegas. Ive been very happy with the results though I do not use it very often, I usually like to leave a little grain or add some anyway and I do not really like the look of footage that has been heavily denoised. I have never had any issues with things taking a long time to render either. If you denoise a 4k file and then downscale it to 1080p, whatever noise may be left will be much more fine. Also, downscaling 4k to 1080p without denoising generally results in a much nicer looking grain than if you just shot in 1080p. I would definitely recommend not denoising an image so much as for it to have absolutely no grain left. a little texture is a good thing I have also found that I prefer how neat video's sharpening function looks over using a standard one in vegas or premiere. Doesn't look as plastic like the others
  13. olympus OM 35-70 f3.6 is supposed to be good. the front element does not rotate either. I haven't gotten around to buying one, so haven't actually tried it though You can get one is nice condition for less than $100
  14. I use PNY Elite cards and never had an issue in any of the recording modes except 1080p 200mbps All-i, but it only has happened twice and I rarely record in that resolution. half the price of the sandisk but very similar performance in my opinion Sequential Read = 83.4 MByte/sec Random Read = 4.1 MByte/sec Sequential Write= 62.7 MByte/sec Random Write= 864.0 kByte/sec http://www.amazon.com/PNY-Elite-Performance-Speed-Class/dp/B00HIKBW1G
  15. you could get a C/y mount zeiss 35mm f2.8 and adapt to ef adapted FD lenses to EF requires an adapter with glass in it and I wouldn't recommend doing that, I dont think there are any high quality ones and if there are, probably not worth the money. Adapt FD to MFT is much easier though. You could get FD to MFT chinese RJ speedbooster, Ive been pretty happy with mine for the price. with a speedbooster on 35mm lens on my gh4, it vignettes a good bit. at 40mm the vignette is gone though. There is a 40mm f2.8 Zeiss in c/y mount that is a pancake lens and pretty affordable. Never used it though. Might be worth looking in to though
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